AD16 SEATS

[llew]

Thanks for the pic and explanation Angelo. I decided that I might cut the seat tops wider and then fit them directly to the stringers (seat sides). If it proves difficult, I may go with a smaller strip ("backrest') really confused me as well.

Jacques, yes the hull is assembled. Just 10 minuted ago I dry fitted the top deck panel (with clamps to bend them onto the camber). Now it really looks like an Adelie . I used 9mm in any event, cut from one piece with a very small strip added onto the side as the width of 2 x618mm is just more than the width of a plywood sheet. I have not added the little piece in the fron, as I want an anchor locker (more of a sunken box with an open top) there.
Tomorrow I will splice 6mm ply for the two deck sides. I will then place the ply onto the sides and draw the outlines on ply. I will then still take a bendy stick and make sure that the lines are fair. I was thinking about taking the deck panels off after spot welding C, but I am now beginning to think that I might just fix them. But only after I have finished painting the inside, and I have a way to go before I get there.

I have number of pics on my camera, and have searched high and low for my USB cable. Monday I will buy myself one of those compact flash card readers. Apparantly downloading the pics from them is fast . Then I will create a builders gallery. It is really nice to see the boat taking shape and am happy to share that with one and all.

ps. Angelo, I reckon I am going to be rather happy with the Adelie and wont be able to stop myself from dancing

[llew]

I must apologise for the quality of the pics that I have posted. I have not bought my flash card reader, but have taken these with my cell phone...hence the bad quality. Once I am ready I will upload decent pics.


I fitted a bouyancy tank compartment (or collision bulkhead..whatever), and an anchor locker up front. The cabin roof is only bonded across frame B at this stage. I was going all the way, but relaised that it would be easier to put the anchor locker in before.

I have worked out the seat bit. It can not be seen clearly from the plans (due to the scale), but the seat tops ar actually concave. This is due to the "sweep" of the sheerline, upwards towards the transom. Hence the concave camber on the narrow strip that link the seat tops and seat sides. I am not sure that I am mad about this. I may just straigten the shear line (take off about an inch total at the transom, which I have wisely not yet bonded into place). If I do this, then I can make the seat top and curved portion out of one piece. This may be easier and provide a better finish as there would be one less joint.

I hope to have the cabin roof in place and bonded by the weekend.

[ArizonaBuilder]

Llewellyn,

The boat is looking great. Good job.

[Jonnas]

Good job Llew! Thanks for posting the pictures. Keep it up!

[abr]

Hi Llewellyn !
Well done

Many thanks for your pics and for the explanation about the concave seat camber. Now the reason is clear.

Go on and keep sending pics !!! I hope to do the same in a month or so.

Angelo

[ArizonaBuilder]

Llewellyn,

What are your plans for the bow. Are you going to round/build up the front stern piece?

I am debating how I am going to build up the outside front stern piece to give me a nice round front edge to the hull.

[Jonnas]

Hi Terry! Congratulations on your progress, and thanks for the pictures.
Regarding the stem, here's what I would try: carv a rounded stem piece out of rigid foam (this way you can try different shapes accordingly) and glue it on top of the plywood stem. Fiberglass it as part of the hull.
Important: Don't forget to sort out the access to install the bow chainplate.

[jacquesmm]

Why not leave it as it is? Why would you sharpen the bow? Look around at other sailboats, there is always a radius there and often more than what we use on the AD16.
At the cutwater, the radius is 1/2"!
I sailed and designed all kinds of boats. I raced a lot too and won often: my boats did not have razor sharp bows.
Go to a boat show and check the racing boats, they have the same radius.

[ArizonaBuilder]

I am not looking at creating a razor point at the bow, but a nice radius along the length equal to the width of the stem piece at any one particular height.

So the radius will increase from the hull up to the top just as the stem piece does.. I hope that explains things better.

[JustRight]

The bows on the VG is a tapered flat peice with perhaps 1/2 inch roundovers on the edges. It tapers from a small radious at the WL to probably 2 inches at the sheer line, enough to mount the headstay tang. I searched my entire web site for a good picture but didn't find any better than this. Perhaps because the bow was up against the back wall, I never took a picture during construction.


http://amateurboatbuilding.com/ProjectJ ... /move3.jpg