AR15 questions about dimentions

Sail Boats 15' and up. Please include the boat type in your question.
ArizonaBuilder
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Re: AR15 questions about dimentions

Post by ArizonaBuilder »

CO6AKA wrote:Hello! I start to draw plan on ply. I have questions about some sizes. I will ask about it at this topic.

1. I need full length of front and rear stringer. From edge to edge. Rear stringer mast be something about 1460mm or so as I hope. it is dimentios from back wall of CB case to transome. I need size from front wall of BC case to bow.
I don't have metric plans, however if you look a D230/6 in the top right corner you will see the dimensions for the stringers. The length is the addition of the "2' Typ" sections and the final value. So I calculated that the front stringer is 4' 10 7/8". The rear stringer is 4' 9 1/4". I will let you convert the values to metric.
CO6AKA wrote: 2. I need dimention fron BL (Base line) of transome to lower egde of rudder. Or from sole lever at transome to lower edge of rudder.
Becouse I don't know where I can plce rudders pintles and gudgeons and how deep rudder ander water. Acctualy I need submersion of rudder from BL. I need it becouse I plan halliard to pull up and down the rudder and becouse of this I change a little rudder case.
If you look at sheet E230/8 you will see the vertical position of the rudder in relation to the bottom of the transom. The transom is 1' 11 3/8" and the top section of the rudder is 1' 11 7/8". It looks like the top section of the rudder is about parrallel to the bottom of the boat. Don't worry too much about the exact position. Build the rudder and hang it off the back of the transon and mark your pintle locations basically where Jacques has them in the drawings. Position is not that critical. The actual bottom of the rudder is roughly 2' 1" below bottom of the boat.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

ArizonaBuilder
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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

I haven't worked out the math, but the error may be from the fact that B230/5 shows drawing the seat sides from the baseline and how to calculate the required 99 degree angle, but the baseline distance to the sole is different for frame D and E because the sole is slanted to give you a self draining cockpit.

The important pieces of information are the width of the sole and the 99 degree slant of the seat sides. Just make sure the 99 degree line when it crosses the line for the sole is the proper distance from the centerline.

After that you can draw the angle at the top edge of the seat.

You should be able to check your measurements because you know the width of the sole, the height of the seat sides and the width of the seat tops at the frame locations. You may have to draw out the seat tops to get the exact measurement so you can compare them to the distance on the frames.

Looking at the D230/4 the distance is greater on Frame D from BL to sole than on frame E, so if you follow the directions on B230/5 you will get a larger width for frame D at sole level.

Jacques will probably have to check the instructions on B230/5 and see that if they are followed you will get different widths at sole level due to the fact that the distance from the baseline to sole is different for the two frames.

I hope this helps.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

ArizonaBuilder
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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

Where is my mistake? And how to correct it? I have to cut overply somewhere.. should I cut station E or sole?
I didn't answer how to fix the problem. Since the width of the sole in the frames is narrower than the width of the sole, I would draw a sole line on the frame so it extended the true width of the sole. The line will probably extend a little farther than you actually cut. From these points I would draw a parrallel line to the seat sides up to the top of the frame and also redraw the seat edge line. So this will give you your new cut lines, but before cutting I would make sure that the width for the sole is correct and the distance for the seat sides are correct and the same for the seat edge and top.

You should be fine because your sole width was less than the actual width needed for the sole.

Warning this may not be the case for the AR15.
Note: the actual cut out in the frames for the sole is usually 1/4" wider in total than the sole width. This gives you 1/8" clearance on each side of the sole for it to drop nicely in place.

Tip:
When drawing out any piece it is wise to check your dimensions against other pieces that will connect at that point to insure that you haven't made a mistake while drawing out the part. Measure/Check 3 times, Cut Once.

:) :)
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

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