Phantom 18...

[CMP]

Finally getting around to opening plans I bought 4 years ago and noticed that in the stringer and bulkhead plans, there are no dimensions for the "slots" that create the shape of the stringer/bulkhead matrix. Any ideas???

CMP

[peter-curacao]

In most cases, 3" (75 mm) will be fine but there is no absolute rule. Let's do it at 3". Draw a line parallel to the sole (the upper face of the stringer), 3" down.

http://bateau2.com/index.php?option=com ... s&Itemid=7

[BassMunn]

No 3" won't work.
You need to look at your stringer dimension drawing, every 12" there is a height measurement. You work out at which point on the stringer a particular bulkhead will sit and take your height measurement from that. The slot size in each bulkhead is different.
Cut the slots into the bulkheads and not the stringers.

You can also measure from the top of the bulkhead down (Probably the easier way, as the measurement from the top down will always be the same)

[CMP]

Yeah, I agree Mun. WHen I get back to it tomorrow, I'll try your suggestion and see if it works. It appears that there are slots in bot, which makes sense to me as it would fit together better that way, but I need to get back into it with a fresh mind. Cleaning and re-configuring the shop was mind-numbing...

CMP

[Steven]

Yeah, I agree Mun. WHen I get back to it tomorrow, I'll try your suggestion and see if it works. It appears that there are slots in bot, which makes sense to me as it would fit together better that way, but I need to get back into it with a fresh mind. Cleaning and re-configuring the shop was mind-numbing...

CMP

You can notch the stringer and frame, which will make it fit like a puzzle. You can also just notch the frame. If you are accurate and notch both, it should be self squaring. I notched just the frames on my OB19, as I wanted to glass the stringers in first then add the frames and glass them in. I like the idea of a stringer with no cuts besides a hole or two for chase tubes.

[CMP]

Actually looking at the "Structure-Dimensions" sheet as I type. There are no depths on the slots but there are good location measurements so I think I can simply use the 1' to 1" scale to get the depths right unless someone who has already done this has the dims already figured. No big deal really. Another question on the camber called out on the plans; Is it simply a matter the dimension called out at the center creating the camber? In other words, I plan to use a batten to strike a fair camber from zero on both ends and in the center, use the camber call-out (1/4" on the "bottom panel, for instance). BTW, I'm jig-building this one. Thanks again...

CMP

[Steven]

Actually looking at the "Structure-Dimensions" sheet as I type. There are no depths on the slots but there are good location measurements so I think I can simply use the 1' to 1" scale to get the depths right unless someone who has already done this has the dims already figured. No big deal really. Another question on the camber called out on the plans; Is it simply a matter the dimension called out at the center creating the camber? In other words, I plan to use a batten to strike a fair camber from zero on both ends and in the center, use the camber call-out (1/4" on the "bottom panel, for instance). BTW, I'm jig-building this one. Thanks again...

CMP

The notches arent' critical. You should keep them at or less then half the width of the stringer. You are correct on the camber. Mark the 1/4" and then connect the two enpoints and 1/4" offset at center with a batten and draw the curve.

[CMP]

Thx Steven. I figured out the math and have been splicing panels together as well as scribing bulkheads-about 1/2 done today. Time to head out to watch the Patriots dismantle the Colts!!!

CMP