Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Well, I got started a little earlier then I planned. Cut the jig today and got some ply to cut the molds. I will probobly get started on them this weekend. I have a long road ahead of me and I cant wait

Glad to see you get started.

Are you going with disposable frames?

Escuse me, disposable molds? Mike

Mike, I am going with disposable molds. I am using 1/2" ULX for the molds, and BS1088 meranti for the transom. I will later use BS1088 Meranti for the frames.

For the Jig, do you reccomend going 4' or shorter? will the width really make a difference other than stability of the jig?

4' where?

on the plans it say make the jig at a width of 24" to 48"

We have a small problem...... I found out today that I am not allowed to build this boat outside because our neighborhood has some kind of restricton against this. Luckily, I have about 25 ft of space in my garage. I now plan on shortening the length to 23 ft. but still using my 25' plans. J, how will I shorten the length to 23' 2" or so to be a CS23? Do I take a frame out? If so which frame? Thanks.

Dave, trade the plans for the CS23. I will charge only printing cost and shipping (around $ 15.00 total) if you return the CS25 plans.
Don't waste your time scaling.

Alright, Ill send those back on monday and then send you the money throught paypal. Thanks.

J, forget it. I found the space for the 25.

Does any body know if the sell 1/2" or 3/4" MDF at Home Depot or Lowe's? If so, what are the prices? I think I am going to use MDF if I can find it and if it is cheaper than Ply, for Temporary molds. Thanks

MDF doesn't take a screw or nail well in the end-grain. You may have to use some 1 x 1 material to create nailers on the MDF.

The Questin is, what kind of wood should I use for the molds that will:

1.) not warp in the outside temp and weather changes. (covered by a tarp)

2.) like you said, be able to take screws well.

3.) Be tough enough to withstand the pressure of the boat.

If I can get a ply that will match all 3 of these, I will get it. Any ideas. The easiest thing possible would be to use OSB ply 1/2" thick but I dont know how it will handle the outdoors. Maybe having a tarp over it will be different. am I right? or not ?

Any board you use outside with take up moisture unless protected. Maybe you could paint them; one coat of almost any oil based paint would do it. Time to use up those odd tins that have sat in the shed for years

That's a great idea- paint cheap stuff that will take a screw and you should be fine under tarps.

Go ahead and use MDF. Put blocks on for screws and seal as mentioned with some sort of oil based paint and you will be fine. As far as strength I have walked on the bottom of my boat with no problem. Happy building

Capt H

The 3/4" T&G sub-floor partical board has a coating on it to protect from the rain during construction it holds up pretty good the mdf board will suck up water like a sponge on the edges if rained on. I would go with the T&G if in that situation. just my opinion hope this helps.
Don

Have any of you guys who have built under a tarp done anything special to your molds to protect them??

Will the MDF suck in water if I cover the entire jig with a tarp when not building?

J, will 15/32" BC Pine ULX exterior be ok for the molds or will I have to go 23/32"?

worked for about 1 1/2 hrs. today and cut my first 3 molds. Plan on cutting a few more tommarow. I am using BC Pine ULX outdoor 15/32" for the molds.

BTW, I also started a cheap canoe for my brother in law.

All of my molds are now cut out and I think I am ready to order a few sheets of BS1088 for the transom.

-also about to order the epoxy kit for my CC

J, is that trade for the 25' plans to 23' plans still up for $15? I think I am going to happen to trade now.