new build GT Cruiser 23

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fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

Gotta be honest, your picture is hard to deciper which is which..but I think the heavy stuff is transom.

The best way to do the transom is to drop it into finished hull. Glue it inside. Leave enough gap for thickened epoxy. After bonded, radius all edges. I use a Festool. After glasswork is done, the bottom radius is remade sharp.

Transoms are typically set on 12, up to 14 degree angles from the waterline, but you may already have that in the hullsides.


My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

My transom was dropped into a measured hull for minimal grinding. I probably used some screws to hold it or else hot glue.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Fuzz
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by Fuzz »

Pretty sure the transom goes inside of the side and bottom panels. Might want to check the plans and see if you can tell.
If dropping it inside bed it in some epoxy glue. With all the glass overlaps it will be plenty strong no matter what.

Reid
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by Reid »

Ideally the outside face of the transom should sit flush with the edges of the hull panels. However, marine plywood has a mind of its own sometimes and you simply cannot get it to sit exactly where you want it. The most important aspect of the build, at this point, is that your panels are lining up with no concave or convex surfaces where there shouldn't be. The panels should be symmetrical. There should be a small gap between all panels to allow room for the fillet (this includes a gap around the transom seams). Ensure that the transom angle is set correctly and that the stringers are lined up correctly with the transom and motor well bulkhead. If all the above is correct and your hull panels do not quite reach the outer face of the transom that is ok. You will simply bridge the gaps with fillet, shape a radius with your sander around the transom seams and proceed to fiberglass tape the seams. Once everything is taped and glassed you will never know the panels were a bit shy.

Good luck and build on!
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
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TomW1
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by TomW1 »

As Reid said the side should line up with the back of the transom. You are going to need a helper one to hold it in place and one to place some scresws in the side to hold it till it dries. Do one side at a time.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

jonnymac
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by jonnymac »

TomW1 wrote: Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:00 pm As Reid said the side should line up with the back of the transom. You are going to need a helper one to hold it in place and one to place some scresws in the side to hold it till it dries. Do one side at a time.

Tom
that’s not what Reid said exactly, ideally it would but its the least important part. he said make sure everything else is correct and if the side is shy it will be fixed in the glassing process.

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

Happy Thanksgiving
The transom is in, glued and looks good.
Thanks a bunch for all the great insight. Now I’m onto the bow transom.

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

Here is a picture of the transom.
Attachments
6EEC6CAE-2AFB-4787-946B-6E4DFEF5398C.jpeg

TomW1
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by TomW1 »

Looks great. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Fuzz
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by Fuzz »

Almost done. Just needs a little rounding over and some glass :D

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