Wayne are you around this area? I usually launch at Hooters on the Cotee. You might recognize the areas in the pics. The first one (the RedFish) is behind American Marine, there is a small opening in the mangroves about 9" wide then opens to an area about 50yds x 50yds that holds alot of fish when it is real cold. The other (the Snook) is in Gulf Harbors.FitzFisher wrote:i AGREE THAT THESE GUYS ARE ON TOP OF THEIR GAME. This is a very valuable site for all of us that feel the itch of boatbuilding (YukYuk). Looks like you will have a great boat for cruising the flats off the 'Cotee when you get done. And you won't have to wait till they dredge the channel with that draft! The original construction doesn't impress me much, but that's production I guess. I think you are on the right track with your buildup, and will have a bulletproof skiff! Jaques and Shine, Correct me if I am wrong, but if he puts a couple extra frames in there, it should really help with torsional twist that is common in the low sided skiffs like that, no? Party on, Wayne!
1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
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Re: Finally time to order with a little help
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Re: Finally time to order with a little help
Wayne are you around this area?
Actually It's Tom. That was a bad "Wayne's World" reference from Saturday Night Live. Actually I am in Riverview, but get up that way for work a lot. I know that area you are talking about by the biker bar that is on the water behind American, but have never fished it. That i one sweet redfish though. May have to drag my little flats boat up there some time and check it out. I have heard a lot of good stories about the snook fishing in the canals up there. I bet the snook took a real hit though from the cold, that far north. It'll be a long time before those guys bounce back.
You are what you is! And I is Done!
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Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
Finally some progress. Time to pull the outboard. The motor specs show a shipping weight of only about 296 lbs dry so I purchased a block and tackle off of Ebay for approximately $20 with shipping. Then I reinforced a section of trusses in my garage by spanning (2) 2x6s across 4 truss bays. I added a ½” x 10” Ibolt and was in business. A buddy of mine helped me by unbolting the motor while I held tension on the rope. We then pulled a cart under it and lowered back down. Although the transom construction was not ideal I was amazed at how much work it was to separate the wood from the outer transom skin, but after much chipping, grinding, cussing and cutting it was finally done. I still have some grinding to do but hey, its progress. I do have a question though. How do you handle the holes in the transom such as the motor mount holes and drain holes Do you bed the core than fill from the outside or should they be patched some other way first Here are some pics so far.
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Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
you do not do anything to them now, they get re-drilled an filled after the new transom is complete.How do you handle the holes in the transom such as the motor mount holes and drain holes
A little more demo/grinding and you will be ready to glue up your core. You will need to remove what remains of the liner all around the transom.
Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
arcticbreeze,
I am very much interested in your rebuild as I have the 1996 version of this boat. I also have wet foam, but the wood seems OK.
Do you plan to refoam it once you are finished? I am considering digging the wet foam out of mine and leaving it out until I need to replace the floor. But not sure if it is there for hull support as well as floatation.
Keep up the good work, and I look forward to seeing the steps to the finished result.
I am very much interested in your rebuild as I have the 1996 version of this boat. I also have wet foam, but the wood seems OK.
Do you plan to refoam it once you are finished? I am considering digging the wet foam out of mine and leaving it out until I need to replace the floor. But not sure if it is there for hull support as well as floatation.
Keep up the good work, and I look forward to seeing the steps to the finished result.
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Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
Jwftwo
I have not posted any pics or updates recently because now that it is getting warm I have gotten very busy (I own a small HVAC company). But I have made quite a bit of progress. Transom, stringers, frames, chase tubes and 75 percent of the floor are done. Have you cut open the floor? I would actually be surprised that the wood is still good after seeing the construction of mine. The boat was built with a ton of un-needed and slopped in glass. My floor was solid as a rock but I cut it out to get all the foam out. The stringers looked good until I poked a screwdriver in and found the wood inside was all but gone. To answer your question I am not putting the foam back in. Since I added frames that were not originally there the boat has 15 individually seal compartments under the deck so I feel completely safe. My opinion of foam is that it is not needed in an inland flats boat. It just adds weight to the boat and decreases floatation unless an emergency occurs to compromise the hull. With that said it is pretty unlikely I will compromise all 15 compartments at one time. I have no access hatches and the fuel tank is now above the sole below the casting deck. Even if the chase tubes break (unlikely) or the fillet where they penetrate the frames that still leave 5-10 compartments. Not to mention in my area I am more likely to be in 10” of water than over 10’ of water. I will try to get some pics and post them this weekend.
I have not posted any pics or updates recently because now that it is getting warm I have gotten very busy (I own a small HVAC company). But I have made quite a bit of progress. Transom, stringers, frames, chase tubes and 75 percent of the floor are done. Have you cut open the floor? I would actually be surprised that the wood is still good after seeing the construction of mine. The boat was built with a ton of un-needed and slopped in glass. My floor was solid as a rock but I cut it out to get all the foam out. The stringers looked good until I poked a screwdriver in and found the wood inside was all but gone. To answer your question I am not putting the foam back in. Since I added frames that were not originally there the boat has 15 individually seal compartments under the deck so I feel completely safe. My opinion of foam is that it is not needed in an inland flats boat. It just adds weight to the boat and decreases floatation unless an emergency occurs to compromise the hull. With that said it is pretty unlikely I will compromise all 15 compartments at one time. I have no access hatches and the fuel tank is now above the sole below the casting deck. Even if the chase tubes break (unlikely) or the fillet where they penetrate the frames that still leave 5-10 compartments. Not to mention in my area I am more likely to be in 10” of water than over 10’ of water. I will try to get some pics and post them this weekend.
Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
At this point I have cut and installed 2 8 inch round access hatches on the starboard side. I used these holes to remove 2/3 of the foam on that side. I am thinking I will do the same for the middle and port side as well.
I do have a leaky cable tube, that is where most of my water came in on the starboard side. With the foam gone, I can atleast drain it now.
I do have a leaky cable tube, that is where most of my water came in on the starboard side. With the foam gone, I can atleast drain it now.
Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
Sorry for hijacking the side, however, I have a 2001 that sits low in the water. I am assuming that I am having the same problem, Wet Foam. Without removing the deck is there anyway to dry out the foam? seems the scuppers let water in and is running down the cable way.
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Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
nope, sorry it just will never dry outHobiecat wrote:Sorry for hijacking the side, however, I have a 2001 that sits low in the water. I am assuming that I am having the same problem, Wet Foam. Without removing the deck is there anyway to dry out the foam? seems the scuppers let water in and is running down the cable way.
Re: 1999 Polar 1780 Flats Boat Rebuild
What's the chance you may still have the pictures from this repair? I know it's been 10 years now, but I may be falling into the same repair and would like access to some more knowledge if available
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