Lithium Retrofit

[narfi]

Rewired the heating system with a relay controlling the thermostats and fans.

Before I had two control units, one for each diesel fired espar heater. Then 3 thermostats in each hull for a total of 6 thermostats running 6 radiator heating fans, each with their own power switches.

So to turn on heat I would turn on the boilers (2 switches) then turn on each of the thermostats in the rooms I wanted them on in (up to 6 more switches).

Now instead of having to go to each room, I can just turn the two boilers on and as long as the thermostat switches are on, the relay turns them on as well.

The boiler controls can be set with timers, so now I could set the heaters to turn on an hour before we plan to wake up and everything will turn on without any input from me.

I had briefly considered figuring out how to use the relays with the Cerbo to turn it all on. But that's a little too much and I don't want the temptation to turn on the heaters when I'm not there

Have a 25amp fuse powering each each of the relays and there is a control wire from the heater intended for this use so was pretty easy to setup.

[narfi]

Cut a little more into the area for the starboard battery box. It will be pretty tight against the curve of the hull on the aft corner. I think I'll cheat it out a little so the box isn't square to ensure I have enough room for the base of the battery there.

The box tapers a little so no worries at the top, just the bottom. The issue is because the 4/0 cables out one end and the communication cable plugs out the other end require a lot more space than a traditional battery.

I'm making the box 48" long and will cut holes in the ends for the communication plugs to stick through.
The batteries are just 18" long each but with the cables I'll need most of that 48" (I could get it in 42" with the plugs out the ends of the box but want a little room to play)

[narfi]

Cut out the new base for the starboard battery box. Took turns grinding on it and the cabinet frames until it fit as well as it will.

Tweeks to make it fit.
It's about 3/4 to an inch off square to the bed and original battery box.
max 1 inch cut off the corner conflicting with the hull tapered back about 13inches.
Ground the underside away at a taper to fit tighter against the hull.

This leaves 11" at the tight end, the side will be up the hull slightly there so 3/8 for the one side panel still leaves just over 10.5 inches if the battery was shoved all the way into the end of the box which it can't because i need to be able to access the communication ports.(The battery is 10.5in wide but slightly narrower at the feet)

Ground down the flanges on the start battery box enough to fit it down in its new location. Looks like it will work well. Just need to install an end plate on it and decide how I'm tabbing it to the sides.

[narfi]

Glued the end plates on the start battery boxes. Will grind fillet and tape it once cured.

Not sure why but I'm struggling a bit more with paralysis by analysis than I normally do. I just need to start doing and stop thinking. I can always grind away any mistakes.

[narfi]

I think I got over my mental block maybe...

Id been struggling with how to splice the extra few Inches to the bottom of the sides of the battery boxes once I have the new base glued in. Tonight I realized I don't need to. I cut the old completely out and will make full height sides new.

Probably should have built new start battery boxes as well, but they will be mostly hidden and I'm kind of committed now. Maybe I'll change my mind tomorrow though, but for now I'm sticking with reusing then down underneath.

Didn't realize how low I was on vinylester so have some coming from a local shop in Anchorage. (Hopefully Jeff and Reid can forgive me)

My wife would be horrified at how dusty I've made it and has said she won't step inside till I've cleaned up. (Plan is to repair some minor cracked fairing/gelcoat in the cabins and paint anyways)

[Jeff]

Yes, a little dusty Narfi!!! Great work!! Jeff

[narfi]

Yes, a little dusty Narfi!!! Great work!! Jeff

Thanks!!

Built up 4 sets of matched length battery cables. Anderson connectors to go to the batteries and 3/8 lugs to the bank bus.

Taped the exterior of the end plates for the start battery boxes but forgot to take a picture.

Perspective is weird, the picture looks like a little bundle of wires, but it's a heavy pile of 4/0 copper.

[narfi]

A couple nights ago I taped the inside of end plate I added to the start battery boxes. Last night gave them a light sanding and some fairing material. Don't want to put too much effort into them but need smooth enough I can wipe them clean if anything spills.

Not worrying about the outside of the boxes, they will be completely closed off and unaccessible.

Glued in the tabs I will hang them on down between the cabinets. Not 100% on the geometry but pretty sure it will work out :p

[narfi]

I think I've forgotten how to take my daily pictures.
Working on the boxes still. Figured out a method to glass them in without access to the underside, kind of a rube Goldberg approach but should work. Built a lip on the boxes and will install a lip under the bunk that the lip can hang on. They will be supported all around the top by that lip then by the two cupboard bulkheads from below as well as the hull at one end. If it was just the lip supporting it all, I wouldn't like it, but with the entire scheme making it integral with everything it should be ok and look good as well.

Start boxes are glassed in below.

Sanded and routed the outside of the boxes today in prep for glassing the exterior of them before hanging then in place. Had some emails come in so had to call it a night before I could start glassing though. Back at it on Thursday.

Had a weird conundrum with wiring the regulators. The on/off signal wire is supposed to come from the ignition. But the ignition is powered by the start battery and the regulator is supposed to control the house battery alternator.....
I wasn't sure what to do so contacted Wakespeed and they said it doesn't matter, it just needs the signal and should work fine.