PG25

[rick berrey]

I would put a 2x4 from bottom of your sill to the ground screwed to your legs about every 4' . As long as your strong back / jig is level you are good . I assume you will be standing / working on un-level ground , as long as you don't have a bad hip like me you may be good , you can always get some cinder blocks , throw some 4x4 ,s on and half way level , then nail down some ply to stand on .

[Longislandfish]

I added legs every 2 ft on center with a leveled paver on hard pack dirt, everything is level and square.

I’m trying to picture what you are suggesting. Are you saying like 45 degree braces or like feet, like a 90 degree angle from the bottom of the leg so is has more lateral stability?

[rick berrey]

What you have in the last picture is what I'm talking about , you may already have it done and I just couldn't see it . Have the sill load bear on a 2x4 and not rely on the nail,s for " shear " load bearing .

[Longislandfish]

I have a question for the designer or anyone who can give an answer as to why powering the 25 panga with anything over a 125hp not recommended? What parameters must be met in order to achieve the possibility of a light 150hp outboard? I know 90hp is fine as per other builders but I don’t want to build the hull and under power it. Most 25 Yamaha designs are running at least a 115hp outboard, almost identical in weight and are 100 percent self bailing. My only thought is that the sole on the Yamaha design hulls is higher and perhaps some beefing up of the transom. Would adding another layer or ply brining the overal laminate schedule 4 layers of 1/2 or 2 inches plus adding an additional layer of ply to the stringers make this possible?

At the very least i would be powering it with a Suzuki df140BA which is 400lbs and revs out at around 6200rpm. Swings a larger prop since it has a larger gear ratio.

I love the design, but 90hp on a 25ft hull with max hull speed of 30mph is not enough performance for me.

40 would be acceptable. I already asked if raising the sole 1 or 2 inches would be helpful to offset the self bailing issue.

I really wanna build this boat and I’m sure anything is possible.

[fallguy1000]

I have a question for the designer or anyone who can give an answer as to why powering the 25 panga with anything over a 125hp not recommended? What parameters must be met in order to achieve the possibility of a light 150hp outboard? I know 90hp is fine as per other builders but I don’t want to build the hull and under power it. Most 25 Yamaha designs are running at least a 115hp outboard, almost identical in weight and are 100 percent self bailing. My only thought is that the sole on the Yamaha design hulls is higher and perhaps some beefing up of the transom. Would adding another layer or ply brining the overal laminate schedule 4 layers of 1/2 or 2 inches plus adding an additional layer of ply to the stringers make this possible?

At the very least i would be powering it with a Suzuki df140BA which is 400lbs and revs out at around 6200rpm. Swings a larger prop since it has a larger gear ratio.

I love the design, but 90hp on a 25ft hull with max hull speed of 30mph is not enough performance for me.

40 would be acceptable. I already asked if raising the sole 1 or 2 inches would be helpful to offset the self bailing issue.

I really wanna build this boat and I’m sure anything is possible.

The designer passed away not too long ago.

The Panga designs were simple boats that could be powered on lower horsepower. I cannot tell you exactly the reasons from a stability perspective why the PG25 is not setup for higher speeds, but Pangas are very narrow and very narrow boats respond quicker to helm than wider boats and the faster you go, the more likely a spinout can occur. Spinouts result in harm to occupants and/or drowning.

Not sure if Tom knows more. I can search the forums a bit, but I don’t believe it is as simple as a layer of glass.

When a boat hull is designed, the stringers, the hull thickness and skins are all affected by speed. Mertens scantlings were probably not designed for a 33% speed increase. 40/30 is 10mph faster on 30..

It would be better if you would start your own thread.

[fallguy1000]

Looks like others already answered. Disregard my post, ftmp.

[OneWayTraffic]

The study plans indicate that you can put a 150hp on it. 'Not recommended' is not the same as 'do not do it.'

Trawling the designers posts on the Panga's and similar warped bottom designs it seems that there's diminished returns past 25mph. At 2600pounds he states in one post that 65hp actual hp applied at the shaft would be enough to go at 25mph for the PG25. That would tend to indicate that a 90hp working at 2/3 throttle would be suitable. He indicates that at 40mph you would be better off with a different boat, such as a C21 or something. If this is for offshore use, I'd suggest that you might be more comfortable at the slower speeds regardless.

https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... rd#p350718

[Fuzz]

For me I would prefer a boat that can run 25 comfortable and get good mileage doing it. In the past 20 years I have had 3 different boats that were able to run 40 plus. When running offshore I don't think the seas were such that I was able to run 40 for 20 hours total. But then I have no idea what your normal conditions are like.

[TomW1]

longislandfish The DF140 is a fine motor and can spin a number of props, it actually weighs 4lbs less than the Suzuki 115 per Suzuki's technical information. I can help you select the right prop when the time is right, I have done about 15-20 of these boats using my prop calculators. Be careful with weight distribution on the PG25 as you can read on PangaRons problems before he solved them. Maybe move the console a foot or so forward. You do not need to make any changes to the building plans.

Tom