Ok what's the secret...
- flatpicker
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Ok what's the secret...
...to taping so that the paint and/or epoxy/graphite doesn't bleed through. Just finished my last coat of topcoat and was planning on going back over the "meeting line" with more epoxy/graphite just for aesthetics. Thanks, Marty
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
Picture to show what you mean?
Assuming you mean making taping lines disappear...
You make tape edges dssappear by fairing, using fairing compound to build up a smooth surface at the tape edge, and then sanding it fair with a long board. When done, then seal with a couple coats of straight epoxy.
and some more layers... fairing board is homemade and seen at very top of picture on the roll mold frame...
... and some more... cheaper wood had some waves that needed to be faired out...
... and some more...
... almost done... with this side... excellent wood will not need as much...
... and making the tape liones on the skeg go away...
There are all sorts of pictures of this in the galleries. Or search the message board for fairing. I then sealed it all with 2 coats of epoxy...
...and the final seal coat was done with most of the bottom as level as possible to help a nice flow out of the epoxy... after a 100-120 grit sanding...
That was enough epoxy seal to hold up after the final sanding for primer.
Not sure if that answered your question. You don't need to make the tape entirely disappear, but this is typically what people do on boats where you don't see any tape lines. Fairing also helps minimize print bleed through of the glass, but it won't completely stop it if you use a dark color. This blue waterline dried out in the hot sun.
Here's the text from that picture...
As a curiosity, this is a closeup of the bootstrip. Yes, that is Glass weave that telegraphed through. Now, why is this noteworthy? On that area is epoxy faired over the glass, then fairing compound, then 3 or 4 coats of primer, then 3 or four coats of white LPU, and 2 or 3 coats clear, then light sanded, and 3 coats trim color followed by two more coats clear, and then two coats bootstripe, and clear. That adds up to potentially 19 coats of LPU on top of two seal coats of clear epoxy over fairing compound, over clear epoxy filling the weave. And the 6 oz glass pattern still telegraphed through from the dark blue heating up in the sun a few 85 to 90F days at the end of the summer. The trim color right next to the bootstripe, and the white, has no telegraphing at all. Case made?
If those weren't answers to your question... opps!
Assuming you mean making taping lines disappear...
You make tape edges dssappear by fairing, using fairing compound to build up a smooth surface at the tape edge, and then sanding it fair with a long board. When done, then seal with a couple coats of straight epoxy.
and some more layers... fairing board is homemade and seen at very top of picture on the roll mold frame...
... and some more... cheaper wood had some waves that needed to be faired out...
... and some more...
... almost done... with this side... excellent wood will not need as much...
... and making the tape liones on the skeg go away...
There are all sorts of pictures of this in the galleries. Or search the message board for fairing. I then sealed it all with 2 coats of epoxy...
...and the final seal coat was done with most of the bottom as level as possible to help a nice flow out of the epoxy... after a 100-120 grit sanding...
That was enough epoxy seal to hold up after the final sanding for primer.
Not sure if that answered your question. You don't need to make the tape entirely disappear, but this is typically what people do on boats where you don't see any tape lines. Fairing also helps minimize print bleed through of the glass, but it won't completely stop it if you use a dark color. This blue waterline dried out in the hot sun.
Here's the text from that picture...
As a curiosity, this is a closeup of the bootstrip. Yes, that is Glass weave that telegraphed through. Now, why is this noteworthy? On that area is epoxy faired over the glass, then fairing compound, then 3 or 4 coats of primer, then 3 or four coats of white LPU, and 2 or 3 coats clear, then light sanded, and 3 coats trim color followed by two more coats clear, and then two coats bootstripe, and clear. That adds up to potentially 19 coats of LPU on top of two seal coats of clear epoxy over fairing compound, over clear epoxy filling the weave. And the 6 oz glass pattern still telegraphed through from the dark blue heating up in the sun a few 85 to 90F days at the end of the summer. The trim color right next to the bootstripe, and the white, has no telegraphing at all. Case made?
If those weren't answers to your question... opps!
- flatpicker
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
Wow, thanks ks8. That was certainly a nice detailed answer. I guess I should have been more specific. What I meant was how do I keep the paint and or epoxy/graphite from bleeding through the "masking tape or painters tape."
Thanks again for you response
Marty
Thanks again for you response
Marty
- gk108
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
You must be referring to paint running up under the tape. After you get the tape laid down where you want it, you have to seal the edge. Usually, just running down that edge with the backside of your fingernail will do the trick.
CC, D15, V10
- flatpicker
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
Thank you! I'll be sure to seal it this time. BTW, how long should I let the topcoat cure before I put tape (painters tape) on it?
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
You can also use the backside of a spoon to seal the edges, and give your fingernail a rest.
How long? It depends on the paint and the environmentals. It will probably need to dry enough to be sandable anyway, and then you should probably lightly sand to give the trim or WL something to grip for adhesion. What's the plan? I waited a couple days before sanding with 180 and very lightly with 220 for this trim color. So far it is still stuckeded.
And another few days before the same prep for the WL. S3 LPU... 3-4 coats color, last 2 crosslinked, then 2 coats clear crosslinked. Topsides sprayed with a detail gun HVLP. WL was brushed and also had two coats clear final. The white has orange peel, but it works for me. Sure can't shave in the reflection, but it will hide the bumps and scrapes.
- flatpicker
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Re: Ok what's the secret...
ks8 wrote:...
What's the plan? ...
to lay one last layer of graphite/epoxy mixture near the tape line to give it a sharper edge. My graphite/epoxy bled thru just as my topcoat did. Is a day and a half long enough to cure?
Thanks for all of your help in this matter. Here's a few pics for you!
Marty
My favorite!!
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