P-14 1958 CLASSIC GLASS RENOVATION

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
MTECHMARINE
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Post by MTECHMARINE »

Finally got some time to pass on the continuance of this project. A few weeks back I got a nice day near 70, and decided nows' the time to put on the S3 primer. Rolled and tipped, tipped and rolled. The finished product looked just like - yes, a barn brush job. 4 hour drying turned out to be 3 days. Then it got really cold and nasty so I couldn't sand it. Finally Last Thursday we got a break and crew started to sand. What a job. Now keep in mind this is a 13' 6" hull - 2 people (Yes, "Sandy" and I) spent 3 days and umpty discs and pads trying to smooth this stuff out. I finally gave up and ground it off with 80 grit discs. They would last about 10 minutes and even tho they felt sharp and were'nt plugged all they did was polish the stuff. Saturday it was a gorgeous day so I decided to graphite coat the bottom. Same roll and tip resulted in another barn job. The roller (new short nap acrylic proof) shed lint even tho I had blown it off B4 use. Nice and shiny but back to the brushmarks, sags and general uneveness.



Image

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Then that night after I covered the boat as best I could with my gazebo tent the first 3 feet or so blushed pretty badly.

Image

SO now with the hard work of
1st. fairing the bottom and dealing with uncured quickfair - - :?
2nd. refairing the bottom after priming - - :(
3rd. now I think I'll just re sand this graphite smooth with 320 and leave it dull. Thread on a high performance boating site after some discussion determined a sanded bottoms' faster than a slick one! And that matte surface looks pretty cool too.

I approach the Sterling application with a good deal of trepidation after these experiences. Any advice (besides a warm, dry place to work)?? :help:

Sterling should smooth out better. I'm going to try the upper portion of the transom 1st as a test.

MTECHMARINE
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Post by MTECHMARINE »

shine wrote:
MTECHMARINE wrote: Bottom is true to within .020 for the first 4 feet forward. After 50 years there are some humps & hollows forward of this, but were I to try to straighten that too we'd have a 2 ton boat!
That should be just fine. For the speeds you will take this boat, it will not be noticeable
Yeah, with any luck most of the bottom won't be touching the water! :P :P

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Mad Dog
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Post by Mad Dog »

MTECHMARINE wrote: Yeah, with any luck most of the bottom won't be touching the water! :P :P
I realy like the way you think! :D 8) :D 8) :D 8)

MD :wink:

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry »

Patience is a good thing in boatbuilding 8)

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry »

Patience is a good thing in boatbuilding

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tech_support
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Post by tech_support »

I think the spammer is blocked.

I wish some of the stimulus money could be spent tracking and shutting down spammers. We loose several hour a week of work time to deal with spam, mostly through email.

anonymous

Test, just a test

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+1

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peter-curacao
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Post by peter-curacao »

shine wrote:I think the spammer is blocked.
And back jeezzz what’s this guy’s problem?

MTECHMARINE
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Post by MTECHMARINE »

Got out the other day and sanded the graphite bottom with fine discs and only needed 3 discs and 2 hours to do the entire bottom. It now has a nice smooth matte graphite finish. Looks good.

SPRING HAS SPRUNG!

Orders in for vinyl for cushions, hydraulic hoses for steering and SS trim for the rubrail.

Now that the weather is getting better, the boats coming out of hibernation. Spent the weekend cleaning out my shop sos to be able to wheel the boat inside after finish applications. I expect to get the sides done this week and will post some pictures. Spent the last couple of weeks sorting and accumulating parts for the 3 motors I will use on this boat. All Mercurys from the mid 50's, 2 more or less stock, one highly modified. If you want to see some of what we are doing with motors take a look at this.

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/s ... php?t=6393

Master machinist Doug Kay has reworked my motor block similar to the Mark 40H shown here. :P :lol: :P

I need some rubber gunwale molding strip for another boat I am doing some work on. Can anyone here steer me in the right direction? All I seem to be able to find is insert type. I need some for both flange and shoebox type seams.

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Mad Dog
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Post by Mad Dog »

Were all those engines restorations or well kept? That's pretty cool stuff. The first thing that caught my eye was the pitch on prop with the performance gear case. :D 8O

That's going to be one nice classic restoration.

MD :wink:

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