Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:51 am**

Building a 24-6 scaled down from the 25’ plans with some other modifications as well. Not sure that I could / can build and blog at the same time time but at least I will try to update as I can. Have literally learned so much from so many of you that I think it’s only fair to try to contribute something as well.

First thing I need to do is learn to post a pic.
Failed miserably at it !
Working from an iPad
Uploaded a pic into builders gallery but when I tried moving it kept getting error that said size could not be read ?

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:34 am**

I never bother with a gallery.

I just started a build thread and then add attachments to each post.

The galleries are a mystery to me.

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:43 am**

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13991

or better:

Here is a great youtube video posted by one of our builders (Peter from Curacao), that explains how to post a picture on the forum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scBeYCe88V0

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 11:43 am**

Attachment works

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:43 pm**

Thanks fallguy very simple
Other methods did not work because I an not on a pc

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:19 pm**

Okay have had the prints now for a couple of years.
Though I would start last year but had to many projects to finish up first.
So here we go...
Bought the plywood locally in Massachusetts last August during tax free weekend

Got the fiberglass and resin in January from BBC

Spent January and February cutting and gluing all the parts that I could manageably handle in my shop above my garage.
First glue transom with gel magic adhesive

Cutting transom door, added curved tumble home

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:23 pm**

Homemade puzzle joints and lost of parts

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:42 pm**

Planning on using a Armstrong bracket so I incorporated this upturn to the two inside stringers
Stringers with offset puzzle joints

1D7F6983-BC18-4 [attachment=0]299F920D-BE7A-4B06-9F2B-45B99313C014.jpeg

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:51 pm**

Station / Frame cutting and temp assembly

[fraction][/fraction]

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:01 pm**

Needed just a little more room in the garage
Prefabbed these panels and added a 4’ bump out to the front of my door ( wife still needs to park on her side)

[attachment=1]A95679E6-A36F-4105-936A-B7B22F30FEF1.jpeg[/attachment

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:06 pm**

Homemade microlams and all the parts either came down the stairs or out the window

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:10 pm**

Started assembly March

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:18 pm**

The last sections of the bottom and sides needed to be glued up down stairs

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:26 pm**

That brings us up to today, glued up the final pieces on the side panels should start to stitch thinks together this weekend.
Bought gel majic for the transom and the hull seams. Also got empty caulking tubes. Stringers were bonded with epoxy and wood flour.

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 7:48 am**

That brings back memories

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 9:15 am**

Lookin great!

Question, did you make a template for the puzzle joints or route them freehand?

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 2:51 pm**

Like it. Keep on posting. I'll ask the same question.....

Question, did you make a template for the puzzle joints or route them freehand?

Bill
CT USA

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 3:31 pm**

I made a template
Start with a hole saw and jig saw make some lines sand it until your happy with the fit.
All you need to do is make one and then duplicate it using a ball bearing router bit.
* Make sure to mark centerlines on your templates. Watch the orientation of your pieces as you go.
When routing actual pieces I will remove most of the material with a jig saw first to within about an 1/8 “ then clean up with the router.

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 3:36 pm**

Nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Apr 10, 2019 10:51 pm**

Very nice work and thanks for the explanation on the jig!

Posted: **Thu Apr 11, 2019 5:50 am**

Interesting build so far!

Posted: **Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:41 pm**

Holy S I’ve never seen ply wood bend like this before. Amazing
174 lb wire ties the 75lb ones worked only on the flat areas and if you don’t cinch them too much.

Posted: **Sun Apr 14, 2019 11:03 pm**

That looks really nice! I bet you had lots of fun getting that plywood bent like that

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:40 am**

Very nice! Yeah, that does look like you would have to use HD ties to get it to move.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:20 am**

Very nice! Those ties are thick!

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:30 am**

Hit the tent sale at Jamestown Distributors Saturday

Swag that you get with there paint line

Posted: **Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:45 am**

Used gel Gel majic on the seams ( also used gel majic on the transom glue up earlier)
It is amazing to hold that tension with no mechanical fasteners, thoroughly impressed.
Also hit the wire tie holes with some gel majic too. Complete overkill, wouldn’t even bother next time.

Posted: **Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:20 pm**

Power plan?

Posted: **Mon Apr 22, 2019 7:04 pm**

Planning on an Etec 150 mounted on an Armstrong bracket , though nothing is purchased yet.

Posted: **Mon Apr 22, 2019 11:02 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2019 7:04 pm Planning on an Etec 150 mounted on an Armstrong bracket , though nothing is purchased yet.

I would not buy the motor until you are real close to being done. That point might not come as soon as you hope it does

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:24 am**

Unfortunately the G1 150 is the next to phased out. They have the G2 150’s out already. They have been steadily working there way down the 175’s were the last to go so the 150’s are next on the chopping block.

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2019 7:16 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:24 am Unfortunately the G1 150 is the next to phased out. They have the G2 150’s out already. They have been steadily working there way down the 175’s were the last to go so the 150’s are next on the chopping block.

There is a reason for those phase outs.

It isn't to make poorer products, generally.

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2019 8:37 pm**

Yes but that evaluation adds 80lbs to that particular motor.

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:40 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 8:37 pm Yes but that evaluation adds 80lbs to that particular motor.

You mean the new one is 80 pounds heavier as a four stroke or what?

Not following..

Posted: **Wed Apr 24, 2019 9:06 pm**

Yes, exactly the G2 is a four stroke almost 500 lbs
compared to the G1 two stroke at 418 lbs

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2019 12:19 am**

Those weight penalties pay off in fuel economy, but they kill hole shot.

Is the de a planing hull? I forget.

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2019 5:53 am**

It’s a semi displacement. Most people are running 115’s
There have been many posts about engine sizes and this design 150 is at the top end.

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2019 7:46 am**

I run a 115 Mercury on my NV23 and it tops out at 34 mph i mostly cruise at 3600 rpm at 22 mph.
The evinrude G2 is a 2 stroke outboard and there 150 Ho is rated at 162 hp.

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2019 8:47 am**

Can I ask your anticipated GPH and speed with the 150 at cruise vs. wide open if you have had time to think about it? I haven't come across it for the DE yet that I have seen.

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2019 7:16 pm**

I stand corrected you are right topwater the g2 is a two stroke.
Honestly knowing the weight was increasing was all that I needed to know as far as the spec were concerned.
And yes understand the HO’s can run up to 10% more in horsepower.
I’m impressed with your numbers I’ll be tapping into you later for some info right now I have fiberglassing on my radar.

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:53 am**

Update time, have been busy fiberglassing (and sanding)
Fiberglass went on pretty well all and all.
Did have some problems with peel ply on the first layer. I have used it before on smaller layups with no issues this time however the resin seemed to skim over under the peel ply and leave trapped air on top.

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 11:00 am**

Ended up sanding the entire bottom more than I would have had to without the peel ply

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 11:09 am**

Next layers went on fine, laid one half at a time conceding that I would just have to sand between coats

C0125198-9EA6-4187-AA18-608B78059646.jpeg[/attachment [attachment=1]CDD392AB-AAA7-4D0D-A5FA-31531B64515A.jpeg

P

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 11:12 am**

Outside is glassed.
Looking forward to more sanding

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 2:26 pm**

Lotsa glass.

Peelply over large areas is a major job. It must lay perfectly flat and it must be wetted and all within the time constraints of gelation.

No small task.

We wetted peelply from above for the vac bag jobs and the bigger panels were about 2.5' wide by 33' long. The epoxy is dumped on the peelply. Everything is spun off 3" pvc rollers to keep the peelply tight.

Post edit: want to be sure people understand we wetted the peelply to lay under fiberglass on the vac table, the point here is to spin peelply off pvc tubes to keep it flat

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:17 pm**

Thanks fallguy that’s exactly what happened it’s just good to confirm. Decided not to continue with it for the rest of the hull. Now in sitting on extra peal ply but I’ll use it again on some of the smaller sections and inside contours that I definitely don’t want to sand.
And yes lotsa glass upgraded too 17oz glass on the bottom. It was one of Jacques suggestions on an older thread about engine sizes and the bottom taking a pounding.
On to fairing and sharpening the chines.

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2019 7:09 am**

That brings back some memories

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2019 4:16 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Thu Apr 25, 2019 5:53 am It’s a semi displacement. Most people are running 115’s
There have been many posts about engine sizes and this design 150 is at the top end.

I run a 115 Mercury on my NV23 and it tops out at 34 mph i mostly cruise at 3600 rpm at 22 mph.
The evinrude G2 is a 2 stroke outboard and there 150 Ho is rated at 162 hp.

I get nearly exactly the same performance as topwater in my DE25 with a DF140 on an armstrong bracket. More details in the journal thread. More power doesn't make much sense as the boat isn't that comfortable above 30; it loves to cruise in high teens to mid 20s. Any motor in the 115-150 range is a good match. If I had to pick I'd go with a larger displacement one just to get the RPM/noise down at cruising speed.

The DE and the rest of the hulls in this family are definitely planing hull forms, monohedron low-deadrise v-hulls. Its basically a skiff bottom. Mine planes around 17-18mph.

Hull is looking good! Big project.

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2019 9:29 pm**

Hey Matt that’s great to hear. I read your thread a while back but will have to take another look and refresh my memory.
That’s the comfort zone that I’m looking to run at. Also a great perspective thanks. My dealer is saying the same thing on performance not being that far off from the 115 to 150. I’m a year away from having to make that decision. Also planing on using an Armstrong bracket as well.

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2019 10:17 pm**

That is a lot of hull to make look good and you pulled it off nicely!

Posted: **Tue Jun 18, 2019 6:43 pm**

Thanks man I’m trying there’s a lot of good builds out there to follow. Great info too.

Posted: **Sun Jun 23, 2019 8:14 am**

Sharpening the chines after sanding the last layers of glass.
Set up the typical form ( like others here) with packaging tape on the inside for easy release. Used clamps so no screw holes to fill.

Shimmed the to a nice straight line

The front curved in nicely

This should give me a good guide to fair too..

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:55 am**

It will also give you a good flat surface for your spray rails.

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:08 pm**

Bowthruster layout

Mind game making oval cutout for a round tube

Just dry fit for now

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2019 10:33 pm**

That is really cool and mindblowing! The boat is looking good!

Posted: **Wed Jul 17, 2019 12:32 pm**

Bow thruster glued in with gel magic. Flared the leading edge 3/8” and the back is flush. I will fiberglass it in later going to work on the keel and rails next and then glass them at the same time.

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 3:07 pm**

Had some purpleheart laying around for quite a while finally found a good use for it.

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 3:26 pm**

Milled up some variations of spray rails
Ended up going with some 5/4 qrt sawn white oak.

Also applied rub rails straight stock bent with no problems.

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 3:29 pm**

Glasses in everything

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:00 pm**

Approached fairing like it was drywall, hit all the seams with a 4” knife followed by a 10” knife then skim coated the entire thing in multiple directions. Orbital sanded it in multiple directions. Will follow up by hand and hit it with a coat of primer and see where we’re at.

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:34 pm**

I am jealous. Too soon for fairing.

I have a week or two to go.

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 7:10 pm**

LOL thanks but your building a floating Taj Mahal

Posted: **Mon Aug 26, 2019 6:28 am**

Looking good

Posted: **Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:47 pm**

First coat of primer

Primer really hilights imperfections. More fairing.

And more primer

Posted: **Thu Sep 19, 2019 7:36 am**

Well done!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Sep 22, 2019 5:23 pm**

7 coats of Totalboat Barrier Coat below the water line,4 on the transom, and 2 plus above the waterline

Posted: **Sun Sep 22, 2019 6:38 pm**

Hull is looking really good! What brand of bow thruster are you going with? And I am guessing it will be battery powered?

Posted: **Sun Sep 22, 2019 7:11 pm**

Nice job. I am amazed by the way you use that tight space.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 12:08 pm**

Tight space indeed, but it looks great!

What sort of set up have you used for glassing and fairing up high, around the keel? Step ladder or something more elaborate?

I’m going to be up against a similar situation soon.

Thanks.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 7:57 pm**

Hey Fuzz yes it’s electric I’m going to use a Vetus bow thruster. I put in the smallest tunnel they make that gives me a choice of a couple of different models. That I don’t need to get until later.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 8:11 pm**

Thanks Dan and Jacques it’s manageable the tightest area is at the transom. I’m thinking after the flip that I can drop it down a little onto a lower cradle maybe move it forward a little and use that transom door to get in and out of.
Just working of off ladders and that small two step 4’ platform that I can move around.
I think Peters CS was amazing that he could build in that size space.

Posted: **Tue Sep 24, 2019 8:33 am**

Looking great!

If you want more fairing work, I'll send you my address!

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 9:15 pm**

Spent yesterday prepping for paint. Sprayed first coat today after work.

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 1:20 am**

Really nice looking. And more so knowing it is the first coat.

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 7:33 am**

Nice!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 2:07 pm**

Purty!

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 5:15 pm**

I am jealous again. We are a ?week? from painting.

Looking good.

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 4:06 pm**

Had to rehit a few trouble areas

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 7:03 pm**

Took advantage of the three day weekend last week. And followed it up today finishing the boot stripe.

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 8:33 pm**

Holey smokes that looks good

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 9:34 pm**

Looks great

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 10:10 pm**

That looks amazing.

Posted: **Sun Oct 20, 2019 11:20 am**

Wow! The boot stripe really sets it off.

Dougster

Posted: **Sun Oct 20, 2019 1:48 pm**

Thank you, there are a couple of areas that I wish I had spent a little more time on. It’s no Hinckley but it’s certainly above work boat status. Lol

Posted: **Sun Oct 20, 2019 6:34 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2019 1:48 pm Thank you, there are a couple of areas that I wish I had spent a little more time on. It’s no Hinckley but it’s certainly above work boat status. Lol

Great colors and clean lines!

What type of paint?

Posted: **Sun Oct 20, 2019 9:24 pm**

I used the TotalBoat product line. I stayed with one manufacturer to eliminate any compatibly issues.
Total Fair , fairing compound
Total Protect , epoxy barriercoat (rolled on)
Wet Edge , topside paint (sprayed)
Krypton bottom coat * ( rolled)

I picked the anti fouling paint from the Jamestown Distributor interactive map which lets you zoom into your area and see what products boaters have used and how they have faired. I looked where my boat will be mooried and picked the best paint for my area.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 11:19 am**

That bottom looks fantastic!

From my experience, the boat is a real handful to dock in any kind of wind - it always wants to point the transom into the wind, and doesn't turn up-wind well at all. Cp air is way forward due to cabin; Cp water is well aft due to keel. Especially with the OB on a bracket, turning upwind really needs to be planned. A thruster would be welcome in tight marinas.

The location is tough though - mine floats a little bow high. Bracket likely contributes to that, but I don't know that a thruster as shown would be always submerged. The boat generally runs better with weight loaded forward, which would help keep the thruster down.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 7:34 pm**

Thanks Matt any more thoughts on adding trim tabs to yours ?

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 9:47 am**

Matt Gent wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 11:19 am That bottom looks fantastic!

From my experience, the boat is a real handful to dock in any kind of wind - it always wants to point the transom into the wind, and doesn't turn up-wind well at all. Cp air is way forward due to cabin; Cp water is well aft due to keel. Especially with the OB on a bracket, turning upwind really needs to be planned. A thruster would be welcome in tight marinas.

The location is tough though - mine floats a little bow high. Bracket likely contributes to that, but I don't know that a thruster as shown would be always submerged. The boat generally runs better with weight loaded forward, which would help keep the thruster down.

It looks like you need to add a little lead forward to that rig.

Once you get crew on the back; she is cutting late. Lead will reduce your fuel economy, but the boat will handle better in the breeze.

Windage is an issue for many boats, but the bow must be down for that lightweight girl.

I suspect ballasting might result for the thread owner here as well if you fear the thruster gurgling.

The boat is lovely Matt. If you made me go sit on the bow for ballast, I would deserve it and gladly accept.

The picture may be the half story. Perhaps with the typical headcount; she rides much lower forward, too?

Anyhow, put four of your friends in the cockpit and you'll see for sure. My guess is a little lead is good. Wonder what Mertens says.

In my defense, it looks like water is on the splash rail aft, and we see your waterline 3" up in front.

Another option would be more chain on the rode, but I'd try some 100-200 pounds of lead.

The reason she swings is the front side is a sail. Another solution is a deeper skeg.

I am gonna go back and stare at the boat now. Carry on.

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 3:54 pm**

Tom S. wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2019 9:24 pm I used the TotalBoat product line. I stayed with one manufacturer to eliminate any compatibly issues.
Total Fair , fairing compound
Total Protect , epoxy barriercoat (rolled on)
Wet Edge , topside paint (sprayed)
Krypton bottom coat * ( rolled)

I picked the anti fouling paint from the Jamestown Distributor interactive map which lets you zoom into your area and see what products boaters have used and how they have faired. I looked where my boat will be mooried and picked the best paint for my area.

Very nice, once again. I've been looking at paint recently and that looks like a solid system, for about 1/2 the cost of some other high end options.

Thanks for sharing.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 7:07 pm**

Dan I actually found this product by accident. I’ve been using lacquer and polyurethanes from a local commercial manufacturing company for almost 40 years . One day the sales woman had on a total boat shirt it turns out that they manufacture it for Jamestown Distibutors but can’t sell it to me direct. That made me do some more follow ups on the products. I was even happier when I saw the results on their interactive map of their antifouling in my area.
Barrier coat is unbelievably durable and goes on great.
Topside paint is very thin, but covers well. ( extremely light coats I sprayed it so I don’t know about roll and tip )
Total fair is a little firm I wouldn’t say it’s a feathered edge but it is trowelable working fast and in small batches. With that said I haven’t used any other brand if filler and yes I would use it again it sands great and same product no compatibly issues.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:51 am**

No progress on tabs. Still plan to, but not high on the priority list at the moment. I took a look at the Zipwake interceptors, think those would work well but just too expensive. Probably Bennet Bolts.

The anti-fouling line on my boat isn't straight, so that visually makes it look more bow high than it really is. But it is definitely light in front. There is no chance I will be adding ballast to the boat, but I do load it forward for bigger trips.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:05 am**

Matt Gent wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:51 am No progress on tabs. Still plan to, but not high on the priority list at the moment. I took a look at the Zipwake interceptors, think those would work well but just too expensive. Probably Bennet Bolts.

The anti-fouling line on my boat isn't straight, so that visually makes it look more bow high than it really is. But it is definitely light in front. There is no chance I will be adding ballast to the boat, but I do load it forward for bigger trips.

If you ballast; won't the splash rail come up out of the water and wouldn't you cut waves a bit nicer?

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:20 am**

The splash rail on there is essentially cosmetic - too small to do anything. I plan to remove it when I repaint.

Tabs will help the balance and be variable by conditions.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:25 am**

Matt Gent wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:20 am The splash rail on there is essentially cosmetic - too small to do anything. I plan to remove it when I repaint.

Tabs will help the balance and be variable by conditions.

Yeah. I suppose you can trim for varying loads or seas.

The tabs will run way down at slow speeds then and force the bow where lead would. Then at speed, you can just touch the water. I get it. Kindest regards. The boat is really lovely and I'd like a ride in it.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:28 am**

Sorry for the hijacking!

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:13 pm**

No worries I got a lot out of it,thank you both.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:46 pm**

Anyone is welcome to a ride; if you visit South Florida shoot me a note.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 7:54 am**

If you run the splash rails along the chine like they are on the plans and make them the same size as the plans
they work great . I am glad i did it that way and they work awesome.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 2:15 pm**

Matt and John you both have great boats and were the two that inspired me to start mine.
Not sure about the NV but the DE is pretty vague on spray rails.
Yes, I do see it on the profile picture.
Most down east boats that I’ve seen have split front and rear spray rails, sometimes one or the other sometimes both, some at different hieghts to each other. These to me act more as spray rails and not strakes.
I choose for a softer chine rather than a continuous sharp rail. This may be negligible but trying for a softer ride. I also debated about about a front spray rail and decided that could be added at a later date.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 3:22 pm**

The spray rails on Topwater's boat look great - well positioned, a little lift from chine area/orientation, and good size. I've seen up to 2X that size as well.

Frankly for spray on the DE its mostly a non-issue since you are inside the cabin; just shut and open windows as needed. The hull form naturally sheds huge water down-sea, and its uncomfortable to go too fast into a head sea.

Posted: **Thu Oct 31, 2019 8:08 am**

Chine rails are 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" in case you go that way.

Posted: **Sun Nov 10, 2019 8:49 am**

Milestone,
Two chain falls, two straps, two people, and two inches to spare in height.

It was slow, and it was successful we did our homework nothing damaged and no one got hurt.

Posted: **Sun Nov 10, 2019 9:29 am**

Nothing like a job done well.

Eager to see next steps.

Posted: **Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:12 pm**

Congratulations! It is always a big step to get in back of you, glad it all went well.

Posted: **Sun Nov 10, 2019 4:29 pm**

Thanks guys very happy. Hopefully I will get it set in a new cradle tomorrow and then try to remember how to fiberglass.

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2019 7:54 am**

Congrats Tom, great flip!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2019 1:10 pm**

Congratulations!! Well Done!!

Posted: **Sun Nov 17, 2019 5:45 pm**

All set in new cradle also dropped it down as low a possible , making it a little easier to get in and out of but lost all my under boat storage. Today was a clean up day managed to strip the frames and stringers out, you can see them hanging on shelf brackets on the wall. Ready to start fiberglassing again.

Posted: **Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:02 pm**

Looks huge! Good idea to put her as low as possible, given the million trips in and out of the hull to come. Gonna be a wonderful boat

Dougster

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:43 pm**

Hey guys long time, hope everyone is well. Still at it, update time.
Inside hull cleaned up, filleted, seams taped, fiberglassed bottom and sides.
Stringers installed frames being put in.

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:14 pm**

Nice

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:35 pm**

We need more boat pics these days. Thanks.

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:07 pm**

Nice!!! Agree, more photos!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:48 pm**

Needed to do a quick mock-up before I could cut frames D and F.
The cabin top is going to be built separate and bolted on like a truck cap, once it is outside of the garage.

Posted: **Mon Mar 30, 2020 11:12 pm**

I have the same issue with headroom. Cabin built lower than finale'.

Build on!

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:47 pm**

Getting to the fun part of laying out and designing.
Simply installing the cleats adds a whole new dimension to things.
Getting close to adding foam.

Installed additional cleat and glass for transom bracket, also working on framing around the transom door before installing last bulkhead.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:10 pm**

You are going to love it when you are able to put down some deck and have a flat place to walk on. Even if it is just have a loose piece of plywood to lay down for the short term.

Posted: **Fri Apr 17, 2020 7:51 pm**

Fuzz you are right walking on a deck is awesome so much more comfortable. Even if it is only short lived.
Unfortunately I misread the foam specs, and was thinking 8 sq ft per gallon not per kit (2 gallons ) so i only ordered half of what I really need.

Posted: **Sat Apr 18, 2020 5:34 am**

Wow! She is really coming along!

Posted: **Sat Apr 18, 2020 7:31 am**

Yeah, have been really putting in some hours.
As long as the supplies keep coming.
Stay positive and stay safe everyone.

Posted: **Sun Apr 19, 2020 9:33 am**

Dry fitted the benches
Laid out and cut cabin frame
And yes , got a bbc delivery , back to foaming this week.

Posted: **Sun Apr 19, 2020 10:18 am**

Nice work!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri May 01, 2020 8:30 am**

Okay it looks like I’m going backwards but there is forward progress.
Finished the foam, probably my least favorite part of the build cleaning that stuff up.

Glued in a stiffener at the bow,( glassed it over as well just not shown) will still add an additional backer plate on top of that for the bow cleat later. Glued in frame a”A” and cabin roof frame “B” . Working on cleaning up some below deck compartments before I can glue down the rear deck. Oh yeah the never ending task of milling and glueing cleats.

Mentally continually going over benches tanks access panels helm anchor locker windless wire and plumbing hardtop access....

Posted: **Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:25 am**

Hi guys, went back to work on June 1st so basically have had no boat building time in the last two weeks. Here are some progress photos of work that was done back in May.
Completed glassing in the sole and cut out some access panels for storage ( will work on hatches at later date).
OC thanks for the info on Gemlux I picked up some hinges on sale. (Still looking for latches though)

Cut out some ribs and incorporated support for wrap around bench seating.

I’m using Tempress hatches under the seating for access to the transom, all of the other hatches I’ll be making.

Glued up the decking around the cockpit and pilot house. Saw kerfed the bow decking and epoxied it on a form but the front is just rough cut and dry fitted.

Posted: **Wed Sep 09, 2020 12:57 pm**

I like the seat frames. That's going to be a nice touch.

Have you put any thought into how you are going to finish them off?

Did you do any additional bracing for the transom door cut out? How are you going to hinge and latch?

Posted: **Thu Sep 10, 2020 10:26 pm**

I got some 1x4 meranti decking for the seat bottoms and backs. I was planning on screwing them in place with ss screws and tee nuts, leaving them removable if necessary with a 1”+- spacing between slats for air flow and cleaning, with upholstered cushions on top.
I braced the door and stiffened the transom by upturning the stringers and making them one piece. Then surrounded the opening with a ladder type frame. (starboard piece is in, the bottom piece is not but will tie both sides together once all is taped in ). There are also floor panels with access holes to be taped in after painting the bilge. Then a shelf mid way up will be glassed in which sits on the cleat that my transom bracket will bolt thru.
Hinges and latch hardware haven’t been picked out yet but door will swing in to the starboard side with some type of hold open hardware.

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2020 6:46 am**

Nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2020 8:04 am**

Great idea on extending the stringer. Makes a great transom knee.

Thanks for the picture and explanation!

Posted: **Sat Sep 12, 2020 7:25 am**

A bit confused on the hatches in the sole. No gutters means they are wet lockers?

Posted: **Sun Sep 13, 2020 8:44 pm**

I was planning on having a gutter around each hatch, a gasket, and a compression latch.
There is no run off gutter between them or to carry water away . There are drains between the 3 compartments and into the bilge.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2020 4:24 pm**

Finally got the foredeck glued down. It doesn’t look much different than when I dry fit it a few months ago , lol, but there sure is a lot of work that goes into that anchor locker.

It’s probably overkill but I primed and painted the inside of the anchor locker up to the floor , filled it with buoyancy foam, glassed in the floor then primed and bilge painted the inside of the anchor locker. Drilled, over filled and redrilled for bow cleat and drain hole.

There’s so much hardware that goes on the bow I doubled the entire thickness as well as a couple of additional cleats.

In the mean time in between paint drying I bent the cabin top. I wanted it to look like wooden slats inside so I saw kerfed it, epoxied the grooves and then tooled them slightly concave with a putty knife to make them subtly stand out. It will be simply painted out white inside but I’ll know they’re there.

Working on the cabin sides next.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2020 7:49 pm**

coming along nicely! the cabin roof will have nice texture!

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 8:00 am**

Hey guys hope everyone has been well. It’s been quite a while so here’s a six month update.
The cabin sides and top are in.

Made up some chase tubes and glassed them in through the gas tank compartment. Drilled for electric and mechanicals down both side and dry fit chase tubes.

The drop edge on the shelf covers the chase tubes I will also add 6” combing on the top

Mock up of hard top.

Decided that I could pre fab the hard top sides, front, back and top.

Top and bottom shoe and front shoe post formed will sit on a reference cleat and get bolted down later.

Hardtop all knocked down until later.

A little bouncing around here working on back seating and fitting some hardware.

That’s it for now going to work on the helm next ! Thanks guys

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 8:08 am**

Exceptional progress and workmanship! Great detail on the bench seat nosing and return.

What kind of paint did you use for inside the anchor locker?

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 8:25 am**

Thanks Dan you don’t think you’ve gotten much done daily until you go back and look at some pictures of your progress.
I’m using Totalboat products everything from fairing to topcoat to eliminate any compatibility issues. So far very been happy with everything. The anchor and bilge are a two part barrier coat primer and then bilge paint.

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 8:26 am**

Is the cabin pre-fabbed because you can't get out of the building?

The work on the cabin looks great.

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 9:54 am**

I really like those slatted seats — may have to steal that idea! Overall a really great build; thanks for all the detailed pictures.

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:53 am**

Great progress!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:02 pm**

Some outstanding work right there! Love the look of the foredeck and house

Posted: **Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:03 pm**

Very nice. Love the slatted seats. Built some for my deck and they have lasted for many years.

Tom

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