GV10 Stop and Start Project

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MikeyGnz
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by MikeyGnz »

Next step well underway. I have built oars and they will get the final coat of varnish tonight. Outboard work unsuccessful so there is no automatic reverse lock but I have worked out how to rig a manual one. Reverse is low priority on such a small boat anyway. Long weekend starting tomorrow so I'm aiming to splash Sunday and Monday.



MikeyGnz
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by MikeyGnz »

Ok, if you haven't realized it yet I'm cheap. Oars were going to cost $149.95 a pair and I figured I could make them cheaper. My hands were almost permanently dirty so no photos of making the oars just an after the fact explanation now.
  • First off I bought 4m of 44x44 pine (dressed 2 by 2) and cut it in half.
  • Using a router bit I cut a 10mm deep, 10mm wide track up opposite sides for 350mm from one end.
  • Next I used a 45 degree router bit to take the square section down to an octogon
  • Using a plane and sander I took the corners off the octagon to get a roughly round cross section.
  • Using a flap disc in the angle grinder I made smaller diameter handles at the opposite end to the routered tracks.
  • I cut blades out of scrap plywood. The blades have a 350mm long slot up the middle. Slot width is the distance across the base of the routered tracks.
  • From more scrap plywood I cut two circles the outside diameter of the rowlocks. I then cut another circle the diameter of the oar out of the middle so I had two donuts.
  • Using epoxy and silica glue powder powder the blades were glued on handles with the slot fitting up the tracks.
  • Remembering to put the rowlocks on first, I glued the donuts onto the handles so there would be a hands with between the handle ends of the two oars while rowing.
  • On the blade side of the donut I put a 300mm length of biax cloth to prevent the rowlocks wearing through the wood.
  • After sanding down all the rough edges I coated the entire oar with neat epoxy to seal the wood.
  • Lastly I laid down 3 coats of varnish to protect the epoxy from UV.
All up cost about $40 for the wood and $6 for 1m biax cloth. The rest all was scrap or leftovers from other projects.

Blade glued in slot in shaft.
Image

Handle other end.
Image

Collar and biax cloth in the middle.
Image

Overall finished product.
Image

MikeyGnz
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Location: Christchurch, NZ

Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by MikeyGnz »

I still have a little bit of finishing off to do as far as fixing the motor cowling, sorting out anchor, ropes, etc. but I got impatient so took her out for a blat yesterday. I was on my own so no action photos or video.

It floats - good first sign.
Image

Image

Looking forward you can't tell I am on the plane at full throttle.
Image

Then looking aft you see the other side of the story.
Image

Overall I'm happy. It is a bit slow up on to the plane but I think having the motor professionally tuned will fix that.

Splash thread HERE. It is exactly the same as this post so no real need to check it.

VT_Jeff
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by VT_Jeff »

MikeyGnz wrote: Mon Apr 26, 2021 12:44 am Ok, if you haven't realized it yet I'm cheap. Oars were going to cost $149.95 a pair and I figured I could make them cheaper. My hands were almost permanently dirty so no photos of making the oars just an after the fact explanation now.
  • First off I bought 4m of 44x44 pine (dressed 2 by 2) and cut it in half.
  • Using a router bit I cut a 10mm deep, 10mm wide track up opposite sides for 350mm from one end.
  • Next I used a 45 degree router bit to take the square section down to an octogon
  • Using a plane and sander I took the corners off the octagon to get a roughly round cross section.
  • Using a flap disc in the angle grinder I made smaller diameter handles at the opposite end to the routered tracks.
  • I cut blades out of scrap plywood. The blades have a 350mm long slot up the middle. Slot width is the distance across the base of the routered tracks.
  • From more scrap plywood I cut two circles the outside diameter of the rowlocks. I then cut another circle the diameter of the oar out of the middle so I had two donuts.
  • Using epoxy and silica glue powder powder the blades were glued on handles with the slot fitting up the tracks.
  • Remembering to put the rowlocks on first, I glued the donuts onto the handles so there would be a hands with between the handle ends of the two oars while rowing.
  • On the blade side of the donut I put a 300mm length of biax cloth to prevent the rowlocks wearing through the wood.
  • After sanding down all the rough edges I coated the entire oar with neat epoxy to seal the wood.
  • Lastly I laid down 3 coats of varnish to protect the epoxy from UV.
All up cost about $40 for the wood and $6 for 1m biax cloth. The rest all was scrap or leftovers from other projects.
Great work, I love hearing "I was too cheap to buy it so I made my own" stories that actually ended up saving money!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

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Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by Evan_Gatehouse »

Did you ever weight the finished boat?

What size of outboard do you have?
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24

MikeyGnz
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Location: Christchurch, NZ

Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by MikeyGnz »

Evan_Gatehouse wrote: Thu Apr 29, 2021 2:01 pm Did you ever weight the finished boat?

What size of outboard do you have?
Hi Evan

I haven't managed to weigh the boat. Not sure how to do it without a weighbridge and they want $10 a pop over here. With one of us at each end we can lift easily. On my own I can left the whole trailer with boat and motor and walk it sideways rotating on towball (trailer reversing issues, don't ask).

My motor is a 1978 Mercury 110 9.8hp 2 stroke. Apart from replacing the original stop button with a modern one that takes a lanyard kill switch, water pump replacement and the carb rebuild it is completely original.

MikeyGnz
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Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2016 3:49 pm
Location: Christchurch, NZ

Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project

Post by MikeyGnz »

Finally found tie to give the motor a tune up in the weekend.

Idle mixture was miles off but now running well after adjustment. Throttle stop was limiting it to 3400rpm at wide open throttle so no wonder I was having issues getting on the plane previously, now set to the proper 5000RPM which should give me that little bit extra top end.

I did it in a nearby river with the boat on the trailer so didn't get to see how the boat performed, probably a good thing as the starter rope snapped on me after I did all the adjustments needing the motor in-gear but before I set the max revs in neutral, etc. Better for that to happen at the ramp than out somewhere. Took it home, replaced the rope and made the final adjustments with the motor in a bucket of water.

All the foam inside the motor cowl is perished from age and petrol exposure. I will clean that up, re-glue the rubber seats in the right place and maybe replace the foam then I am finished ready for the upcoming summer.

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