Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

shine wrote:Nice tank Such a good feeling having a new tanks and lines

Next question, I was thinking of using the scored divinycell to try and keep the bow that goes across the top of the deck. Sound like a good plan? Or just use ply? Or another suggerstion? For the cleats and all, I will be putting plywood doublers afterward. As best I could measure the factory stuff was 3/8" thick.

Divinycell would certainly lighten up the boat vs. what was there originally.

For rod holders and such, you really should insert the plywood with the foam core, before you glass over. The reason for the plywood it to give your deck more compression strength. If you just put them on underneath after glassing, then the top skin could still compress. Another alternative is to transition to singles skin and double the glass in those spots, that is what you do on the bottom of a cored boat in places where you have through hulls. You simply bevel the foam core back a few inches back from the outside edge of the hardware. You then use backing plates

The new tank was a great feeling, kind of a shame to cover it in coal-tar! thats certainly a product that lives up to its name.


No rod holders or anything here, it's just the very front deck, I'll transition for ply in place for the bow cleats, should be relatively easy. Thanks for the heads up!

About time for an update. Had some time off work so got some stuff done to the boat. Finished putting fresh core in the front deck and reglassed the upped and lower halfs together. Had some issues with the top glass being delaminated, but it was ground out and reglassed. Will do the finish work on that when the rest boat gets it. Placed the front deck in the boat to help keep the boats shape. Had to pursuade it a little bit, but it's taking shape back now.

Also put fresh core in the rear decks, which was much easier as it was such a smaller area, filled some huge speaker holes that were cut as well. (n/m the speckles, thats from the oak trees which are driving me nuts right now, and that blob isn't a bubble, just glare)



Installed some chase tubes (on both sides) for engine hardware, and front nav lites. Also installed feed thru's for the fuel hoses. Didn't like some glass work on that stringer top (cosmetic) so that will need to get redone.



here you can see the tank when I was done with it. After glassing it, the entire top got coat tarred again and down into the chase tube channels just to assure that no water would ever creep in.



Next question is, I'm getting close getting ready for a floor, would you reattach the factory liner together, then just attach the floor to that, or attach the floor to the sides of the boat, then attach the factory liner sides to the floor? Or do you have a better method?

Also, I was going to use the pre-glassed nida-core panels you have listed in the store, are those something you stock, or is there a lead time on it? And what thickness should I go with?

it looks like you left the liner in and also left a lip of the old sole/deck. How to put the new sole down depend on the the level of the lip and the thickness of the new core material. The easiest thing to do is to run the new sole over top the lip, epoxy glue it down, then tab the core to the sides/liner with a fillet/biax joint

are those something you stock, or is there a lead time on it? And what thickness should I go with?

we have the 20mm in stock. 3M stopped making them for some reason, so the supply we have is all that we can get.

shine wrote:it looks like you left the liner in and also left a lip of the old sole/deck. How to put the new sole down depend on the the level of the lip and the thickness of the new core material. The easiest thing to do is to run the new sole over top the lip, epoxy glue it down, then tab the core to the sides/liner with a fillet/biax joint

are those something you stock, or is there a lead time on it? And what thickness should I go with?

we have the 20mm in stock. 3M stopped making them for some reason, so the supply we have is all that we can get.

I just have the sides in there to help keep the shape, they are just laying there. Eventually I'd like to attach it with glass instead of the factory just running 1000 screws thru it

I'm guessing just cut the lower glass off to remove whats left of the old balsa core then?

and quit making them!? whats the alternative? Trying to stay light, as these boats floors sit relatively low, otherwise I would go plywood. I'll need 3 sheets, guess I'll have to make my order soon. I'll pick em up though, shipping would be killer

I'm guessing just cut the lower glass off to remove whats left of the old balsa core then?

thats right, you just need a lip to bed the new sole to, doesn't have to be as wide as what you have now

whats the alternative? Trying to stay light

Make your own with core/glass...... it can be honeycomb or foam core

Shine, do you still have the prefinished panels in stock? I need to order 3, as well as some other goodies. I'd like to come pick them up.

Hi Mike

We do! Just let me know when you plan to stop by

Joel

shine wrote:Hi Mike

We do! Just let me know when you plan to stop by

Joel

Just ordered panels with a few other items, will be by Monday before lunch sometime

Got the panels picked up, they are very easy to work with. Got them cut to fit, here's a quick pic of the fit up:



Question on these, I'm thinking I'll just put the floor in as one piece, are the panels prepped by just scuffing the surface? I was just going to use 2 layers of 17 or 18oz biax to tab them together (both sides), is this sufficient? Also, do the edges all the way around need to be filled with thickened epoxy, or is that more for center areas (like for access panel holes and the seams)?

Question on these, I'm thinking I'll just put the floor in as one piece, are the panels prepped by just scuffing the surface?

Yes, hit them with some aggressive grit paper or even a grinder

ideally the seams will butt up over a frame or stringer, then all you need to do is glass over the top.

If its not possible to have seams over the frames/stringers, then yes, you need to glass both sides. 2 x 17 oz is more than enough. Staggering the overlaps of the glass will make it stronger and easier to fair