Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Hello all. I was going to wait until Christmas when I am certain Santa is bringing plans from Bateau, but I have also been asking a lot of questions so what the heck.

I still have not made a final decision on core material, as budget is the constraint. Specifically, I have all the Nidacore I need for the flat panels, but as we now know that is a poor choice for hull. I can get any of Nida's products at a significant discount so I am leaning towards their version of Diviylcell/Klegcel etc. which is a PET foam. I checked out that University study that was referenced and although some of the foams are a little stronger then others, I am confident a good layup and adequate schedule will yield a decent boat. I'll be vacuum bagging wherever possible and if in doubt, will add cloth.

I already have a fairly new Evinrude 115. I'll be using a hydraulic jack plate as I already have one through my Bass Club, and adding Baystar hydraulic steering too. I have a fuel tank too but hope to get one that fits under the sole.

I still have not made a final decision on steering stakes/skeg but am leaning towards skg only to keep fairing simple. I'll for sure run a reverse chine that will continue to the front to double as a spray rail.

I also plan to build a mold to lay up the entire top, and flare the top of the sheers when I lay up the hull, then the two can simply laminate together, as well as along the tops of the bulkheads and other tops of compartments that will serve as structural members/top support. With a little width up front it will act like an extra spray rail as well. Also, using a mold for the top will allow me to have the hatch openings lowered and contoured for waterproofing and provide a nice flat finished surface once hatches are in. I'll add horizontal sections across the tops of the Nida bulkheads and other vertical support surfaces as they show in their manual so as to get a really solid support for the top and a strong structure (you'll see when the pictures come out) Looks kind of like an i-beam and provides lots of surface to bond the top to. I did this on my previous rebuild and it's really solid.

I plan to make the cockpit smaller with double console (bass boat) and then pretty it up with the Livorsi bling, Wise bass boat bench seating, electronics, graphics etc. If I can manage 80 -100 hours a month I may be able to get her in for this summer....but plan B is to use the old boat so as to not rush - I really want to get a nice finish.

Anyway, this is already too long. Many thanks to Jacques, Shine, Tom, Bassmunn, and the rest of the gang - I have been skulking on this site for months and have learned a lot.

Can anyone point me to the page on how to load up images in this field? Any other input is welcome, Merry Christmas everyone!

Mark

Mark there are two ways to do it one is to upload to the Gallery here in which case the instructions are here. http://gallery.bateau2.com/faq.php#How_ ... oad_a_file

To place a picture in a thread http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8718

If you have any questions ask.

Tom

Thanks Tom !

Draft deck plan below. The light grey is stuff under the deck, except the outline which is hte approx outline of the hull, the outer darker line representing the overhang. It's a little busy but a start....

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... c_2009.JPG

A little small Mark, let's try this http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... c_2009.JPG

Tom

Nice Layout Mark!

Joe H

To build this all one-off from foam core is one serious project. It looks like you have about 17 different hatches. It can definitely be done, but with all these parts being custom made most ly from templates it goin to take at least double the hours of a standard PH18

With that much power I would absolutely have chines/lifting strakes on the bottom, they will help to reduce the chance of chine walking as you go faster. The "flat" portion of of these chines provide stability. IF you do not have them, the amount of chine in the water as you go faster get smaller, and at the very high speeds, there is very little hull in the water and almost no chine in the water (imagine the shape of the wetted portion of the hull as your looking up from the bottom of the lake as boat flys over you at 50 mph) with no or very little chine in the water, the hull acts like a "teater totter", its very unstable and prone to violently increasing oscillations - chine walking

Thanks Shine! I know I am in for a lot of work. If I need to, I will take two winters to do it. The reason you see multiple hatches instead fo a few large ones is that between them will be the bulkheads and other vertical supports, all laminated to the underside of the deck. In the end, I'll have more then what the plans call for and although it may ad a little weight, it will also contrinbute to stiffness to support my 250 belly jumping up and down when I slam a 6 pound smallie

(NOTE - I changed this paragraph recently so as to not mislead anyone) I will be using all Divinycell H80 per layout schedule. I'll use nida core only on non-structural flat pieces.

Strakes - I have got some advice in past on adding steering strakes instead of lifting strakes - did you mean to say lifting strakes? It looks like the way to go is with using those aluminum angle iron things from Home Depot for molds to get a nice triangle to epoxy to the bottom after fairing. So from all the feedback so far how does this sound:

No pad.
Reverse chines, 1" X 1" but adhered so that the angle is on the "inside" and the surface on the outside runs up flush with the sides of the boat (very sharp but effective yes?)
4 strakes; molded with structural resin as mentioned above but dimesionally basically a 1" X 1" ripped lengthwise, spaced equally between keel and chine, running all the way to the transom from about 8' forward, sharp and flush at the transom but a nice sharp entry angle at the front. Skeg - 1" X 1" from about 8' forward but ending 12" from the transom with a nice taper. Will this for sure provide "clean water" to the prop? Sharp or rounded edges?

Thanks everyone, only a couple weeks ot go until we start cutting and mixing!!

Cheers

Mark

What is the bonding strength of a lay up of wet resin and glass against "virgin" wood or foam or other wet glass/epoxy as opposed to a fresh lay up against say week old grinded/sanded layup ?

Mark,
the site owners did a number of tests on the bond strength. Try doing a search for it. But in short the wood will give out long before the fibreglass /epoxy will once cured. Any number of people have tried this, myself included, to see how strong the glass is verses wood. I have dropped on rocks with these boats (due to large wakes removing water over the unseen rocks) and the boat did not even notice it.
BF2

Mark while it is preferable to have a chemical bond of a less than 24hr wait time. There is only a marginal loss of strength in a mechanical bond when you have to wait and sand say a week later. You do what you can do and don't worry about the other. If I had to guess probably 99% of the boats built have at least some mechanical bonds somewhere in there builds.

Tom