stringer rules...how many and where???

[Evan_Gatehouse]

It is more important to round over the top of the stringer for glass to cover them.

No need on the bottom.

[Saltfix]

so, I have created a problem..
My stringers are in but I placed them next to the chine..the inside..no issues,,,BUT the other side is right at the chine and I am trying to figure a way to tab in that side ..as you can see..its in the ditch of the chine ..
I am thinking of tabbing it in with just the 1 1/2 inch of tab in the chine and then a second tab basically skipping over the chine to connect to the flat surface but will have a gap between the two tabs..I really dont want to have to FILL IN the chine..
any suggestions other than what I am thinking?

[Fuzz]

I guess I am missing it but I do not see any stringers up next to the chines. If I were going to put in more stringers they would go half way between whats there now and the chines.

[Saltfix]

bottom pic..shows the CHINE..its sitting in. click on the pic to get a better look

[OneWayTraffic]

Usually in this thread we use chine to mean the transition between sides and top. Technically it just means a change in cross section I think. Anyway you do have a stringer sitting too close to a spray chine or strake on the hull.

Annoying, but I can see several ways to fix.

1. You can remove and more carefully place the stringer in the flat between spray chines.

2. You can fill the chine gap with a carefully cut piece of wood, and a lot of epoxy putty, smooth with a grinder and glass over it, ensuring that you have at least 2" overlap onto the hull the other side of the depression.

3. You can simply glass over the whole thing, the glass will stay put if you have some epoxy putty under, especially at all curves and transitions. Again I would use generous overlap onto the hull, and check very carefully for air bubbles, anything larger than 0.25" needs to be cut out and patched. You might want to put extra glass down here.

To be honest, the second method appeals to me the most. I'd probably do that anyway as I'd like a nice flat interior surface. Mix whatever you like into the putty to bulk it out, and pour it in the bottom of the depression. Press the prefitted wood in it letting the putty ooze out, smooth and glass over immediately.

Whatever you do ensure that all transistions are well rounded and reinforced. Sudden changes of profile are stress concentrators, and a stringer sitting on top of a change in hull profile needs to be dealt with carefully.

[OneWayTraffic]

so, I have created a problem..
My stringers are in but I placed them next to the chine..the inside..no issues,,,BUT the other side is right at the chine and I am trying to figure a way to tab in that side ..as you can see..its in the ditch of the chine ..
I am thinking of tabbing it in with just the 1 1/2 inch of tab in the chine and then a second tab basically skipping over the chine to connect to the flat surface but will have a gap between the two tabs..I really dont want to have to FILL IN the chine..
any suggestions other than what I am thinking?

Whatever you do do not leave a gap in the hull. Just asking for water ingress, and a layer of glass tight against the hull is better than two in the air. Better to just run the glass down and into the curve. Terminate it there, and then you could run a layer of tape from the flat surface, down into the chine on top of this. Use putty on the curves.

What glass and resin are you using?

[Saltfix]

I think the #2 option is where I will go....that sounds the easiest and most solid. Thank you for the input.

[Saltfix]

As this is a multi chine hull..I apologize for not making that clear..

[Fuzz]

Ok I guess I was blind I like OWT's cure. He outlined things well.

[fallguy1000]

I've looked at the pics and apparently I'm not ready for prime time bcuz I don't see the issue.