Classic C-Hawk 18 Rebuild

[tech_support]

I would use three layers and then wrap in 1708

[Willc]

So..I'm getting ready to order more epoxy and fiberglass and thought I might as well get some painting supplies. The paint thing confuses me; some primers are incompatible with some topcoats, some paints peel off in entire sheets if you don't hold your mouth right when applying, etc.

1. What is the best primer/paint combination for above the waterline that I probably won't screw up?

2. How much should I get to do my 18' C-hawk outside and inside above the waterline? I have no idea if I'm looking at gallons or quarts.

Thanks,

Will

[Cracker Larry]

some primers are incompatible with some topcoats, some paints peel off in entire sheets if you don't hold your mouth right when applying, etc.

System 3 yacht primer is awesome for every topcoat I've used with it. System 3 topcoats I will never use again, they suck. I'm going to use EMC on the boat I'm building now and they recommend their primer, of course. To prevent later trouble, or cause of contention, I'm using EMC primer over 3 coats of S3 primer. Sterling is excellent topcoat paint, so is Awlgrip. I hope the EMC is too Then again many people are happy with big box store porch paint. If you start with S3 primer you can't hardly go wrong though.

How much should I get to do my 18' C-hawk outside and inside above the waterline? I have no idea if I'm looking at gallons or quarts.

A gallon of primer should do it with 2 coats. For the finish coats probably 2-3 mixed quarts, depending on the paint system. Most 2 part solvent paints require a base, a hardener, and a reducer in different ratios depending on the brand and they lay out in thin coats. Much thinner than the primer so it goes farther.

[Willc]

You are the man, Larry. Exactly what I needed. Thank God it finally stopped raining!!!

Thanks very much,

Will

[Chuck123]

That's really a nice Classic C-Hawk 18 Rebuilding....

[Willc]

Thanks Chuck!!

I got quite a bit of work done over the past week.


First stringer bedded and partially tabbed. It was a little bit hot and my fast hardener kicked off before I got the whole right side of stringer covered in the first layer of tape. I rushed and made a mess with the thickened epoxy. Decided to let it cure, sand and start fresh. The rest of the right side went down pretty well the next day. I was able to do the entire left side wet on wet and the results were much better.


Second stringer secured into place with my makeshift leveling/position jigs. It wasn't pretty, but it worked pretty well. I used the 2 boards across the gunwales to make sure the hull had not twisted. You sight across them from the stern to make sure they are parallel. I actually had to shim up one side of the stern. Glad I checked.


It should look like this.


All the old is out!! I decided to replace the big stringers one at a time to keep a frame of reference for the height and to avoid any hull deformation. This might not have been the quickest way to do it, but it seems to have worked out.

Now I'm going to cut the remaining new stringers and wait for more epoxy and tape. It takes a lot of epoxy to bed and filet the stringers. The advice on this forum is outstanding, BTW.

Will

[Willc]

Questions about aluminum fuel tanks. I know to have inspection plates at the fill, pick-up and supply so that I can get to hoses, etc. But how should the tank be supported? The old one was sitting on the top of a cut down stringer and a small support shelf at the bow end. It was screwed into the cleats on each side through brackets that are mounted on the tank.



I was thinking about supporting the tank's full length below with a shelf and having it rest on neoprene strips. Then hold it in place with the brackets into cleats mounted on the stringers.



Now for the really important part, the bottom of the tank has some pitting where it rested on the wet stringer.



I do not want to ever cut the sole out to replace the tank, at least not for 20 years or so. The tank is 53 gallons, which is way too much for the fishing that I do. The only time it is beneficial for me is when we take a week long vacation to Little Gasparilla. Other than that, I try not to keep too much gas in tank for fear of it getting old. I think 30 gallons is much more reasonable. With all that being said should I:
1. Gently grind out the pitting and keep the tank.
2. Take it to someone for brazing/welding.
3. Stop being a cheapskate and order a new tank that is smaller.

Opinions?

Will

[tech_support]

order a new tank that is smaller.

that would be my vote

the aluminum should not rest on anything that remains wet

[Willc]

Thanks for the quick reply!! What are your thoughts on aluminum versus plastic (Moeller)? The perfect Moeller tank is $550. You need an emoticon for fainting!

[tech_support]

I dont like plastic below decks. At that price you should be able to find a very nice aluminum tank.

Try RDS tanks, they have stock tanks that are priced very well