FS 14 LS Measurement Question
Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
Assemble the hull with the standard layers and add the clamping board thickness just before the deck.
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
Next question: The FS 14 LS transom is made up of two layers of 3/8 plywood. I am getting ready to glue them together. Can someone explain the dowel method? Is it necessary to use on such a small boat? Thanks Joe
Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
The idea is that when you apply epoxy and begin assembling the transom layers, the pieces want to slide around as you begin applying clamp pressure. If you align them carefully while dry and then drill holes through both pieces, after applying the epoxy you lay the ply together and insert the dowels (coated with epoxy) to guarantee they stay aligned while the resin sets. After it's cured, cut the dowels off flush and proceed. Obviously, this isn't something you'd do if you're planning a bright finish.
There are a number of ways to accomplish this , but the dowel method works well. The same process works well for aligning layers of rub rail- dry fit, drill holes, apply epoxy and get those dowels in to hold things in alignment.
There are a number of ways to accomplish this , but the dowel method works well. The same process works well for aligning layers of rub rail- dry fit, drill holes, apply epoxy and get those dowels in to hold things in alignment.
Hank
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
My build is coming along. Got the transom glued and attached along with the bottom and sides. Unfortunately I have a 2 inch gap at the bow (see pic). I would like to get some input on the best way to overcome this minor issue. Also should I have a gap where the transom meets the bottom and sides? Thanks in advance for the input.
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
No nails and I see too many stitches but that is not a big deal.
There must be a cutting mistake, that side panel looks too short.
Try to slide that side panel forward until the gap is about 1". If that is not possible, try to round the bow tip with fiberglass. Make a small mold from a piece of foam.
Many of those boats were built, I have seen many of them and the side panel should fit.
There must be a cutting mistake, that side panel looks too short.
Try to slide that side panel forward until the gap is about 1". If that is not possible, try to round the bow tip with fiberglass. Make a small mold from a piece of foam.
Many of those boats were built, I have seen many of them and the side panel should fit.
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
Worked through my previous bow issues and now I am ready to weld my seams. I am using the Silver Tip series.
Two questions: First please confirm - The process as I understand it is to weld the joints with Epoxy Glue (GelMagic Resin + Hardener). Is that correct? I want to make sure I use the correct product. Second question - Is it better to coat the joint with Epoxy (resin + hardener) before welding with the GelMagic Epoxy Glue?
Sorry for the elementary questions but it is my first time working with fiberglass and it seems there are many terms used interchangeably.
Two questions: First please confirm - The process as I understand it is to weld the joints with Epoxy Glue (GelMagic Resin + Hardener). Is that correct? I want to make sure I use the correct product. Second question - Is it better to coat the joint with Epoxy (resin + hardener) before welding with the GelMagic Epoxy Glue?
Sorry for the elementary questions but it is my first time working with fiberglass and it seems there are many terms used interchangeably.
Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
I like to prime (coat) all surfaces before applying putty or fiberglass but the GelMagic is formulated to be applied on dry wood. It will not hurt if you prime and wait for it to be tacky but it is not required in this case.
The sequence is:
- spot weld between stitches ( every 12 or 18")
- after cure, quick pass with a grinder to remove high spots
- apply the taped seams: prime, apply fiberglass tape. In this case I prime IF not already done before the gluing step.
Whatever you do, epoxy is a very forgiving material.
The sequence is:
- spot weld between stitches ( every 12 or 18")
- after cure, quick pass with a grinder to remove high spots
- apply the taped seams: prime, apply fiberglass tape. In this case I prime IF not already done before the gluing step.
Whatever you do, epoxy is a very forgiving material.
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
I am ready to start laying glass on the bottom and have an easy question. When I received my supplies the BOM listed 50 yards of 6 oz. 6' fiberglass tape. Take a look at the pic. Is there any difference between these two? I assume (dangerous thing) not but thought it might good to ask.
Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
George, the tape on the left (looking at the photo) is the correct 6oz 6 inch tape to use. The other roll is likely 6 oz 6 inch but from an old supplier that we no longer use or buy from. Call me when you have a minute and I will get a replacement to you for that old roll. Have not seen that tape in two years as we have been buying from a different source for that long. 772.770.1225 Jeff
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Re: FS 14 LS Measurement Question
Yes. One is biax. The other woven. The biax makes a stomger joint (lots of technical reasons that JM posts elsewhere). Prefer biax for strength when you have the option.
Woven makes a smoother laminate. Less sanding than biax. Generally not used for joints unless it’s the last layer in a multilayer seams.
All that said, lots of boats were built with woven tape seams.
The one with the glass running diagonally is the biax.
Woven makes a smoother laminate. Less sanding than biax. Generally not used for joints unless it’s the last layer in a multilayer seams.
All that said, lots of boats were built with woven tape seams.
The one with the glass running diagonally is the biax.
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