1984 Grady White Seafarer Transom Rebuild

[tech_support]

Thanks for all the pictures. With your permission I would like to use your thread as the basis for a new tutorial on transom repair.

Joel

[VeroWing]

Thanks for all the pictures. With your permission I would like to use your thread as the basis for a new tutorial on transom repair.

Joel

Sure Joel, I'd be honored. Thats why I documented it, figured it may help others out down the road(or river) needing similar repairs.
Today I drilled out the cockpit self-draining(scuppers) holes. As with the bilge drain, I first oversize drilled it by approximately 1/4". Then I filled it in with an epoxy/fiberglass/wood flour paste, and let it set up. Next I drilled it correct size for brass sleeve to fit in. You can see the 1/8"-3/16" epoxy coating throughout the drilled holes, separating wood transom material from from outside elements.




Next I'm installing brass throughhull sleeves in these openings, after coating holes and outside of sleeves with 3M 5200. That should actually give transom three layers of protection from water reaching wood. First the brass sleeve, next the 3M 5200, and finally the epoxy layer coating holes. I plan to use this method on every attaching screw, hardware, etc., going into this transom, with the exception of adding brass sleeves. Its a little extra work now, but should pay off big time for years to come.

Also sanded and smoothed fairing mix on some of the seams, and part of the transom notch , and added some glazing putty to smooth out some small imperfections. Mixed a small batch of epoxy and added a little white pigment, then painted it over a few of the seams, to see how it looked. Although it settles to a smooth finish, the color was off from existing color, and I'm concerned that epoxy doesn't really adhere that well to existing gelcoat. Local paint supplier gave me a cup of brown pigment that I'm sure I could adjust color to match with.



I'd love to just clean it up, sand it smooth, and paint the complete splash area. I would even consider painting the complete boat, but I don't want to have to repaint every few years. Thats' why I'm torn between just match coloring epoxy and covering only seams and added transom height, smoothing out to edge of existing gelcoat. If I do this, then I can restore existing gelcoat and just keep up with it, and not worry about about recoating in a few years.

Decisions, decisions, decisions. I think I'll be calling BBC and see what the pros think.

[Chief Brody]

Vero...a good paint job with Awlgrip will last many years....alot of high end boats use it as a brand new finish instead of gelcoat.......unless its below the waterline, why not paint it? The project is coming along nicely.

[VeroWing]

Vero...a good paint job with Awlgrip will last many years....alot of high end boats use it as a brand new finish instead of gelcoat.......unless its below the waterline, why not paint it? The project is coming along nicely.

Chief, checked out Awlgrip as well as a few other finish coat alternatives today. You're right about Awlgrips' longevity. After checking in with Joel, decided to try some System Three coating for just the splash area and top of transom extension. This will allow me to go ahead and hang twin outboards an get them set up.

I don't want to rush a decision on which finish to go with, so if I don't like what I see after doing the splashwell, I'll consider an alternative.

[Chief Brody]

sounds like a plan,,,lets see the shiney results!

[VeroWing]

Finally got a break in the weather today for a few hours, and wetsanded everything down with 400 sandpaper. Rinsed area thoroughly and set up a fan to air dry real good. After drying, applied first coat of "System 3" finish coat. Went on nicely and I luckily matched color pretty good. Started raining again when I was almost finished, so I quickly had to jury rig a cover for painted area.
All in all, I'm very happy with the results of the first coat of finish coating. If weather permits, I'll rub it out some tomorrow, and apply another coat. I'm starting to see results of all the hard work that went into this project, and I could not be happier. Should be hanging those outboards soon.

[VeroWing]

Yesterday I wetsanded complete splash area from below cap down, and from the flip up curtain wall, back to and including interior and exterior stern transom extension, with #400 sandpaper. Also sanded corner of splash floor and transom from one side to the other enough to remove existing gelcoat. Reason was because there was a hairline crack in existing gelcoat only from the previous weak transom flexing. I used a die grinder with a small barrel(1/4" diameter) sandpaper attachment, and quickly removed gelcoat down to fiberglass. Mixed batch of epoxy and applied several coats over this area to build it up even with surrounding gelcoat.

Today I first went over and detailed out corners, edges, etc., to where they were ready for coating. Smoothed out epoxy applied day before too. Next I cleaned all areas to be coated with dish detergent and water, then rinsed thoroughly. Let it dry with the help of a portable fan, and wiped it down again with a clean cloth. Complete area had previously been wiped down numerous times with clean rags soaked with acetone.

Color mixed System 3 coating to match existing hull gelcoat, and applied second and final coating to complete splash area, from cap down to, and including sole, interior transom, notch, and exterior transom where new extension was built, feathering to existing exterior gelcoat.

Color on second coat was perfect match of existing gelcoat. Complete luck on that. After drying, there are no signs or indications that any work has ever taken place. If I didn't know where the seams were, I would never be able to find them. System 3 coating smooths out on its own, after being applied with a brush only, and looks fantastic. I could not be happier with results. Take a look at some of pics below.











Tomorrow will try and install brass drain tubes in self bailing scuppers(4) in splash area, and one in the bilge. Appears that "loaner" flaring tool will only be good for bilge tube. Tubes for scuppers are too large for this tool. I'll have to come up with something.

[Chief Brody]

Sweet Ginger Brown......that came out nice....Just 2 coats of paint? No primer coat? That material did a nice job covering the body work.....

So when are you opening your own shop?

[visko]

Looks great Mike

[VeroWing]

Looks great Mike

Thanks George. Yesterday I installed brass tubes into holes cut and epoxy coated in transom for cockpit drains. Loaner flare tool was correct size for bilge drain tube, but I had to order and wait until yesterday for 1 1/4" flare tube to use on cockpit drains(scuppers).
I had tried to install them without flare tool, and actually did get one installed, although I am not happy with how it looks. I messed up two more tubes trying to install more of them, and eventually gave up and ordered proper size flare tool, and two more tubes to replaced the ones I ruined. I should have known better, and now I do.








Flares made with tool came out great, and look as good as factory ones.