MAB's FS14LS

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VT_Jeff
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff »

markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.


There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

markabernardi
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by markabernardi »

looks like Jacques replied to a similar inquiry in the forums:
' No need for butt blocks. The kits use a puzzle joint, just as strong as a butt block.
The puzzle joints (serration) are covered by fiberglass at the chine and rubrail. They are also covered by the seat top tape and most builders cover the bottom with fiberglass. Except for a couple inches, the whole seam is covered but to be safe, cover the puzzle joint with a layer of tape before assembly. . '

I will definitely be taping the inside puzzle joint on the side panels the full length of the joint.

markabernardi
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by markabernardi »

VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:38 pm
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.
good to know shifting down works. with that 3rd layer, had to take off 3/4" length from the stringers

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VT_Jeff
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff »

markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:52 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:38 pm
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.
good to know shifting down works. with that 3rd layer, had to take off 3/4" length from the stringers
Perfect. So shifting down worked for me but I only added a layer plus a clamp, I'm not sure how 2 full layers may change the geometry, but filling the gap is definitely acceptable regardless.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

jonnymac
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by jonnymac »

markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
I’d just make sure the boat shape isn’t changing, gaps can be filled no problem, but if the hull is funny shaped now you don’t want to fill that gap. if adding the extra plywood to transom was on the inside of the transom, you may need to trim that thickness off the stringer length.

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VT_Jeff
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff »

Since you trimmed the stringers, the extra layers were essentially added to the inside. So your outer layer is in the originally designed position, so shifting it down should be fine. There is some weirdness in how the deck corners meet the transom in the design, I dont think the extra layer will complicate that much.

And I dont think you're actually shifting it down, I think it's designed to have the bottom panels meet the highest edge of the transom and have a gap there. It's probably common to many of the designs. I recall a post about it, I'll try to dig it up.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

markabernardi
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by markabernardi »

ended up trimming the angle, had to remove transom and re-align, but i love that i won't have a large, hard-to-get-to gap to fill.
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VT_Jeff
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Post by VT_Jeff »

Nicely done, looks like a good fit.

Now is the time to ensure you don't have any unwanted hook near the stern, much easier to fix now then it is after you've glassed it.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

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