SK14 Build in NC

[Fuzz]

Your plan to fix things sounds good. But as much as I understand the desire to move on now is the time to fix all the bubbles. It might slow you down for a day but in the end it will be well worth it.

[TomW1]

Agree with Fuzz, don't go on till you fix your bubbles.

Tom

[pee wee]

Check your local drug store for syringes. Many uses for them, without the needle, of course. Veterinarians use them for dosing oral medications, etc.

I agree, best to deal with this now, even though it takes time. Cut corners elsewhere if you have to.

[huckleberry]

Sorry, didn’t mean to make it sound like I was going to skip over fixing the bubbles. Just that I was going to sand them down and patch instead of injecting them.
Last night I cut out and sanded all the bubbles that had any give in them, most were along the chines.
I should note that all bubbles are located where there are at least 2 layers of glass, 3 layers at the bow. Didn’t have any bubbles where there’s only one layer.

Pictures below. Going to do the patches tonight. Will pipe on the WF thickened epoxy and then layup the glass patches. Along the chines will probably just put a single layer of tape to catch as many spots as I can in one piece.

There’s more spots on the chine you can see in the picture that look like bubbles, but they didn’t have much or any give when poking them. Are those fine the way they are? There’s two layers glass along the entire chine.

[cape man]

Patch them all. Nice deer!

[huckleberry]

Patch them all. Nice deer!

10-4!
That’s a South Texas old man right there, aged him at 11.5yo! Got a “South Texas cull” and a pig with some mean cutters off the same ranch too.

[huckleberry]

Question on the skeg. Since a trailer is not in the plans right now and I’ll be hauling the boat in the back of my truck, I’m going to do two skegs instead of just one on the keel. Right now I’ve got them cut down to 6’ long x 1 1-3/4” wide x 3/4” tall. Tapered at the front over 6” going down to about 1/4”, will round them off towards the stern.

For location, how far off the keel should I space them and how far forward should I hold them off the stern? Transom is about 35” wide.

[Reid]

I would keep the skeg a good 16" from the transom. I would also leave the sides and back of the skeg sharp (90 degrees). This will allow the water to release better.
Another thought, if you are planning on putting your SK on a trailer eventually, maybe only attach one skeg. In the meantime you can put some temporary bunks (2'x4' boards) in your truck bed to keep the skeg from hitting. This might save you some work later on if you have to remove the two skegs and convert to one when you get a trailer.
-Reid

[TomW1]

First your skegs are to wide, cut them down to 3/4" x 3/4" That is all you need. Other wise the boat will be skiing on the larger ones. Put them about 6" out from the keel, you want them to help in straight line steering and in in turning the boat, also a foot from the transom to eliminate any turbulence in front of the motor. For hauling the boat in your pick-up get some carpet for the bottom that will lean against the truck and fasten it to the truck.

Tom

[huckleberry]

Skegs glued on and first coat of fairing applied and sanded.
Applied second round of fairing a little thicker yesterday and will sand tonight. Will post pictures of the second round later.

By the end of fairing, should I expect the entire hull to be coated in fairing compound? I faired the entire thing and filled the weave but I guess I’m asking if I should be able to see any of the wood through the thinner areas? Or should it be built up enough by the end that the entire hull is consistent with the color deeper brown color of the fairing compound?