My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Boats up to 15' for oars, power or sail. Please include the boat type in your question.
TomW1
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by TomW1 »

Midwestfields wrote: Wed Aug 03, 2022 5:48 pm Thanks for the help. Does anyone know if I should do duct tape or stiches when I assemble? I've heard mixed reviews on duct tape
Try not to get to get sweat on the fresh epoxy as it will dilute and weaken it. Tom


Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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OrangeQuest
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by OrangeQuest »

Gluing the butt blocks on. Does it effect the epoxy if my sweat drips on it when I'm working ugh it's so hot and humid in my area.
There is a fan in the background, it will help keep some of the sweat from forming. I like to do epoxy work and most sanding, this time of the year in the early hours of the day while the temps are still in the two digits. Then wear just swim trunks and every so often stand under the outdoor shower, then in front of my 32" drum fan.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

Dougster
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Dougster »

Duct tape won't hold the panels through the bends---gotta stitch. Most folks use zip ties. Duct tape or for me packing tape is used after it's finished being stiched up and ready for tagging panels together with thickened epoxy in between the zip ties. The tape is put on the back of the panel seams so epoxy doesn't ooze through and create fairing headaches.

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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by OneWayTraffic »

With small boats it's common to glue the inside first.

Prime the wood with neat epoxy on a brush, just enough to get into the edge grain. Then thickened epoxy. This should be thickened enough to be somewhere around peanut butter consistency. The neat epoxy priming will grab onto it fine. If you did not prime the wood it will be a weaker bond: not great.

Then just enough epoxy putty between the stitches to tack it together. Do not try and get a full size fillet in, just enough to hold the panels together. I use the rounded edge of an iceblock stick. Keep well clear of the stitches.

Give it 24 hours to set up (24 hours is great as the epoxy will bond to itself well even if you don't sand thoroughly) then remove stitches roughen up the epoxy with a bit of 80grit sandpaper. Go over the whole length with a fresh fillet. Give this one a little time to stiffen up, then paint neat epoxy over and add glass. The neat epoxy should soak up through the glass over a few minutes. Brush a little more on dry spots and let set. You can fill the weave with some fairing mix before it fully sets, but after a few hours without preparation.

If you do the inside first drip throughs are easily ground off with a flap disk.

My D5 build has a great example of how not to do it, but I got it in the end.

Midwestfields
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Midwestfields »

Thanks for the help I appreciate it very much. Doug I read your build of lemonaid if that's what u ended up naming her. It really turned out great 👍. Let me ask u how close were your stiches to edge of wood and apart? and what size holes did you drill for them. I tried some small zip ties I had but they kept breaking. So I used some Larger black zip ties I got from harbor freight that will work.

Doug the spacer spreader that is called for middle did you angle it to match the side panels it seems to want to pull out the screw I used when the panel's bend towards the bottom

Oneway traffic thanks for the info. Question do I let the neat prime epoxy dry before I use the thickened epoxy?

Guys how much space should be left between panels or should they be cinched together? Or is it that critical on a small cheap Canoe?

And just a side note I'm buying an ac unit for the garage 😀
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Dougster
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Dougster »

Don't remember how I handled the spacer, but am sure i didn't use screws. Just clamped in somehow so it couldn't pop up. Zip ties were every 6" - 8" or so untill the bow then every one or two inches to pull it up. Takes some convincing to get close.

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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Apply the putty at any stage after the prime coat but before full cure if possible. Think of epoxy sinking into the wood then chemically bonding with the putty. So it all becomes one entangled molecule.

Midwestfields
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Midwestfields »

Thanks guys , I didn't get a chance to work on the boat this weekend had a concert to go to. Dougster did I screw up by using a screw at the top of the sheer for that spacer?

Ill try to get a chance this week to finish up stiching it together.

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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Dougster »

No screw up, you can always take it out. The only thing that matters is getting the panels to lay fair. Once they look good you can tack them in with epoxy and pull the screw(s). If they won't lay fair pull the screws and fiddle.

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Midwestfields
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Re: My cheap Canoe Build 1st timer

Post by Midwestfields »

Question does the bottom need to be under the sides or even with them at the Chine? If you understand what I'm trying to convey. _/

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