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OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:22 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 12:23 am
by TomW
Jim looking forward to watching the build.

Tom

Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 11:23 am
by Lucky_Louis
Way to go Jim, looking forward to following your build. OK TomW, time to get going for you too!

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 5:26 pm
by ross61
Jim,

Where are you at? I am in South Milwaukee. I built an FL14 several years ago (actually for sale now) and would love to watch your progress, and/or lend a hand.
I have considered building this boat, but I just bought a 30 something year old Sea Ray to keep me occupied until I build again.

Ross

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 5:53 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:09 pm
by ross61
Jim,

There is no email icon on your post. You can email me though and I will get back to you. I work in Mequon, so it's probably not too far from you.

See Ya

Ross

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:43 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 10:08 pm
by JIM M
Well guys the first weekend went pretty good. We have the strong back done and molds A thru E installed. Also cut transom and clamping board and glued them. Will try to cut and glue stringers this week. Laying out the pieces on ply was easyer than I thought it would be. Will try to start gallery soon.

JIM

Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:47 am
by tech_support
JIM M wrote:Laying out the pieces on ply was easier than I thought it would be. Will try to start gallery soon. JIM
Once you cut the first couple, it moves very quick.

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:21 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 10:46 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:19 am
by Fred in Wisc
Nice start, Jim. Isn't it amazing how it starts to look like a boat almost right away. I find that to be very motivational.

Looking forward to following your build, that should be a great boat for around here.

Fred in Wisc

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:35 am
by TomW
Looking good Jim.

Tom

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:39 am
by Cracker Larry
Looks great :!:

That is a nice shop. A/C too. I'm jealous :roll:

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:06 am
by Lucky_Louis
Awesome seams Jim. Time to start mixing brown mud!

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:29 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:32 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Either would be fine. You'll be well within the curing time to achieve a chemical bond and blush won't be problem with the slow hardener.

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:49 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:35 pm
by ross61
Jim,

I was wondering where you got your plywood. I was unable to find any locally. Was hoping you did, or did you have it shipped? From where?

Thanks,

Ross

Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:28 am
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:45 pm
by jacquesmm
Looks very good from here.

What a clean workshop! Joel, are you watching? :wink:

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:17 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:45 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:08 pm
by Cracker Larry
Looks good Jim.

Now I know what to do with the chicken brooders I don't use anymore :P

Image

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 10:33 am
by Lucky_Louis
Awesome idea! The resin's viscosity at 70-80 is much nicer than at 40-50. Thanks for the update Jim. Looks like you're doing great work.

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 5:17 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:03 pm
by davidtx
JIM M wrote:My little " poxy oven " makes Quick fair much easier to apply to. At 55 QF is thick as peanut butter and hard to spread smooth at 75 it's easy to put on thin smooth coats
Ah - that's what happened to me last night. It was 55 in the shop and the QF was giving me fits. Just a few degrees made all the difference in the world.

-david

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:36 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:06 am
by Lucky_Louis
Based on the reflections, it looks great. Very nice work. A word of warning, :doh: NEVER say you're "finished' fairing. The spirits of fairing (SoF) may hear you and then you have to fair (and sand) more. Once you've primed, try using a light (misting only) guide coat of cheap black paint. Run your long board over that to reveal any low spots. Once those are gone, THEN you're done fairing :D

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 7:03 pm
by Lucky_Louis
:D

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:23 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:44 pm
by Lucky_Louis
1. Haven't decided how much if any of the spray rail will be graphite so if I coat the whole rail with graphite will S3 yacht primer be opaque enough to hide the graphite if I decide I want the rails painted?
Probably OK if you are prepared to add enough coats. If I was unsure, I would tend to go the other way - don't graphite the area and add it later if I changed my mind.
2. Will the graphite bond well after sanding with 80 grit paper or should I use a coarser paper ?
Absolutely, it's epoxy! Remember that the graphite is really epoxy with graphite powder added. It's still mostly epoxy and bonds well with darn near everything. Depending on your epoxy brand and speed of hardener, you may need to be aware of amine blush. Sanding can compound it by grinding the blush into the surface being prepped. To be sure, I always got in the habit of washing before sanding with a solution of clear water with a splash of vinegar in it.

Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:31 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:14 pm
by gk108
Looking good :!:
I want to put a strip of graphite down the middle of my V10 and I've been trying to figure out the sequence for that. It looks like I'll put on primer, then graphite the middle, then mask it off and paint the topcoat.
When I put it on my D15, I just rolled it right over the fairing compound. If it sticks to itself, it will stick to about anything else.

Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:55 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:57 pm
by TomW
You'll get a better finish sanding using your fairing boards and it will keep you from having any high or low spots that you might have from using the RO. Just use a light pressure on them and you'll be fine. If you don't have paper for them than still go the hand route with as large a block as you can. This is going to determine your final finish. Do a light spray with a quick drying spray paint(black or red work best) when you sand this will show you any high or low spots real fast and you can then add QF where needed or sand down any high spots. Then reapply a primer coat.

Tom

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:31 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:14 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:16 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Beautiful Jim, just beautiful.

Way nicer than mine turned out :wink:

Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:02 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:03 am
by TomW
Jim she looks very nice, you did a very good job.

Tom

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:46 am
by Lucky_Louis
Because you've done the bottom up to the spray rails, painting last is probably a really good idea. That way the occasional drip, smear, scratch etc as you now begin the phase of climbing in and out of your new boat (a few thousand times) can be dealt with before final painting. Sanding would be a bitch but you should be just about done that.

The flip on this boat is very easy, it is still very light. I would guess no more than 200-250 lbs tops. You don't have to build any elaborate rolling cradles or anything like that. One lifter at the bow, one on each stern corner. Throw some old foamies or a mattress on the ground beside the hull. Lift clear of the frames/stringers/mold and lower her onto her side. One person can hold the hull there while you deal with her next resting place. Mine went right onto a trailer but a cradle works very well too, just build it low to the ground like Larry's.

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 5:27 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 5:48 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Sounds like you got it covered Jim. The only caveat about going onto a trailer is to support the bottom well to avoid inducing any hook or rocker that isn't there now. A few builders have discovered a hook or rocker after splashing that they swear wasn't there when the boat was upside down. My trailer is the bunk style and I added a another center beam under the keel. Then I used a series of rachet straps to maintain the designed beam at each station. I wrote the station letter on each strap and adjusted them to the same mark each time I put the boat away - "borrowed" the idea from Wobbly Legs.
Image
I have a hunch that if left alone, the sides want to splay out and the bow can droop once the bow mold is removed.

After your frames and stringers are tabbed in place, this becomes a much stiffer boat. Taping and glassing the inside will go much faster - you're a pro by now and no fairing required. This is the area where working 'wet on wet' has the biggest pay off. I started the inside filleting on a Friday night, taped the joints on Sat. morning, glassed 1/2 the bottom Sat. afternoon, finished the glassing on Sun. morning. The biggest advantage was having all the pieces pre-cut and marked well. The other huge benefit was having SWMBO mix and deliver epoxy on demand.

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:29 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:25 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:09 pm
by davidtx
Holey moley that's a shiny bottom! Its just gorgeous!

I thought my epoxy job was shiny. I wonder how the fish will react when they seem their reflection?

-david

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:35 am
by gerry
Hi Jim,
Very nice, I can not wait to do mine!! I put on another two coats of graphite last weekend after sanding the first one, so now it has three proper coats in total. I need a week to let it cure, and then hopefully it will turn out like yours, how long did it take? I think it going to take me 20 hours to do the CX19?

That is a magic finish...

Gerry

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:43 am
by Lucky_Louis
Nice Jim! I'm pretty sure that's too shiny and smooth and will lead to major control problems, please rough it up with some 30 grit immmediately....

:lol: Just kidding, that's some sweet looking bottom. If you keep this up, you'll have a work of art when you're done.

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:50 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:08 pm
by Aripeka Angler
That is the best looking bottom I have seen in years. :D :D I can't wait to see the rest of your boat.

AA

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:45 pm
by colonialc19
Jim,
Thats quite a piece of work, very nice!

Smooth 8)

Daniel

p.s. the smiley needed shades from all that shine!

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:44 pm
by ks8
Knowing that many species of fish are actually vain and narcissistic, they will probably rush to your shiney hull so they can kiss their own reflections (that's a problem with the marlins). Just run a landing net along the bottom now and then and see if it isn't so...

8)

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:59 pm
by TomW
Smooth Jim, maybe the salmon will come look at that bottom and you won't have to use down riggers.

Tom

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:50 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:28 am
by Cracker Larry
Smooth Jim, maybe the salmon will come look at that bottom and you won't have to use down riggers.
That is a nice looking bottom! You joke about raising fish, but that shiny black would be a perfect base for a school of squid or ballyhoo. Put some pink or silver squid decals, or painted stencils, and it will have fish jumping in the boat 8) I don't know what salmon feed on, or would need for a teaser, a school of bugs :doh:

Yeah, yall think I'm nuts, but I'm going to do it on mine. I know several sportfishermen who swear by them. I've heard of a few boat that had to take them off because of sharks attacking the hull, and heard of another boat that a billfish spiked a hole in the bottom 8O

Let me find a few references....

Here's a link to a supplier with a wide selection...

http://www.xtralook.net/products.html

A Contender bottom..

Image

Another supplier...
http://www.stencilease.com/db/display.asp?input=1516

A fishing forum on bottom teasers...

http://www.sunsportstv.com/ubbthreads/s ... art=1&vc=1

:lol:

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:56 am
by TomW
Larry, Shad, Perch, Whiting, big Shiners am I forgetting anything Jim. Artificials, Rapala's are popular.

Tom

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:38 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:19 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:05 pm
by Dougster
My God that looks beautiful! It's inspiring. How tough is the S3 to mix and apply? I'm leaning that or Kirby. Tell me you sanded with an RO to 1000 and not with a long board. I dunno, never did much painting. Did you wet sand the S3? Thanks for sharing the pics, they help us fence sitters.

Says you got it goin' on Dougster :)

Shiny Paint

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 8:20 pm
by cottontop
Jim, I just thought I had a shiny paint job. Yours is the best I've ever seen. The fish will think they're looking at themselves. Great job. John

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:17 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:43 am
by Cracka
Mate, that paint job looks awesome.

Mick

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:09 am
by gerry
Wow, that looks amazing :D

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:30 am
by Lucky_Louis
Amazing job Jim, congrats. You're giving OB17 builders a good name :D

You must be just about ready to flip?

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:03 am
by jacquesmm
Impressive.
It's all in the sanding, the more you sand, the shinier it will look.

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:21 pm
by ks8
Nice! Did you buff with a compound? If so, which? :)

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:41 pm
by tech_support
looks good this way too..

Image

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:49 pm
by ks8
A new take on the old Crazy Glue commercial? :lol:

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:22 pm
by topwater
Wow 8O Absolutely beautiful.

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:37 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:14 pm
by TomW
Jim beautiful work. That is a first class finish that you can be proud of.

Tom

Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:12 pm
by ks8
JIM M wrote:ks8, here is what I used to buff.
thanks... :)

Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 2:34 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:05 am
by TomW
Congratulations on a milestone reached Jim. The boat looks great sitting on the trailer.

Tom

Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 5:12 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Congrats on the uneventful flip! She looks great, the trailer looks like a good match. You'll find that a 2"x4" or 2"x6" across the trailer frame pushed into the bow really helps support it for when you start flopping around inside to do the filleting, taping, and glassing. A couple of clamps to the trailer to hold it in place works fine.

Jim, don't forget that your beautiful hull is very vulnerable and flimsy (relatively) right now so check and double check that the hull bottom is well supported right to the transom. As well, keep checking for any hull twisting or flaring especially between frames "B" and "C". The hull will try to spread now that the frames are out until you get the stringers and frames installed.

Thanks for the pictures, keep us posted.

Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:15 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 9:30 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:40 am
by Lucky_Louis
Well done Jim, I did the inside glass from the inside at the expense of my back and knees. Another big dent in your epoxy supply I'll bet. When you get to the stringer/frame filletting and taping, precut all the pieces of tape - there will be a lot of them (somewhere around 140) and make up some kind of filing system to keep track of them. Don't forget the tapes are doubled - I almost missed that in my building notes.

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 1:47 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:48 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Doesn't matter which order you do but the frames dictate where the stringers fit and the stringers dictate where the frames live because of the notches. If you did the stringers and something shifted a little bit, the frames wouldn't fit back in place.

I found that the shorter the tape, the easier it was to work with so I did each "box" from start to finish. First fillet, then precoat, then tape layer 1 and finally tape layer 2. Be sure to offset the two layers of tape by at least an inch. SWMBO precoated the tapes (8 per 'box') and batched up fillet material for me. By the end, we could do a section in less than 20 minutes.

Don't bother trimming the tapes when you get to the skinnier parts of a frame or stringer, just slide more tape onto the bottom panel, in other words run the tape parallel to the top of the stringer or frame, not the curved bottom.

A padded plank gives your butt someplace to be while you're hunched over.

Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 3:40 am
by chicagoross
I did the "boxes" like LL said. Depending on the box size, they are "doable" sections if you only have an hour or two to work; plus you can sit/kneel in the one you finished yesterday knowing you are now on "solid ground". I too was paranoid about moving around the boat before the fileting/taping was done, that made me feel more comfortable about the process! :)

Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 10:06 am
by JIM M
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Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 2:28 pm
by WobblyLegs
Jim,

I've just been looking at the pictures of your flip - you've done a stunning job on the paint-work, and the hull looks really light judging by the way the two of you are handling it.

I like Louis' idea of working in boxes too!

Keep it up! 8)

Tim.

Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 3:49 pm
by ks8
Reminder... Jim's gallery is here...

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=17695

nother reminder... as you progress in the interior, the SoF do still lurk about....

:)

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 10:19 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:30 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:29 pm
by Lucky_Louis
If you can plan ahead that far, it will be a lot easier to cut the holes for your chase tubes in the frames and stringers before gluing them into the boat.

Looks like you have the identical trailer to mine. A tip? Cover the plastic step/fenders with an old tarp or something. Mine got covered with epoxy and crud from the bottom of my sneakers, scratched, etc. from all the times I climbed in and out.

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:54 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:03 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:53 pm
by peter-curacao
:lol: :lol: :lol: LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

I had the same thing only it was my flipflop and my foot glued together :P

Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:25 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:40 pm
by cape man
I tracked graphite powder into the rug a couple of weeks ago. I now get inspected before entrance is allowed.

Harley's 105th...I was in Milwaulkee last week, and actually had some free time Saturday. Went to the Harley Museum with some friends. Would have preferred seeing your build.

How do you like the PVC clamps compared to spring clamps?

Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:11 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:11 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Looking great Jim! Don't forget that you'll need cleats along the hull too before you pour foam. The way I did mine was to fit the sole and scribe a pencil line where the top of the sole met the sides (no weight on the sole). Then with a bevelled piece of 1/2" x 1" x 6" scrap set below the first line, mark a second line along the bottom of the scrap strip giving you the top of the cleat.

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:45 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:51 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Perfect. A few builders have almost missed those and it would be a real pain to do after pouring. Once the sole is in and taped, you'll find things move quickly. The amount of sanding and fairing goes way down because you are getting better at taping and the interior generally isn't as fussy with a lot of areas hidden under lockers and decks.

After two seasons of knocking about, my OB17 looks like the day I splashed her except for a bit of beach rash on the lower stem even with the graphite. At some point I will probably laminate a kevlar patch onto any areas showing wear. These are tough little ships - I have been airborne many times and landed so hard that my spine screamed but no sign of any cracking or other damage to the boat.

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:09 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:25 pm
by Lucky_Louis
As long as the foam Part A and Part B are warm when you mix, you'll be fine, the reaction is exothermic like epoxy curing and generates it's own heat. I filled everything but supplemented with chunks of styrofoam to stretch the 2 part. It really does make everything extremely stiff. An added bonus is the insulating properties ( warm feet in cold water) and the sound deadening. The hull is very quiet with no oil-canning or drumming. Personally, I feel Jacques could make foam a part of the scantlings for all the small, planing hulls instead of an option.

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:40 pm
by Steve_MA
cape man wrote: How do you like the PVC clamps compared to spring clamps?
PVC clamps are great. Cut them thin and you can spread them wider. Mine where mostly 1/2 to 3/4 inches. Made from 1.5" PVC. I cut them with a chop saw, sometimes the break and go flying...watch out 8O

Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:38 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:32 am
by Lucky_Louis
Nice looking seats. That layout provides a lot of interior space. Are you eliminating the casting deck altogether?

Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:32 pm
by TomW
Jim looking good. Your moving right along with the boat.

Tom

Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 5:25 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:45 am
by Lucky_Louis
Good point with getting the tank first. I had to adjust height and bump out "B" after the fact and it was a pain. Also had to make space for the elbow at the filler neck.

Framing was pretty simple, I used 2 x 2"x4"'s and a couple of 2"x2" fillers supported by a couple of 2"x4" posts

Image

And a nice wide cleat along the hull. The fillers formed the sides of the hatch openings. It doesn't really show but the low strips across the tank are actually filling slots in the tank (look at the sides of the tank). Under the tank is high density, closed cell foam pads to allow room for expansion. After two seasons, no problems.

Here's the almost end result..
Image

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:08 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:23 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Looks great Jim. If it were me, I'd call it done. You have met the objectives of stiffening the floor and provided the specified volume of flotation foam. For the pocket under the anchor locker, I drilled a 3" hole with a hole saw and just poured it in until it fizzed out. Two 12 oz batches I think. That bow section is unbelievably stiff and solid. I feel I could hit a deadhead at 40 knots and survive with not much more than a little crush zone.

Strangely, we even used exactly the same fairing board. Too funny! I found that the 3M green 30 grit made short work of the foam levelling.

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:54 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:57 am
by Lucky_Louis
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:00 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:01 pm
by TomW
Nice Jim, another step done with the foam, and a new 4 st to boot. That is the motor I'm thinking of also do you mind my asking what the general price was up in your neck of the woods.

Tom

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:29 pm
by Cracker Larry
I'm jealous 8)

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:39 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:45 am
by Lucky_Louis
Sweet engine Jim, she'll fly with that one. Expect 45 knots or so. What's the weight of the 90?

Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:59 am
by dborecky
Lucky_Louis wrote:Sweet engine Jim, she'll fly with that one. Expect 45 knots or so. What's the weight of the 90?
I read 60 on that engine....

Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:00 am
by Lucky_Louis
D'oh.....

A nicer guy might have let me slide on that :oops:

:wink:

Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:28 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:50 pm
by Lucky_Louis
excellent! the reason for the question involved the self bailing capability of your OB17. If you put the battery under a console and the fuel cell under the casting deck, your trim will be darn near perfect. I would shim up the sole with strips of 1/2" plywood to buy a little load (extra 165 pounds or so) but she'll self bail with 2 adults for sure. At 400 pounds for my OPTI 75 with a SS prop, I'm stern heavy by about an 1" even after I raised my sole the 1/2" A boat is much more sensitive to weight at the ends than in the middle so the difference of 150 odd pounds between yours and mine will be very noticable. Nice looking engine too. Very similiar shape to the E-Tec.

Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:47 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:57 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Trim has never been an issue for this hull. It loves to run flat and solid as a rock. I've never considered trim tabs or an engine fin. I love to tweak the engine trim at WOT to squeeze that last 3-4 knots out of her but the attitude of the boat changes very little with trim inputs. I do a lot of trolling for salmon in sloppy water so self bailing would have been nice to have but it won't work with my setup - I like to keep my feet dry :?

Don't sweat the balance at planing speeds, she's very forgiving and not really sensitive to load placement thanks to the shallow "V" and generous beam.

Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:05 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:11 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:27 am
by Lucky_Louis
Awesome work Jim, looks great. The only issue I had with the interior was near the bow, I recall it got a little awkward moving around up there.

The 6 oz. is a good idea, will save some fairing later even it will add weight and cost.

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:17 am
by TomW
Now that is some nice work Jim!

Tom

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:17 pm
by Murry
very nice :!:

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:26 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:24 pm
by Cracker Larry
That's looking good Jim! Very clean. The woven cloth gives me a fit.
To glass the sole, sides, and frame E added 9 lbs. Thought it was worth it for less fairing and more abrasion resistance.
Certainly worth it. Are you weighing all components as you add them?

Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 5:25 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:39 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:29 am
by sideslippa
G'Day Jim,
I have been looking through your build progress with avid interest, I really appreciate your quality effort and high standards. I have recently ordered plans for same boat. I am keen to study the plans and get started. The boat will replace my exsisting 13 foot aluminum boat.

Regards Steve.

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:49 pm
by JIM M
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:22 pm
by sideslippa
Yep... I intend to submitt photo's etc it is all part of the fun hey!!

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:49 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:33 am
by Lucky_Louis
Great to hear from you again Jim.

Nice work on the casting deck. Fuel tank going in there?

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 12:05 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:08 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 10:49 am
by Lucky_Louis
Great update Jim. Very creative solution to holding the cleats against the hull. It would make a good tutorial.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 7:48 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:06 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:26 pm
by Murry
Very nice work Jim!

Thanks for posting your progress.

Daniel

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 2:04 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:44 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:56 am
by Lucky_Louis
Great progress Jim! This is the first twin console OB17 I've watched come together and you're setting the benchmark quite high.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:07 am
by sideslippa
I like the shape of those consols Jim...Nicely done.

Slippa :)

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:35 am
by cape man
Love the consoles. Really clean work. She's gonna be a beauty!

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 2:43 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:59 am
by bwd3
I would consider rounding the edges of those side consoles -a lot!
Having spent some time in small whalers and similar side console boats, I have had a good few bruises from side consoles, moving between them underway or at anchor. They tend to line up with bony parts of the legs.
If you want to round them, you could just use 2x corner blocking to get "meat" to round down into.
I would try for at leat a 1/2 inch radius, a router would make it easy, on the bench after dry fitting....
Also, since the consoles give limited protection, I would prefer a decent walkway between them, and just the minimal real estate for controls....
...opinions may vary ;)

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:39 am
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:05 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:37 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Nice work Jim! Keep it up, the end is close than you think :D

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 2:55 am
by Fonda@kauai
I missed this one :oops: Really nice clean work. Looks great 8)

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 6:59 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:24 am
by sideslippa
Very tidy workmanship there Jim! I am looking foward to working on the inside of mine. few more weeks to go.

best regards Slippa

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:01 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:01 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:33 am
by Lucky_Louis
Excellent! Have you decided on what you're coating the sole and casting deck with yet?

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:21 am
by kdog
Cool, another OB17 nearing completion. :D

Looks real good, very clean work.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:51 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:43 am
by Lucky_Louis
:lol: All right then, gray carpet it is! :lol:

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:47 pm
by Boater45
Jim,

WOW!!! Thanks for posting your pic's and progress. :D I started to get frustrated with my build and have backed off a bit but you are motivating me. Great looking build keep posting!!!

Boater45 (Will)

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 6:12 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:51 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:14 am
by a_Adel
Looking so good Jim
very sharp.
Love your work with the hatches, any details or more pics how you did them, bracing/drainage?

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:32 am
by Lucky_Louis
Nice work Jim! What are you planning for the forward locker and for under the casting deck? The centerline hole has me guessing....

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:01 pm
by peter-curacao
Lucky_Louis wrote: The centerline hole has me guessing....
I think it's to put backingplates under the sole for a pedestal ? Looking great Jim 8)

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:52 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:58 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:33 pm
by Cracker Larry
I carry 2 on my OD 18. If it's mostly sand and mud, which it is here, a danforth style is usually best. We use a 10 lb, rigged with 8' feet of 1/4 chain and 200' of 1/2 line. They are the best for sand and mud, but can bend in rocks. This is our light duty, general purpose fishing and lunch hook anchor.

Image

My all around favorite, that is reliable in almost any type bottom is the claw type..

Image

It holds good in sand, mud and any rock or coral it gets a bite on, and is strong enough not to bend, ever. I carry one of these, a 13 lb. with 12' of 3/8 chain and 350' of 5/8 line. It will hold the boat in any condition. Guaranteed :D I use it fishing a lot because it doesn't need much line out to hold the boat, so we don't swing around very much.

Only buy name brand anchors, Bruce, Danforth, Fortress, CQR, never a walmart look-a-like. Use at least 6' of galvanized chain shackled to the anchor and enough line to equal at least 5 times the expected anchoring depth. Many experts say 7 times the depth. The claw type requires less scope than the others. There may be times when you will bet your boat on your anchor, it has to be good.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:40 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:02 pm
by Cracker Larry
If you can only get one, I'd get a claw type instead, about 12 pounds. Most of them are in KG, so 5 or 6 KG. A few feet of chain, at least 100 ft. of 1/2 line and she'll hold.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:13 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:28 pm
by Lucky_Louis
The Danforth is a great general purpose anchor and stows nicely on a small boat. I went with a Bruce for the reasons Larry mentioned. Ten feet of 1/4" galvanized chain, 200' of 1/2" nylon. Plenty of room for more in the forward lazarette.

Image

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:03 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:28 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Looks like it's going to be good and comfy! Proportioning and spacing looks spot on.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:32 pm
by TomW
Jim looking nice. Like the controls and wheel.

Tom

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:07 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:16 pm
by fisherman12
Hi Jim
I have 1 question ,are you going to put a windshield on the consoles and is it going across the consoles? like a walkthur type , as that is what i'm thinking about on my build

and BTW thank you very much for your responds on my e-mail , but i have 1 :?: on the 7.5gal gas tanks , how did you rig up those? are you using those 1 at a time or are they rig together?
maybe some1 else can chine on that :?: too :D

but Jim , i very much like your build and lay out too as i'm going the same lay out too as yours :D
so maybe (please) can you sent me the seating arrangement spec , but i'm in no way near that stage maybe in a year or 2 from now [-o< , need to get my bottom and sides on first (you think) :D :D :D

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:08 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:44 pm
by fisherman12
Hi Jim

oh i agree on the windshield with a canvas because of the cold rain and more comfortable too as i live in the northeast and the spring time can get a little cooool and thats why i'm leaning towards that way too , but i'm thinking about making my own walkthur windshield too as lexan, you can bend it pretty easy with a propane torch , as i have read some post on this and also i'm put up a Bimini top too as the sun can be a little to hot
The fuel tanks are rigged to use one at a time, put quick connects on the fuel line and tanks, wanted to keep it simple.
ahhhh , ok , cause i was thinking of how to rig 2 portable gas tanks maybe i can get a custom tank and have 1 tank or maybe not , we'll see , when i get to that stage :D

seat layout - ok cool , thanks

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:17 am
by TomW
I'd check with Lucky Louis on gas tanks as I think he put in a permanent tank. Much safer and better overall.

Tom

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 7:35 am
by sideslippa
TomW wrote:I'd check with Lucky Louis on gas tanks as I think he put in a permanent tank. Much safer and better overall.

Tom
Yea, I think it is difficult to put a tank under the sole in this model boat simply because it has a centre stringer and not alot of deadrise. So it would be complicated to put tanks either side of the centre stringer...Imagine the plumbing the cost and the lost flotation space.

I think for permanet tank the best spot is under the cast deck floor for centre consol and maybe twin tanks under cast deck either side for the twin consol setup.

Me? Well... I have only got a portable 45 litre under the cast deck for now(Don't worry Tom it is not going to be permanent). The reason? well I am not too sure on weight and balance. You do not want to put alot of weight up the front only to find your boat is bow heavy with a full tank of fuel. My engine is lighter than Lucky Louis used on his boat and I personaly dislike bow heavy broachy boats...yuk!
I raised my cast deck height to allow for the tank which is easily removed. You can always install a more permanent setup later when you are satisfyed with C/G and balance. The fuel line can run up through and under the gunwhale...mine is.

The only space in the rear of the boat above sole is in the sides of the boat from gunnel to sole, obviously need to be twin tanks and custom made. If need be I will make mine from vinyl ester (Deracain) type resin from foam molds...fair bit of work though.

Ok there is something to think about.

Steve.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:01 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 5:34 pm
by sideslippa
JIM M wrote:I moved my consoles 12" forward of what the plans show, a lighter engine, fuel in the bow, she might be a little bow heavy. Like Slippa I didn't know if CG would be correct. my tanks are behind the casting deck, between the consoles. If balance is good I can easily switch to a permanent tank in the future.
Yeah, Good thinking I rekon. good to see you back at it there Jim

Steve.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:09 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:49 pm
by fisherman12
hi jim

ahhh no problem my friend , take your time , i have a lonnnng ways to go until i get to that stage of my build anyways , haven't got the money to get my plywood for the bottom & sides

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:48 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:23 am
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:45 pm
by fisherman12
Hi Jim
Ahhh :doh: , why are we making the console taller, if me , i would make it all 1 windshield with a hinge in the middle , but it looks fine with me , but lets see a pic with the windshield on too :D

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:54 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:35 am
by fisherman12
hiya Jim
maybe to heavy that high
ahh i see why now you made your console a little higher, good thought
as soon as I make them
ok cool beans
looking forward to the pics

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:56 am
by sideslippa
G'day Jim, I like your consol extensions, they will help keep some spray off your equipment. Maybe they may be looking even better if made from perspex or similar... like little windscreens. Probably more practicle too.

Steve

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 1:59 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:41 pm
by Lucky_Louis
Wake up Jim, time to start building again! Slippa slipped past ya... :D

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:45 pm
by JIM M
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Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 10:23 pm
by kdog
Sorry to hear about your Mother-in-law Jim. I hear you about your job, you can't pass up those extra hours these days.

The OB17 junkies will be here to help when you get back to it.

Re: OB17 some assembly required

Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:03 pm
by sideslippa
G'day Jim, sorry things are not so good for you right now. There will be time in the future for the boat. Keep chipping away at it. It is very worth it.

I had to make a few sacrifices to get mine done...I even had to give up fishing for 6 months! Plenty of fishing now though, I hope this gives you encouragement.

Cheers! Slippa.