Moonfish Build

[chrisobee]

Hey guys. The plans call for a fg splice for the deck on the bottom side only. Does this mean just one piece of fg tape? I have never done one before so I don't know how many layers to put down. Thanks. Will be getting some pictures up at least by sat. possibly sooner.

Yes one layer of tape. You should probably look at the FAQ and How Tos there is a wealth of information there.

[Cracker Larry]

I'll pull the plans and take a look, standby..

Hey guys. The plans call for a fg splice for the deck on the bottom side only. Does this mean just one piece of fg tape?

OK, got them. First, it calls for the splice to be on the "inside" face only, not on the bottom side Yes, just one layer of tape. I'd put some epoxy and wood flour glue in the joint before taping it. This splice will be mostly temporary to begin with, just to hold things together. Notice that the cockpit cut out will later eliminate the majority of the splice.

[fishin']

I did notice that larry, that's why I thought more than one layer might be good, but I also see how in the end it isn't really needed at all. Thanks.

Chrisobee- I did look at the how to's and didn't see one relating to FG splices and definitely not one that told me how to do it specifically for this build. There is a lot of great information there. Thanks for the help.

[Cracker Larry]

I did notice that larry, that's why I thought more than one layer might be good,

In almost all cases, if 2 layers are needed then 2 layers will be clearly specified. It's a small boat with small forces involed and you want to keep the weight down for good sailing performance. Just follow the notes one step at a time and most things will become self evident as you progress. No need to second guess the designer, he's really pretty good

Don't hesitate to ask questions if you don't understand something

[fishin']

thanks Larry. I don't doubt jacques at all. I am just learning how to interpret the plans. It doesn't say one layer or two layers and I just need to learn that if it doesn't specify then probably the least amount is ok.

[Cracker Larry]

I am just learning how to interpret the plans.

Yes, it takes some time to grasp all the information that's on them, and where to find it

It doesn't say one layer or two layers and I just need to learn that if it doesn't specify then probably the least amount is ok.

Actually it does say. You just haven't found it yet Look at Construction drawing B244/3. Bottom left,

Note 4. Use FG splices to assemble long panels, one layer tape each side.

That particular deck panel was specified to tape the inside only in the building notes, so that's every thing you need to know. Just have to hunt around a little bit. You'll get it

[fishin']

darn, I was hoping not to ask any questions that were so obviously answered on the plans. Thanks again.

Now that I see those notes I have another question though. Those notes say to make the mast step out of 3/4" ply but the drawings on b244/6 don't show that. I guess I'll go with the drawings? Also those same drawings show one layer of 3/8 on one side of the daggerboard and two layers of 3/8 on the other side. That is a problem because I don't have any 3/8 since the bom only calls for 1/2 and 1/4. Should I just make out of 1/2". The problem then becomes that the mast step area becomes to wide. Using 1/2 for the daggerboard trunk the mast step ends up at 2 3/4' instead of 2-1/4 I guess I could just block it back down with a piece of 1/4" on each side? keep in mind when you look at the measurements that the 1x1 block near the daggerboard needs to be more like 1-1/4" because the daggerboard needs 1/8 clearance on both sides according to the notes on that page.

I hope all that makes sense and I am not asking another question that is answered somewhere in the plans. (maybe I should have picked a set of plans where I could follow someone else's build)

[Cracker Larry]

Those notes say to make the mast step out of 3/4" ply but the drawings on b244/6 don't show that. I guess I'll go with the drawings?

No, you have to do both. That's what I'm saying about the information being spread around, it's like an Easter egg hunt There is no redundant information, if it's presented on one drawing or note, it won't be repeated on another. You have to assimilate all the information. The mast step is nothing more than a small block of 3/4 glued flat to the hull. This keeps the mast from bearing directly on the hull panel. Drawinng 244/6 just shows appendages. The 3/4 mast step will fit inside the mast box and flat to the hull.

Also those same drawings show one layer of 3/8 on one side of the daggerboard and two layers of 3/8 on the other side. That is a problem because I don't have any 3/8 since the bom only calls for 1/2 and 1/4. Should I just make out of 1/2". The problem then becomes that the mast step area becomes to wide. Using 1/2 for the daggerboard trunk the mast step ends up at 2 3/4' instead of 2-1/4 I guess I could just block it back down with a piece of 1/4" on each side?

Now that is a mystery that I'm not sure how to answer. The plans clearly show the 3/8 ply, but there is no 3/8 listed in the BOM I'm not sure why the daggerboard is offset 3/8 to port either

keep in mind when you look at the measurements that the 1x1 block near the daggerboard needs to be more like 1-1/4" because the daggerboard needs 1/8 clearance on both sides according to the notes on that page

I see that, and this further muddies the water. Usually solid stock lumber is specified by it's nominal thickness. A lumberyard 1X1 is actually 3/4 X 3/4. But the daggerboard is made from 2 layers of 1/2 ply, making it a full 1", plus I'd give it a layer of glass cloth. So you are correct, that dimension need to be at least 1 1/4- 1 3/8. Maybe that's a typo and it should be a 2X2 instead of a 1X1. That would almost make it right. Something isn't exactly right with the plans, which does happen sometimes.

If it were me, instead of the weird 3/8 stagger, I'd use a piece of 1/2 on each side, and center the board in the slot, then rip the spacer blocks from 2X stock to achieve the 1 1/2 width. Mock it up and adjust accordingly. I doubt any of it is critical.

But the plans should be correct and not cause so much aggravation. If we wanted to figure it all out ourselves, we wouldn't need the plans. I suggest you post this question to JacqueS, in the Sailboat section here http://forums.bateau2.com/viewforum.php?f=3 and see what his thoughts are. He may have something in mind that I'm not picking up on, or it may just be a typo.

(maybe I should have picked a set of plans where I could follow someone else's build)

Naw, let's blaze a trail that someone else can follow. Nothing but a thing

[chrisobee]

These are nothing but details. Don't let it get you down.

[fishin']

Thanks again for all the help Larry. My confusion on the mast step issue was from not realizing the difference between a mast step and trunk, thanks. As for the other issue I think what you suggest may be the best solution but I posted the question over in sailboats to see if jacques will respond. What do you prefer for marking the curved lines when cutting frames and stringers? small diameter PVC?

Chrisobee thanks for the encouragement with yalls help I'll make it through.