FS18 Build- "Insufficient Funds"

[Fuzz]

I have never used the West system 610 so I do not know how it works. I do see you are using Marine Epoxy now. If you mix in west system are you willing to wait until it fully cures? That would need to happen before returning to the Marine Epoxy.

[cape man]

What Fuzz said...

[pee wee]

People seem to love Gel Magic which is the same kind of thing and is made using Silvertip epoxy, but I guess there's going to be the same issue with waiting for cure first.

You could also get an empty caulk tube and fill it with your own mix using MarineEpoxy, probably want to use slow hardener for that.

Piping bags are a similar idea, but the trick is to keep them from bursting open while you're squeezing them. If you use ziploc bags get the freezer bags because they're a thicker, stronger plastic. Same applies there, since you're pre-mixing resin and hardener use slow hardener and work fast.

[Dutch1]

If you use ziploc bags get the freezer bags because they're a thicker, stronger plastic. Same applies there, since you're pre-mixing resin and hardener use slow hardener and work fast.

X2. Go to Sams or Costco and buy a 4-pack box of ziploc freezer bags. It costs the same for a 4-pack as it will for one at the grocery store. I used them each time I had to pipe out thickened epoxy. Just cut a corner out and as pee wee said work fast. I never had a bag pop with thickened epoxy.

[gyarbs]

Any one ever have issue with the two bow molds overlapping when trying to get the shape of the boat right? If so do you have any recommendations to fix it

[seaslug]

Is this a CNC cut kit? With the CNC kit the long slits in the panels are wider than if you cut them yourself with a circular saw or jig saw, and the strips will bind up. I found the only way I could do mine was using the pieces of PVC pipe on the underside that you wrap the tie wraps around as you tighten them and pull it all together as you move forward towards the bow. The PVC pipes to me are essential, and make the shaping of the bow very easy, but you also need to use spacers, I used 16 penny nails, that way you maintain a small gap between panels. I also found I needed a lot more holes drilled, and a lot of ties to pull it together, but part of that was me not knowing to cut the slits wide enough to prevent them binding up. Hope this helps, good luck. Mike

[Reid]

gyarbs,

First thing, when we cut the slits for the round chine on the CNC table we don't go all the way thru. Make sure you took the rest of the wood out of those cuts. Those slits should be separated by 1/4" in order for there to be enough room for the panels to wrap around the frames A and B.

Secondly. Make sure you have all the hull panels hung (loose) before you use attempt to stitch the rounded chine. Make sure the sheer line (top of the hull sides) are sitting flush with the frames. Some times they have a tendency to "ride up" while stitching. If they are not flush with the frames then you will run out of room at the chine and keel and the pieces will bind. In the photos below, the screws in the bow are to hold the hull panels flush with the bow mold and frames.

Lastly, kind of like Seaslug said, I used pieces of a pencil to help push the chine slits out and into position. I also added more stitch holes and smaller zip ties to help make the shape. This is a very time consuming process and you may need to trim some wood as you go along to ensure a good shape and fit. Keep an eye on the bow mold and make sure it is not getting in the way of the panels coming together. Trim it if necessary.

Here are some photos of my build to give you an idea:



Good Luck,
Reid

[gyarbs]

The first post in a while we have glassed the hull and sanded just past the biaxial threads.

We have also sharpened the last few feet of the chine, and the bottom at the transom for good clean water flow. We built a mold, or dam, out of some 1/4 plywood per Cracker Lary's recommendations. Covered it with packing tape and attached it to the hull with Gorilla tape. It's about 6 feet long. This is currently drying and hopefully, we will not lose any epoxy out of the bottom.

While this drys we are wondering whether or not to attach a skeg. We have seen that some people have chosen not to do this and are wondering what the implications are if any. Would love any feedback on whether to include it or not as we prepare for fairing.

[OrangeQuest]

The bottom is looking very good, great work!

The skeg helps the boat track and keeps it from "skidding" during turns when on a plane. It also lets you know when it makes contact with a hard bottom so the skeg is designed to take the wear and tear of hard bottom contact so the hull reminds intact. Easier to replace the skeg than major repairs to the hull.

[gyarbs]

We have sharpened our corners and are going to begin fitting the rub rails this week. However, before we do this we are considering lowering the sear line. Wondering if any of the other FS18 builders have done so and if so how much did they take off.