Panga 20 Build

[fallguy1000]

I'm wondering if I should put a couple of fairing coats on the gunnels before I tape in the frames. Should make it easier to fair the frames in.

If you think it easier; do it. Fairing is hard enough. But how are you gonna fair frames with tapes? Isn't that gonna get done twice then?

[FluidDynamic]

If I'm using a longboard, I think it would be easier to fair to a certain point then put the frames in. The tape on the frames will be 6 oz woven and I'll use peel ply on those. After that, there would be little left to fair.

[GuyP]

Looking really good. Especially the exterior hull photo. You brought your splash rails to about the same place foreword as I did.

[sharkbait2576]

Couple of questions. I'm getting ready to put on rub rails and spray rails.

1. Did you buy pieces long enough you didn't have to splice? I'm going for the same type look you are with natural wood rub rails and on top of gunnels.
2. When you put the rub rails on, did you epoxy them to the side and clamp? What about the spray rails?
3. After you filets the edges all the way down, did you glass over the whole rub rail and spray rail? If so, how do you keep the wood color with a layer of fiberglass over it.

Thanks for putting up with my ignorance. I've got about a thousand ways in my head it could be done and just looking for the best.

Jerry

[FluidDynamic]

1. You need to splice them or buy long enough pieces. I messed up and didn't do either of those. I put a 12' piece on and then the rest. It slight bowed the side panel out where the two pieces met. Its barely noticeable, but would have done it differently if I had to do it again. I'm actually not doing bright work. I asked the same question in my thread some where and there were a few answers. Search for varnish in my thread and you will find some info. Mine will be painted. Before painting, I will wrap fiberglass over the coaming and over the top of the deck then down the rub rail.
2/3 Yes, I epoxied them with clamps. I would use system three gel magic for that or thicken the epoxy slightly. You want no voids so use alot. The spray rails were screwed down with thickened epoxy behind them. Once cured, you can remove the screws and filet the joints. From there, I shaped them the way I wanted them by using a longboard. That way it was a smooth curve over the entire spray rail. After getting the shape I wanted, I then glassed over them with 12 ounce biaxial tape. Same with the skeg. After deciding against brightwork, I never researched any further on how to keep it bright. I have built a paddleboard that I used brightwork. On that, I used a lightweight cloth, with a Special clear epoxy. I think they sale the clear on boatbuilder. The problem you will have is hiding the filets or transitions between the deck and the rail. It can definitely be done, but I never got that far to see the best way to do it. Mine will be painted the same color as my sides, but the groove you see on my rail will be covered with a rope rub rail. Main reason for painting, is because of the maintenance for brightwork. You have to have something to protect it from UV rays. I varnished over my paddleboard. Clear epoxy will yellow over time without something protecti g it from UV rays.

[cape man]

The EMC Clear Quantum 99 paint is awesome for covering bright work.

[pee wee]

1. You need to splice them or buy long enough pieces.I put a 12' piece on and then the rest. It slight bowed the side panel out where the two pieces met. Its barely noticeable, but would have done it differently if I had to do it again.

You won't find lumber over 20 feet at many lumberyards, so a splice will probably be in your future. To help avoid the kink at the splice joint, clamp a temporary piece on the inside spanning several feet in each direction when you glue the rub rail. Use a long scarf joint if you can make one, and try to match the color of the wood- maybe cut them from the same piece and flip one end for end. If you set up supports and trial fit things, you may want to start at the joint and work fore and aft as you glue and clamp, do a dry run before you commit. Hope you have lots of clamps! Check that your wood will make the bend, since you're finishing bright you could: use a wood that bends easily, steam a piece of wood to the bend and let it dry before applying epoxy, or laminate the whole rub rail out of thin layers (and stagger the seams).

As you are finding out, finishing au naturel takes planning, extra work and more time.

[sharkbait2576]

1. You need to splice them or buy long enough pieces.I put a 12' piece on and then the rest. It slight bowed the side panel out where the two pieces met. Its barely noticeable, but would have done it differently if I had to do it again.

You won't find lumber over 20 feet at many lumberyards, so a splice will probably be in your future. To help avoid the kink at the splice joint, clamp a temporary piece on the inside spanning several feet in each direction when you glue the rub rail. Use a long scarf joint if you can make one, and try to match the color of the wood- maybe cut them from the same piece and flip one end for end. If you set up supports and trial fit things, you may want to start at the joint and work fore and aft as you glue and clamp, do a dry run before you commit. Hope you have lots of clamps! Check that your wood will make the bend, since you're finishing bright you could: use a wood that bends easily, steam a piece of wood to the bend and let it dry before applying epoxy, or laminate the whole rub rail out of thin layers (and stagger the seams).

As you are finding out, finishing au naturel takes planning, extra work and more time.

Thanks!

[sharkbait2576]

1. You need to splice them or buy long enough pieces. I messed up and didn't do either of those. I put a 12' piece on and then the rest. It slight bowed the side panel out where the two pieces met. Its barely noticeable, but would have done it differently if I had to do it again. I'm actually not doing bright work. I asked the same question in my thread some where and there were a few answers. Search for varnish in my thread and you will find some info. Mine will be painted. Before painting, I will wrap fiberglass over the coaming and over the top of the deck then down the rub rail.
2/3 Yes, I epoxied them with clamps. I would use system three gel magic for that or thicken the epoxy slightly. You want no voids so use alot. The spray rails were screwed down with thickened epoxy behind them. Once cured, you can remove the screws and filet the joints. From there, I shaped them the way I wanted them by using a longboard. That way it was a smooth curve over the entire spray rail. After getting the shape I wanted, I then glassed over them with 12 ounce biaxial tape. Same with the skeg. After deciding against brightwork, I never researched any further on how to keep it bright. I have built a paddleboard that I used brightwork. On that, I used a lightweight cloth, with a Special clear epoxy. I think they sale the clear on boatbuilder. The problem you will have is hiding the filets or transitions between the deck and the rail. It can definitely be done, but I never got that far to see the best way to do it. Mine will be painted the same color as my sides, but the groove you see on my rail will be covered with a rope rub rail. Main reason for painting, is because of the maintenance for brightwork. You have to have something to protect it from UV rays. I varnished over my paddleboard. Clear epoxy will yellow over time without something protecti g it from UV rays.

Awesome. I appreciate it. I was on the fence about the brightwork. Getting votes from my wife and daughter...both artists, one liked the wood, the other thought it looked better painted. I'll go the easy route on this build. Makes the wood cheaper for the rails too!

[FluidDynamic]

Not trying to discourage you from doing bright work, just giving you the reasons why I chose against it.