Kept on wrestling with long fairingboards, sandpaper 60, filler and a lot of self motivation. I used some filler from Hempel and that is really light stuff and sands good after 24 hours. The guy on the boat is Herman, he is a frequent guest on a small camping near our village. Whenever possible he helps with moral support. Great guy, had 3 heart attacks this year, but keeps coming, smiling and joking. Thanks Herman!!
You like the two-tone fairing? The skeg is still a bit rough and needs at least 3 more layers biax, so it will look good after that.
FL26 build in Friesland
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After a lot, a lot of sanding and fooling around with filler putty, I reached a point where I couldn't resist anylonger to wipe on the first coat of primer. It is a high build primer of Hempel and it beautiful filled little scratches etc. There is still some work to do but overall it looks quit fair, no big nacks or bumps in the bow and were the panels are glued.
One of the very few changes to the plans is the transom. From the original plan I used 6 mm ply instead of 10. That one is covered with 2 layers biax and now I want to glue a 6 mm through and through mahogany plywood panel with a clear epoxy coating on the slightly thinner transom. The mahogany panel is much heavier then the okoumee plywood I used for the hull. This should give a real classic look to our boat.
With a little luck I hope to flip the hull within a week!
regards
jaap
One of the very few changes to the plans is the transom. From the original plan I used 6 mm ply instead of 10. That one is covered with 2 layers biax and now I want to glue a 6 mm through and through mahogany plywood panel with a clear epoxy coating on the slightly thinner transom. The mahogany panel is much heavier then the okoumee plywood I used for the hull. This should give a real classic look to our boat.
With a little luck I hope to flip the hull within a week!
regards
jaap
- peter-curacao
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Hallo Peter, it looks quit dark on the picture. I have stained the mahogany with some coloured lacquer to avoid the yellowing in the sun. It is a tip from friends who are in painting an building yachts for a long time. After that I putted a first epoxy coating on, but that didn't spread as good as lacquer does. It is the effect of some silicon of the surface (which isn't!!). I think the effect will dissapear after a few coats and some sanding. After a few coats it probably lightens too, when the surface is more equal.
jaap
jaap
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After a lot of sanding, we coated the hull with 2 layers of primer and the underwaterpart with 3 coats of some hempel underwater primer, a sticky in-between-coating and 1 layer with antifouling. I did some work on the rubrails, but could not finished that before flippingday. And that was today on saturdaymorning. We started at 08:30 and the whole things was done at 10:00, thanks to the very good help of my father in law, our neighbours Liekele en Grietsen, the always advisor Herman and the-best-help-one-can-get Thijs with his truck. The turning went very easy in the strops and everything is back in the shop now! It was a lot easier then expected.
jaap
jaap
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- peter-curacao
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