schieve lavabo progressing

[woodbike]

I think it depend on what type of stainless is used .I am just assuming that even stainless exposed to salt water will eventually fail .
I dedided to use as many anti corrosive featueres as I could.The aluminium tank was the less expensive tank and the easiest to customise and I could get it made locally. I etched it then zinc chromate primer then the coal tar epoxy .I kept it off the floor and away from the sides .Glues it in with 5200 As you can tell I tried to do all I could to avoid having to open up the floor in the future.
The tank was around $350 (50 gallons ) the paint $50 the etch about 10 and the two cans of primer I forget .So for around $400 I have a reliable tank .
See ya EJ

[fishsalmon]

Woodbike,
Thanks for the info and the website. My current mechanic, who I trust and respect has recommended stainless 309 or better. I agree with the thought, I want this to be a one time install. Having said all of that, I now have a better understanding of how to avoid the problems associated with aluminium. You also mention custom built to 50 gal where as the plans call for 42. Did you move a frame or use the "V" of the hull to achieve the extra space? okay, cut to chase - what where your dimensions if I can be so bold?
Stand by for many more questions. I finally figured out how, with minor re-arranging, I can fit the NV23 project in the garage. Looking good for spring start. SWMBO has given me the go-ahead. Will have to move outside to finish but at least I can get hull, sole etc done inside. Blake

[Hoot]

We did have a thread that asked about cutting out the frames G & F between inside stringers...never saw difinitive answer on how that could affect structural integrity?

what are you doing in regard to access to fittings etc?

Thanks

Hoot

[woodbike]

I don't have the exact measurements anymore but it was a basic rectangular tank without any bends under it .the total lenght was I think just under 6 feet and I gave myself one inch all the way around it.I moved the middle part of frame D (between the 2 middle stringers)back about a foot (maybe more) .I do remember that the result was a space 24 inch square between frame D and E just enough room for the water tank (12 gallon).
The vent and the fill pipes go to the left just behind frame C and up to the gunnel.I made a tunnel out of plywood under the sole (about 4-5 inches wide and2- 3 inches deep),to keep water out of the foamed in spaces .The fuel line comes off the back of the tank(Right side) in a PVC pipe just past frame F then into the right rear compartement.I also allowed for 3 openning above each fitting Including the gauge (the wires for that go into the right locker in front of C drilled hole and place flexible hose in it.The center space between the two middle stringers in the only one that should get water in it.I foamed all the other spaces I did drill some drain holes between the compartements before foaming them I figure that if some water gets into those sealed areas I could drill a hole into one of the center stringers to get some drainage hopefully I will never have to do it .SO the space between the two center stringers has drain holes and vent holes in the frames to allow for air and water flow from the anchor locker to the transom.Trying to keep it all as dry as possible

[woodbike]

http://gallery.bateau2.comdisplayimage. ... 415&pos=11
this is the link to the picture in my album that shows most of what we are talking about you can see the space for the tank , the tank before i coated it and the water tank in place ,EJ

[woodbike]

more pictures of the current progress. the first one is a attempt at mocking up the roof line ,I am trying to get 6.1 inches under the side pieces and around 6.3 in the center.I am working with Mahogany pieces that will be finished clear.[img]http:?albums/userpics/11415/roof%20lines.JPG
the second and thIRd ones are the aft bench being assembled and a view of the gunnels after covering them with epoxy and dynel (my new favorite material to work with ,no itching )
[img]http:/ albums/userpics/11415/decks%20glassed.JPG
[img]http:/albums/userpics/11415/aft%20seat.JPG
have a great week.ej
maybe i am stupid but I can't et this thin to paste the pictures

[Lucky_Louis]

No sweat. HTML tags can be a bugger sometimes. here you go.

the first one is a attempt at mocking up the roof line ,I am trying to get 6.1 inches under the side pieces and around 6.3 in the center.I am working with Mahogany pieces that will be finished clear.[

the second and thIRd ones are the aft bench being assembled and a view of the gunnels after covering them with epoxy and dynel (my new favorite material to work with ,no itching )

[/quote]

[fishsalmon]

Woodbike,
She is really looking good! I may have to start this winter instead of next spring. How will installation of cleats, rod holders etc work with the dynel? I always figured that was an area that would get plywood. Keep up the ggod work. Blake

[woodbike]

dynel is a polyester cloth that replaces the fiberglass cloth (feels like t-shirt material).It is so much easier to work with ,it handles curves a lot easier and when you grind it you will no itch .I would consider using a lot more of it if I ever build another boat .I would use it as a substitute for fiberglass cloth .It is more abrasion resistant and puncture resistant than glass .Actually that picture was taken before the cloth and epoxy was applied .Look in to it .
EJ

[tech_support]

As finish cloth you can substitute it, but it is not structural.