Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 3:11 pm**

Here we go! I bought this boat a couple weeks ago and have been removing everything to the bare hull. It's been a grinding frenzy! Getting ready to start building it back up, I would more than appreciate any help or advise. A little about the boat, it's 17.5' L x 8' beam, tunnel hull, rated for a 115hp, and has a "key slot" transom.

I plan on using 100% epoxy resin and Meranti Ply for core material. For the transom, I've removed the rotten wood and ground down to bare glass. I plan on going to Houston Hardwoods to get 3/4" Meranti Hydrotech. Laminating two sheets of ply for the key transom, 1 sheet of ply for the rear knees, and 1 sheet of ply for outside transoms(sponsons) for extra beef for powerpole/trim tabs/etc. My laminating schedule I've worked up in my mind is: neat epoxy inside of skin, thicken some epoxy for any shallow spots and also add some fillets, add a layer of 1708 for extra stiffness( the existing skin as is is pretty thin), then glue my plywood with thickened epoxy. For the inside skin, I'm thinking 3 layers of tabbing - offseting 6" 12 oz biaxal tape, then 3 layers of 1708 (from biggest(8"out) to smallest(4"out)). Anyone have better recommendations for materials, layers, approach?

Thank you very much for reading along and any experience you might share with me. - Jim

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 4:34 pm**

Read your plan, sounds good, not sure what you mean by inside skin tabbing 6" biax tape offset...

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 5:03 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed May 31, 2023 4:34 pm Read your plan, sounds good, not sure what you mean by inside skin tabbing 6" biax tape offset...

Thanks Fallguy. So I'm trying to build this with as few different types of materials as possible, within reason. If ordering some different thickness or types of fiberglass is worthwhile, I'll definitely do it. You have a lot more experience than me, below is what I meant. Just trying to tab in the transom with three layers of 6" 12 oz biaxal tape, before I start glassing in the entire transom with the 1708 layers. Would you suggest a different method?

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 5:29 pm**

Here's my plan for the transom, excuse my poor mspaint skills. Never have done a transom before, any help is appreciated.

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 6:31 pm**

Tabbing would follow the glasswork.

Many ways to skin the cat. I sort of prefer 1708 tapes as they hold their shape well for transfer.

Or you can tab with the same as the skin, if u r really good.

Transom is placed, neat coated, fillet the edges and bottom and skin, but time can be an enemy and outside temps can cause trouble.

So, you can skin the transom with 1708 to the edges; then use 1708 scraps to fillet and tab; I like to go as far as possible, like 6-10" onto hull.

Posted: **Wed May 31, 2023 7:54 pm**

Thank you very much. I will do that, 1708 for all the tabbing after skinning the transom. Will cut my own tabbing tape, 12", 16" and 20".

Posted: **Wed Jun 21, 2023 10:08 am**

Looks like a great project. I did my well boat transom in the same layup with same materials. I am very happy with the structural integrity of it with a 115 four stroke also on the stern. Your hull design merits similar needs for structural ingenuity that mine did.

Posted: **Tue Jul 18, 2023 6:14 pm**

It's been slow going but got the transom laminated, just need to pretty it up when it's time. Main problem has been the heat, damn it's been hot in Houston. My slow cure hardner isn't very slow in this weather.

For the transom, I laminated 1 layer of 1708 on transom skin, then glued my transom wood in place, then three layers of 1708 for thickness, then three additional layers of 1708 for tabbing bottom, sides, and top. Feels like a shit brick house to me! Plan on hanging a 115 4 stroke on it. A bunch of you know how to make your laminations look beautiful, mine... not so much, but I trust it. Now I'm adding a layer of 1708 to skin the hull bottom for added insurance. To battle the heat, I cut the skin into sections just to give me stopping points before the epoxy sets up. After I finish this week with my bottom sections of 1708, I need to get started on the stringers. I haven't commited yet whether to go back with the three foam filled stringers as originally built, or to put in a wooden stringer system like a XF20. Any thoughts? Here's my progress photos.

Posted: **Wed Jul 19, 2023 5:40 am**

Looks good. Throw that red sharpie in the bin. That friggin red bleeds through primer and topcoat. Don't ask me why, but it shows thru everything. I don't make the rules, but I did cry a little after 3 coats of primer and I could still see red writing. It finally fades somewhere around 5 layers of paint.. yikes

Posted: **Wed Jul 19, 2023 8:25 am**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 5:40 am Looks good. Throw that red sharpie in the bin. That friggin red bleeds through primer and topcoat. Don't ask me why, but it shows thru everything. I don't make the rules, but I did cry a little after 3 coats of primer and I could still see red writing. It finally fades somewhere around 5 layers of paint.. yikes

Oh, man! Thanks for the heads up! Sorry about your project, what's your favorite pen for marking up fiberglass cloth?

Posted: **Wed Jul 19, 2023 9:47 am**

redfishjim wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 8:25 am
fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 5:40 am Looks good. Throw that red sharpie in the bin. That friggin red bleeds through primer and topcoat. Don't ask me why, but it shows thru everything. I don't make the rules, but I did cry a little after 3 coats of primer and I could still see red writing. It finally fades somewhere around 5 layers of paint.. yikes
Oh, man! Thanks for the heads up! Sorry about your project, what's your favorite pen for marking up fiberglass cloth?

Black sharpies. They will still show thru a primer coat or two, but nothin like the red. It is evil.

Posted: **Sun Aug 06, 2023 10:42 pm**

Progress has been slow but got the bottom glassed, and got the stringers put back together and trimmed up. Now on to rigging tube(s) in starboard stringer, then get the stringers tabbed and skinned with 1708, foam fill, top them with 3/4" ply, and cover the ply and top half the stringers with 17 oz biaxial. Next update should be in a couple weeks.

Posted: **Mon Aug 07, 2023 12:13 pm**

Make sure to tab the stringers to the engine box. I'm guessing you know, but seeing it not done makes me anxious! Load transfer is from the box into the hull only and it would stress crack overtime without a connection to stringer. The load transfer is supposed to go through the stringers.

Work looks really good, btw.

Posted: **Tue Aug 08, 2023 11:27 am**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 12:13 pm Make sure to tab the stringers to the engine box. I'm guessing you know, but seeing it not done makes me anxious! Load transfer is from the box into the hull only and it would stress crack overtime without a connection to stringer. The load transfer is supposed to go through the stringers.

Work looks really good, btw.

Thanks Fallguy for the reminder and the complement. Important information for sure. It'll get done.

On a seperate note, I've pretty much decided I want to cut off the rolldown gunwales from the boat and create more a flats boat look with walkable(step) gunwales, extending the deck out a couple inches from the hull. I have enough information to feel good about supporting the gunwales from inside the hull along the cockpit, but on the outside - I'm going around in circles in my head. I plan on making the deck out of 1/2" ply and covering with 17 oz biaxial. Any suggestions on where to look or what to do to create an extended gunwale that is strong enough and thick enough to screw in a rub rail? And on rub rails, any recommendations on type or brand?

Posted: **Tue Aug 08, 2023 5:00 pm**

Not sure why you'd cut down a structural element versus raising the sole.

Draw something up. Maybe it'll help.

The nicest rubrails are sold by Alan Ray of rubrails.com outta Florida. The profiles can be purchased to fit over a piece of wood if you are worried about screwing into the existing...but not sure I understand..

Posted: **Tue Aug 08, 2023 5:14 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 5:00 pm Not sure why you'd cut down a structural element versus raising the sole.

Draw something up. Maybe it'll help.

The nicest rubrails are sold by Alan Ray of rubrails.com outta Florida. The profiles can be purchased to fit over a piece of wood if you are worried about screwing into the existing...but not sure I understand..

Understood, the current gunwales aren't level, they slope downward and bother me... Reason I'm suggesting to cut them off rather than build to them, or over them, is because theyre sloping downward. Here's the look I'd like to accomplish with the top deck, side gunwales, and rear deck.

Thanks for the rub rail link, I'll check them out.

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 12:28 am**

So, by the looks of it; there are no transverse members or gunwhale frames on the original boat.

This means the doubled gunwhale provides the boat with rigidity. Think of them like upside down ceiling joists. Remove them to the sole and the boat would sag if upside down, or the ends will flex up too easily.

What do you do with a laminated beam if you want to reduce the depth? Well, you widen it.

So, depending upon how much you want to cut them down; you need to widen them or stiffen them. But the cap is structural because the cap of the gunnel (sp) combines the two sides and keeps them from flexing like two separate skinny joists.

Feel defeated? Don't, But understand; you can't cut them down and glue a board on or the boat will flex and eventually crack midships athwart,

In order to modify them; you'll need to cut them down and then build them back stronger. This means you'll need to return them to a uniform piece and a single structure.

I would recommend you consider just widening them. If you cut them down; you'll want to grind the outside of the hull to an allowable amount or you'll need to glass and cover the tabbing with the new rubrail. Then; you'd need to add the inside vertical piece. But it might be easier to not cut them down and build them up to even; maintaining the original structure that supports the hullsides and keeps them from flopping out.

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 11:44 am**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 09, 2023 12:28 am So, by the looks of it; there are no transverse members or gunwhale frames on the original boat.

This means the doubled gunwhale provides the boat with rigidity. Think of them like upside down ceiling joists. Remove them to the sole and the boat would sag if upside down, or the ends will flex up too easily.

What do you do with a laminated beam if you want to reduce the depth? Well, you widen it.

So, depending upon how much you want to cut them down; you need to widen them or stiffen them. But the cap is structural because the cap of the gunnel (sp) combines the two sides and keeps them from flexing like two separate skinny joists.

Feel defeated? Don't, But understand; you can't cut them down and glue a board on or the boat will flex and eventually crack midships athwart,

In order to modify them; you'll need to cut them down and then build them back stronger. This means you'll need to return them to a uniform piece and a single structure.

I would recommend you consider just widening them. If you cut them down; you'll want to grind the outside of the hull to an allowable amount or you'll need to glass and cover the tabbing with the new rubrail. Then; you'd need to add the inside vertical piece. But it might be easier to not cut them down and build them up to even; maintaining the original structure that supports the hullsides and keeps them from flopping out.

Thanks for the explanation. I'm pretty clear what your telling me. I like the idea of using the orginal structure and build the inside section of the gunwales up to even. Raises a new question, what would be the easiest way to level the existing doubled gunwhale? This picture kinda shows what I'd like to do if we could level out the existing doubled gunwale, courtesy of Chris Morejohn.

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 8:14 pm**

Need to know how much you need to do to make it level.

The easiest way is to use a solid core...something like 12-20 pounds per cubic foot...core lite board would work nice and is rigid enough to hold its shape. Then you glass over it..

The 1.5 oz mat is not strong enough for that joint. The top gets a minimum of 12 oz biax, can't read the drawing..

If you are not supporting the extended inwhale vertically; then you'll need to glass the bottom and top with 1708 and heavy 1708 tabbing

Sorry, but the drawing is too blurry.

To build it level; we assume the sole has not changed and dwl is same as original? Then use a laser and draw a laser line all the way around the inside of the boat, or build blocks of corelite board to get the heights.

Oh, shit. I just realized the outwhale will be wonky as f this way.

Hmmm.

Okay, I did not realize the gunwhale was open on the outside. You can cut it, but you need to replace it. So cut it to a reasonable dimension, and then rebuild it using core. You will really like corelite.

The hull to deck interface will be easier to do. I can draw a detail.

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 8:25 pm**

Use as a discussion point.

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 8:31 pm**

To save some money; you could try to save the ouwhale. Cut it off vertically, then bond it back to corelite..

Posted: **Wed Aug 09, 2023 8:48 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 09, 2023 8:31 pm To save some money; you could try to save the ouwhale. Cut it off vertically, then bond it back to corelite..

Thank you very much for the sketch and additional information. I got some decisions to make. You've been a great help.

Posted: **Mon Aug 21, 2023 12:05 pm**

Progress update. Last week I got my rigging tube(s) installed in the starboard stringer, and got the stringers tabbed in. I have foam and additional resin showing up this week. My plan is to fill all the stringers up with foam, add another layer of 1708 over them for my piece of mind, top them with resin coated 3/4" cedar planks, and maybe top the planks with a layer of 17oz as well.

Posted: **Mon Sep 18, 2023 11:35 pm**

Hey Hey, stringers are done! Filled them up with foam, topped them with 3/4" sanded cedar pickets, and glassed with 1708 to finish them out. They feel good and strong. Bought some 1/2" ply today for the deck at Houston Hardwoods, love going there, what a place. Was looking over their price sheet and saw "Fuma", cheaper marine ply I've never noticed before. Checked it out and decided to give it a try. Seems like good plywood to me, same amount of layers as Hydrotech, outer skin looks like Okoume, see how it goes! If weather stays like this might get some good progress over the next few weeks. Thanks for following!

Posted: **Fri Sep 22, 2023 7:48 am**

Thanks for an early smile with the kid photo.

As long as the plywood gets closed with 12 oz glass n epoxy; it should work.

Not familiar with fuma, but googled it an it says flame retardent.

Posted: **Fri Sep 22, 2023 1:54 pm**

Nice looking deck. And good to see the kids involved too.

Posted: **Sun Dec 17, 2023 10:16 pm**

I got a bit distracted by deer season, but my drive to get this boat finished is now main goal. Got the deck filled with foam and laminated the deck, front, and sides with 17 oz biaxal. I did cut the fold down gunwales off, just kept looking at them... I just like the flats boat walkable sides too much. Got the decks and gunwales roughed in today. About to invite the neighborhood over to help flip this girl.
Thinking Awlgrip Haze Gray, inside and out. I'll lighten up the topside with the cool gray SeaDek that I'll stensil in. Here's the progress pics.

Posted: **Tue Jan 02, 2024 1:26 pm**

We're getting there... Some topside lamination, got the boat flipped, and have begun fairing. Hoping to prime this weekend if it's warm enough. Bottom is in pretty good shape, just a bunch of small rash that needs filling. The transom will require the most amount of love. Here's some progress pics.

Happy New Year!

Posted: **Fri Jan 26, 2024 8:35 am**

Spent quite a bit of time filling, fairing, and sanding the last couple weeks. Finally had a window above 50 deg and I was able to shoot my primer on last night. Not perfect, still have some pinholes that need filling, and a couple spots that I should fair, but it feels good to have the boat all one color. Hoping to shoot Awlgrip in the next couple weeks.

Posted: **Fri Jan 26, 2024 9:57 am**

Nice work!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jan 26, 2024 10:24 am**

The fresh coat of paint and the lighting really show off the shape of the hull bottom. I don't know anything about those boats, but I can't remember ever seeing one shaped quite like that one with the semi-tunnel and the angled edges. What are these boats known for doing well? The name Shoalwater suggests going shallow, where do you plan to use it?

Posted: **Sun Jan 28, 2024 7:39 pm**

Thanks Jeff. Hank, the hull does a couple things thing very well, and that's get shallow and hold a bunch of weight for its size (very wide - 8' beam). I plan on running it all over the Texas gulf coast marsh for reds, flounder, and trout. Then taking it to freshwater lakes for family camping trips. If you get caught in a chop, it's not going to be nice... trip planning to avoid getting caught in open water is expected. Sight fishing reds in shallow water is the most enjoyable trip for me, this boat fits the bill for around here. Shoalwater, Majek, Haynie, Transport, and Shallow Sport are some of the main Texas manufacturers that are specialized for Texas bays.

It'll be rigged with a 6" jackplate and 115 ProXS Mercury.

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2024 2:05 pm**

Spent a day sanding down ther primer, started with 120 grit to knock down the big bumps, then went to 240 to just about eliminate any remnance of the graphite powder guide coat, then went to 400 for a final sand. Hit all the little imperfections with some glazing compound . Was going to spray topcoat on Sunday but wind was blowing over 20 mph. Next nice day, she'll be glossy!

Posted: **Wed Feb 07, 2024 7:55 pm**

It is looking good except for one thing. You have run the skeg all the way back to the tunnel. This is an absolute design fault. You need to cut the skeg off 18" in front of the tunnel, this will prevent the skeg from introducing disturbed water into the tunnel.

Tom

Posted: **Wed Feb 07, 2024 8:55 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 7:55 pm It is looking good except for one thing. You have run the skeg all the way back to the tunnel. This is an absolute design fault. You need to cut the skeg off 18" in front of the tunnel, this will prevent the skeg from introducing disturbed water into the tunnel.

Tom

I agree with the main point. The grammar is a bit rough.

That skeg or strake, as placed, will introduce areated water to the tunnel. And the air will reduce prop efficiency and can result in blowout as the prop spins in air and achieves high rpm without effect.

Good catch Tom

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2024 12:33 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 8:55 pm
TomW1 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 7:55 pm It is looking good except for one thing. You have run the skeg all the way back to the tunnel. This is an absolute design fault. You need to cut the skeg off 18" in front of the tunnel, this will prevent the skeg from introducing disturbed water into the tunnel.

Tom
I agree with the main point. The grammar is a bit rough.

That skeg or strake, as placed, will introduce areated water to the tunnel. And the air will reduce prop efficiency and can result in blowout as the prop spins in air and achieves high rpm without effect.

Good catch Tom

Well..., shit...lol. At this point of the game, might just pretend you didn't just say that. Makes complete sense what you're saying, I'm thinking...

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 3:11 am**

Just grind off 18-36" of the one that runs into the box. We've seen issues with them before where the guy can't even open the engine up.

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 12:18 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 3:11 am Just grind off 18-36" of the one that runs into the box. We've seen issues with them before where the guy can't even open the engine up.

I appreciate your comments, I have 17 oz biaxial and 1708, what would you use? and how many layers would you go with the patch? 3,4,5? Using 100% epoxy.

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 12:52 pm**

Hang on. Did you add that or was it in there from the factory?

While I agree with the statements, if the FACTORY had the skeg/strake that far back I’m not sure we should be so fast to recommend cutting it off. It’s probably the right thing, but why would the factory do it wrong?

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:49 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 12:52 pm Hang on. Did you add that or was it in there from the factory?

While I agree with the statements, if the FACTORY had the skeg/strake that far back I’m not sure we should be so fast to recommend cutting it off. It’s probably the right thing, but why would the factory do it wrong?

It's factory. Been running this way since 1988. Never heard of any issues with this hull, but some of you guys know a hell of a lot more about these boats than I do.

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 3:27 pm**

See, that makes me wonder if changing it is smart. General wisdom is that the skeg should term 18” forward of the tunnel. But 40yrs of practical usage says that maybe this location has been accounted for in the design.

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 5:46 pm**

Jaysen a lot has been learned in the past 30+ years on tunnels and what should be led into them. Jacques explained it well on one of his tunnel designs. All the tunnels he designed in the last few years followed current practice and had the keel/skeg end short of the tunnel.

Tom

Posted: **Fri Feb 09, 2024 10:04 pm**

Congratulations on missing the point. If redfishjim has 40yrs using boat with no issues, is it worth the risk of changing the boat’s known behavior simply because “a lot has been learned”. I’m not saying that the ideal of 18” clean isn’t best but that making that change may cause changes to handling or other areas of performance. I’m not saying it will. I’m saying we don’t know.

Redfishjim, your call. I don’t think there’s certain harm. I don’t think there certain benefit either. I would be ready to rebuild the section you remove should you find there’s negative impacts from it.

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2024 5:16 am**

All his work is improving the boat. Keeping a clean flow into the tunnel is a sure improvement.

Removing it needs careful thought.

I thought you added the thing,

See if you can tell if the skegs are separate from tbe hull skin or integrated before you do more.

Let us know.

Jaysen and Tom are both correct, though. If the skeg is an added piece; you grind it off and use mat and epoxy to repair any low areas made hy grinding. If the hull skin is other than flat; we'd need to know before you grind it off.

If it is an added piece like it looks; that is easy.

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2024 10:37 am**

The skeg is integrated with the hull. There's no added wooden board on top of the hull skill. The skeg was part of the hull mold when this was built. Here's a pic that shows from the interior.

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2024 1:22 pm**

I don’t know that I’d be too quick to cut that. Did you put a stringer in that interior channel?

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2024 5:40 pm**

The only way to cut that is to do major reconstruction; so leave it.

But it is a design flaw in the hull.

If you ever experience prop blowout at top speed or inability to get to wot; you'll know the reason..

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2024 3:12 am**

I appreciate the feedback, if the skeg topic came up a month ago, it'd be altered. But with the boat all sanded up ready for paint, the choice was easy for me. We got a shiny Matterhorn white boat now. I went a bit heavy on my 3rd coat, maybe sprayed a bit too quickly after the 2nd, and got a couple sags, not quite done before it gets flipped back over.

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2024 5:51 am**

Oh hell yes! That is awesome! Way to go!

I stayed out of the skeg discussion, but fully agree with your decision.

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2024 9:18 am**

Painting is a critical milestone. Congrats.

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2024 9:20 am**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2024 5:40 pm The only way to cut that is to do major reconstruction; so leave it.

But it is a design flaw in the hull.

If you ever experience prop blowout at top speed or inability to get to wot; you'll know the reason..

If you experience blowout; you might be able to deal with it by inching down; so a hydraulic jackplate that'll go minus would be a no hull correction solution to the potential problem that may not exist at all!

Posted: **Fri Apr 19, 2024 10:31 am**

Ben a bit since my last update. Waited a couple weeks to flip the boat back over after painting. Since, I've been working on storage areas, plumbing ideas, and deck hatches. Couple decisions that have slowed me down a bit; making a livewell infront of the keyhole transom(still not quite finished0, and making my own deck hatches via Willg's method shown in his PH18 build and added directions shared on the phone. Big thanks to Will, I absolutely destroyed a perfectly good sheet of ply, and about had an emotional breakdown over it before he set me straight...lol. Drilling transom holes had me nervous as a cat too! Luckily holes are square and seem to be centered.

I have the undersides of my decks epoxied up with 3 coats, gunwales just got glued in. Next, before I glue in my front and aft decks, I have to paint my storage compartments. I can almost see the end!

Pics:

Posted: **Sat Apr 20, 2024 9:15 am**

redfishjim wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 10:31 am Drilling transom holes had me nervous as a cat too! Luckily holes are square and seem to be centered.

The holes look round to me! LoL, I can't tell from the photo how you handled the holes in the transom, but be sure you seal up that plywood well. It's a pain to do, but drilling out the holes oversize and filling them with epoxy/filler and coming back after it's set to drill the correct size holes will be the surest way. Of course, that also means needing to touchup paint. Drilling them a bit oversize and painting neat epoxy in there with a little brush is easier but more prone to missing spots, and water loves to find those spots.

All that is optional, of course, but highly recommended.

Great job on the hatches, btw, they look fabulous!

Posted: **Mon Apr 22, 2024 11:53 am**

Nice progress!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Apr 25, 2024 2:35 pm**

Thanks Jeff and peewee. Peewee, I'll drill the transom holes a size bigger and brush in some epoxy, i like that idea.

I like to try new products as much as I can, so for the bow compartment I figured I try some brush on Interlux Perfection. Actually first time I've ever brushed in any paint on a boat. Flowed great and I overlapped 3 layers on top of eachother with 45min-hr separation. Below's a pic after the first coat. Took three layers for full coverage. Changed my whole perspective on brushing in paint, flowed great, no brush marks or bubbles. Being late to news like normal, I go online to buy more Perfection thinking, hell, I'll just do the whole topside with it. Find out Perfection's been discontinued and I can't find it anywhere, lol! So the plan is to finish the topside with Awlgrip, but with brush converter/reducer.

Next comes the rear compartment. Finally got it primed, but still have some ugly spots that need some love. Not looking for perfect since it's below deck, but got to have some quality control.

Question for the forum. I'm using 1/2" ply for the front deck, do I need to install more framing or do you think the deck support in the below pic is good enough? Bottom of the 1/2" ply has 3 coats of epoxy, top of the deck is to received a layer of 16 oz biaxal and fairing.

Posted: **Mon Apr 29, 2024 3:29 pm**

Productive weekend! On Saturday, I glued and screwed some additional framing to the underside of the front deck. Sunday i was able to install the front deck and start attacking my final trim boards inside the cockpit and outside the hull.

Posted: **Tue May 28, 2024 4:25 pm**

Houston weather has been nuts lately! But I'm still slowing making progress. Got the back compartments painted. Trim tabs are installed. Got the deck glued and fastened in, and was able to get all my trim pieces added over the weekend. Next step is to prep for final glass on the decks. No more wood is going to be added to the boat, I think it'll shape out how I imagined. Really excited to get her finished.

Here's some progress pics.

Posted: **Tue May 28, 2024 8:51 pm**

Getting close! Looks amazing.

Posted: **Wed May 29, 2024 8:43 am**

Nice progress!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed May 29, 2024 1:15 pm**

Thank you, much appreciated. Kids are getting antsie, it's time to go fishing. Feels good putting the last layer of glass on.

Posted: **Wed Jun 12, 2024 3:22 pm**

Spent the last couple weekends doing other things but I've managed to get the boat deck fiberglassed and ready for fairing. Should be able to make good progress this weekend.

Posted: **Thu Jun 13, 2024 8:49 am**

Nice!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2024 9:45 pm**

Thanks, Jeff. One year into this, I've about had my fill of arts and crafts in the garage.

Happy Father's Day, to all the dads here. Hope you had a great Sunday!

Boat's all smooth, let's get some primer on her and see what we got.

Posted: **Sun Jun 23, 2024 3:42 am**

The boat has a ton of pin holes and other minor blemishes to fix, but we're getting close to final paint!

Posted: **Sun Jun 23, 2024 9:43 am**

Looks like you're ready to move on, it looks good in the photos!

If you are a glutton for finish work, a product that has been highly recommended to deal with pin holes is Kombi Putty: https://www.myrefinishportal.com/us/en/ ... -200g.html

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2024 8:44 am**

I've had very good luck with Kombi putty. Put a dab on with your finger, smooth it with putty knife, and sand it 10 minutes later. Sands very easily. It's reddish colored so I always put a bit of primer over treated areas.

Dougster

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2024 9:46 am**

I'll give the putty a shot! Ordering now. Thanks for the recommendation.

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2024 7:54 pm**

Lol, Houston, we got a problem. Doing some fitting this afternoon and had a DOUGHHHH!!! moment. The damn resevoir/pump to my bob's jackplate is an inch too tall. Only thing I know to do, and all along kinda wanted to do, is sell this one, and buy an action series jackplate. No nonskid on the deck because im doing seadek everywhere. Girls loved the snow camo sample, so that's what we're doing.
Embossed texture. My 6 sheets are coming in next week, need to get rolling!

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2024 7:49 am**

Richard ran into the same issue with his Bare Bones FS18
He fixed it by installing a round deck cap raised just enough to clear the top of the pump motor. His wasn't under a hatch, but it should work if you don't want to change the Jack Plate. Looks like you only need 1/2 an inch?

[https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... &mode=view]

Posted: **Sat Aug 10, 2024 10:35 pm**

Looks like the well nearby would work; just make a tray?

Posted: **Tue Aug 13, 2024 4:36 pm**

You're right, Fallguy, but I just don't like the idea of the pump being in the wettest part of the boat. So I splurged... I have an action series bobs heading my way! Has me rethinking the powerpole to, I just might have to give a minnkota talon a shot. No hydraulic pumps in the rear compartments sounds pretty dang nice!

I started moving the console and leaning post into position to finalize positions. Never really liked the OG console, but didn't hate it. Well on Saturday, after looking at it for long enough to feel anxious, I said screw it, I'm building a console! Made the trip into town, got my plywood, made a quick design on sketchup. Got it cut, glued, sanded, routered, and sanded some more. Hoping to have this thing fiberglassed, faired, and primed by the end of the week.

Anybody need an center console or standard bob's jackplate? They're for sale.

Posted: **Tue Aug 13, 2024 11:51 pm**

Not sure what u got planned for the cc, but typically, you’d keep a small sill or wall or threshold say 2” high to keep out rainwater.

Posted: **Sat Aug 17, 2024 9:16 pm**

You're right, but I just followed what most the Texas builders do and just leave it open without a sill there. If it causes a problem, I'll stew on it for years and will come up with something eventually.

I'm planning on glassing the console to the deck. Any thoughts if I can get away with gluing the console to the deck with fillets on both sides and glassing just the inside, or do I really need to glass both in and out? I still have a bunch of 1708 cut up in 8in tape.

Typical Texas flats center console.

Posted: **Sun Aug 18, 2024 10:24 am**

You can roll the dice on that. It’ll probably be fine no tabbing out. But part of the reason for a sill is it also allows tabbing on all sides, along with less chance for water intrusion.

Posted: **Tue Aug 27, 2024 9:03 am**

Couple steps closer. Over the weekend, got the console primed and got the jackplate installed. Big week coming. Motor is getting installed Saturday!

Posted: **Tue Aug 27, 2024 9:26 am**

Really nice work!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Aug 31, 2024 1:41 pm**

Thanks, Jeff, she's slowly coming together.

Got one step closer to hitting the water. Got the motor hung this morning. Enjoying my day of college football, will hit the boat hard the next couple days.

Happy Labor Day Weekend everyone!

Posted: **Sat Aug 31, 2024 8:45 pm**

I’m a little nervous she’s gonna porpoise for you. If it does, just add a whale tail. Looking great. Dan

Posted: **Sat Aug 31, 2024 9:44 pm**

We'll see how she runs. With prop work, trim tabs, and a cavitation plate, plenty of ways to remedy purposing. I'm not looking to get 50 mph out this boat, but I am looking to get up on plane in very shallow flats and drains. To counter the larger outboard, I've moved the console up 10", and got rid of any batteries in rear compartment. It'll be fun tinkering to get her dialed in.

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2024 11:01 am**

Nice work Jim. If you want I can run your numbers through my prop calculators and come up with a prop number for you. I would recommend a 4-blade prop for you. Now I would need some numbers from you. Most important is weight of the boat as it sits at the dock ready to go without the motor. That means all the gear, ice, coolers, weight of the boat, passengers, batteries, fuel and tank, and any extras you might have on her. Then give me what motor you are using; I have all the specs for all the brands and will add that to the total weight you give me.

It looks like this is a flat bottom boat, does it have a tunnel?

Tom

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2024 1:21 pm**

Very cool, Tom. I have a couple leads on props, one being Baumann here in houston, other being Powertech. Baumann thinks their 3 blade blaster series in 16p(double cupped) is the starting point. Powertech thinks their SWW4 prop in 14p is the answer. I'm really curious what you come up with, thanks.

Boat:1100lbs, 25 gallons fuel: 150lbs, 2 anglers: 500 lbs, jackplate: 50lbs, trolling motor: 50lbs, batteries/chargers: 150lbs, coolers/ice: 50lbs, mk talon: 25lbs, +50lbs extra for misc.
= 2,125 lbs total (boat, gear, people, excludes motor)

Motor: 2023 2.1L 115hp ProXS, Standard lower unit (not Command Thrust), weight: 359lbs

Top priority in a prop: hole shot & grip

Posted: **Thu Sep 05, 2024 4:09 pm**

Jim here is what my calculations show. For a 3 blade a 13.5 x 16 double cup would work. A 4-blade in 13.5 x 14 would be my recommendation. If your going shallow the 4-blade would be the better choice for you. It will allow you to raise the motor an inch or two higher than the three blade. Your top speed with that Merc 115 worked out to mid 40's. Total boat weight ended up at 2505lbs with motor, prop and fluids. When you are talking to Powertech ask them about their 4-blade RXB prop it has some moderate rake and cup to get up faster. Rake and cup helps hold water on the prop, it is a 13.25 do to rake and cup. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Tom

Posted: **Tue Sep 17, 2024 8:39 pm**

Great stuff, Tom. I've had a RXB4 on a previous boat, Hewes Redfisher 18 with 115 Suzuki. Great all around prop. Thank you very much for working up the numbers.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2024 1:28 pm**

It's creeping to the finish line. Got the rubrail installed over weekend with the help from a buddy. Went with the Taco Suproflex, found a "used-good" deal on Amazon. Easy to install, I'm a fan! Adds a nice level of finish. Console is tabbed in, paint next.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2024 3:30 pm**

I like the looks of what you have done! Clean and simple=very nice.

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2024 2:34 pm**

Been a hell of a month with bow season, football, and family events. Haven't knocked the boat out like I wished to but made some progress the last couple of weekends. Hatch hardware finished, center console got sprayed, and I got my feet wet with some seadek installation on the bow. Charlie, one of our twins, is soo excited to get this finished. She's been a great help and kept me going.

This week, hoping to get the main deck painted, and Seadek finsihed.

Then on to rigging!

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2024 11:17 pm**

Is that going to be her boat that she lets you drive sometimes

Posted: **Thu Nov 14, 2024 12:50 pm**

Lol, she's got big plans! As long as she wants to go, I'll make it happen!

The boat's come a long way. Painting is finished!

Posted: **Thu Nov 14, 2024 3:47 pm**

If you can see your reflection when taking pictures that is a dang good finish, and I see yours in a couple of those pictures!

Posted: **Mon Dec 16, 2024 10:10 pm**

Just fastened the fuel tank down and screwed down the leaning post. It's finished. Well finished enough...still some nice little things I have planned, like gas struts on my hatches, chartplotter, powerpole, better coolers, it goes on and on lol.
Thanks for the support and the platform to share my rebuild. Jim

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2024 5:34 am**

Gorgeous! Can't wait to see her on the water! Bet she flies. You should be beaming with pride!

Here in Florida we have to have a space between the letters and the numbers on the hull registration. Ask me how I know? Texas may be different...

Again, gorgeous!!.

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2024 8:25 am**

Wow!

That turned an ugly duckling into a really nice looking boat!

I can't believe those bicycles don't have more dust on them, you must have cleaned up.

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2024 8:28 am**

cape man wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2024 5:34 am Gorgeous! Can't wait to see her on the water! Bet she flies. You should be beaming with pride!

Here in Florida we have to have a space between the letters and the numbers on the hull registration. Ask me how I know? Texas may be different...

Again, gorgeous!!.

Oh man, good catch about the Registration #s, never crossed my mind. I'm guessing you got written up after a build for not having the "space"? I just looked back through all my boat pics while in Florida, all had the "space". Here in Texas, checking Facebook marketplace, atleast half don't have the space. Lots of folks including me now are flirting with the law in Texas it seems.

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2024 8:29 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2024 8:25 am Wow!

That turned an ugly duckling into a really nice looking boat!

I can't believe those bicycles don't have more dust on them, you must have cleaned up.

They've been cleaned up a few times, lol. Everytime I wanted to work, had to go through a 5 minute pull everything out of the garage routine.

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2024 4:10 am**

Looks great. Let us know when u splash it.

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2024 10:08 pm**

Got home kinda early, and got after it. Motor started right up and ran it on the muffs for about 20 min. Jumped in the truck and hit Lake Conroe right at dark for the sea trial. Motor ran great. Being in the break in period, I never got over 4500 rpms but did plenty of playing with trim/jp/tabs. The double cupped prop with the 115 has some serious juice getting on plain, can't wait to really punch it. No surprises I had to figure out, just a nice ride. Even hopped on the trolling motor to make sure that was square. Going fishing this weekend if the weather cooperates. Fun times!

Posted: **Thu Dec 19, 2024 5:21 am**

Right off the showroom floor!!

Posted: **Thu Dec 19, 2024 12:37 pm**

Great looking boat!!!

Posted: **Thu Dec 19, 2024 8:11 pm**

Very nice! Always a good thing when everything works right. It would seem the kids approve also

Posted: **Sun Dec 22, 2024 11:45 am**

The boat has been formally christened! Girls got to tug on some redfish before they got too cold and the fun kinda ended lol. Boat did great.

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2024 5:56 pm**

Nice fish. Where did u get the reds?

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