Joel,
I used System 3 primer and paint three years ago and in a year or so I may want to repaint my hull exterior. If I want to use sterling do I need to get all the system 3 topcoat off or just sanded well? I would not mind using that high build primer to get my hull a little more fair before using their top coat. What do you think? Can I sand lightly, prime heavy and sand fair, and then paint? Thanks in advance.
Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
Jim Wright
CC, D15, SC16, C19
CC, D15, SC16, C19
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Jim,
You might be able to tell in the tutorial, I put the Sterling high build primer over System Three primer. On the test canoe, I wasn’t sure what paint I was going to use, so I had a couple coats of S3 on there before the Sterling.
The sterling application guide says “Surfaces previously coated with linear polyurethane or epoxy, need only be sanded with 220 grit….before applying Sterling primersâ€
You might be able to tell in the tutorial, I put the Sterling high build primer over System Three primer. On the test canoe, I wasn’t sure what paint I was going to use, so I had a couple coats of S3 on there before the Sterling.
The sterling application guide says “Surfaces previously coated with linear polyurethane or epoxy, need only be sanded with 220 grit….before applying Sterling primersâ€
In other words, the System Three primer is epoxy and since you can apply Sterling over epoxy, it works.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re:
So does this mean you can put a Sterling top coat directly over the S3 Silvertip Epoxy Highbuild Yacht Primer as well?
Also, can someone point me to the Sterling Application Guide?
Also, can someone point me to the Sterling Application Guide?
jacquesmm wrote:In other words, the System Three primer is epoxy and since you can apply Sterling over epoxy, it works.
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Re: Re:
That is exactly correctbccelizabeth wrote:So does this mean you can put a Sterling top coat directly over the S3 Silvertip Epoxy Highbuild Yacht Primer as well?
Also, can someone point me to the Sterling Application Guide?
The application guide is a booklet, we have some here and will include one in any order you place just request one in the "comment" box at checkout. We did make a pretty long tutorial on Sterling...
http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/ste ... ll_tip.php
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Re: Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
Thanks Shine -- I did read the tutorial and watch the vid, great tutorial, I posted about it on my blog actually.
I have already invested a few hundred into some Sterling products, in small quantities. My job is larger than my paint supply. I currently have a qt of 4749 and 4748. A quart of 94-1000 and catalyst, 2 quarts of 2 different top coat colors which are not the color I want and a quart each of: 2965, 2964 and 1289. I wouldn't mind using this stuff up, while at the same time saving myself a thousand dollars or so in additional product req'd to finish.
I'm not fanatical about having a super glossy finish, since I'm just painting wood bulwarks, and not the fiberglass hull...so I'll have a mismatch of glossy-ness. Is there a product, cheaper is always a plus, that is less glossy and more forgiving to imperfections in the wood? In that link to my blog, you can see what I'm prepping to paint, its not much of a large flat surface, but many right angles and short bits and pieces.
I have already invested a few hundred into some Sterling products, in small quantities. My job is larger than my paint supply. I currently have a qt of 4749 and 4748. A quart of 94-1000 and catalyst, 2 quarts of 2 different top coat colors which are not the color I want and a quart each of: 2965, 2964 and 1289. I wouldn't mind using this stuff up, while at the same time saving myself a thousand dollars or so in additional product req'd to finish.
I'm not fanatical about having a super glossy finish, since I'm just painting wood bulwarks, and not the fiberglass hull...so I'll have a mismatch of glossy-ness. Is there a product, cheaper is always a plus, that is less glossy and more forgiving to imperfections in the wood? In that link to my blog, you can see what I'm prepping to paint, its not much of a large flat surface, but many right angles and short bits and pieces.
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Re: Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
I understand now, looked at your pictures. Personally I would paint with System three and I would use a foam brush in corners, foam roller on flats. That is how I painted my poling platform (lots of corners/radius issues). Its important to use the foam brush or you will get brush strokes. It will take three/four coats
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Re: Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
Thanks Shine, I think my mind is made up on this issue. Now, what to do with my already purchased Sterling...
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Re: Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
You can use the sterling if you have it already. Sterling is very forgiving. Use a very good quality badger hair brush and you can paint the entire garboard with just the brush. Go thin coats to avoid runs. I did most of the inside of our last skiff with just a brushbccelizabeth wrote:Thanks Shine, I think my mind is made up on this issue. Now, what to do with my already purchased Sterling...
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Re: Sterling over sanded Systems 3 LPU topcoat
Thanks -- most likely ill just use my Sterling primer, since both qts of topcoat I have are the wrong color. I assume the Sterling primer will work under anything (System 3 topcoat, or a monourethane), as long as it's sanded back and degreased.
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