Dan
Getting very hot now, especially for this time of year it has been well over 30% the past week. Looks like it may cool for a week or so, I will try and get some long hours in glassing the cockpit floor and fitting the deck.
June will see a lack of build as the middle son is getting married in the UK. So we are over there for three weeks helping with the arrangements.
Would like to think I will have time to fit the engine in July, for me this will be a challenge 3000kg’s is not an easy thing to throw around, bless them the Greek guys from my local fabrication works are going to make me a gantry and give me a hand on the hoisting day.
Will get back to boat thinking next week and no doubt have questions !!!!
Cheers
Les
LB26
Re: LB26
Evening Guys
A couple of quick questions..... Jacques / Guys
I have faired and fixed the deck to the hull. Do I need to sand the hull back to glass or can I tape to the Gurit fairing compound.
I have now glued the Sole / Floor boards together and fitted the floor ready to remove and glass, the spec says 1 layer of glass top and bottom. On the outside edge the span from bulk head to bulk head is quite large, the engine section is over 1.4m apart, aft the outside corners / edges are unsupported, see really bad sketch..... I know these are taped to the side panels but with people jumping from deck there will quite a large force on the ( from what I can see tape only strength. )
Any thoughts guys ?
Cheers
Les
A couple of quick questions..... Jacques / Guys
I have faired and fixed the deck to the hull. Do I need to sand the hull back to glass or can I tape to the Gurit fairing compound.
I have now glued the Sole / Floor boards together and fitted the floor ready to remove and glass, the spec says 1 layer of glass top and bottom. On the outside edge the span from bulk head to bulk head is quite large, the engine section is over 1.4m apart, aft the outside corners / edges are unsupported, see really bad sketch..... I know these are taped to the side panels but with people jumping from deck there will quite a large force on the ( from what I can see tape only strength. )
Any thoughts guys ?
Cheers
Les
Re: LB26
I prefer to install the framing on the rough glass and fair later. Less delamination risks.
For the supports in your picture, build some braces spaced every 3' or 90 cm max. spacing. The exact shape is irrelevant. Some people like to shape them as fishing rod holders, others us them to make storage bins, you decide.
For the supports in your picture, build some braces spaced every 3' or 90 cm max. spacing. The exact shape is irrelevant. Some people like to shape them as fishing rod holders, others us them to make storage bins, you decide.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: LB26
Les,
I only pre-fair when I feel the substrate is too poor for full adhesion of glass. So, sometimes.. not the answer you like, but if you are gonna have air, then pre-fair.
As for the spans. Those spans are only going to work with 1 inch cores and 40 oz glass bottom and 25 oz top or so. I made I beams for my boat. Anytime my spans were over about 26".
The way I made them....
Take three pieces of laminated core 1.5" by 12mm thick. Or so. Glue them together with epoxy putty and a screw so one piece makes the middle of the I and the other makes the top and bottom. Then fillet and tape with like a 2-2.5" glass tape of say db1700. Then same other side. I wasn't in a rush, so made them over two days to avoid drippy mess. Then set them on cleats that are well epoxied to the bulkheads or hull and tape them on with a small fillet and tape or jist the tape. Ultralight and super strong. I had scraps, though.
No laminated junk? You can use a piece of 3/4" wood and just glass each side woth 600/225 or 600g tape. It can be whatever width, but hardwood and no knots. The glass will keep it from cracking under any wild dynamic loading,
When you glue the sole on; these are good and wide and really stiffen things up.
I only pre-fair when I feel the substrate is too poor for full adhesion of glass. So, sometimes.. not the answer you like, but if you are gonna have air, then pre-fair.
As for the spans. Those spans are only going to work with 1 inch cores and 40 oz glass bottom and 25 oz top or so. I made I beams for my boat. Anytime my spans were over about 26".
The way I made them....
Take three pieces of laminated core 1.5" by 12mm thick. Or so. Glue them together with epoxy putty and a screw so one piece makes the middle of the I and the other makes the top and bottom. Then fillet and tape with like a 2-2.5" glass tape of say db1700. Then same other side. I wasn't in a rush, so made them over two days to avoid drippy mess. Then set them on cleats that are well epoxied to the bulkheads or hull and tape them on with a small fillet and tape or jist the tape. Ultralight and super strong. I had scraps, though.
No laminated junk? You can use a piece of 3/4" wood and just glass each side woth 600/225 or 600g tape. It can be whatever width, but hardwood and no knots. The glass will keep it from cracking under any wild dynamic loading,
When you glue the sole on; these are good and wide and really stiffen things up.
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Re: LB26
Spans of a meter are simply too great and sag. He is cleating..
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Tue Jun 07, 2022 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: LB26
It depends. Fort example, a 8" wide (20 cm) side deck along the cockpit, with braces spaced 1 meter, will flex exceedingly but the same side deck with and integral coaming will be very stiff and you could walk on it.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: LB26
That's what makes me question it. The photo on the last page shows one cleat on the rear cabin bulkhead, no others. Maybe he is cleating, I just don't see the evidence.les2021 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 1:20 pm On the outside edge the span from bulk head to bulk head is quite large, the engine section is over 1.4m apart, aft the outside corners / edges are unsupported, I know these are taped to the side panels but with people jumping from deck there will quite a large force on the ( from what I can see tape only strength. )
Hank
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Re: LB26
Okay, I see your point Hank.
Here is a picture of my core i beams. A higher vertical section would be better, but I had no space. This one is not taped. Looks like I hotglued it together not screws or putty, so the fillet and tape does all the work.
Here is a picture of my core i beams. A higher vertical section would be better, but I had no space. This one is not taped. Looks like I hotglued it together not screws or putty, so the fillet and tape does all the work.
Re: LB26
Morning Guys
Thanks Dan / Jacques ? Pee Wee
Nice I beam Dan ( bet they are a night mare to tape ! )
I have attached a sketch with what I think you are suggesting, let me know if I have got it right and how many I need.
I have also attached some photos of the deck - hull joint, this relates to my earlier question re taping and fairing back to glass or just fairing compound. Let me know your thoughts....
Cheers
Les
Thanks Dan / Jacques ? Pee Wee
Nice I beam Dan ( bet they are a night mare to tape ! )
I have attached a sketch with what I think you are suggesting, let me know if I have got it right and how many I need.
I have also attached some photos of the deck - hull joint, this relates to my earlier question re taping and fairing back to glass or just fairing compound. Let me know your thoughts....
Cheers
Les
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