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Gubbs GT23

Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:19 am
by Gubbs
I took last week off to get some real progress done before winter. Boat is primed, rolled and I started working on the inside. What do ya think, am I half way there yet???

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All primed....
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cheers!

Re: Gubbs GT23

Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:45 am
by Knottybuoyz
What do ya think, am I half way there yet???
Just when ya think you're half way, you're actually half way to half way! 8O

Good luck and keep building. Looking good so far!

RIck

Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:17 pm
by tech_support
fall, watch out for falling trees :D

Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:58 pm
by mecreature
That boat looks hugh at that angle...

Looks great..

Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:28 pm
by nort
That is definately the big garvey some folks have asked for. All you have to do is leave off all of that cabin stuff.

Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 8:43 am
by Gubbs
Thanks for the comments, guys. And yes, Joel, I do cringe when the winds whip up!

cheers

Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:17 pm
by ks8
Halfway? All depends on your plans for the interior... but you've got the *make it float* part much more than halfway! :)

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 4:27 pm
by OzzyC
Dude, you passed us up. Now we get to start asking you for advice.
:wink:

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:28 am
by Gubbs
Winter is finally over here and it is time for an update! Last Fall, before the snow came, I managed to cover the inside of the boat with 12oz glass. Over the winter, I made bunks and benches in my basement, and they are ready to be installed later this summer. Last weekend it was warm enough to work in the boat, so I began installing the stringers. This weekend I will continue with the stringers and install the forward bulkhead.

cheers

Bill

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 12:27 pm
by OzzyC
You took the winter off... we didn't... and you're still pulling farther and farther ahead of us. :oops:

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 12:32 pm
by Gubbs
Ozzy,

Don't feel bad. I suspect my standards for finishing are not as stringent as yours and Greg's! Having read your blog, I know you spent a lot more time on it that I did.

cheers

Bill

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 3:04 pm
by OzzyC
How's it coming Gubbs?

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:00 pm
by Gubbs
Hey Ozzy, good to hear from you. I have all the stringers installed and 2 of the 6 frames. The forward bulkhead is also installed. This weekend I hope to get the rest of the frames in and start planing the install of the sole. I ordered my windows from Wynne enterprises, bought an armstrong bracket off ebay, and put a deposit on a 115 hp yamaha 4-stroke. Things are moving along well. I have been on travel a lot lately and have not had a chance to check out your blog. How are things going with you?

Cheers

Bill

Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 2:52 pm
by OzzyC
Still in sanding and fairing hell. We're getting a little closer each week. I'm hoping that we can paint within the next month or so, but Greg's a perfectionist and it's his baby, so we go at his pace. I can't wait for the flip, because I know that once that's done, we will have several sessions where we can have visual progress each time.

Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:48 pm
by Gubbs
ya, you will be able to make good progress once you get on the inside, because whaterver is under the sole doesn't have to look good! I found that and I did not even spend as much time as you in fairing hell (it felt like hell anyway) Good luck and looking forward to seeing the pics of your boat right side up!

cheers

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 1:08 pm
by OzzyC
Pictures... we need pictures. By "we," I mean Greg and I... we want some inspiration.

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 1:34 pm
by Gubbs
Funny you should mention that! I finally just took some more this weekend, after not haveing taken any for ages. I will try to get them uploaded in a day or so.

Cheers

Bill

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:07 pm
by Gubbs
Ozzy,

I added three pics to my gallery. Shows some of sole going on...

cheers

Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:32 am
by OzzyC
Looking good. Keep the pics coming. I'd love to see a shot of the rear transom and the whole boat.

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 4:22 pm
by ggraham
where can i go to see pics of your building progress on the GT23. I am getting ready to start the GT27 and would love to know how your experience has been.

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:46 pm
by jeremy

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 11:10 pm
by ks8
Gee... I had forgotten all about the tree! It must feel good now to see the boat coming to life after a near disaster so early on.

Keep those picture coming! 8)

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:56 am
by Daddy
Just looking through the album and the pics made me wonder if you used MDO for the hull? I have in the past and found it great to work with, especially the way there is no grain and how it takes epoxy.
Daddy

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:21 am
by Gubbs
Since I last posted I have finished laying the sole and have installed the rear bulhead. I hope to get the cabin on shortly. I will try to take some more pics this weekend.

Fortuneately, the tree disaster happend just after tabbing the hull, but before building most of the seems. Most of the tabs broke (I should say the wood around the tabs, the epoxy did not break!) but there was no serious damage to the panels. I just cleaned up the broken areas with a grinder and re-assembled the panels. I actually only lost about 2 days work because of it. It could have been a lot worse!

Yes, that is MDO. I have also found it very easy to work with, and it does take the epoxy nicely.

ggraham, I found the GT23 to be easy to build for such a large hull. The large, flat surfaces were easy to work with, particularily when glassing the hull. I am sure you will find the same with your 27. Good luck with your build.

cheers

Bill

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:54 am
by Gubbs
Got the cabin assembled and some new pics taken...
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cheers

Image

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:18 am
by jacquesmm
Nice job, big boat.
Did you raise the cabin? It looks higher than designed.

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:21 am
by Daniel Huckleberry
I can't wait to see that thing on the water! Looks great. I agree w. Jacques, it looks taller than the study plans.

Huck

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:23 am
by jacquesmm
There is no technical problem with raising the roof in this boat, it can be done.
It's a matter of personal preferences.

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:49 am
by Gubbs
Thanks for the comments! The cabin looks high for a couple of reasons. The first is that when I put together the side panels they did not fit quite right. The resulting fix was that the sides ended up about 1.5 inches low, particularily near the front of the boat. The second reason it looks high is that I opted for a flat roof instead of a curved one to make the fabrication of the foam panels easier. Then to make sure the rain would run off towards the back, I raised the front a couple of inches. If you were to measure the height of the roof at the rear of the cabin along the centerline, this height would match the plans!

cheers

Bill

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 12:25 pm
by Daddy
Great looking job, what do you plan to use for windows? Power? I have been thinking a lot about the GT23 but if I build it I will reduce the size by 6% which will make it 22 feet long with an 8 foot beam. This will accomplish two things, it will fit in my garage and meet the specs of my marina. If I build it I am going to try to give it a 1920s barge house boat look while maintaining the softer entry of the V hull. I have been looking at jet drives and wonder how that would work.
Daddy

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 1:12 pm
by Daddy
I thought of a few more questions.

1.Is the roof stong enough to stand on (when at anchor of course)? I also plan to extend it out over the rear cockpit. I like the foam core option. I will not do the flat roof but will have a 3 inch camber in it.

2. Are the benches in the cockpit structural? I would like to eliminate them.

3. I want to change the layout of the cabin and put a dinette on the port side, narrow up the aisle and offset the doors.

4. I would like to scale the boat down by 6% which would get me close to 22 feet.

Any comments appreciated.

Daddy

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 1:41 pm
by jacquesmm
Daddy wrote:I thought of a few more questions.

1.Is the roof stong enough to stand on (when at anchor of course)? I also plan to extend it out over the rear cockpit. I like the foam core option. I will not do the flat roof but will have a 3 inch camber in it.
Yes: strong enough to stand on it but not for permanent fly bridge.

2. Are the benches in the cockpit structural? I would like to eliminate them.
The rear bench is structural. It can be replaced by a bulkhead 6 to 10" in front of the transom.

3. I want to change the layout of the cabin and put a dinette on the port side, narrow up the aisle and offset the doors.

4. I would like to scale the boat down by 6% which would get me close to 22 feet.

Any comments appreciated.

Daddy
No problem with 3 and 4 except that it will become tight inside.

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:00 pm
by Daddy
Thanks Jacques, If I go the motor well route will that take care of number 2 above, that is eliminating the back bench?
Daddy

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:28 pm
by jacquesmm
Let's say replace it with a full height bulkhead in front of the transom, ideally 10 to 12" in front of it.
That bulkhead should be tied to the transom with a few uprights and a shelf. This will become a box, a beam that strengthen the transom and gives you some storage.
All this is for engines 25 HP and above. For slow speeds, a few transom knees are sufficient.

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:49 pm
by Daddy
Great, many thanks, I am on my way to the post office to return the GT23 plans in inches for ones in metric.
thanks again,
Daddy

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 3:57 pm
by Gubbs
Daddy,

Sounds like you have some good ideas for your GT23. To answer your questions, I plan on putting a 115 hp Yamaha 4-stroke on the boat. I put a deposit on one that was a fairly good deal because he used it as a demo and it has only about 50 hrs on the engine. I got my windows from Wynne enterprise, they have a good website that you should be able to google if you are interested. I was quite pleased with their construction and think they will look good in this boat. I will post more pictures once they are installed, of course.

Cheers

Bill

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:25 pm
by Daddy
Bill, thanks for your reply, I will probably build for planing but only power for displacement speeds, 25 to 50 hp depending on what is available, sounds like you got a great deal on you yammie.
Daddy

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:08 pm
by OzzyC
Hey Gubbs, coming along nicely. Do you have an ETA for your first float?

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:52 am
by Gubbs
Ozzy,

My wife and I have been pushing really hard to have it in the water for our vacation in August. We want to do the Trent-Severn Canal system in it. I currently have an appointment with the dealer to install the engine on August 7th. So I better have it in 'floatable shape' by then! It won't be finished, as I will still have lots of interior work to finish, and lots of accessories to install, but it will at least be useable.

Cheers

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:25 am
by OzzyC
I can tell that you (and the Mrs.) have really been busting @$$. I'm impressed as hell with the progress and based on what I see, the August goal is certainly attainable.

Understanding that it won't be done, you could always work on it while you're floating through the canals :wink:

Greg and I got the hull primed, but we've hit another minor setback. I broke my ankle over the weekend while water skiing. Fortunately I'm wearing a boot, not a cast, and I've been given the green light to put weight on it. So in a week or two I may feel up to getting back over to Greg's for some actual painting. But I don't think I'll be much help when it comes time to flip her.

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 1:33 pm
by Gubbs
Ozzy,

I'm really sorry to hear about the ankle. Injuries always suck, especially when they put a damper on boat building! Get well soon.

cheers

Bill

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:19 pm
by Iowa Boy Greg
Hey Gubbs,

What brand trailer are you using? I was noticing the other day that the beam was wide enough at the bottom that the boat wouldn't fit between the wheels of a standard width U.S. trailer. I see that you have raised bunks to accomodate this. For the front, are you going to weld in some sort of support to replace the wood bracing you have now? Are you planning to use bunks up front also?

Greg

Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:25 am
by Gubbs
Greg,

Yes, I did have some problems with the trailer. Most trailers are built for V-hulls and I did have to raise the bunks to accomodate the flatness of this hull. As you can see from the pictures, the boat sits about an inch and a half above the wheel fenders. The trailer is a Crown, made here in Ontario. I have a bow roller set up that I am going to install to replace the wooden frame. The wooden frame was there to hold the shape of the boat until I got the interior structure installed. I think that a nice large bow roller should be enough to support the front as most of the weight will remain on the bunks. The first time I trailer it I will be watching very carefully to make sure everything is ok!

Cheers

Bill

Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:56 pm
by Iowa Boy Greg
Gubbs,

Thanks for the info on the trailer. I don't know much about them and so appreciate the help. I will wait to hear how yours works out, but I like the idea of bunks in back and a roller up front. I have a welder and can customize mine however I need to, I just want to do it right the first time. Maybe I'll go all out and get an electric winch so the wife can help load. She just got a job after being a full time mom for several years, so now she can help me buy boat goodies!

Also, I was wondering what length/weight capacity trailer to buy. I definitely want a dual axle, and one that has good brakes and plenty of margin on weight capacity. Should I buy a trailer for a 23' boat, or longer, since I will have a 28" motor bracket on the back? I want to use a transom saver and I assume that they make them long enough for boats with motors that hang way back because of brackets. I would like to use the minimum practical wheel size to keep the center of gravity low, since the boat has to sit above the wheels.

Any help you or others can give would be great. I would also like to hear a recommendation on what type of trailer brakes to get for a big boat trailer. I have been checking other forums re: trailer boats and there seems to be mixed feelings between surge and electric.

Thanks, and keep taking pictures for us!

Greg

Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:00 am
by Gubbs
Greg,

The trailer I bought was good for a 24ft boat up to 6000 lbs, so it can handle quite a bit more than I need. I have thought about a Transom saver as well but have not got one yet. I will let you know if I find anything good. As for brakes, there are advantages and disadvantages to both. I got surge brakes because I am not sure that I will always use the same vehicle to pull the trailer. My vehicle won't pull it if the boat is on it, so I have to borrow my fathers truck. It is not wired for electric brakes, and I did not want to get into wiring his truck. Surge brakes gives more options on which vehicle to use. Electric brakes, however, offer more control over the braking force as most have in-cab adjustments. I think the important thing is that you have brakes! What kind you have is more an individual choice.

Get that thing flipped over, I want to see it! I have been following your blog and really appreciate the effort you have been putting in.

Cheers

Bill

Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 1:07 pm
by Daddy
Hey Bill, I got my plans back, now in metric, so I can more easily reduce the size by 6% and begin to build my GT22. I have been looking at your album and was wondering how you attached the forward stringers to the other stringers or do they just butt up against the forward bulkhead. I cant tell from the pictue?. I am probably getting ahead of myself by asking this question and it is probably explained somewhere but I havent found it yet.
Your boat looks great, hope I can do as well.
Daddy

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:07 pm
by Gubbs
Daddy,

Sorry for the late reply, I have been floating down the Trent-Severn waterway in my newly launched boat for the last month! The stringers just butt up against the bulkhead in my boat. Iowa Boy Gregg, however, attached his sets of stringers together, to make big long stringers, which also seems to have worked just fine. So I really don't think it matters how you do it!

Cheers

Bill

ps. pictures of her in the water coming soon!

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:17 pm
by Daddy
Bill, Thanks so much for the reply, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out how to do it. When you say butt up aginst, did you use some screws to hold it (temporarily)? Thats what I was thinking of doing.
Your trip sounds great, did you use the new boat, GT23? How about power, you used a 40hp right, on a bracket?, How about trim? Speed? Comfort? Handling? Eager to hear about it.
Daddy

Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 6:16 pm
by Daddy
Bill, re: your PS, cant wait to see the pictures, I googled the Trentsevern water way and it look really fantastic, what a great resource!
Daddy
PS I have finished my stringers and frames and am now joining by bottom and side panels into their full lengths, cut out all the bits and pieces, next will build the jig and start making it look like a boat.

Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 3:33 pm
by Daddy
Absolutely great, thanks for the pics and update. I was worried about the windage effect of those broad bullwarks but you have allayed them considerably. Did you take any waves over the bow transom? I think I asked you this before but cant find the post, where did you get your windows? Thanks
Daddy
ps found the post on the windows, Wynne enterprise

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 8:59 am
by Gubbs
If you look at the launch picture you can see a hole in the bow transom that is there for the anchor line. I did not take any waves over the bow, but could get considerable water coming in through that hole when heading into waves. I think I probably made it too big. I am planing to put some rubber over it in the same fashion as a rubber scupper valve so I can still pass the line through but wave action would close it and keep most of the water out.

Cheers

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:29 am
by Daddy
I was actually planning on leaving that hole/scupper out and making sure the side scuppers in that area were a bit bigger than designed. I will bring the side decks/gunnels around to the bow and put a wide curve in there the same radius as the width of the fore cockpit sole (if you can picture that). Then I will put a cleat on the newly creted foredeck (only about 8 or 10 inches wide.) Wiish I could draw like some of the guys. I will need to put a few brackets to support it all just like the side decks/gunnels. I am also going to lower the roof line so I will only have 5' 10" headroom in the center and a 3 or 4 inch camber so the sides can be a bit lower.
Sent an email to the window guys, no response yet.What type of scupper valves did you install on the cockpit? There was quite a discussion on the forum a while ago and lots of ideas floated then.
Again, thanks for the pictures.
Daddy

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:41 am
by Gubbs
I just used the Sea Dog rubber flap type. They were cheap and keep most of the water out, but I am not all that happy with their performance. I am going to look at replacing them with something better.

I found the window company to be slow on communication and not very responsive to inquiries once the order had been placed. However, they did deliver on time and I have been very happy with the windows.

Cheers

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:43 pm
by Daddy
I forgot to mention that I put four 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch runers on the bottom of my hull. the runners on a jonboat are said to make it run like its on track so be interesting to see if it helps at all but your experience is encouraging, BTW the boat looks great.
Daddy

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 3:07 pm
by Gubbs
thanks, but its still not finished yet! Need to finish the doors, do the bottom paint, change around the fuel system, finish the interior, install wiring (All I have is ignition system and guages, no lights, depth finder or 12volt aux power for cell phone or gps!), change the cockpit to drain better, paint (it is only primed right now!) and I am sure I will find other stuff while I'm at it....

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 6:53 pm
by OzzyC
Awesome! Thanks for the update.

Ozzy

Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:01 pm
by Daddy
Ozzy, isnt it great to see the pictues!!
Gubbs, I wonder if the location of your fuel tank and maybe water tank contribute to the trim problem? Maybe moving the fuel tank to the rear cockpit would help.
Daddy

Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:47 am
by OzzyC
Daddy wrote:Ozzy, isnt it great to see the pictues!!
Gubbs, I wonder if the location of your fuel tank and maybe water tank contribute to the trim problem? Maybe moving the fuel tank to the rear cockpit would help.
Daddy
Yeah, it's good to see some pics. I'd love some closer-up shots... something to see the motor mount setup, and I'd also like to see what the cabin looks like. Hey Gubbs, maybe you could take a video and post it on YouTube.

Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 11:59 am
by Daddy
After reading about Gubbs experience with his rig I am pretty much convinced that I will go with a 25hp in a motor well and forget planing speeds. I think maybe he might need trim tabs if I remember right they are recommended for the planing hull design.
I would love to see more pics too. Curious to hear about the comfort of cruising in that rig, any name on it I wonder?
Daddy

Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:30 pm
by jacquesmm
Daddy wrote:Ozzy, isnt it great to see the pictues!!
Gubbs, I wonder if the location of your fuel tank and maybe water tank contribute to the trim problem? Maybe moving the fuel tank to the rear cockpit would help.
Daddy
Where are those tanks? They should be in the stern.
This boat has all the volume towards the stern and must be loaded accordingly. The trim will improve as you ad gear in the storage compartment.

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:04 pm
by OzzyC
jacquesmm wrote:Where are those tanks? They should be in the stern.
This boat has all the volume towards the stern and must be loaded accordingly. The trim will improve as you ad gear in the storage compartment.
Thanks Jacques... personal involvement like this really goes a long way. I'll make sure to tell Greg about this.

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:07 pm
by Daddy
OK, now I am confused, the study plans say:
"We show fuel tanks under the bunks for those who install a large heavy engine on the transom but with a small engine, the tank should be under the cockpit seats. This is a matter of weight distribution and is explained in the building notes."
so I am not sure what or where the tanks should be. Also Gubbs, the study plans recommend trim tabs for planing speed, did you opt for them, I wonder if that would help you get out of the hole?

Just wonderin and confused as always Daddy (borrowed that from Dougster)

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:42 am
by Gubbs
The tanks are under the cockpit floor, as far back as I could get them. I also stored all heavy gear and provisions in the rear of the boat, including water (I don't have a water tank but had portable jugs which I strapped accross the rear transom). Even with full tanks and water she was a little bow down at rest. I'm glad I did not put the fuel tank under the bunk because that would have exacerbated the problem.

I don't have trim tabs. I wanted to see how the boat ran without them before I spent the money. The boat runs fine for me, no tendancy to porpoise, and is only a little slow to get up on plane when heavily loaded. It gets up fine when light. Since at full throttle I don't reach max rpm when heavy, I will talk to my dealer about changing the prop pitch which I think will help. I am pretty sure I will never put trim tabs on the boat, and will just use the motor trim, as I am happy with the attitude when on plane.

cheers

Gubbs

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 11:16 am
by Iowa Boy Greg
Looks great Gubbs!

IIRC, you used some heavy glass windows and fairly heavy plywood construction for the cabin? This is likely contributing to the weight distribution issue.

I was planning on building a lightweight foam cabin/roof with lexan windows and putting the tanks under the bunks. Now I'm not so sure...

BTW, after putting on some of the copper based bottom paint, we found that it was difficult to get a smooth finish. It was also fairly soft. So, we decided to go with epoxy/graphite. 1st coat: 1 oz colloidal silica, 2 oz graphite powder, 12 oz epoxy (all by volume). 2nd coat: 4 oz graphite, 12 oz epoxy. 3rd coat yet to go.

Greg

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 11:24 am
by jacquesmm
That boat is sensitive to weights forward. We calculated the CG with 2 persons in the cockpit and most of the gear there too.
I wonder why the trim is down by the bow but now that you are aware of it, let's keep loading in the stern.
Besides that she seems to perform as expected. You did a good job, she looks good.

PS: the hull shape of the GT27 is different, we gave it more volume forward to support the weights in the cabin.

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:11 pm
by Daddy
I'm pretty sure that gubbs built his cabin out of the foam option so that should not have added much weight, windows maybe. I too am thinking of lexan windows, still havent heard from the window people so that is still an option. I wonder, putting only a 25 on the back of mine, she will really be out of trim, guess I'dd have to wait and see, still have not caught up with Oz. Work keeps getting in the way of work on my own boat.
Daddy

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:35 pm
by jacquesmm
If you look at the pictures earlier int his thread you can see the cabin made from plywood.
If you use foam sandwich or honeycomb, ti can only be better.
From the pictures, the boat looks in his lines but it is the drainage that bothers me.

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:29 pm
by Gubbs
The cabin was made of 1 inch foam between two sheets of 1/8 marine ply vacuum bagged. The windows are glass and were quite heavy and obviously would affect the lines at rest. The boat is not out by much, it only fails to drain about 1/4 inch of water or so that pools next to the door between the cockpit and the cabin. I can fix the cockpit so that it drains properly. I was more concerned that if water got into the bilge, which is connected to the front by limber holes, that the boat would get more nose down and water would not pool by the bilge pump. As far as I can tell, this will not happen. I have had a fair bit of water pool there after a heavy rain (I have not had a chance to seal my hatches yet!) and the bilge pump happily gets rid of it. All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the boat!

Cheers

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:49 pm
by jacquesmm
Don't misunderstand, I think the boat is a success. We just try to iron out some little bugs.

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:54 pm
by gk108
Gubbs wrote:All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the boat!

Cheers
I like it too. :D
As good as the renderings in the study plans are, nothing beats pictures of the real thing. The report of the maiden voyage sounds like the boat is an excellent floating camper.

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:22 pm
by OzzyC
Iowa Boy Greg wrote:BTW, after putting on some of the copper based bottom paint, we found that it was difficult to get a smooth finish. It was also fairly soft. So, we decided to go with epoxy/graphite. 1st coat: 1 oz colloidal silica, 2 oz graphite powder, 12 oz epoxy (all by volume). 2nd coat: 4 oz graphite, 12 oz epoxy. 3rd coat yet to go.
3rd coat same as the second...

First coat, we made three batches with the recipe Greg mentioned above. We had some left over.

Greg did the second coat by himself.

Third coat, we did two batches and had a little left over. Each coat got progressively thinner.

The graphite-infused epoxy leaves a nice slick coat... great for running shallow rivers.

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:51 pm
by Gubbs
Sounds great, I can't wait to see the pictures on your blog. hint hint!

cheers

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 7:28 pm
by OzzyC
Gubbs wrote:Sounds great, I can't wait to see the pictures on your blog. hint hint!
Ask and ye shall receive... see the blog below.

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:10 pm
by Daddy
I hve decided to put the cabin on my GT all the way back against the false trnsom and the motor in a motorwell/splashwell. This will give me a huge open deck in front of the cabin and none at the stern. Access the motor through a 1/2 door in the rear bulkhead, batteries and gas in the compartments on either side of the motor well. I cut and pasted (literally) using a printout of the scale drawing and really like the look of the aft cabin.
Daddy

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:49 pm
by Daddy
Gubbs, I wonder if you could tell me what size gas tank you used, any hints on installation in that hull, did you have a bilge pump. I really appreciate all of the stuff you have shared with us, really a great help.
Daddy

Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:16 pm
by Gubbs
Ozzy,

Looks real sharp!

cheers

Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:18 pm
by Gubbs
Daddy,

The tanks were 11 gal, located under the sole in the rear outer most areas between the stringer and the side hull. Also put a bilge pump in the center. I will see if I can find some pictures.

Cheers

Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:35 pm
by Daddy
Thanks Gubbs, poly or aluminum? Two tanks, linked together somehow,one fill, two fills? Sorry to ask so many questions
Daddy

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:22 am
by Gubbs
Four plastic tanks. Since only relatively small ones would fit in that space I needed that many to get the total fuel I wanted. Small boat regs in Canada state that each tank must have its own fill. ( I don't know if it is the same in the US...) Not sure why this is since aircraft often have a single fill for multiple tanks. I did tie the vent lines together since there seems to be no reg against that. Two tanks on each side feed a water fuel separator, then a selector valve is used to determine if I am drawing off the right or the left side of the boat. This is how the marina where I bought my engine wanted it set up. It did not work terribly well, and I usually empty the rear tank on each side, leaving the forward one half full. I am going to mod this system in the spring to prevent this from happening. Here is the picture of the tanks, sorry its not a very good picture but is the only one I have:
Image
The two tanks on the left (black rear, white front) are shown in position. On the right you can see one leaning on a stringer waiting to be installed.

Cheers

Gubbs

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:34 pm
by Daddy
Thanks Gubbs, Since I am doing the displacement hull version and plan only day trips, I will only need a small tank. I think I am opting for a bracket instead of a splashwell, cabin moved all the way back, sure will be a different look. There are so many options at this stage, when I get it flipped I will do a couple of mockups with 1/4 inch luan to see which looks and feels the best.
As always I appreciate your help.
Daddy

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:36 am
by OzzyC
Gubbs wrote:Looks real sharp!
Thanks. Greg and I are pleased with it.

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:31 pm
by Daddy
Gubbs, I am thinking of using a plastic tank below the sole in the center of the hull with the connections located under the splashwell. Probably whatever will fit between the transom and the next frame forward and shallow enough to fit under the sole.
1. I am concerned about whether or not that space needs to be vented or not. Are you venting yours? I am just going with a small motor and looking for hull speed only so dont need a very big tank, 10 or 15 gallons. My concern comes from the fact that all of my previous experience has been with restoring other boats and so have only repeated whatever I found in the original. Now I am plowing new ground.
2. Did you foam under your sole?
Daddy
BTW one more coat of paint and I will flip

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:09 am
by Gubbs
I foamed about 2/3 of the space under the sole, all of the areas except the center area from the bow to where the fuel tanks are located. I put an anchor locker in the fore most space and have limber holes down the center all the way to the stern. I don't know what the regulations are in the US, but the Canadian small boat construction standards specify the size of opening that you must have in the area where your fuel tank is located based on the size of the fuel tank. For my tanks this resulted in an opening around 9inX9in (if memory serves me) and I adhered to this.

cheers

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:12 pm
by Daddy
Thanks Gubbs, but where did you put this 9x9 opening? Is it some kind of vent, up high, down low? Sorry to be so slow
Daddy

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:08 am
by Gubbs
in the sole under the bench seat. When I have time I am going to cover it with a grate.

cheers

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 3:26 pm
by Daddy
Gubbs, how are you coming along, any work at all this winter? I have decided to use a modest size below deck tank but I will install it in the space between the true transom and the "false" transom (about 10 inches inboard). There will be enough space there for a 12 gallon tank just above the sole I'll put my batteries there too but in a seperate compartment. I am only using a 9.9 high thrust motor and that will take me as far as I want to go.
Daddy

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:00 am
by Gubbs
Haven't done much yet, but in a couple of weeks I am going up to the cottage for March Break and will do some work on doors and hatches.

Cheers