Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Mando they may say 72 hrs but the experience of Joel and Jacque says that an amine blush will occur after 24 hours and you will need to wash it off. Listen to the experts that have the experience. For the bubbles you are probably fine as the small amounts will not matter. But for large surface areas anything more than 24-30 hrs should be scrubed with water. Remember Sys3 wants to sell their product and make it seem easy to use. Jacque and Joel support thier product but also put thier experience behind it.

Tom

Here is what the Sys3 guide says:

"All this now allowed us to optimize the coating/fi berglassing resin
system since it no longer had to perform other functions. We
developed an almost colorless easy to use 2:1 system that cures
without amine blush"

And here is what is said about Sys3 Silvertip resin on Joel's website under the Building supplies section:

"SilverTip Laminating Resin cures to a brilliant blush-free film"

I have had no issues with glassing over resin a few weeks old provided I sand first.

no blush means there will not be a blush to compromise your secondary/mechanical bond, which is what you are getting after 24 hours (no more chemical bond after that point).

So you want your secondary/mechanical bonds to be as good possible, which means sanding or roughing up the epoxy/glass especially if its slick.

Bottom line is its darn near impossible to screw up secondary bonds using a blush free epoxy.

So fill the spaces and go?

Mando you didn't say you were using Silvertip you said System 3 totally different epoxies with Silvertip your good to go as long as you keep to the 72 hours. Go to it guy and have fun You won't notice a difference in strength in glassing after a couple of weeks but it is there, just do to the strength of the epoxy. Try to keep to a chemical bond not a mechanical one. The difference is about 7/8+- of the chemical bond as I recall.

Jacque designs these boats for an amateur to build and understands that people will not follow the instructions exactly. But to get the highest strength boat it is best to follow the instructions as written and not vary from them. If you have to change your time table you have the safety factors built in will cover that.

Tom

All of this is good information...probably a little more than I needed. Reality is that I'm going to put a second layer on, so the problems areas will just get sanded down, cleaned up, patched, then glassed over.

So I will soon begin with sanding, fairing, and more sanding, then ultimately applying the bottom paint. But here is a curious question. I want to paint the bottom so I don't have to flip it back over again. But when the boat gets flipped, it will certainly experience some twisting, bowing, and bending in some areas, particularly the bottom. Will the epoxy and paint (S3) be able to tolerate this action, or will it show some cracks or seperations?

If I finished out the topside of the boat, which includes adding the stringers, sole, and decks, it will help to stiffen up the entire boat, which may lead to less strain on the hull when its flipped again. So should I wait to fair and paint until after the topside is complete? I know that many builders complete the bottom first.

Maybe I'm making too big of a deal out of this, and the natural movement of the hull when flipping won't hurt anything?

Maybe I'm making too big of a deal out of this, and the natural movement of the hull when flipping won't hurt anything?

I think you are...making too big of a thing out of this. Have not seen any posts of problems with paint cracking when flipping, and I have been reading everything I can for over a year here. Might be a problem, so I'll watch to see others' responses. I did not paint the entire outside of my boat before flipping and was kicking myself in the ass later. Just taping off the water line was a royal pain as it was down on a 2X rack after the flip, and painting that low really sucked. Got it done, but it would have been so much easier when she was upside down.

Yeah, I think that its really no big deal, but I figured I'd ask the question anyway. While the boat is running in the water, it will experience some flexing and minor twisting anyway. I just want to make sure its getting done right so I don't have to fix it later. And no, I do NOT want to flip it again.
seth

I have built three boats now. A PH16, a PH 15 all foam version and an XF20. I have flipped all more than one time and have had no, nada problems with any creaking, cracj=king, or anything else. Just make sure you havesome sort of padding on the ground when you flip. One I used two forklifts. Picked it up with rope and just turned it over. the others laid some 2 x 4's on the ground and with some help just rolled them over.I also put bolts through the transome drain and bow eye. picked it up with my engine hoist and rolled it over. NO problem. Just use your enginuity.