Been lurking here and on Glenn L for the last month. Started my build on 3/5/24. Need all the help and advice I can get
Don't crucify me for not using the correct boat terms, I'm getting there!
A few questions
1. Per Plans: Clamping board total thickness 1.25" for 25 HP or less, add one layer of plywood, total 1/75" for engines above 25 HP. I was thinking 40HP but am open to suggestions. Would like to cruise at 25-30mph on flat water. Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?
1.1. What is the sweet spot motor for this build? If I don't need 40hp why spend the extra?
2. I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person.
--Is this possible and a good idea?
--Will doing this cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?
3. How is the 4" at the gunwale measured? From outside hull or outside of rub rail?
4. What are you using for cleat material 1"x1"?
Jig with forms.
First Epoxy Job
RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Bump on first post questions
Today’s questions:
I epoxied a few puzzle joints yesterday and smoothed out plastic on them and added weight . Check out pic.
I assume I need to sand those smooth?
Or will FG cover the rough surface?
What are best practices for smooth epoxy surfaces?
Had some epoxy left over so decided not to waste it and applied to one side piece. Doesn’t seem like the best idea this morning started with 60grit what grit should I sand too?
Decided to add FG to one side of the puzzle joint since I have to eventually. Tried the wet on wet. At least it saved me some sanding.
Looking for tips cause I surely don’t know what I’m doing!
Today’s questions:
I epoxied a few puzzle joints yesterday and smoothed out plastic on them and added weight . Check out pic.
I assume I need to sand those smooth?
Or will FG cover the rough surface?
What are best practices for smooth epoxy surfaces?
Had some epoxy left over so decided not to waste it and applied to one side piece. Doesn’t seem like the best idea this morning started with 60grit what grit should I sand too?
Decided to add FG to one side of the puzzle joint since I have to eventually. Tried the wet on wet. At least it saved me some sanding.
Looking for tips cause I surely don’t know what I’m doing!
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Tommy,
I would definitely sand those areas smooth. This will be easier when the panel is lying flat on the ground. In the future, only need to coat a few inches on either side of the puzzle joint and then lay plastic down. The rest of the plywood can be coated by rolling out a thin coat with a 1/8" nap roller or high density foam roller. This can be done while the panels are lying flat on the ground or once they are hung on the frames.
Also, I don't like to put a fiberglass splice on the joint until the panel is stitched together. This will ensure that you don't get any flat spots. It's not a big deal, it still should bend just fine.
-Reid
I would definitely sand those areas smooth. This will be easier when the panel is lying flat on the ground. In the future, only need to coat a few inches on either side of the puzzle joint and then lay plastic down. The rest of the plywood can be coated by rolling out a thin coat with a 1/8" nap roller or high density foam roller. This can be done while the panels are lying flat on the ground or once they are hung on the frames.
Also, I don't like to put a fiberglass splice on the joint until the panel is stitched together. This will ensure that you don't get any flat spots. It's not a big deal, it still should bend just fine.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
I don't know this particular plan, but in general the gunwale overlaps the rubrail, so the 4" gunwale width would include the rubrail.
Good luck with your build
Good luck with your build
Built C17 (app.php/gallery/album/262), GF14, Devlin Bella 16. Sails a 30ft Biloup 89 sailboat.
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Reid, Thanks for your prior answers and help
What about these items??
---Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?
--- I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person. (see picture of plan above).
So station E-- small deck 7", seats, and driver controls--station D--10" deck, seats and footrest--- Station C-- open center with only 4" or 5" king plank at the gunwale all the way to station B. So from D to B it would be open except for 10" deck all the way across in front of station D. Deck from B to bow.
I know we talked about RB18 but this is a little different layout.
--Is this possible and a good idea?
--Will putting the controls in front of station E cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?
Thanks
What about these items??
---Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?
--- I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person. (see picture of plan above).
So station E-- small deck 7", seats, and driver controls--station D--10" deck, seats and footrest--- Station C-- open center with only 4" or 5" king plank at the gunwale all the way to station B. So from D to B it would be open except for 10" deck all the way across in front of station D. Deck from B to bow.
I know we talked about RB18 but this is a little different layout.
--Is this possible and a good idea?
--Will putting the controls in front of station E cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?
Thanks
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Tommy, Reid is on vacation through next week. Jeff
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Bump for Reid
Bump for Reid or anyone else with answers or opinions.TommyD wrote: ↑Thu Mar 07, 2024 5:56 pm Reid, Thanks for your prior answers and help
What about these items??
---Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?
--- I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person. (see picture of plan above).
So station E-- small deck 7", seats, and driver controls--station D--10" deck, seats and footrest--- Station C-- open center with only 4" or 5" king plank at the gunwale all the way to station B. So from D to B it would be open except for 10" deck all the way across in front of station D. Deck from B to bow.
I know we talked about RB18 but this is a little different layout.
--Is this possible and a good idea?
--Will putting the controls in front of station E cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?
Thanks
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
I like your plan.
I have never seen a recommedation from the designers against opening up the top of a frame so long as the sides and bottom of frame are present.
Seems to me your new transom layer can be put on the outside to avoid all that other stuff. I think.
And if you're putting your weight toward the back, you'll just add some weight up front to balance it.
You could wait to hear from Reid to be sure, but I didnt want to see you come to a stop while waiting.
I have never seen a recommedation from the designers against opening up the top of a frame so long as the sides and bottom of frame are present.
Seems to me your new transom layer can be put on the outside to avoid all that other stuff. I think.
And if you're putting your weight toward the back, you'll just add some weight up front to balance it.
You could wait to hear from Reid to be sure, but I didnt want to see you come to a stop while waiting.
Some people are heroes. Some others just want a pic
Push the envelope. Watch it bend.
FB-11 Jean Bille in 2017, rebuilt '23
Push the envelope. Watch it bend.
FB-11 Jean Bille in 2017, rebuilt '23
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Yes I see no issue with the cockpit layout.
For the transom, if you're adding a layer inside, indeed adjust the motor well accordingly, maybe the stringers depending on where the layer goes (if it's just a clamping board it may sit above the stringers ?
A boat this size will be sensitive to weight distribution, with the crew at the back it may ride a little bow high and take more time to go on plane, so indeed put weight forward as you can. Maybe trim tabs also.
For the transom, if you're adding a layer inside, indeed adjust the motor well accordingly, maybe the stringers depending on where the layer goes (if it's just a clamping board it may sit above the stringers ?
A boat this size will be sensitive to weight distribution, with the crew at the back it may ride a little bow high and take more time to go on plane, so indeed put weight forward as you can. Maybe trim tabs also.
Built C17 (app.php/gallery/album/262), GF14, Devlin Bella 16. Sails a 30ft Biloup 89 sailboat.
Re: RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky
Do I need to angle/fair the bottom of the transom to match the motor well side?
If I don’t will this not create dip at the top joint of the transom while creating a rise at the bottom.
Or does glue and fiberglass solve this problem without doing anything else???
The top of the transom is flush with the top of the motor well when they meet but will have a gap on the outer sideIf I don’t will this not create dip at the top joint of the transom while creating a rise at the bottom.
Or does glue and fiberglass solve this problem without doing anything else???
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