1977 14 foot Hi-Laker Transom rebuild

[Stockskipper]

STARTING A TRANSOM REBUILD ON A SWEET 1973 14 FOOT HI-LAKER BOAT MADE BY NELSON PLASTICS IN WASHINGTON STATE . I HAVE THE TRANSOM CORE REMOVED WITH OUTSIDE SKIN INTACT AND INSIDE SKIN INTACT. I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO CUT TO GET FULL EXPOSURE TO THE INSIDE OF THE TRANSOM SO IT CAN BE FIBERGLASSED/ FILET/ FILLED FOR THE BEST RESULT. THE MAIN 2.5 INCH WIDE STRINGER IN RUNNING IN CENTER OF FLOOR AND IS IN GOOD SHAPE.

THE MAIN QUESTION IS DO I HAVE TO CUT INTO THE FOAM FILLED SEATS ON BOTH SIDES TO GET THIS JOB DONE CORRECTLY.

(PS I USED A 12 IN TRUSTY OLD MAC TRIM CHAIN SAW TO CORE OUT THE TRANSOM COMPLETLY WITHOUT DAMAGE TO THE FIBERGLASS SKINS... I DONT RECOMMEND THIS PROCEEDURE, UNLESS YOU ARE VERY COMFORTABLE AND EXPERIENCED WITH A CHAIN SAW!!!
WEAR FACESHIELD AND HEARING PROTECTION ALWAYS.
TOOK 3 HOURS TOTAL AND A 1.5 TANKS OF FUEL.

HERE ARE SOME PHOTOS..

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

[Stockskipper]

https://www.nwyachting.com/classic-nort ... ent-228861 HERE IS WHAT I HOPE THE BOAT LOOKS LIKE WHEN FINISHED.

[fallguy1000]

Well, how thick a piece can go in?

The problem you have is forcing the new transom plywood into thickened resins will drive air around and it will be really hard to get a great bond.

But, ripping out the seats sucks.

What I would do is get an oscillating tool and some 1-2" carbide heads for it and remove the splashwell. It was already damaged by your saw work. Then you can cut out the entire panel below it and then tell us how deep it is to the bottom of the transom below the splashwell by the chairs.

See, you pickup a lot of strength by epoxying (sic) the splashwell back in place. And it allows you some working room for puttying epoxy all over. Be warned, an inch thick of epoxy putty will get hot, so you need to limit the putties when/if you try to insert a finished ply into the hole.

[fallguy1000]

Well, how thick a piece can go in?

The problem you have is forcing the new transom plywood into thickened resins will drive air around and it will be really hard to get a great bond.

But, ripping out the seats sucks.

What I would do is get an oscillating tool and some 1-2" carbide heads for it and remove the splashwell. It was already damaged by your saw work. Then you can cut out the entire panel below it and then tell us how deep it is to the bottom of the transom below the splashwell by the chairs.

All easy to repair, too...just putty it all back in..the skin removed can be tabbed to the chairs; the sole and splashwell bottom easily and the bottom already needs it anyway.

See, you pickup a lot of strength by epoxying (sic) the splashwell back in place. And it allows you some working room for puttying epoxy all over. Be warned, an inch thick of epoxy putty will get hot, so you need to limit the putties when/if you try to insert a finished ply into the hole.

[pee wee]

I know that by and large working from the inside of the hull is recommended, but is this a case where it might be better to remove the outside skin? Yes, you get into having to fair into and repaint the hull, so . . .

[Stockskipper]

THANKS REMOVING THE SPLASH WELL IS GREAT IDEA.
I WOULD HAVE TO CUT INTO THE SEAT FOAM THAT RUNS TO THE REAR OF BOAT BUT SEATS REMAIN INTACT.
I DONT KNOW WHAY I DIDNT SEE THAT.
YES THE TOP OF THE SPLASH WELL WAS ALREADY REMOVED WHEN I BOUGHT BOAT. I CAN JUST GLASS IT BACK IN IN SAME POSITION.
THESE BOATS WERE MADE FOR CRABBING IN THE BAYS AND SOUNDS IN THE NORTHEAST. THE SET UP IS PERFECT FOR ANY BIG LAKE FISHING IN BIG WATER FOR A SMALL BOAT LIKE THIS.
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS OR A LIST OF MATERIALS YOU RECOMMEND WOULD BE GREAT.

THANKS FOR YOUR IDEAS!