1973 Lobster Boat - Painting!

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by tech_support »

JamieT wrote:Thanks Joel, sand with orbital sander? After sanding with 60 should I work my way back to 180 fill sand and paint? I need to change my water line as it is too high now. Should i worry about airborne bottom paint?
Primer fills 60/80 grit scratches pretty easy, then you sand the primer to 220 or so before paint.

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by Daddy »

TW28RJ wrote:I noticed that you replace the traditional lobster boat wheel.. if you didn't toss it I wouldn't mind grabbing it and refurbishing it for my TW28 build!

RJ
How could he do that, spoils the whole boat (just kidding) :P I am only made because you thought of it before I did!
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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by Daddy »

Really neat looking work, how many inches did you lose in the cabin by moving the controls/steering etc. forward of the bulkhead? I am building Nina and wouldnt mind sacrificing some space in the cabin if it was not too much so that I could max the cockpit space. Looks like you could easily cover the cables, wires, etc. with an easily removable panel if you wanted too. Really "salty" boat and I wish you had two wheels that you had kickin around :lol:
Daddy

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by JamieT »

RJ, I still have the original wheel. I chose to replace the wheel because most of the spokes were split and cleaning them seemed to magnify the faults. i am trying to figure out how to replace them. I am not a huge fan of the current wheel, however I picked up this one cheap on e-bay.

Daddy, I lost about 4” on the inside of the bulk head. I think I have a good idea on how to cover it up. I will be working on the box the next few nights and take some pictures.

I have 4 days off starting Thursday...going to try and finish the hull by Sunday night.....Thursday, sand all day, fill that night, sand again on Friday, prime on Sat, Sunday 3 coats of White. Joel weather permitting do you think this is possible. The system 3 seems to have a fast recoat time. Ordering my Paint now!

JT

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by TomW »

Jamie it depends on the primer, some need more than 24hrs to cure before sanding to the 220 or 330 for the top coat.

Tom
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Daddy
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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by Daddy »

JamieT wrote:RJ, I still have the original wheel. I chose to replace the wheel because most of the spokes were split and cleaning them seemed to magnify the faults. i am trying to figure out how to replace them. I am not a huge fan of the current wheel, however I picked up this one cheap on e-bay.

Daddy, I lost about 4” on the inside of the bulk head. I think I have a good idea on how to cover it up. I will be working on the box the next few nights and take some pictures.

I have 4 days off starting Thursday...going to try and finish the hull by Sunday night.....Thursday, sand all day, fill that night, sand again on Friday, prime on Sat, Sunday 3 coats of White. Joel weather permitting do you think this is possible. The system 3 seems to have a fast recoat time. Ordering my Paint now!

JT
Looks really good Jamie, 4 inches, that is amazing. Really neat looking work. I am going to give this a lot of thought for my Nina build. You must operate the boat mainly from a standing position? Thanks for the pics, I look forward to seeing more. Do you have a lathe, probably a cinch to turn new handles or I wonder if Jamestown could put you in touch with a supplier. :doh:
Daddy

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by JamieT »

Update and questions.
After 8 hours of sanding and now on my second coat of primer there are some areas that have lots of pin holes. The areas are patches where one of the previous owners filled in the old scuppers. Some of the holes are filling in and others are not. So will more paint eventually fill in the holes or do I need to fill with faring putty?
On rolling and tipping:
The system 3 says no need to thin on the primer. However I am having trouble getting rid of the roller pattern when tipping. If I only do a very small area at a time I seem to have better results. An input here would be great.
Is a 4th primer coat is it necessary to achieve an ultra smooth surface for top coat (just more of a base to sand flat). Or should I save the energy for sanding & buffing the final coat?
Image
Image
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Thanks
Jamie

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by TomW »

Jamie it is best not to thin the primer. If you are getting pin holes that are not being filled by it then yes apply some fairing compound and sand it smooth or better, just use a spatula and apply it smooth where they are. No need to roll and tip the primer use a short 3/8" nap roller on the primer. You will the sand it smooth with either 220 or 330 paper depending on your brand of topcoat. You want at least 3 coats of primer all over the boat prior to sanding so that you don't go through the primer.

Tom
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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by JamieT »

thanks Tom, that will save me some time.

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Re: 1973 Lobster Boat Engine Box Re-build

Post by JamieT »

Help...put 2 more coats of primer on the boat yesterday. However I rushed to finish the last coat applying at 5:00 PM. Went out to check on the boat around 8:00 and my truck already had a coat of due forming. Great. So this morning there are 5 or 6 runs of water through the paint. I know the paint is water based but the instructions say the paint can be damaged by water during curing time. Do I really have anything to worry about?? It was the last coat of primer (4th coat).
Jamie

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