GT23

[fallguy1000]

I can't go along with no primer.

Even a single primer coat is like a sticky coat. The primer sticks to even slightly unsanded epoxy (think low spots). Then the ablative will also stick better to the primer than sanded epoxy. Ablatives are almost always applied before the primer cures fully (read directions).

Anyhow, ablative paint is intentionally a weak bond. You don't want a weak bond applied to no tie coat.

Ablative would not perform well on roller trailers either, so hope you are bunking.

Anyhow, my 2 cents.

[drbobopp@gmail.com]

Thanks for your quick reply.....

trying mainly to even out dimpling, today, i put a neat coat on her bottom, using FAST hardener....In places, things began to gel too fast (in the pot, on the roller. drips.....but once I got it spread out, the curing process slowed.....On the Second layer 2 hours later, stuff still tacky, I took yur advice and mixed in a bit of SLOW hardener. Also used smaller batches. Much better.

I'm gonna stop here. Several layers of epoxy, cloth, graphite (even if heavy-handedly), more epoxy....now primer and bottom paint.

Ok, i'll prime her first. Makes sense, and I prolly have enough two-part epoxy primer around to do it.

[fallguy1000]

I'm an expert user at this point with 350 gallons of use.

I'd never use fast for neatcoatinf a 23' bottom.

Good luck. I thing you need to buy the ablative before you prime. They are strict about hours after primer, ftmp.

[drbobopp@gmail.com]

An update and a question....

Got her bottom painted----graphited, neat-epoxied x 4 layers (the Fast was too fast, but a 50-50 mix in the cool winter weather worked well....I could get subsequent coats on sooner, could do two coats after work, at night. Wouldnt try that in the Alabama summer), primed, and coated with ablative paint. I decided to forego runners on the bottom. I have the sides faired. A little more sanding and prep to do there, but then will prime and paint.

After that, i will put on rubrails. I have some long white oak stock that I plan to use, ~7/8s thick....

Questions:
1) What kind of joint? The stock I have is about 12-14 feet. So it will require a joint. I'm planning to use a simple half lap joint. Thoughts?
2) What kind of glue? I have used epoxy on white oak, with generally good results. I have had some epoxied white oak floorboards pop loose, but they are living in a war zone.
But rather than epoxy, I have some 5200 from BoatBuilderCentral, and would like to use that. Ideas?

[joe2700]

After that, i will put on rubrails. I have some long white oak stock that I plan to use, ~7/8s thick....

Questions:
1) What kind of joint? The stock I have is about 12-14 feet. So it will require a joint. I'm planning to use a simple half lap joint. Thoughts?
2) What kind of glue? I have used epoxy on white oak, with generally good results. I have had some epoxied white oak floorboards pop loose, but they are living in a war zone.
But rather than epoxy, I have some 5200 from BoatBuilderCentral, and would like to use that. Ideas?

I did a white oak rub rail and the joint in the middle of it is under a lot of pressure from both bending and twisting. I used a long scarf joint glued with epoxy(S3 gelmagic) and all white oak was cleaned multiple times with a solvent before glue up to try to reduce oils near the surface. It has held up fine.

For attaching it to the boat 5200 will be a fine adhesive and sealant if you are also using mechanical fasteners. I would not use it as the only means of attachment unless you are aiming for a rub rail that is removable or just along a flat surface.