Ok, I got the plans.
1) The plans say the seat tops are 1/2" ply - I thought the whole boat could be done with 3/8'?
2) The instructions say the panels must be "mirror images". If both sides of your plywood is good, then can't you just copy one from the other?
3) Why do you need a heavier transom if the boat is going to be towed?
4) Which sheet has the the pattern for a "bow mold". I don't see it.
5) It appears from the diagram that you build the fillets right over the cable ties on the inside - is this true?
6) I like the idea of the self aligning jig - anyone use it? I don't however understand how to set it up. I don't see on my plans where it says to cut notches. It's also not clear if the last form IS the transom itself.
I hope I'm not being dense, I've never done this before and just want to get it right first time thru
V12 - got plans, got questions
1. I got out my old plans and the note #2. on "dwg 110/1b says seat tops 3/8" ply.
2. You can copy one side to the other. You might have to flip the original over, depending on which side of the plywood you want out and which side in.
3. I think the heavier transom is if the boat were to fill with water or flip while you where towing it.
4. and 6. Can't help with the bow mold, I didn't use one. I didn't use a jig either. I just stichted the whole thing together and then measured diagonaly from stearn corners to bow and frame top edges to make sure I had it aligned.
5. I tack welded the inside seams between the cable ties and then cut the ties the next day after the tack welds dried. Make the welds small so that the fillet will go over the top of them. The diagram is for a technique where you use wire. Then you have deal with the chance of wire tearing up your sandpaper later
The last form is the transom.
Give me a call anytime if you want to ask me questions. It's nice to get many opinions from the web site though.
Paul Piercey
2. You can copy one side to the other. You might have to flip the original over, depending on which side of the plywood you want out and which side in.
3. I think the heavier transom is if the boat were to fill with water or flip while you where towing it.
4. and 6. Can't help with the bow mold, I didn't use one. I didn't use a jig either. I just stichted the whole thing together and then measured diagonaly from stearn corners to bow and frame top edges to make sure I had it aligned.
5. I tack welded the inside seams between the cable ties and then cut the ties the next day after the tack welds dried. Make the welds small so that the fillet will go over the top of them. The diagram is for a technique where you use wire. Then you have deal with the chance of wire tearing up your sandpaper later
The last form is the transom.
Give me a call anytime if you want to ask me questions. It's nice to get many opinions from the web site though.
Paul Piercey
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Reading the tutorials will answer some of your questions and a great deal more that you haven't even thought to ask. I've read the tutorials more than once and I learn something new everytime that I do.
Good luck and have fun!
http://www.bateau2.com/modules.php?name=Sections
Good luck and have fun!
http://www.bateau2.com/modules.php?name=Sections
Bow mold: you don't need one. As long as the distance between the last frame and the tip of the bow is exactly as shown (3'), the bow shaoe will be fine.
I'll check to see if the building notes are confusing.
Mirror image is not a copy. An exact copy of a side panel would put one butt block outside!
I'll check to see if the building notes are confusing.
Mirror image is not a copy. An exact copy of a side panel would put one butt block outside!
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
I used 3/6 for seats but added a 3/4 inx 2 in strip on edges
I used 3/8 but added a 3/4 in X 2 in strip of pine to stiffen the edge. I deviated from the plans some and added side panel seats - see web site for more info. Also I tack epoxied between the ties the did a full filet on the seams after removal.
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