Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Tue Sep 09, 2014 9:29 pm**

This post was formally known as New Guy With Many Questions until I saw how you are supposed to ask for help. . .

I really don't know where to start so I will thank y'all for looking and apologize in advance if I stray from any forum guidelines.
This all started last Saturday when I decide to put a deck plate in my old boat so I could access the stringer and reach in and do a quick little repair that would hopefully eliminate the grinding noise under my feet when I hit a wave.
By Sunday I was surfing the web looking for materials.
From what I gather looking around the site, this is how boat repair projects begin.

I have done quite a few searches and have learned very much from this site from just reading the great articles but I don't quite have the big picture on boat repairs.
I guess I will just ask away and provide the background for the questions if it's needed for an answer.

First, how do you know which glass to use where ? . . What do the numbers mean ? . . Which is best for hull reinforcing ?

Can you tell which type of resin was used on a previous build/repair ? . . Would it matter which when repairing ?

Can you tell if existing paint is epoxy?

Does one primer work over poly and epoxy resins ?

Does Kiwi Grip need to be applied over paint or will it stick to primer ? . . or does it even need primer ?

Does does buoyancy foam actually add buoyancy ? . . would a boat sit higher in the water after foaming ?

Are there any downsides to foam ?

Is foam affected by fuel and oil?

Is there a rule of thumb for sizing outboard transoms - thickness vs horsepower ?

I will do a search on this but I can't figure out the picture thing. Started an album in Galleries because I understood that was the first step. I had to load one at a time then they were all flipped. Now the site won't let me copy and paste them.
The album is called 92 Thomas. It may help explain the questions. ( esp if you can stand on your head while looking)

Thanks for any help

Posted: **Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:28 pm**

There is a crop and rotate option if you go to your gallery and select the photo. It's at the bottom of each photo. That's all I'm qualified to answer

Jason

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 8:02 am**

Thanks,
I tried that and it worked but it does not let me close the crop windows afterwards. I have to exit the website then log back on to crop the next photo.

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:30 am**

Joel will reply to the technical questions. If he is out of the office, I may start the reply.
In the mean time, let's try to post the picture.
Use Paintnet. It is a free but high quality program.
Download it.
Crop your picture, adjust contrast etc. then resize to 800 pixels wide. Rotate as you want and save. Then upload to the gallery.
The gallery image manipulation tools are not too good.

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 10:20 am**

Thanks.
I guess I should have mentioned that I use a mobile device. Adobe flash player or Paintnet do not support it.
The pics turned out fine in The Gallery. Just time consuming but not horribly.
I had tried to paste a link and an error stated that I am not allowed to post URLs.
Will try one pic at a time as needed to help answer the technical questions.

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:29 pm**

Are you clicking the Img button? if so the link above the photo in the gallery goes between the 2 brackets.
[img]Place%20Link%20Here[/img]

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:04 pm**

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54150
My collapsed 4" wide stringer. Some sort of open cell foam wrapped in glass. This pic is the top of the stringer material with the cut away deck (sole?) glued to it
To clarify . . The foam sat directly on the bare hull and the glass mat laid on the came up and over the stringer. There is no mat on the hull, under the 4" wide stringer.
Also the very thin hull buckled up as the stringer gave way
Btw . . the builder drilled a 1"hole through the stringers. I assume to let condensated moisture run through to the center where it could be drained out the transom. This exposed the open cell stringer core to moisture so I intend to seal up the hole in the good stringer and not put one in the new stringer. This is one of the reasons I am considering buoyancy foam. Thinking that if the areas that can't drain had no air space then there will be no places for moisture to accumulate.

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:17 pm**

GradyGuy76 wrote:Are you clicking the Img button? if so the link above the photo in the gallery goes between the 2 brackets.
[img]Place%20Link%20Here[/img]

I don't even see the img button
Looks like I can post one link at a time. Thanks for trying but this will have to do.
UPS brought my box of goodies today so I need to dig in. After all of the new grinding I have done I guess another box will be needed.
I wish I knew what I was doing

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:28 pm**

The 5/8 foam core sheet deck that is glued( actually just set in a little resin) to the stringers
Apparently the builder just set this material on the stringers with no ledger strip on the sides. It was then filled and taped 3"" each way.
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54151

Posted: **Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:37 pm**

Where I am at now . . Feel free to rotate

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54136

Posted: **Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:53 am**

Transom is 1.75 total inches thick. This includes the .25 inch outer skin. It is it great shape.
Looking through the resin at the top of the transom, it appears to be plywood. Guessing 2 layers of 3/4". (11/32). With the 1/8 inch of resin inside the math works.
Is there a way to determine a safe max. HP outboard if this boat needs re powering? It has a '92 70HP Evinrude now.

Posted: **Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:02 am**

mobile devises are a blessing and a curse

lets start by rotating and posting up some pictures

Posted: **Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:38 am**

Can you tell which type of resin was used on a previous build/repair ? . . Would it matter which when repairing ?

its was almost certainly made with polyester

you should absolutely use epoxy in the repair - a repair is almost 100% secondary bonding, which is where epoxy is by far superior

Can you tell if existing paint is epoxy?

cant tell, but it might just be gelcoat

Does one primer work over poly and epoxy resins ?

yes, the epoxy high build primer will bond to just about anything

Does Kiwi Grip need to be applied over paint or will it stick to primer ? . . or does it even need primer ?

KG does not need a primer, just a properly prepared surface (clean and sanded)

Does does buoyancy foam actually add buoyancy ? . .

It add reserve buoyancy, it keeps the space from filling with water, which is what keeps the boat from sinking. A completely sealed compartment would do the same thing. Imagine two 5 gallon buckets, on filled with foam and the other empty, now you want to push those buckets down into the water. they both will take the same amount of effort to push down until water comes over the top. The one with foam will still be displacing 5 gallons of water while the other one will loose all its buoyancy. I would absolutely replace the amount of foam that was there before

would a boat sit higher in the water after foaming ?

No, that's kind of like pulling up on the side of the chair your in so you can fly

Are there any downsides to foam ?

its takes up space and costs money. the foam also dampens vibration and makes the bottom feel more solid

Is foam affected by fuel and oil?

no

Is there a rule of thumb for sizing outboard transoms - thickness vs horsepower ?

There are a couple ways to calculate that. Once you have a calculated thickness and added a large safety factor, you are at some increment of 1/2" - a transom for boat of that size will typically be made from two layers of 3/4". Calculating a new transom is beyond what we want to do here. I can tell you however, that most powerboats will not have over 1.75" transom thickness until you get to around 21' to 23'. There is much more to stiffening up the transom than just the core thickness!! How the sole/deck , stringers, and transom boxes come together adds a lot of the stiffness.

Posted: **Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:18 pm**

shine wrote:
Can you tell which type of resin was used on a previous build/repair ? . . Would it matter which when repairing ?
its was almost certainly made with polyester

you should absolutely use epoxy in the repair - a repair is almost 100% secondary bonding, which is where epoxy is by far superior

Can you tell if existing paint is epoxy?
cant tell, but it might just be gelcoat

Does one primer work over poly and epoxy resins ?
yes, the epoxy high build primer will bond to just about anything

Does Kiwi Grip need to be applied over paint or will it stick to primer ? . . or does it even need primer ?
KG does not need a primer, just a properly prepared surface (clean and sanded)

Does does buoyancy foam actually add buoyancy ? . .
It add reserve buoyancy, it keeps the space from filling with water, which is what keeps the boat from sinking. A completely sealed compartment would do the same thing. Imagine two 5 gallon buckets, on filled with foam and the other empty, now you want to push those buckets down into the water. they both will take the same amount of effort to push down until water comes over the top. The one with foam will still be displacing 5 gallons of water while the other one will loose all its buoyancy. I would absolutely replace the amount of foam that was there before

would a boat sit higher in the water after foaming ?
No, that's kind of like pulling up on the side of the chair your in so you can fly

Are there any downsides to foam ?
its takes up space and costs money. the foam also dampens vibration and makes the bottom feel more solid

Is foam affected by fuel and oil?
no

Is there a rule of thumb for sizing outboard transoms - thickness vs horsepower ?
There are a couple ways to calculate that. Once you have a calculated thickness and added a large safety factor, you are at some increment of 1/2" - a transom for boat of that size will typically be made from two layers of 3/4". Calculating a new transom is beyond what we want to do here. I can tell you however, that most powerboats will not have over 1.75" transom thickness until you get to around 21' to 23'. There is much more to stiffening up the transom than just the core thickness!! How the sole/deck , stringers, and transom boxes come together adds a lot of the stiffness.

quote]Does does buoyancy foam actually add buoyancy ? . . [/quote]

It add reserve buoyancy, it keeps the space from filling with water, which is what keeps the boat from sinking. A completely sealed compartment would do the same thing. Imagine two 5 gallon buckets, on filled with foam and the other empty, now you want to push those buckets down into the water. they both will take the same amount of effort to push down until water comes over the top. The one with foam will still be displacing 5 gallons of water while the other one will loose all its buoyancy. I would absolutely replace the amount of foam that was there before
quote]Does does buoyancy foam actually add buoyancy ? . . [/quote]

Ok I appreciate the answers. I feel like I can safely move forward. If it was not for the random fuel spillage I would jut spend the money and foam the entire thing but that fuel needs an exit path. Could I just seal off a channel from under the fuel tank to the hull drain and foam all of the space between the hull and deck ? . . I think I am talking about a total of 32 cubic feet less the foam in the starboard side that would be encapsulated. Maybe 2 cf. . . I do not know what amount of foam may be forward of the tank.

I am getting the picture but the foam is still a sticking point. Notthat it matters in this case because I was way more concerned more about too much buoyancy and you answered that for me but . . The foam has to weigh somewhat more than air. Wouldn't that weight make it at least a little easier to push down the bucket full of foam ? . . The only reason it matters in my case is that I would like to lower the thru transom deck drains about a 1/2 inch and I did not want seawater standing in. As is, the boat is 100% self bailing.

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:38 am**

2x4 ribs every 20". I used screws thru the hull and shims below to pull the hull back to the same shape as the other side. (Thanx shine) . . And for fixing my pics . . I put the 17 oz biaxle cloth over the screws then cleared around the heads while wet. I will pull the screws after the new (plywood?)stringer is set.
The 50" material was perfect to roll up the sides 3"
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54156
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54154
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54157

I cut out the rubber stopper in the transom as soon as the resin set up

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54158

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:24 am**

compartments with foam should either be completely full and sealed off, or have a drain. I suggest adding it on the outside of the stringers. Every place under the sole needs to drain, unless its 100% sealed up.

If it was not for the random fuel spillage I would jut spend the money and foam the entire thing but that fuel needs an exit path. Could I just seal off a channel from under the fuel tank to the hull drain and foam all of the space between the hull and deck ? . .

yes, I would absolutely make it all but impossible for any fuel to sit on the foam (or anythign else nasty that might get in the bilge; cleaner/bleach/oil/fuel/etc) its "resistant"

I was trying to keep the example simple, but yes the 5 gallon bucket full of foam would weigh a couple pounds more. The foam is 2 lb per cubic foot.

Posted: **Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:47 pm**

The sole is and will be 100% sealed. It is about 2" above the water line with no one aboard. With 200 lbs at the helm some seawater will lap back thru the drains but tied off with the drains unplugged it will self bail in a hurricane.
I don't want to add too much weight and mess up one the best things about the boat. I will do as you said with the foam. And I will also seal a fuel path in case of spillage since I don't know if there may be other hidden holes drilled in the remaining stringer. That way if it still self bails well after the repairs I could safely foam inside the stringers.
Thanks

Posted: **Sat Sep 13, 2014 6:43 pm**

It dawned on me today that it's kind of silly to have ANY fuel under the sole. I was not thinking for myself and just following what the original builder was thinking.
The tank well could contain quite a bit of fuel between its walls and the 28 gallon portable tank. Spillage has never amounted to more than a few ounces. Even if it were a large amount, I would rather have it fill up the tank well and spill out on the sole as opposed to running thru to the inside of the hull. It would splash around in there until I pull the boat out and drain the fuel out of the hull by pulling the drain plug.

Please correct me if I am missing something but I want to seal off the well that was built to house the fuel tank so any spilled fuel would stay contained or worse case scenario, spill over onto the sole for clean up. It is not too difficult to pull that tank out of the well either, but it' is 200lbs full

If this is plan agreeable I would go ahead and seal off the 1" hull drain and foam between the stringers. It's about 8 cu. ft. so 16lbs of foam to go that route.

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:20 am**

there are USCG rules for fuel tanks. You need to look them up and make sure to comply, what you propose (or what I think you propose

) will not pass muster.

For a boat like yours, i would probably look to a portable tank set up. You can hide it in a box and it make things super simple.

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:48 am**

shine wrote:there are USCG rules for fuel tanks. You need to look them up and make sure to comply, what you propose (or what I think you propose ) will not pass muster.

For a boat like yours, i would probably look to a portable tank set up. You can hide it in a box and it make things super simple.

Shine,

You bring up a good point. His boat will always be registered as a 1992 hull. Regarding fuel and USCG regs - fuel under the sole, does he have to meet 2014 standards for a rebuild, or can he revert to 1992 standards? I know many Texas manufactures are having to refigure boat fuel systems due to new regulations but how does that apply to a rebuilt old hull?

Thanks.

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 12:35 pm**

I was not even referring to the new EPA standards, its sounds to me like he has the tank not vent/filling over the sides.

Like i said, I may not be picturing it right

I know many Texas manufactures are having to refigure boat fuel systems due to new regulations but how does that apply to a rebuilt old hull?

I am not a lawyer, nor do I pretend to want to be, but it is my clear understanding that older boat do not need to be retrofitted. If it is titled as a 1992 boat, then its a 1992 boat

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 1:03 pm**

shine wrote:...it is my clear understanding that older boat do not need to be retrofitted. If it is titled as a 1992 boat, then its a 1992 boat

And a 1989 Majek is a 1989 Majek

thx.

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 4:10 pm**

[quote="Yhandy
The tank well could contain quite a bit of fuel between its walls and the 28 gallon portable tank.[/quote]

It sounds like he's got a portable tank sitting down in a well, does that change things?

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:26 pm**

pee wee wrote:[quote="Yhandy
The tank well could contain quite a bit of fuel between its walls and the 28 gallon portable tank.

It sounds like he's got a portable tank sitting down in a well, does that change things?[/quote]

That is correct. Thank you for clarifying Pee Wee.
It makes me happy that I am not the only one skim reading posts.
It does not help the cause that I can only post links to my pics but there are enough in The Gallery to get the big picture.

"For a boat like yours, i would probably look to a portable tank set up. You can hide it in a box and it make things super simple."

Sorry but I thought that this was clear . .
The tank IS a 28gal portable. It is 15" tall. It sits in a well about half of its depth. The upper half has a fabricated foam core box. The cover has (had) an 8" round screw plate access hatch that was removed for fueling. It was very awkward and was the main cause for fuel spillage. The cover (box) is a perfect spot for a cooler/seat.
I have now modified the well and cover. Pics (links) to come.

Posted: **Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:38 am**

The upper half has a fabricated foam core box. The cover has (had) an 8" round screw plate access hatch that was removed for fueling. It was very awkward and was the main cause for fuel spillage. The cover (box) is a perfect spot for a cooler/seat. I have now modified the well and cover. Pics (links) to come.

Im not sure that setup is inline with the regulations on portable tanks. Im not saying its not safe, or will cause any problem, I just know you can seal off a portable tank like that.

It makes me happy that I am not the only one skim reading posts.

Im sorry

Posted: **Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:20 am**

Is this the fuel tank compartment?

Posted: **Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:26 am**

Yes. The only difference is that it is now sealed and there are recessed areas on the sides to access the molded in handles on the fuel tank. Originally it had a 2" drain hole in the bottom. I cut the bottom out to access the bad stringer.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54201
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54202
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54203

" For a boat like yours, i would probably look to a portable tank set up. You can hide it in a box and it make things super simple."

" It's 71/2" deep. The 28gal. portable tank is 15" tall so it sits above the sole for about half of its height. It has a fabricated box cover that sits outside of that lip on the sole."

Posted: **Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:56 am**

It has a fabricated box cover that sits outside of that lip on the sole."

How does it ventilate

I really cant see this setup passing with USCG regs, but its your boat

Posted: **Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:09 pm**

It has a vented cap on the tank and the cover is nothing near air tight and nowhere near a spark. It will have to do.
The boat has previously passed Coast Guard Inspection with this set up but that point could have gone unnoticed and unquestioned. . . It is the least of my concerns for now
I really did not want to revert back to the cut and grind phase but I suspected there would be issues with the stringer forward of the fuel tank compartment. Although from what I could see with a flashlight the outer web looked fine above my cut, I became concerned about the inward web when I realized that the builder (Cotton Thomas) notched it to Accommodate the fuel tank compartment . . I am starting to think this was where the issues originated. . . . . but then again the starboard side is not only healthy, it carried everything for a few years since the port stringer started failing.
I decided to use my storage hatch from the original repair plan and I made the cutout forward of the fuel tank compartment.
Flashlight showed the stringer was not damaged but had separated from the hull.
I really wish I would have pulled the entire sole from the start but I had no idea of the damage. I also hated to tear up the good stringer which would have been hard to separate from the sole.
I still think I can make this work but I need to backpedal a bit. Hoping I can fillet and glass in the loose side of the stringer by reaching up through the hatch access that I cut to inspect the stringer. Also think I can reinforce the attached side which will maybe take the load off of the loose side of that stringer since it won't be a pristine repair . . If it ends up better than the other side I will live with it. . .
my grandfather always said " if you have say, " that's good enough " , than it ain't " . . I try to live by that but I need to fish.

Also noticed the starboard gunwale is caved in about 2" toward center . . Think I have a fix.
I have a bunch of plywood parts cut out and resined on all 6 sides so hoping to make progress tomorrow before and after work.

Sorry no time for pics but thank y'all for fixing the ones I have had time to post.

Posted: **Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:09 am**

It has a vented cap on the tank and the cover is nothing near air tight and nowhere near a spark. It will have to do.
The boat has previously passed Coast Guard Inspection with this set up but that point could have gone unnoticed and unquestioned. . . It is the least of my concerns for now

roger that, moving on

I still think I can make this work but I need to backpedal a bit. Hoping I can fillet and glass in the loose side of the stringer by reaching up through the hatch access that I cut to inspect the stringer. Also think I can reinforce the attached side which will maybe take the load off of the loose side of that stringer since it won't be a pristine repair . . If it ends up better than the other side I will live with it. . .

Yes, I would absolutely re-tab the stringers, even the parts that look good. make a good size fillet (I would use a mix of silica and wood flour), the layer in 3 layers of 12 oz tape. You could use a couple layers of 1708 also. Offset the edges so you get a good overlap.

Posted: **Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:53 pm**

Got it,
THANKS !

Posted: **Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:40 am**

I wiggled in as far as I could in that 10x20 deck hatch cut out. I got a long handled brush and scrubbed everything with denatured alcohol after I vacuumed. I made fillets with wood flour and some chopped up glass mat. I also did the same on the good stringer on the starboard side.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54257

That existing mat sure is heavy. It ate up some resin. Wish I would have filled it first since there was no grinding that I could really do .

I also reached up between the port side and the outside of that stringer with a length of aluminum foil. I rubbed it in for a template and then cut out a piece of plywood to fit, allowing room to glue in fillets top and bottom. I made a wacky brace to hopefully squeeze out the glue I troweled on after priming all sides with resin. It was mostly done by feel and hopefully not too much resin squeezed out since again I can't grind before glossing in

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54258

The flat 2x4 is holding the caved in gunwale to shape so I need to figure out something to retain that
Also after a long session of thinking about the way this all came to be I wondered why the corner of the fuel tank compartment did not rub through the hull after the stringer went. So I checked. It did. Hopefully it's not touching now but I can't cut and fill it without messing up this work. . . Cant I cut it out from the bottom since it needs a repair there anyway ?

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54259

I also picked up some nice old growth, 4/4, quarter-sawn, Douglas fir from a porch on a old farm house that I am redoing. It cleans up nice and has come in handy already.

I have to say this is addictive work

Posted: **Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:41 am**

Yhandy wrote:I wiggled in as far as I could in that 10x20 deck hatch cut out. I got a long handled brush and scrubbed everything with denatured alcohol after I vacuumed. I made fillets with wood flour and some chopped up glass mat. I also did the same on the good stringer on the starboard side.

That existing mat sure is heavy. It ate up some resin. Wish I would have filled it first since there was no grinding that I could really do .

I also reached up between the port side and the outside of that stringer with a length of aluminum foil. I rubbed it in for a template and then cut out a piece of plywood to fit, allowing room to glue in fillets top and bottom. I made a wacky brace to hopefully squeeze out the glue I troweled on after priming all sides with resin. It was mostly done by feel and hopefully not too much resin squeezed out since again I can't grind before glossing in

The flat 2x4 is holding the caved in gunwale to shape so I need to figure out something to retain that
Also after a long session of thinking about the way this all came to be I wondered why the corner of the fuel tank compartment did not rub through the hull after the stringer went. So I checked. It did. Hopefully it's not touching now but I can't cut and fill it without messing up this work. . . Cant I cut it out from the bottom since it needs a repair there anyway ?

I also picked up some nice old growth, 4/4, quarter-sawn, Douglas fir from a porch on a old farm house that I am redoing. It cleans up nice and has come in handy already.

I have to say this is addictive work

Posted: **Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:49 pm**

Thank you for fixing my pics, Marshall Moser !

Posted: **Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:58 pm**

"The flat 2x4 is holding the caved in gunwale to shape so I need to figure out something to retain that
Also after a long session of thinking about the way this all came to be I wondered why the corner of the fuel tank compartment did not rub through the hull after the stringer went. So I checked. It did. Hopefully it's not touching now but I can't cut and fill it without messing up this work. . . Cant I cut it out from the bottom since it needs a repair there anyway ?"

I guess I will have to. Unless it's highly not recommended for some reason.
The hole in the hull is about as big as a pencil eraser. I can't get a pic because of the cradle the boat is on right now.
The boat will be flipped as soon as I get a handle on the topside.

That darn fuel tank compartment is probably still pretty close to touching the inside of the hull and remember the stringer was notched for it and there is no mat under the stringers so it only had to rub through 3/16 .

Once I turn it over how should I go about that repair ?
.

Posted: **Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:43 am**

You can glass the fuel box to the hull bottom and it will become part of the structure.

Fixing the hole is another story. I would cut the box out, do all your stringer glassing and while you there glass over the hole with biaxial glass. Making a structural repair from the inside is MUCH easier than trying to do it fro mthe outside with only 3/16" of glass to work with. This make fixing the outside basically cosmetic (grind/sand out a little, then fill with a patch of woven cloth, then fair)

Posted: **Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:35 pm**

I see what you mean. That's what I will do. Thanks

Posted: **Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:53 pm**

That work has all been done.
I used Marinepoxy with fast hardener to repair the bottom. Daytime temps in the 70's . . 50's at nite

How long should I wait for the epoxy to cure before I can paint the bottom ?
Is the procedure to just rough it up, then clean and paint ?

Posted: **Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:13 am**

How long should I wait for the epoxy to cure before I can paint the bottom ?

A day or two is fine, the marinepoxy is 100% solids so there is no shrinking to worry about.

Is the procedure to just rough it up, then clean and paint ?

yes, give it a lite sanding (I would use somethign like 120-150 grit), then wipe down with your favorite solvent and rag

Posted: **Wed Oct 08, 2014 11:42 pm**

Ok, thanks.

I started sanding the entire hull early. ( watched the lunar eclipse through the back of the shop)
I pulled it outside, hit it with the leaf blower and scrubbed it down with soap and water. I rinsed it well, dried it and left it in the sunshine while I went to work.
When I got home I saw that I had received the answer that I hoped for so all I had left to do was pull it back inside, swab it down with denatured alcohol and get started.

It got up to 80 degrees today and the humidity was steadily dropping all afternoon so I was able to get 3 coats on.

The paint is Bluewater ablative. In my opinion it dries too fast but it seems to be good paint. It was gifted to me along with some Bluewater polyurethane high gloss topside paint and primer.

As soon as I can tape off the waterline I will start on the hull above that to the rub rail.
Prime, sand, clean. Repeat. . . Maybe again ? Roll and tip ?
I will do a refresher search on that step but is there anything that I need to do that I may not find ? Or anything special about this paint ?

I am hoping this next step goes as smoothly as the last so I can turn her back over this weekend.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54612

Posted: **Fri Oct 10, 2014 9:14 am**

wow that is a great looking hull and paint job.

keep up the great work.

Posted: **Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:24 pm**

Thanks
I have started shining up the ol Evinrude while paint dries on the boat

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54638

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54639

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54640

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54641

Posted: **Sat Oct 11, 2014 1:07 pm**

This paint is not bad. It dries a little fast so the overlaps didn't pull together that well and can definitely see the tipping strokes.
Looking at some of the work done on this site makes it hard to let any imperfections go unaddressed.
Shines tutorial on 2 part poly paint boosted my expectations. Boy, that looked sharp, but my budget was blown way before now.
This paint was free and I just keep telling myself that this is a fishing rig, not a trailer queen.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54657

Posted: **Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:00 pm**

She's looking good, nice work!

Posted: **Sat Oct 11, 2014 4:12 pm**

Thank you, but it's the photography. Inside of 5' my lack of expertise is apparent.
I am learning a lot and the projects on the site are inspiring me to invest some extra time and effort.
Any credit belongs to the folks on here that have helped me out, along with the reasonable cost of supplies

Posted: **Mon Oct 13, 2014 9:02 am**

Very nice hull shape

Posted: **Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:17 pm**

I widened the gunwales from 2/12" to about 8", wider at the front but I did not follow the sole footprint because I felt that I needed the seat at the bow.
3rd coat of primer done and will sand and start painting as soon as I can

The Plan is to have a Striper on board before November but the boys are catching a few now so I may rush the job

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54740

Posted: **Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:24 pm**

Painted, Kiwi Grip on new gunwales/sole and a little rigging
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54782
The trash in the new bilge area takes away from the pic but I was out of gas and it was not in the way
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54784
I still need to touch up some of the white topside paint but it's shaping up
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54785
My wife has agreed to get me a custom stainless bow rail for Christmas so I can have something to lean on while casting from here

Posted: **Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:25 am**

looks great, you work fast.

Posted: **Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:42 pm**

Thanks. . . . Not really, I just don't sleep much

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54827

It floats. Tried fishin but in the 80s here and a not a great tide for what I had time to try.

She's back in the shop. Gonna attempt a rub rail install tonight

Posted: **Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:53 pm**

The job went fine.
Time to do some fishin.
Thanks guys.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54936
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54935
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54937
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=54938

Posted: **Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:11 pm**

Looks great, nice job!

Posted: **Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:57 am**

WOW - great looking boat

That restore looks awesome and did all that work in less than two months!!!!!!!!!!

Inspirational.

Posted: **Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:59 am**

Hell yeah!!! That looks great. Good job!

Posted: **Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:48 am**

tcason wrote:WOW - great looking boat

That restore looks awesome and did all that work in less than two months!!!!!!!!!!

Inspirational.

Posted: **Wed Oct 29, 2014 5:32 pm**

That is one fine looking boat! I only hope mine turns out half that good. Great job.

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