MAB's FS14LS

[markabernardi]

Hey All,

Almost ready to begin my fs14ls build, cant wait to dive in!
https://www.community.boatbuildercentra ... fullsize=1

mb

[Fuzz]

Sounds good Post lots of pictures, we like our boat porn

[VT_Jeff]

Nice! The FS14LS community is growing!

[Jeff]

MB, Welcome to our Builders Forum!! We look forward to watching your build!! Jeff

[markabernardi]

Fuzz - happy to oblige. Glued the long panels together, there was more play than I was anticipating so I didnt have to use a mallet to get the puzzle joints to mate up.
1st 2 layers of transom are together, as are the stringers with butt blocks. Glad I got the slow cure epoxy!

Its so dry here that a lot of my plywood has developed some curves so hopefully i can use that to my advantage when i place the long panels on the frames.

On the transom the plans say the following: 'Note that we show one layer for the transom and one layer for a clamping board. You can make the clamping board the same size as the transom, in other words, have a transom made from 2 layers or 2 layers of 9mm plus the clamping board. This is required if you install a 25 HP.'

And then further below: 'Note that the plans show the stringers dimensions to fit under the clamping board. If you build the whole transom from 2 layers, you must take that in account and cut a slice off the rear of the stringers: 10 mm or 3/8”. We show that cutting line.

The CNC kit came with (3) full transom pieces which threw me off - my plan is to have (2) layers for my transom which will be hanging a 20 hp. Which leaves me a spare transom layer from my CNC kit. Is the intent for that 3rd layer to be trimmed to fit for a clamping board? Do I need a clamping board for a 20hp if I already have (2) layers, or is that overkill? Either way it looks like I have to trim the 3/8" off the end of the stringers.

[VT_Jeff]

Fuzz - happy to oblige. Glued the long panels together, there was more play than I was anticipating so I didnt have to use a mallet to get the puzzle joints to mate up.
1st 2 layers of transom are together, as are the stringers with butt blocks. Glad I got the slow cure epoxy!

Its so dry here that a lot of my plywood has developed some curves so hopefully i can use that to my advantage when i place the long panels on the frames.

On the transom the plans say the following: 'Note that we show one layer for the transom and one layer for a clamping board. You can make the clamping board the same size as the transom, in other words, have a transom made from 2 layers or 2 layers of 9mm plus the clamping board. This is required if you install a 25 HP.'

And then further below: 'Note that the plans show the stringers dimensions to fit under the clamping board. If you build the whole transom from 2 layers, you must take that in account and cut a slice off the rear of the stringers: 10 mm or 3/8”. We show that cutting line.

The CNC kit came with (3) full transom pieces which threw me off - my plan is to have (2) layers for my transom which will be hanging a 20 hp. Which leaves me a spare transom layer from my CNC kit. Is the intent for that 3rd layer to be trimmed to fit for a clamping board? Do I need a clamping board for a 20hp if I already have (2) layers, or is that overkill? Either way it looks like I have to trim the 3/8" off the end of the stringers.

I think the transom is a good place for overkill. If it were me, I'd use the 3rd piece at least for a clamping board and possibly full-sized. Mine uses 2 full-sized pieces plus a clamping board for a 20hp 4-stroke with elec start and elec tilt,and it still flexed some and cause a crack between the transom and rear deck. I notched my stringers into the inner layer to avoid the need to modify the stringers. Not sure if your kit stringers were cut for 1, 2 or 3 layers.

[Fuzz]

X2 on what VT Jeff said.

[markabernardi]

Long hiatus, had to go on a fishing/crabbing binge in ilwaco, colorado, and galveston. made some progress tho!

[markabernardi]

I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?

[markabernardi]

couldnt quite discern from the plans if the puzzle joints on the hull side panels require fiberglass on the outside? I know on the bottom panels, puzzle joints get completely glassed over on the exterior. That same bottom section of fiberglass overlaps the chine by 6" on the side panels. because it only overlaps it by 6", do i need to grind down the outside of the puzzle joint by 1/16" inch, and glass the exterior as indicated below to ensure strength?