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Hello to all builders

I'm starting the build of a customized C17 with an open layout and a center console. I chose this plan because I wanted an offshore-capable small fishing boat, easy to launch single handed. It will be powered with a 50hp 4 stroke Yamaha.

It may be named "Fair Enough", to remind me that I have to stop fairing and go fishing instead... I'm not after a boat show finish, more a work boat, as neat as possible compatible with a short build time frame (I hope to finish it this year for next spring launch).

For plywood, I ended up buying full okoume marine in 8mm and 10mm. I can't find 5 plies 6mm marine around here, 8mm is the thinnest 5 plies available, so it will do for the hull sides and bottom. 10mm will substitute for 9 and 12mm, a little too thin for the sole so I'll add some supports between frames because the central span is quite large.

I had to redo all the nesting because the plywood sheets are much larger than specified (310x150cm), but the benefit is that all long panels fit in 2 sheets instead of 3. I added the seats and console in the nesting as well so all is cut from the same plywood.

Otherwise it will be foam-filled, with chase tubes to the console, and above-deck 42 liters plastic fuel tank in the console. Minimal instrumentation (a GPS/sounder and that's about it), a swim ladder, a kicker bracket just in case, a bimini top.

I have cut the parts in my small garage, I'll move to a larger workshop and intend to start the gluing and assembly shortly, waiting for temperature to be consistently above 15°C, which should happen soon hopefully.

First pictures below, to be continued.

Plywood :



Panels :





Frames with rod holders :



Frames sides are doubled



Console back and front, with seat and space for the fuel tank





Building frame on wheels

Congrats Olivier,

The only caution I will give you is venting the fuel tank is hard to do properly with the fuel in the cc. The proper venting is always, always overboard. So, if the boat is inspected, it would be required to vent all the way to the side. This is achievable by lowering the tank into the hull, but not a great idea for the vent line to have any low spots either, so it is a real difficult challenge.

Some of our US builders do not care because they are not getting inspected. As you are in France, I am only looking out for you.

Fuel landing in the bilge, if spilled is also bad. If I were building this boat, I would not put the fuel in the cc because I would not want to smell fuel vapors or worry about my friend smoking by the vent.

All the best, we will help you in anyway we can and look out for anything we see going wrong. Like a friendly QA team.

Dan

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 19, 2023 3:05 pm
I would not put the fuel in the cc because I would not want to smell fuel vapors or worry about my friend smoking by the vent.

You let people smoke on your boat? That action has a walk-the-plank punishment on my boat.


All the best for the build Olivier. Looks like you are off to a good start.

Thanks Dan, I welcome any help or comment.

Regarding the tank I'll double check the venting regulation but venting the console in the cockpit appears sufficient here for an open boat, at least it is on my current commercial RIB which uses the same principle of plastic tank in the console, without any vent or filling device, and it seems to have passed all needed certifications...

Yes this will also be a non smoking boat

To each, but I would not want fuel vapors in the cockpit...

Most boats this size would have portable tanks and people wouldn't give that a second thought even though they vent and would often be filled in the cockpit. I think the console is really one of the few viable options for a built in tank in a small boat. Certainly some boats come from the factory that way, and I have never had an issue with smelling fuel in my FS17. Being near the center also means trim doesn't change much with fuel level

All that said, I would be very careful to separate the tank and hoses from any electronics in the console. It's safe because an open CC has a lot of ventilation, if vapors build up inside your console in a space with any chance of spark that would be dangerous.

Congrats Oliver. Excellent choice on the open C17. You wont be disappointed. I have my gas tank in the console seat....19 gal....which as it turns out is larger than my 60 hp Yamaha needs for all day and more.... its vented and sealed from the upper console and wiring. Boat is going on ten years old...no problems or ever any noticeable fumes......I would not hesitate to do it that way again. My boat was inspected before being registered.
Looking forward to watching as you go forward.

Progressing, the jig is built and I have started assembling the transom and stringers

I see what could be two errors in cutting out the notches for the stringers. First it looks like you cut out notches in the transom, there should not be any there as the transom pushes against the stringers and you tape the stringers to the transom. Second, you have not cut any notches in the second panel back or mold B. There needs to be notches there for the stringers to run forward to mold A.

Tom

Tom,

Thanks but I believe this is incorrect. On the plan the stringers end right at the back of frame B and don't cross it to frame A (which is way above the sole anyway). Besides I have not cut notches in the transom, what you see on the jig is Frame E, the transom is not mounted yet.

But thanks for the close examination, I'm sure there will be mistakes, there has been already.

OlivierP wrote: ↑Fri Mar 24, 2023 4:02 am Tom,

Thanks but I believe this is incorrect. On the plan the stringers end right at the back of frame B and don't cross it to frame A (which is way above the sole anyway). Besides I have not cut notches in the transom, what you see on the jig is Frame E, the transom is not mounted yet.

But thanks for the close examination, I'm sure there will be mistakes, there has been already.

Good enough just going on memory and did not realize you did not have the transom mounted. Carry on with the good work. Tom

Progressing, slowly. Busy assembling the stringers, transom, bottom panels. Made also some good progress on the console and pilot seat. The temperature is still low, gluing is only possible for a couple of hours in the afternoon.

Good progress!!! Jeff

Dry fitting the motor well sides and transom. They fit

That looks right! Take your time at this stage to check everything for square, for alignment, hook or hog in the aft section, etc. Take diagonal measurements, pull string, use a laser, whatever you have available, this is your easiest time to get things right or wrong.

Looks clean and fair!

May be too late, but something that I believe is worth mentioning.

One thing I would have differently on my C19, would have been to delay cutting out for the motor until I had a motor in hand. Imagine prepping the transom or a 20" shaft motor, and then finding a deal on a 25. Also, after building up glass on top of the clamping board, and shaping the "v" at the bottom of the hull, I wound up with about 21" from the top of the clamp to the keel. While mounting the outboard this was enough for us to question whether or not the motor will be too high. We will soon find out...

Maybe the best case is prepping for a 25" shaft, but allowing enough meat to cut it out further if required.

Thanks to all.

Regarding the motor, I have it already, a 50hp Yam on my RIB that I'll transfer in due time, so dimensions should be ok. I have even already drilled the mounting holes.

I'll double check alignment. I have used a laser when mounting the jig but nothing is perfect. I have a couple more days before assembly because I intend to pre-drill the transom for the swim ladder and the kicker bracket, easier when the transom is laying flat and not yet painted.

I'm progressing, slowly, to get the plywood to bend and take shape. I'm using thicker plywood than specified and it's very reluctant to strong bending... getting there, with patience. I don't know if spot welding with epoxy will be strong enough to hold everything together when I remove the stitches, there's so much tension, I may need to tape some places at the bow with small pieces of tape. We'll see, I'll dry fit the upper side panels first.

You may notice that the side panels overlap the bottom. As discussed in a previous thread, I have decided to include built-in reverse chines filled with epoxy (like the OB15), as I had enough plywood available in the new nesting, the lower side panels were extended by 1 inch for that purpose. I thought I could still cut them down if I didn't like the result but it looks good and I'm keeping them.

Stiches removed, sanded, upper panel dry fitted.

Next step, fill stitching holes and gaps, build reverse chines, glue the upper panels.

I was going to recommend that you glass the bottom before gluing the upper side panels. Easier to reach.

I'd run the bottom glass to the panel overlap, and cover with a fillet there. Easier to fair the transition.

It's also a good time to precut the rubrail pieces before gluing on the upper side. You can trace the outline, cut and check for fit on the shop floor. Obviously don't glue them until the panel is on.

Good points, thanks, access is indeed an issue, but I thought it would be better to run the tapes in one piece over the bottom and both side panels, especially at the bow - or would you tape the upper panel separately ?

Structurally speaking it doesn’t matter either way. Tapes with an overlap are strong as one continued tape.

One thing I see a problem with is the taping of the chine seams with tape sine you left the sides extended. Hou are you going to get 2 or 3 layers of tape offset on the hull and side.

Tom

I think the plan is to fill before rounding to 13mm and glassing over. One trick I learned is that the first layer of tape tends to lay better if you put down some slightly cabosil thickened epoxy underneath first.

Yes I'm filling the chine flats with scrap plywood pieces, epoxy and wood flour, I'll round the edges, tape and glass over them.

Looks ugly right now, but I was in the middle of gluing scrap plywood. It will be flat eventually, as it should be for chine flats...

OlivierP wrote: ↑Fri Apr 14, 2023 2:08 pm Yes I'm filling the chine flats with scrap plywood pieces, epoxy and wood flour, I'll round the edges, tape and glass over them.

Looks ugly right now, but I was in the middle of gluing scrap plywood. It will be flat eventually, as it should be for chine flats...

My man with a plan! Great way to do that!

Thanks Dan.

More filling of the chine flats, still not flat but getting closer. They go all the way to the front.

Assuming that new layers of fill are going on before the old fully cures, I'd put some microballoons in the last to help the sanding process before you glass. Alternatively, a grinder with 24grit will do it.

Thanks Oneway, I managed to sand what I needed with 40 grit.

Now the tape is on the bottom, transom and chines. It went well around the chine flats after rounding the edge.

Also some progress on the console.

The project will be on hold for a week as I go fishing...

Back to work, the bottom is glassed and the upper side panels are glued. Hull complete ! Well, still a long way ahead.

Looking at the profile after gluing the side panels, it seems that I have some droop at the bow. Maybe the thicker panels did not bend exactly as expected. I'll probably try to pull the bow back to see if it helps before installing the rub rails, or add a spreader close to the bow, otherwise the droop may become permanent. Not a deal breaker but I'd rather avoid it. Any advice welcome. Thanks

Not sure what you are referring to since I see that you have all the panels filleted and laminated. Please provide some pictures for reference if you can.
thanks,
Reid

Thanks, I'll take a picture when I go back to the workshop, likely Saturday. Everything is glued, but the tip of the bow droops (actually lifts, since it's upside down...) by a few centimeters when seen from the side. Maybe the panels aren't spread enough towards the front, between the bow and frame A. You can't see that from the current pictures.

This pops up a lot in the C series boats. 17, 19 and 21.

I wasn’t partial to the look and flattened it out after the flip, before sticking the deck on top of the frames. Shaving out the hump left some skinny sections of rub rail, but I was able to fill these to a batten which made it all go away.

Regrettably, I didn’t correct it where it shows on the bottom edge of the upper panel. Maybe next winter.

Point being, it’s there, but you can make it go away.

Like Dan said this really happens a lot if you do not pay attention and pull the panels down hard when stitching. Follow his lead and you can fix it.

Tom

Found a pic of the correction. From October 2021.

I discovered mine after flipping, and the rubrail was on.

I glued the backing block for the cleat on top rather than under the front panel. This somewhat hides the droop. I may eventually bolt a bow roller on it.

Thanks to all, it's about similar to what Dan shows. I'll probably fix what remains after the flip the same way.

I think I'll pre-cut some extension pieces for under the last meter or 2 of the rub rail at the front, before mounting the rail, to be ready to extend it if I have to cut it down. It also means that I won't paint the sides before the flip as I initially planned, probably only the bottom and maybe the lower side panels

This is the droop at the bow



I've pre-cut rub rail extensions to fix it after the flip.



Otherwise, installed the keel and built dams to sharpen the edges of the last 2 meters of the sides and the transom



And busy glassing the console

Just remember after sharpening the edges you will need to round them slightly say a 1/16" - 1/8" so the paint will hold. It can create a crack on a sharp corner. Tom

Yes that's right, currently edges are so sharp they would cut



Started filling the bottom with fairing mix. I'll add graphite layers next.



I'm leaving the topsides raw, as specified in the plans, the plywood is of sufficient quality.

After 3 layers of fairing and sanding, I'm adding graphite to the bottom.

The project will be on hold for another week as I go fishing again.

Nice. Tom

I managed to put one more coat of graphite before leaving. Still to be faired but it's starting to shine !

I have planned to paint everything, but I'm still wondering if I shouldn't leave the bottom with bare epoxy/graphite... it's what I did on my GF14 and it's working very well, the bottom is tough and never sees the light anyway, so no UV problem... did anyone try that too ?





Otherwise the console is fully glassed, fairing next.

You will get a slow degradation of the epoxy on the bottom due to reflected light. If stored out of the sun, this could take decades. If going just with an epoxy coat above the waterline, use a couple extra coats. I put on a light glass, which is not really much more epoxy, but a lot of extra sanding and fairing.

No need to cover the graphite it will last forever. There are boats that are 15 years old that still have bare graphite bottoms. Tom

After much deliberation, I'll stick to the original plan and shall paint everything.

Back at it, installed the rub rail, more fairing and sanding, and a last coat of epoxy. Looks like orange peel from an angle but will smoothen with sanding.

Then, painting will start. 2/3 coats of 2 parts primer, then 2/3 coats of 2 parts polyurethane.

Prime time !







2 layers on the bottom and transom, 1 on the sides for now.

The extension on the transom is a support for the sounder transducer, I didn't want to screw it directly in the transom as it's under the waterline.

Also preparing the frames for deck hardware and hatches.



The flip is scheduled Wednesday next week (7th June), I plan to to finish the top coats this week.

Great plan and forethought for the transducer mount! Looks great!

Top coat#1 (Mauritius Blue)

Man! that feels good, doesn't it?

I like that color. What is the topside color going to be?

Very nice color. Tom

Thanks guys. The top (rub rail, deck, console...) will be off white (Dover white ?). There will be cream non-slip paint on the sole. Very classic colors, but I'm fine with classic on a Classic...

That will be glamorous. Like a dark navy suit and a cream shirt. Classic.

Top coat #2. I see a #3 coming. The surface is less smooth than I was used to with that paint (International Perfection) on my previous builds, maybe it's the rollers that leave very tiny bubbles on the surface. I'll probably try a different roller for coat #3.

You're talking the black art of finish painting! Could be the roller texture, or amount and type of thinners . . . if the paint is not leveling out before it sets, then it won't be smooth.

I remember years ago I was into building plastic airplane models and before I bought an airbrush I brush painted, with predictable results- except this one time when all the stars aligned and I got this super shiny and flawlessly smooth 747 airliner perfectly done. It wasn't the brush, it was the consistency of the paint that was correct for the temperature and humidity at the time I was painting.

Do you have a practice board to check the paint behavior before you start on the hull?

Ultimately, it does look nice and once it's flipped and in the water it will still look beautiful.

1. the fish don't care.
2. If you don't care, then who else has a right to an opinion?
3. If #2 is "no one" then anyone that complains is shark food.

That said, my unfortunate experience is that if you want a "smooth finish" you are not going to like my next couple of sentences.

To make that smooth you need to sand the texture out. FG1K went crazy chasing a series of paint issues looking for good roll and tip finishes. Everytime there was a problem, the only solution was to erase it, not cover it. That means sand it off. Sorry.

As to the smoothness question, pee wee has it. the bubbles are from surface adhesion to the roller or air bubbles from mixing/pouring paint. orange peel is due to overly thick paint not smoothing which is partially due to surface tension with the roller. answer to both is thinning paint with proper thinning agents and slowing flashtime to allow for proper leveling.

Where pee wee has it wrong is "black art"... it's more "multiple deals with the devil followed with more deals with the devil topped with deals with the devil". If you can find a way do spray, you won't hate making that transition. it reduces the devil deals to 2 layers.

Thanks, that's more or less what I thought, I can't sell my soul to the devil because it's sold out already, so I'll try sanding, different rollers, and thinning. I guess I was just lucky on the previous builds...

An alternative is a vinyl boat wrap. Any colour you like, and any design you like. No worries about orange peel or anything.

Ok that's it, 3rd coat with different roller and a little thinner. It went better, still not perfect but I'll live with it, it's "fair enough"...

Next step is the flip next week.

Looks good guy!!! Time to flip her and get the insides built. Tom

When you paint dark without post curing; the sun will hit it some hot day and modify all the glass and you'll emd up repainting it someday..

Bubbles on the surface are ~usually~ caused by too deep a roller nap or foam rollers with porous surfaces.

It is hard to paint dark colors. They show much..

Painting is hard..

In this case the main culprit for bubbles seems to be the new rollers with short hairs. I reverted to the last of my old rollers for the last coat and it went better. Nowhere close to a professional finish, but I knew that. Anyway what's done is done and it's good enough now. And yes I'll repaint some day, I expect that too.

Flipped ! It went well, the hull is so light, at 6 it was a piece of cake. It's now on its trailer.

I have decided to pre-glue the stringers from underneath to provide more support for the bottom on the trailer as I didn't build a specific support for the hull after the flip. I'll fiberglass between stringers.

The bow droop is still quite pronounced but will bet fixed as planned.

I can understand why you'd be tempted to install the stringers now for more support, but if it were me I'd shim and support from underneath as much as it takes, so I wouldn't have to fiberglass around those stringers.

Nice to have lots of helping hands when you need them. Boat looks really nice. You are doing a good job on it.

Yes it's good to have a team when you need it ! With lots of champagne and beer of course.

To pee wee : gluing the stringers was done after careful consideration of pros and cons, but I'm glad I did, the stringers are perfectly in place already and strengthen the hull as I walk inside. I'll lay the glass in 4 half width rolls instead of 2 full width. Note that I could lay a full width in the center but I prefer to respect the lamination schedule and keep an overlap on the keel.

By the way: first step in the hull, feels like a first step on the moon !

I fixed the sheer line and removed the bow droop today. Took a couple of hours but I'm happy with the result so far.

Before



After



Rub rail extension glued



Much happier with the sheer now

I have a pet peeve in low bows..

Good going..

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 09, 2023 6:15 pm I have a pet peeve in low bows..

Good going..

Me, too! Looks great now.

I glassed my inside in boxes formed between stringers and two frames. I prefered it, mainly for the reason that I could do a box every day. I don't believe that there's a major loss of strength, just make sure to have good fillets and sufficient glass on the stringer hull transition.

OlivierP wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2023 1:35 pm Yes it's good to have a team when you need it ! With lots of champagne and beer of course.

To pee wee : gluing the stringers was done after careful consideration of pros and cons, but I'm glad I did, the stringers are perfectly in place already and strengthen the hull as I walk inside. I'll lay the glass in 4 half width rolls instead of 2 full width. Note that I could lay a full width in the center but I prefer to respect the lamination schedule and keep an overlap on the keel.

By the way: first step in the hull, feels like a first step on the moon !

D

Did you fasten the stingers wood on wood or leave a gap for the epoxy to flow under the stingers. If you did wood on wood you have a hard spot that will wear instead of an wood to epxoy to wood joint which would be stronger and more flexible. A gap of 1/8 to 3/16 is needed to prevent wood on wood wear as in all stich and glue joinery.

Tom

Tom, I think the joint is at least 99% epoxy, since the stringers are flat and the hull bottom inclined there is a large triangular gap anyway, fully filled with epoxy.

Nothing spectacular but steady progress this week, the hull is completely filleted and taped, with 2 or 3 layers of tape where needed, and the first of the 4 pieces of fiberglass is glued on the bottom and up the stringer.

Next week, I intend to finish glassing and install the bulkheads. Then I'll move the boat to my house by the sea, to complete it over the summer.

In total, that's 9 layers of 450g/m2 biax on the keel, that will be tough as an icebreaker !

Looks very clean! The stretch of between the hull and the underside of the sole may be the least fun part of the process. I found it helpful to keep a level and winding sticks on top of the stringers and bulkheads to ensure the tops of all stayed relatively planer.

At one brief moment, I lamented not glassing the faces of stringers and bulkheads before tabbing in place, but soon got over that. Would probably do it on the next one.

Keep it going!

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 10, 2023 9:02 pm
Did you fasten the stingers wood on wood or leave a gap for the epoxy to flow under the stingers. If you did wood on wood you have a hard spot that will wear instead of a wood to epoxy to wood joint which would be stronger and more flexible.

I know this to be true, and have abided by it in my build, but I don’t understand it. Why would wood to wood be any harder than wood to cured epoxy/wood ‘glue’?

Would love to understand it rather than just doing it because “they said so”.

Jbo

Dan, thanks, yes keeping the sole level is one of the next challenges. At least I know the stringers are level so I shouldn't be too far off. The sole will be built in sections between frames, and glassed with 200g cloth.

Not sure about the benefit of glassing the frames, I have doubled (most of) them already so they're 20mm thick now, and they will be set to the hull with biax tape. But for abrasion / shock resistance it might help ?

jbo_c wrote: ↑Fri Jun 16, 2023 4:08 pm

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 10, 2023 9:02 pm
Did you fasten the stingers wood on wood or leave a gap for the epoxy to flow under the stingers. If you did wood on wood you have a hard spot that will wear instead of a wood to epoxy to wood joint which would be stronger and more flexible.

I know this to be true, and have abided by it in my build, but I don’t understand it. Why would wood to wood be any harder than wood to cured epoxy/wood ‘glue’?

Would love to understand it rather than just doing it because “they said so”.

Jbo

Without putty in the joint the hull panels are unlikely to meet the stringer or frame evenly everywhere. The slamming forces might become concentrated on just one area of the hull that pushes more strongly against the much stiffer stringer. This is not good. With putty in between, cured into place you know that this will not happen. It's ok if they touch in places if there's no pressure applied, but if you have a gap, then you know that the loads will not be concentrated.

In larger boats (especially foam core) the stringers or frames are lifted off the hull with a foam pad, so that the tabbing take all of the loads. This is the ideal, but absolutely not required for boats of this size.

viewtopic.php?p=47547&hilit=hardspot#p47547

OlivierP wrote: ↑Fri Jun 16, 2023 4:19 pm Dan, thanks, yes keeping the sole level is one of the next challenges. At least I know the stringers are level so I shouldn't be too far off. The sole will be built in sections between frames, and glassed with 200g cloth.

Not sure about the benefit of glassing the frames, I have doubled (most of) them already so they're 20mm thick now, and they will be set to the hull with biax tape. But for abrasion / shock resistance it might help ?

No need to glass the frames aside from the tabbing, unless at a place where there will be the possibility of damage.

The Sole is structural. You need to have solid plywood butt blocks underneath adjoining sections. If your intention is to build level with the tops of the frames then each piece must be well secured and cleated in. I made my sole from 9mm ply glassed both sides with 400g.

Thanks, OneWay.

That makes sense.

Jbo

As I recall the frames only require coating with epoxy. If you want add fiberglass fibers to make a sturdier coating.

Tom

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 17, 2023 3:51 pm As I recall the frames only require coating with epoxy. If you want add fiberglass fibers to make a sturdier coating.

Tom

I know Jacques maintained that there was no need to fiberglass everything, and some designs don't even require the whole hull to be covered in fiberglass. Where the strength of the fiberglass is not needed, it becomes an issue of minimizing weight but still protecting the wood. I've seen more than a couple experienced builders that ended up with problems in areas that hadn't been covered in glass, and resolved to glass everything in their future build. Three coats of neat epoxy (paying extra attention to plywood edges) covered in paint is touted as adequate protection over quality okoume or maranti marine plywood, but is it really?

pee wee I would advocate only coating with epoxy in areas that never see sunlight. Otherwise, it gets fiberglass, epoxy and paint. Tom

Bottom fully glassed. Not the funniest task, I'm glad this is over. I'll start with the bulkheads.

Bulkheads dry-fitted, ready for gluing, that will be for tomorrow. The motorwell sides will be resized too.

Nice clean work. Wish I was that disciplined.

Jbo

It took 3 days, but all bulkheads are glued. I still have to fine tune the fillets and tape them, but all frames are in place.

Next week I'll move the boat to its final destination, my house on the coast of Brittany, and I'll transfer the workshop to complete the build there.

That is already a fine looking boat. Very neat and precise build. I'll echo an earlier post and say that I wish I worked so clean. I'm almost at the same point. 1/2 way through glassing the interior and preparing to fit bulkheads.

Looking forward to seein the build progress. Good luck with moving the boat and workshop!

Mick

Thanks Jbo and Mick for the kind comments. It sure does not look so clean up close, but fair enough...

Good luck for your own projects.

She looks great and is about as strong as she will get. Should be no problem trailering to Brittany. You are building a fine C17

Tom

Thanks Tom

Ready for departure



New home by the sea - as I suspected, I need to lower the wind screen by about 1'' to fit under the car port. 2 bolts that stick below the roof at the entrance of the car port... No big deal.

Nice C17 build to date, and congrats on the seamless move - they don't just happen.

Thanks Glossieblack ! Just to let you know, I'm following your Australian adventures with nostalgia, having lived there for 2 years and absolutely loving Australia.

OlivierP wrote: ↑Thu Jun 29, 2023 4:55 am Thanks Glossieblack ! Just to let you know, I'm following your Australian adventures with nostalgia, having lived there for 2 years and absolutely loving Australia.

Thanks for letting me know.

And please comment on my Australian adventure posts every now and again, as you have a unique perspective.

I resumed the project this week. First taped all frames and bulkheads, quite a lot of work, I glassed the anchor well for extra protection, and finally I started working on the cockpit drains and chase tubes. Took some thinking before drilling 40mm holes in the transom and 80mm is the frames...

I'll install 2 master 80mm chase tubes to port and starboard, with small flexible inner tubes as required. Only dry-fitted at this stage, I'll finish next week. All electrical systems to port, fuel and controls to starboard. The battery will be in the aft port locker.

I'm using a 40mm fiberglass-epoxy tube for the cockpit drains. It will be cut to fit.

Good looking tape job, better than mine. And yes, it's old fashioned bend over wear out the back work!

Dougster

Most of the cockpit cleats are installed. Quite a task, and I only have 2 stringers!

I've built a front desk support out of 25x50mm oak, should be plenty strong.

The cockpit drains were cut flush to the transom and the cockpit bulkhead, and epoxy glued. I have added a third central drain going straight to the bilge, so I'll have the option of draining to the transom or to the bilge.

Good progress!!! Jeff

Testing the cockpit drains. As expected, they're almost flush with the sole, 2-3mm recessed, so they should trap all water in the cockpit. I'm happy with fiberglass-epoxy tubes, they can be glued exactly where desired without overhang.

Looks good. Tom

Today I cut and adjusted 3 sole panels, and cut the holes for the chase tubes, after testing on a template

Nice work, especially getting things to fit like you have. Very neat. Looks like you are enjoying good ventilation in your work area, too.

Thanks Hank, yes it's a real pleasure to work outside under cover

More cleats, this time along the sheer for the gunwales. Each cut to shape because the hull has a different angle in each section... lots of slits to fit the curves of the sheer. Only half glued so far, I'm running out of clamps.

The chase tubes are glued, I'll soon start filling the compartments with foam and gluing the soles. I'm prepping them with epoxy on the underside.

Where is the tube for the gas line it needs to have its own separate tube for safety, unless you are putting in the stern. Tom

The concept here may be unconventional.

I have used large diameter tubes to run individual lines (including fuel) through separate flexible tubes (like those used to route electrical cables through walls or gardens) for isolation inside the main tubes.

For extra safety, all electricals will run to port, fuel and controls to starboard. Fuel will be separated from controls by individual sub-tubes inside the master starboard tube.

You could say that the conventional chase tubes are the sub-tubes, the master tubes are tunnels shared by the chase tubes.

Slow progress. More sheer battens, chase tubes completed, motor well bulkhead dry fitted.

First compartment foamed. I used a dummy sole, cut in the corners and covered with pvc, and sat on it to control the expansion of the foam towards the corners. As a result I have a foam pack almost flat with little to cut.

Looks like you dialed in just the right amount of foam to fill up the area you wanted to foam. Great job!

Very well done---I never managed it that well.

Dougster

Thanks, yes it works, but in retrospect and looking at how much foam I needed I'll only use this process for the complex bow volume but not everywhere. The reason is that the sole directs but also blocks some of the foam expansion, and as a result you may end up with a denser foam and heavier compartments than if you let the foam expand fully and cut the excess.

3 out of 4 sections foamed/decked

Completed the foaming and glued the last piece of sole. Cut and dry fitted the front and rear decks. Built a dam filled with epoxy around the chase tubes, probably overkill but 100% waterproof !

Good progress!!! Jeff

Well thought through and clean work.

Slow progress as many other things are going on.

The sole has been completed and covered with biax, the console and pilot seat are installed. They will be taped next. Then, gunwales and front seats to be built.

Bad news, I have to buy more epoxy (but who doesn't?)

I managed to cut 5 meters long battens in one piece, I'm installing them to support the gunwales

Good progress!!! Jeff

Looking good!! Tom

Gunwales cut and installed (dry fitting pictures, but glued afterwards)

Gunwales completed; inwales will be added. I made them wide (23cm, 9'') for safety.



Front benches and lockers built and dry fitted, to be tailored and glued

Very nice work! I too like them wide, gunnels that is

Looking nice Tom

Thanks guys !

Cut the inwales and started to glue them, it takes a lot of clamps so one side at a time.

Cut 5m battens to double and reinforce the inwales

Hi all

After a month of interruption due to a motorbike "tour de France" with friends, I'm back at work.

I have completed the inwales, rounded all corners and filleted the edges.





I have also finished building the front benches and lockers.



Actually there is no more part to build and install, except closing the rear decks which are already cut and dry fitted, so the construction itself is essentially finished. Feels good ! Now it's time for fairing, installing hardware, painting, then transferring the motor from the donor boat (my RIB). Hope to finish before winter as planned.

I'm also considering installing a keel guard.

Nice work!! Jeff

That's it, I have finished preparing the hull for painting, and I started priming the deck today (no pictures of the paint yet).

I have installed the rear decks, built a battery support in the aft port locker, a support and evacuation for the bilge pump, drilled holes for the controls in the console and the motor well, and drilled-filled-drilled hundreds of holes for the deck hardware. I thought it would be good enough and time to paint before winter comes.

That looks really good, nice progress!

I see the console wind screen frame is about even with the bottom of the overhead frame, careful measuring on your part?

Well, I though I had carefully measured, but I had measured the first frame and had not realized that the following were slightly lower, so I had to shave a couple of centimeters off the windscreen frames... no big deal.

Deck (including all lockers, a pain in the neck...) fully primed now.

Well, we've been hit by storm after storm on the west coast of France lately, with winds gusting to 150km/h, so it has been impossible to progress with painting as the boat is outside under a car port. Finally a calm day today and I managed to put top coat on the deck, but I think that's it for this year.

I'll resume the project next spring with a final top coat, non slip paint on the sole, mounting the motor and deck equipment, and launch.

So let's call it a year.

All the best to all.

Looks good.

I hate stopping for the year. I think I have a week or so left, unless we have a warm spell between now and Christmas.

Jbo

Looks good!! Jeff

Looks good!!

I'll bet you could gain a little space by letting air out of the tires getting out.

Yes I could, thanks, but I'm ok now, I just have to lower the support wheel of the trailer at the hook. A tight fit for sure.

After a few weeks of drying, I thought that the top coat was good enough, only the transom will need touch ups. So I had a go at installing most of the deck hardware.

Your boat looks awesome. Love the layout particularly at the bow of the lockers.
My only comment would be that you will get lots of wear on your gunwales/ paintwork from the ropes if you leave those front side cleats as they are; perhaps mount them on a sacrificial piece of wood, or a small piece of stainless plate under them that contours round the side of the gunwale a little.

Tom

Thanks for the kind comments, and for the suggestion. You're right, the gunwale paint is somewhat exposed around the cleats and more protection would be useful. I doesn't worry me too much for now because the boat won't rest at the dock but will be launched from the trailer, so the cleats will see very little use, only for a few minutes while boarding / landing. I'm also about to add a rubber rail around the rubrails.

Back at work and getting closer to the finish line. The motor will be installed on Wednesday, along with the remaining controls.

In the meantime I have installed the rub rail (not finished yet), the swim ladder, the bilge pump and bilge drain, the pilot seat, the steering and a few other things, and touched up the hull paint where needed. It' too cold to glue the keel guard so that will wait.

Nice!!! Jeff

She sure looks pretty with some jewelry on!

Getting there ! Can't finish today unfortunately, the wiring of the control handle is 1m too short, I have to wait a couple of days for an extension. But everything else is on.

Looks more and more like a boat.

I have the name, awaiting the stickers...

Nice!! Jeff

What an awesome build. Thanks for sharing. I bet she'll fly with that 50 on her!

Thanks Cape Man, Jeff and Pee wee, much appreciated. I'm impatient to see how she handles at sea, we should find out pretty soon now.

Back at home with motor and equipment mounted and tested.

I have applied 3 layers of non-slip paint on the sole. Now it has to dry before launch.

Fingers crossed for the big day. Looking forward to seeing photos of her in the water!

Good luck!

Mick

Launched !

The launch was very easy, single handed from the trailer and back.

She floats in hardly any water empty, the scuppers are way above the waterline, which is what I expected, I have raised the sole by 3.5 cm.

She handled perfectly at sea for this first hour of tests, felt very stable and confident and cut through waves quite well, not a drop of water in the cockpit so far. I like how she behaves at moderate speed (around 15kts) in wavy seas where she can handle whatever comes.

I have tested the top speed on flat water in an inlet, around 27kts with the 50 Yam, which is fine and more than I need, I either sail in the open sea with chop and waves so below 20kts, or in the Gulf of Morbihan where the speed limit is 10kts. Top speed was at 5800 rpm, which is just right, so the stock prop pitch is ok by chance.

I just need to install the keel shield and the bimini, and go fishing !

Awesome!!!!!

Congratulations! Felicitation! She's beautiful and doing what you want!

Congratulations!!! Deserved reward for all the hard work.

Many thanks to all.

Here it is with the name stickers and the bimini.

For the name, the boat was built and will be based in Arzon, Britanny. I just hope a certain brand has a sense of humor...

I installed a short bimini to cover the helm station and leave the fishing decks uncovered.

Congratulations!!! Jeff

I did some post-launch calculations to confirm the specs, for anyone interested in the C17

- my boat weighs around 580kg (1300lbs) fully equipped, with motor, battery, full tank, all equipment, but no crew. This is what I had estimated and is confirmed by the waterline level at launch. The hull alone weighs around 380kg, vs 280kg in the plans. Differences, for about 1/4 each : more epoxy, thicker plywood (8mm vs 6), floatation foam, deck equipment. Fiberglass just as specified, I didn't go the "glass everything" route to avoid more weight.

- I have raised the sole by 3,5 cm (1.4") vs plans. This puts the sole 5cm (2") above the water with no crew, and at water level at 900kg, or 2000lbs, vs the 1500lbs DWL in the plans. That leaves 320kg (a crew of 4 , or 3 + lots of beer), before the sole reaches water level. So the boat is self bailing and the scuppers can be left open at all times with a crew of 1 or 2 (I'll rely on the bilge pump above 3), which is what I was looking for for fishing. I think raising the sole by 2" would still work, the C17 can take it and remains very safe with its high freeboard.

Great work!!!

Sweet boat

First blood on the deck, she's officially a fishing boat !

Congratulations! Beautiful lines, beutiful boat, beutiful build.

Happy fishing!

Mick

Congratulations on the launch! Beautiful results, great job. May she live long and carry you safely.

Thanks forgeandfruition, Mick and Hank. So far she's been just what I wished for. I wish I could thank Jacques again for his great designs.

Nice work!

Beautiful boat Olivier, hope you enjoy her for many years to come. Tom

Thanks Tom, and I take this opportunity to thank again all forum members for your advices and encouragements during the build.

Hi, I finally managed to shoot a short video of the C17 in action while going fishing, at cruise speed around 20kts, 4800rpm.

Nice!!! Jeff

AWESOME!!!

That is really nice and quite too

Thanks all. Yes the 50 Yam is very quiet, although covered here by the wind noise, and pushes the C17 well, 26 to 27 kts (30 to 31mph) depending on the presence of the bimini. It consumes about 7l/h (+/- 2 gallons).

I'll try to shoot videos in rough seas, but then I need both hands on the wheel...

I like the way it turned out, and I bet you love it! Very nice.

Thanks Hank, yes so far so good, just what the doctor ordered.

Hi all

I have finally added ball-type one-way scuppers and had a chance to test them for a day of fishing today. They work perfectly ! I've spent the whole morning drifting in pretty agitated water with waves, chop and lots of boats wakes, and not a drop of water entered the cockpit. Only issue, they're a little noisy when the ball falls back in its cage.

Validated and highly recommended !

Nice piece!

I've just installed the Keelshield that was laying around for some time. Man, that was hard, literally a pain in the back as I've been crawling under the trailer for 1 hour at least. An advice to all builders, do it at construction time while the hull is upside down!

It takes quite a few steps: dry fitting the shield, marking the perimeter with masking tape, cleaning, sanding, cleaning again, laying the activator, and finally gluing the shield on the bottom, center first, then both sides.

But I trust it will be worth it, the shield goes up to the skeg, so I should be reasonably protected against unforeseen encounters with the ground.