GT23

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fallguy1000
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Re: GT23

Post by fallguy1000 »

I can't go along with no primer.

Even a single primer coat is like a sticky coat. The primer sticks to even slightly unsanded epoxy (think low spots). Then the ablative will also stick better to the primer than sanded epoxy. Ablatives are almost always applied before the primer cures fully (read directions).

Anyhow, ablative paint is intentionally a weak bond. You don't want a weak bond applied to no tie coat.

Ablative would not perform well on roller trailers either, so hope you are bunking.

Anyhow, my 2 cents.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

drbobopp@gmail.com
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Re: GT23

Post by drbobopp@gmail.com »

Thanks for your quick reply.....

trying mainly to even out dimpling, today, i put a neat coat on her bottom, using FAST hardener....In places, things began to gel too fast (in the pot, on the roller. drips.....but once I got it spread out, the curing process slowed.....On the Second layer 2 hours later, stuff still tacky, I took yur advice and mixed in a bit of SLOW hardener. Also used smaller batches. Much better.

I'm gonna stop here. Several layers of epoxy, cloth, graphite (even if heavy-handedly), more epoxy....now primer and bottom paint.

Ok, i'll prime her first. Makes sense, and I prolly have enough two-part epoxy primer around to do it.

fallguy1000
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Re: GT23

Post by fallguy1000 »

I'm an expert user at this point with 350 gallons of use.

I'd never use fast for neatcoatinf a 23' bottom.

Good luck. I thing you need to buy the ablative before you prime. They are strict about hours after primer, ftmp.
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viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

drbobopp@gmail.com
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Re: GT23

Post by drbobopp@gmail.com »

An update and a question....

Got her bottom painted----graphited, neat-epoxied x 4 layers (the Fast was too fast, but a 50-50 mix in the cool winter weather worked well....I could get subsequent coats on sooner, could do two coats after work, at night. Wouldnt try that in the Alabama summer), primed, and coated with ablative paint. I decided to forego runners on the bottom. I have the sides faired. A little more sanding and prep to do there, but then will prime and paint.

After that, i will put on rubrails. I have some long white oak stock that I plan to use, ~7/8s thick....

Questions:
1) What kind of joint? The stock I have is about 12-14 feet. So it will require a joint. I'm planning to use a simple half lap joint. Thoughts?
2) What kind of glue? I have used epoxy on white oak, with generally good results. I have had some epoxied white oak floorboards pop loose, but they are living in a war zone.
But rather than epoxy, I have some 5200 from BoatBuilderCentral, and would like to use that. Ideas?

joe2700
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Re: GT23

Post by joe2700 »

drbobopp@gmail.com wrote: Sat Apr 27, 2024 8:35 pm After that, i will put on rubrails. I have some long white oak stock that I plan to use, ~7/8s thick....

Questions:
1) What kind of joint? The stock I have is about 12-14 feet. So it will require a joint. I'm planning to use a simple half lap joint. Thoughts?
2) What kind of glue? I have used epoxy on white oak, with generally good results. I have had some epoxied white oak floorboards pop loose, but they are living in a war zone.
But rather than epoxy, I have some 5200 from BoatBuilderCentral, and would like to use that. Ideas?
I did a white oak rub rail and the joint in the middle of it is under a lot of pressure from both bending and twisting. I used a long scarf joint glued with epoxy(S3 gelmagic) and all white oak was cleaned multiple times with a solvent before glue up to try to reduce oils near the surface. It has held up fine.

For attaching it to the boat 5200 will be a fine adhesive and sealant if you are also using mechanical fasteners. I would not use it as the only means of attachment unless you are aiming for a rub rail that is removable or just along a flat surface.

drbobopp@gmail.com
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Re: GT23

Post by drbobopp@gmail.com »

Good information, thanks....

drbobopp@gmail.com
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Re: GT23

Post by drbobopp@gmail.com »

Progress report, and a question:
She is still upside down, but we're getting there. Her bottom is complete, ablative-painted, ready for the water. Still getting her sides, and her two transoms, bow and stern, ready for paint. I have her sides faired with QuikFair. Amazing stuff. I think spreading on the fairing is one of my favorite parts of building these boats.

So, when do you stop fairing, sanding, fairing, sanding.....and start painting? I did the FS-14 in the same teal color as the boat on the BoatBuilderCentral's webpage....beautiful...I just kept fairing and sanding. Very pleased with the finish. Did not go to so much effort on Bolger's Oldshoe, because she is an ugly duckling anyway. But she still looks good in her homebuilt glory.

Now, this build is massive. Getting a yacht-grade finish everywhere will mean a LOT of time and effort. And the GT-23 is a little bit like Bolger's Oldshoe--not exactly meant to be a classic beauty, anyway. Any thoughts? She will be painted (after priming of course) with a midnight blue paint from BBC. Am hoping the dark color will mitigate imperfections in her surface.

And here is the Big Question: With all the sanding and fairing, the surface has a variegated visual appearance...... it hard to tell if the surface is smooth. Mostly I use touch to detect uneven patches, then either sand or fair over spots.....but...

How far do you go before priming?

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cape man
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Re: GT23

Post by cape man »

As far as you want. It's your boat. If you're happy, paint her and slap the fool who tells you that the finish is bad. If you're not happy, or forever will be unhappy, keep fairing and sanding.

I'm happy with both my boats, but neither is perfect. Have never had to slap anyone... 8)
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

rick berrey
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Re: GT23

Post by rick berrey »

I don't know if your adding any color to your fairing mix , but that,s a good way to find the low spots . If your going to go over it one more time I would add some color to see if there are any real bad spots before painting .

pee wee
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Re: GT23

Post by pee wee »

Once some primer goes on you'll have a better idea of how it's going to look/see things you missed. An epoxy primer will be compatible with the fairing compounds. Cracker Larry's method was to get a garden hose and wet it down; while it's wet and shiny you can more easily see what a gloss finish is going to look like.

Seeing it and deciding what to do about it are different, though! Some builders enjoy the process and go the extra mile, while others ask themselves if they'd rather be building a boat or using a boat. A bit of introspection is called for at this point.

Also, post pictures! We can't make the decision for you, but we like pictures! :D
Hank

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