Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Steve, no problem.

shine wrote:The cap is worth saving unless its completely rotten. Not having a decent cap will add at least $2500 in material/labor to the cost of out AS rebuild. The plus side is that we made a deck that is totally unique and quite pretty

The liner will normally include the sole. the sole is EASY to replace fully because it is flat.

Joel, My Robalo comes home for restoration in a few days, so last night I spent hours going over this entire thread and I have a question...I understand this particular Aquasport was a previous rebuild attempt leaving you with an undesirable cap and minus the liner that would have included the sole...so the question is this:

How likely is anyone going to be able to remove a liner? Complete? In sections perhaps? Any advice on that? After perusing the Mako rebuild forum, I saw only ONE rebuild in which the liner and sole were removed, rennovated, then re-installed.

Q wrote: How likely is anyone going to be able to remove a liner? Complete? In sections perhaps? Any advice on that? After perusing the Mako rebuild forum, I saw only ONE rebuild in which the liner and sole were removed, rennovated, then re-installed.

NOt easy, because it should be bedded down with putty. If you have to take it out in parts, try to make the cuts where they are easy to fair back in. (assuming you want to use the liner again)

There is a local guy rebuilding seacraft, he said his entire liner had broker free from the stringers - they brittle old polyester putty has finally given up. I guess the better the boat was put together the more difficult it will be to demo

making the cockpit drains...











getting all the hardware together...

fairing in the scupper drains using quick fair





Console is glassed down to the sole (from inside) with 12 oz. Biax tape. Makes for a nice clean seam on the outside and is extremely strong - this console will never move/shake



After a little more fairing on Friday, we hit the entire inside with one coat f the new S3 epoxy primer. You can see how well one coat covers. We will sand this coat, do some last bits of fairing (it all quickfair from now on), then more primer before hardware and paint

Wow, its starting to look like a boat! A U-boat, but a boat nonetheless Damn, that would a cool paint scheme for a boat like that, paint it up gloss grey with some big white block letters like a navy ship. How many white, beige, yellow, baby blue, and seafoam green center consoles can we take?

Give the idea a little time to set, haha.

Hey Joel, did you punch the holes through for your bow eye yet? Did you do any repair to that area? Mine was all busted out, and currently it has a bunch of layers on the "inside" of biax, then a big glob of putty, and a peice of 3/8" Meranti plus another few layers of biax. Unfortunately before I put down the first layer of biax I didnt have the forthought to clean up the broken edge in the hull and put down some packing tape and putty, so essentially I have a solid surface on the inside but still a big oval hole in the hull where the bow eye went. Should I just feather the old glass back, then fill it with quick fair to match the surrounding contour, put two holes in it and be done(but have the bow eye sitting on a radius)..

I dont think thats the way to go, but I am torn between doing the above and simply flattening it where the bow eye sets, or actually building up a pad that sits above the surrounding contour. Your thoughts?

You have plenty of glass/wood on the inside. I would just fair the outside and re-drill the hole. I would use wood flour (or another Hard filler) as apposed to fairing blend for this. A fairing blend (blended filler or quickfair) is too soft and may compress when you tighten down the bow eye

I like the gray color too, but its just primer. The last surfboard we built here we made gunmetal gray with red stripes. The Aquasport will get a white or off white paint job (neutral) whoever buys it from us can pick another color if they like.

Fitting hardware.

I wanted to keep the deck super clean, so for the stern cleats we used hause pipes and kept the 6" SS cleats mounted to the rear bulkhead.



Bow cleat is a large pop up cleat, with stud mounts (no visible fasteners).



The hatched get nice SS twist latches





I still have to find the right rod holders for the gunnels. Will do the traditions 4 rod holders plus a couple more forward (for drift fishing).

Rubrail is ordered with any luck we will get to paint next week. I think we will do the outside hull/gunnel/and coming with a Hatters White (sterling LPU), then use a System three paint for the inside.

I like where you put the cleat on the rear bulkhead. The original mounts where too high for my liking. You have made it so one can hold the rope while leanning against the cap and reach down with the other hand to tie off. If the cleat were higher the cap edge would be an obstruction. Good job

Looks great shine
What kind of engine bracket are you thinking of useing?
Armstrong with built in swim platform?