Elie pointed out the cut that can probably be reduced or eliminated - it's the 2" tip of the bottom panel on sheet B279/6 (upper left hand corner). Basically, on the 3 builds with pictures that have been posted (including mine), the cut leaves about a 1"+ gap when the round chine strips come together. I would guess the gap was closer to 1.5" on my build. If you didn't make the 2" trim cut shown on the plans, then it would be very easy to trim it back to the necessary length when you stitched the strips in place. You'll see what I mean when you get to that stage of stitching. It's easier to remove the material later than to add it back!
It's not a big deal, but it will save a minor amount of time filling in and faring the gap both inside & out. These are just little things that I remember from my build that I would do different & no major issue.
A couple of other things while I'm thinking of it. For people doing the round chine option, there's no need to cut out the gunwale, bow or stern deck sheets right away. With the round chine option you need access to the inside of the bow area to align the chine strips, so the build method using the deck sheets isn't feasible. If I did it again I would wait until the rubrail was on & then flip the boat and trace the gunwale & deck sections on the uncut sheets at that stage. Use the inside edge of the hull as a guide and you'll get a perfect fit. This would have saved me a minor amount of time since there will be a small amount of trimming on my parts. I cut them out based on the drawing dimensions and not based on the "as built" dimensions. There's probably about a maximum of a 1/4" difference in a couple of areas on my build where I need to trim back the deck & gunwale edges for a better fit. It shows how well Jacques modeling works when there's such a small amount of variation given the vast differences in material choices and building methods- I'm impressed!
Enjoy the process. - Bob