VG18 Questions

[ggracer]

Jacques,

I received my VG18 plans, very nice. I do have a few questions that I haven't seen covered in these forums.

1) Curved frames - on frames B, C, and maybe D (don't have the plans in front of me right now), there is a curve in the chine panel section of the frames. This, in my mind, is an attempt to "torture" the chine panel into a slight curvature. Same was on the VG20 plans. However, this seems to infer that this section of the frames should push against the chine panel to create the curve, but that goes against the recommendation that the frames not create any 'hard spots' against the panels. Thoughts?

2) There was discussion in the study plans on removing the hanging locker and the sink/stove, and making more room for seating. I'd like to do this, do you have any drawings to do this, or should I just make the 'obvious' changes in the frames to remove these items and simply extend the bunks to create more seating?

3) Would it be possible to get dimensions for a 'normal' jib for this boat? As I'll be sailing in San Francisco bay, which typically has quite strong and consistent winds, I'd like the option of perhaps a 100-130% jib/genoa on a roller furler. I will build the bow pole, but would like the option of a roller furler jib.

4) The nesting shows 2 CB cutouts on the 1/2" ply, and 2 on the 3/8" ply. Which 3 do you suggest I use?

Assuming I move forward with construction (90% chance , I'm sure I'll have other questions, but as my 4th boat, I see little difficulty in the construction. Really looking forward to starting construction!!!!!

Many thanks,

Glen

[jacquesmm]

1. It is not tortured. That surface is a section of a cone and that is why there is camber there. If you cut it straight it will not fit.
2. You can do that and do not need a drawing: cut the opening to extend the berth but keep 3" all around the frame. This is called a ring bulkhead, you must keep those 3".
3. That is really a question for your sailmaker but, you can't see it on the study plans but the sail plan shows a 130% genoa as standard and no problem to put it on a roller furler. This is the same rig than the VG20 and Justin, the 1st builder, uses a genoa on a roller furler since 10 years.
4. All of them. You glue those 3 layers together to make the CB.

[ggracer]

Jacques,
Thanks for the quick reply, as always. Some clarification needed (maybe I'm just not awake yet!)

1. It is not tortured. That surface is a section of a cone and that is why there is camber there. If you cut it straight it will not fit.

Excellent...

2. You can do that and do not need a drawing: cut the opening to extend the berth but keep 3" all around the frame. This is called a ring bulkhead, you must keep those 3".

That's what I thought, thanks.

3. That is really a question for your sailmaker but, you can't see it on the study plans but the sail plan shows a 130% genoa as standard and no problem to put it on a roller furler. This is the same rig than the VG20 and Justin, the 1st builder, uses a genoa on a roller furler since 10 years.

The sail plan only shows 2 sails, the 'flying jib' and the spinnakar, both running off the extended pole. Am I missing the dimensions for a 'normal' jib, attached to the forestay? Or are you suggesting using the dimensions of the flying jib but putting a furler on the end of the pole?

4. All of them. You glue those 3 layers together to make the CB.

The plans indicate that the CB is to be made "3 layers of 3/8" plywood", but the nesting diagram shows 2 of 1/2" and 2 of 3/8". Should I use 2x3/8" + 1x1/2" and just do a little extra sanding? No big deal, but it's inconsistent...

Congratulations on a fantastic design, and thanks for your excellent support of your clients...

Glen

[jacquesmm]

Genoa: Correct, I was looking at the VG20 sail plan and it shows the genoa. The VG18 has the same rig within 1 or 2 inches, only the foretriangle base is a little shorter.
The VG20 genoa would work but because the deck is a little shorter and the forestay attaches a little back, I quickly drafted on that fits. It is:
Luff: 243", foot: 122", leech 233".
Larger than that would get in the spreaders when close hauled. This one is already border line.
What I show on the plans is my preference: a high cut jib (blade) and a gennaker or cruising chute.
The genoa will work too.
Sail wardrobe choices is very much left to the sailor himself. I can tell you what will fit but you decide what you prefer.

CB and trunk.
Let's start with the trunk. It is 2" wide inside. Add some glass etc. and you have 1-3/4 left.
The CB plans say, total thickness 1-5/8". That's fine, the 1-5/8" CB will fit well in the 1-3/4" trunk.
Now, the text above that is wrong. It says from 3 layers of 3/8, that doesn't work for me but could work for you, keep reading.
I can build the CB as follow:
From the nesting, I use the 4 layers and have 1-3/4 before sanding. Note that 1/2" ply is finer than 1/2" but the glue makes up for the difference.
Shape the CB to the profile we show and you should end up with 1-1/2" thickness at the widest point. Coat with glass as specified, fair and paint and you must end up with a total thickness of 1-5/8.
IF you are messy and use too much fiberglass and resin to glue and to cover the CB, it will be thicker.
In that case, you have the option of sanding the glass down to 1-5/8 or to start with less like 2 layers 1/2" and one 3/8 and then keep adding glass until you get to 1-5/8.
If you build the CB after building the hull, you will enough experience to do a good job and start with the 4 layers of ply. If you start by building the small parts, either sand more of the wood down or use one less layer.

Another point:
the CB trunk is 2" wide inside before fiberglassing. That means that you must use two of the 1x1 spacers that we show or one 1x2 between the side panels.
Whatever you do, the trunk should end up being around 1-3/4" inside and the CB should fit in there within 1/8", max. 1/4".

[ggracer]

Jacques,
Thanks, that helps alot. I'm relatively new to sloops and still a relatively novice sailor, so don't have the confidence to spec my sails, but I've got some time before that's really in the critical path.

How many other designers would spec a new sail in the time it takes me to get to work? Answer: None.....

Thanks again,

Glen

[jacquesmm]

That's just the dimensions of the sail but you must choose the cloth weight, the shape etc.
For my own boats, I always relied on a good sailmaker.
Talk to him about the kind of sailing you want to do and your skills. He will recommend a type of sail. Buy the furling system from him too, that way you can be certain that it will all fit together.

[Justin Pipkorn]

Glen,

Let me know if I can help with any suggestions.

[ggracer]

Justin,
Thank you very much for the kind offer, I was hoping you'd volunteer If you remember me, I'm the guy from the Cruiser Challange in Monterey with the Bolger Micro. I've since sold the Micro to a woman from Seattle, and I'm looking for another project

I'm sure I'll be picking you brain over the construction process, and of course your web site has been a perpetual source of inspiration over the years.

Thanks,

Glen

[jmwalker]

Glen,

Thank you for your wonderful questions.

I am also building the VG18 and was wondering about the sail and CB. I just hadn't gotten far enough along to be really concerned yet.

I have the large panels all cut out and pre-epoxyed. The bulkheads and side panels are all assembled and ready to go. There is a current cold streak in Chicago that has stopped me from beginning the "real" construction.

Have you decided on a mast yet?

Do you plan on trailering your boat? Do you have one in mind?

Justin, I'm sure that I will be riding on Glen's coattails with your suggestions.

John.

[Justin Pipkorn]

jmwalker

If you live in Chicago, you should definetely meet John Hoaglund. John built the 5% larger Vagabond. He is an especially talented builder. His boat is shown at my web site.

Good luck with your project.