Looking at that it sure seems like you picked the right time to replace it. Pretty new one right there.
Tom
ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
After seeing all the problems folks have with electric windlasses makes me even more sure if possible I want hydraulic.
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Electrics are easier to repair/replace in environmental sensitive areas. I recently witnessed a hydro spraying “not water” into the salt. I think the commercial units would fair better (never seen a shrimper spray not water into the salt) but I would think they would be too heavy for most private yachts.
That said, windlass, bow thrusters, and rudders would seems to be good candidates for the small hydro motors if the power pumps can run efficiently.
That said, windlass, bow thrusters, and rudders would seems to be good candidates for the small hydro motors if the power pumps can run efficiently.
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
I freely admit my thinking on all things boating is coloured by my commercial fishing past. Those boats all had inboard motors with engine driven hydraulics. The boats were bigger and hydraulics were used for lots of functions so it made more sense. It sure was nice having lots of power and things that lasted a long time, in harsh use, with not much care.
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Thanks Tom, Fuzz, Jaysen and Fuzz again.
In hindsight I should have replaced the anchor windlass's electric motor a couple of year ago. And I agree that on mid-sized recreational sailboats like Great Sandy, an engine-driven hydraulic pump driving a suite of hydraulic applications is rare.
Great Sandy's 12 year old 45lb Manson Supreme anchor started life generously galvanised. After 8 years of almost nightly use for 4-5 months a year, often in highly abrasive seabeds, the galvanising had progressively failed on the anchor's tip, rollbar, and most edges. So I got the anchor sandblasted then cold gal sprayed. That held up for another few years, but has now failed in the same areas that the original galvanising failed. The same wear areas are now polished bare after abrasive anchoring, then quickly rust when stowed on the bow roller.
So this today I cleaned up the anchor with wet sandpaper, then delivered it to a quality regalvanising shop to restore it to as-new galvanised condition.
Careful examination of the pics below show the areas where the cold gal spray (and before it the original galvanising) has been worn away by multiple anchoring events.
In hindsight I should have replaced the anchor windlass's electric motor a couple of year ago. And I agree that on mid-sized recreational sailboats like Great Sandy, an engine-driven hydraulic pump driving a suite of hydraulic applications is rare.
Great Sandy's 12 year old 45lb Manson Supreme anchor started life generously galvanised. After 8 years of almost nightly use for 4-5 months a year, often in highly abrasive seabeds, the galvanising had progressively failed on the anchor's tip, rollbar, and most edges. So I got the anchor sandblasted then cold gal sprayed. That held up for another few years, but has now failed in the same areas that the original galvanising failed. The same wear areas are now polished bare after abrasive anchoring, then quickly rust when stowed on the bow roller.
So this today I cleaned up the anchor with wet sandpaper, then delivered it to a quality regalvanising shop to restore it to as-new galvanised condition.
Careful examination of the pics below show the areas where the cold gal spray (and before it the original galvanising) has been worn away by multiple anchoring events.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Personally I like the look of that anchor as is. Shows it has been used and is not just bow bling for a dock queen
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
It ain’t chrome. All the dock queens have chromed anchors. If you don’t believe me I’ll get picture evidence.
GB, your not helping me avoid the “fix don’t buy” mind set. That anchor will be good s new when you’re done with it.
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
GB nice that you have a place that can regalvanize the anchor saves a lot of money. Looks great! Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Thanks Fuzz, Jaysen, and Tom.
My basic philosophy is that by and large we build new boats with new stuff (e.g. Skinnydip), however we maintain our boats (e.g. Great Sandy) by routine maintenance and refurbishing all components, and only replacing then as a last resort. For example, as per previous post, I’m replacing Great Sandy's windlass electric motor, because it was stuffed beyond redemption (due to slack previous maintenance by moi ).
However, the windlass's gearbox can be given years of extra life by refurbishing it. When I dismantled it earlier this week, the gearbox presented as an anonymous a blob of corrosion. Today I scrapped and sanded it back to its bare metal self, and over the next few days it can be progressively protected with layers of paint prior to re-installation for another long period of service.
The point I'm trying to make is that by and large, we build new boats with new components. However as we maintain built boats over decades, more often than not, we choose to maintain and refurbish existing components rather than replacing them unless necessary. Sure it takes a little time, but it's deeply rewarding.
Pics below of Great Sandy's formerly heavily corroded windlass gearbox prepared today for repainting for a further ten plus years of service.
My basic philosophy is that by and large we build new boats with new stuff (e.g. Skinnydip), however we maintain our boats (e.g. Great Sandy) by routine maintenance and refurbishing all components, and only replacing then as a last resort. For example, as per previous post, I’m replacing Great Sandy's windlass electric motor, because it was stuffed beyond redemption (due to slack previous maintenance by moi ).
However, the windlass's gearbox can be given years of extra life by refurbishing it. When I dismantled it earlier this week, the gearbox presented as an anonymous a blob of corrosion. Today I scrapped and sanded it back to its bare metal self, and over the next few days it can be progressively protected with layers of paint prior to re-installation for another long period of service.
The point I'm trying to make is that by and large, we build new boats with new components. However as we maintain built boats over decades, more often than not, we choose to maintain and refurbish existing components rather than replacing them unless necessary. Sure it takes a little time, but it's deeply rewarding.
Pics below of Great Sandy's formerly heavily corroded windlass gearbox prepared today for repainting for a further ten plus years of service.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Nice work GB!!!! Jeff
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