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OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:55 pm
by wadestep
Soo, I'm finally underway. It only took about 8 months from the time I bought the kit to the time I got started. Hopefully that is't an indication of my building speed. I did have other Bateau-related project to finish up first (notice all the blended filler)
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So, finally got back to the big project - OB19. Here's the arrival from storage - it's hard to imagine this is going to become something like what I'm imagining:
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As you can see, lifting all the ply in and out of the truck make's you thirsty!

So, then it was on to building the strongback - I used 2x6x18' boards, with 40" clear between. This is a little wider than what the plans call for, we shall see if that's any issue.
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On the strongback, I'm using 2x4s for verticals, and put plywood triangles in all 90 deg corners, to lock it in against deforming like a rhomboid. So far, so good.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 1:19 pm
by wadestep
Then it was time to pop out the tabs ont eh pre-cut ply
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about 1.5 hours with a jig-saw and all the parts were cut out! Nice.

On to laminating the stringers and transom.
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yes, there's a transom under all that weighty stuff.

afterwards, I wished I'd used the trick with the tape line on the floor to align my stringer properly. They ended up about 1/4" not straight. I'm not too concerned, but next time, I'll pay closer attention to perfectly straight. I did use an 8' lumber to align the joints, but it's still not perfect.

Also, After the stringers were fully cured and I was lifting them, I wasn't fully happy with the joint. it would flex a little when the stringer was bowing sideways. So, I took the hand-planer to the butt-butt joints of the stringer, planed off a little bit, and then put a piece of 4" woven cloth across the joint. Now I'm really happy with it, looks very strong.
You can see that on the 2nd stringer back in this picture:
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Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 1:41 pm
by wadestep
The next step was assembling the jig. I set the height of the baseline at a level I can just barely squeeze under to get inside the boat later. Also had to take into account the bow and keep it up off the floor. I'm worried that the hull is actually going to be too tall, and make fairing more difficult - the keel is about shoulder height. We shall see, but I'm pretty sure I'll need to get under the boat during the stitching and gluing phases.

Also had a couple of minor snafus - the jig aligned very well, but the stringer notches had to be cut bigger to accomodate the MDF temporary frames. Also, the clamping board notches were too narrow for the stringers to fit into them, I only noticed that after laminating all the transom together. To fix it I used a sawz-all and chisel to enlarge them.
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I also "stair-stepped" the ends of the stringers to fit into the notches in the clamping boards.

So that's about caught-up now - I was slow in starting this thread. Total elapsed time is about 5 weeks now. I promise to keep this up to date... unless , of course, the weather is too nice and I'm fishing, or I have 3-4 hours together to do some serious building, or... :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:24 pm
by Dougster
Looks real good to me. You're right about wanting to be able to crawl under her at times. Don't worry about the hull being a little too high for comfortale fairing. I had that issue and a couple of 2 by 6's layed across some cinder blocks or something gives a very usable little 6" scaffold to work from. You're rolling now.

Had to crawl under my build many a time Dougster

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:55 pm
by Cracker Larry
Good progress Wade 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:37 pm
by wadestep
I managed to misplace my MDF frame A. I mounted the permanent frame A thinking it was the only one, however, the bow mold expects a notch to be cut in the frame. I didn't want to cut the notch since it was not needed for the permanent structure. So, I ended up cutting the bow mold in half taking out the width of the frame A, and attatching it on either side with 1x1s.
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Then, the next day, I found the temporary bow mold. Maybe I should take a day to clean and arrange my garage... :help:

so now this thread is caught-up to present day. Yesterday I joined the bottom and sides of the hull, have the jig ready, and am ready to try this thing called "stitching"
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yes, the frames are all square - it's a parallelax error in a wide-angle lens. I wasn't inebriated while assembling the strongback :!:
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for some scale - it keeps growing everytime I look - it's starting to feel like it's size, now.
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Just wait until the hull planking is in place - It'll seem gigantic!!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:45 pm
by gstanfield
If you think it's big now just wait until you're halfway finshed sanding. At that point even a small boat seems big when you realize that all that time, sweat, and beer and you're still only half way :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:48 pm
by wadestep
for those friends of mine who are not familiar with the Bateau website- here's what I'm building:
http://www.bateau.com/studyplans/OB19_s ... ?prod=OB19

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 11:40 am
by wadestep
gstanfield - sounds like you speak from experience. :D I've been accumulating the time, sweat and beer so far, luckily no blood yet...
updates below:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 11:55 am
by wadestep
Update time -
Over the past week or so, I've been letting the epoxy fly!
in my spare time (yeah, right), I'm building a fishbox/truck box. The goal is to have an insulated large cooler that is completely waterproof, to double as dry storage in the bed of a truck and a kill box while fishing. Cheap is also a prime factor, so I got 3/8" ply from the box store, the pre-cut 4x8 sheets of 3/4" styrofoam, and 2 bottles of glue. i basically laminated a ply sheet, 2 styrofoam sheets, and another ply on top with the glue and a lot of bricks. From there, it was easy to measure and cut as if one piece of wood with a circular saw. after setting it in place here's what i had:
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I then tack-welded it and am in the middle of taping it. The only thing I would do differently so far is to have made all the corners a 45/45 cut, so it would have been wood-wood. instead, some of the corners turned out like this:
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after taping it should be strong enough, I hope. This project is somewhat of a primer for the boat, since the only other boat i've build is the cheap canoe.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 12:09 pm
by cape man
Wade,

Looking good man! Like the pic with the ply in the back of the truck with a nice glass of home brew. Remember...5 gallons of home brew per 3 gallons of epoxy. A lower ratio and you are just not having fun. A higher ratio and the skeg gets glued on catty whompus. :lol: :lol: :lol: Coffee and epoxy fixes everything....

Will be watching intently. That will be a nice boat for your fishing down there.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 12:23 pm
by wadestep
So here's a snag. At first I thought it wouldnt' be a problem, but now I'd like to know the consensus of people wiser than me in the ways of epoxy:
When joining the side panels, i was joining them in the driveway. well, maybe a pebble or something got under one unnoticed, and the panels are off just a little bit. Not much, and I don't mind fairing it out. But I'm worried about the 'glass tape. do you think it is strong enough as is, or do I need to fix? Remember the boat is already stitched and glued up, no glass cloth on yet.
This is along the side of the hull, not much plywood bending happening here:
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Index finger included for scale. I've got 2 options I know of
1) leave it alone, fair it out, put an extra biaxial tape under the cloth on the inside after some sanding.
2) hand-plane the glass off of the hull (I've already tack-welded the backside of the joint) and re-do the joint.

I'd rather do #1 if it's strong enough, but I sure don't want the joint popping apart when I hit a wave. On the other hand, biax tape with problem on outside, glass cloth on outside, biax tape on inside no problem, and glass cloth on inside (option 1 above) seems pretty strong to me. What do those with experience say?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 12:29 pm
by wadestep
5 gallons of home brew per 3 gallons of epoxy. A lower ratio and you are just not having fun. A higher ratio and the skeg gets glued on catty whompus.
That's great, I'm glad you've figured out the ratio for me :D . Otherwise, I'd be thinking "Now was that 4 beers, or 4 pumps of resin? I'm sure it was 4 of something!"

Maybe another rule is no dispensing epoxy after 3 homebrews. The math gets fuzzy. Even if it's only counting to 4. :help:

Of course, this rule could greatly limit my available boat building time...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 12:36 pm
by cape man
Wait for another opinion or two, but I think you'll be fine. I assume the OB19 calls for glass on the out side of the sides, and you'll probably want a light piece on the inside to prevent checking. Add to this all the strengtheniing that comes from the sole, bulkheads and gunwales, and that joint should never fail.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:24 pm
by TomW
I wouldn't worry about it. It looks like less than a 1/16" on 1/4" plywood. The tape is what holds the panels together and provides the strength to the joint. You'll also as Craig pointed out have 12oz biax all the way up the side on the outside and can put some 4oz on the inside if you want.

You do have a very little bit of epoxy starving where the white line is, but I doubt you could bet any epoxy into there at this late stage. You could try if you want.

Tom

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:30 pm
by wadestep
Alright guys, thanks for the info. I'll reinforce it from the inside after the flip, and call it good. I'll also re-wet it out well before glassing the outside.

my new favorite tool

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:13 pm
by wadestep
Seems to be that the most recent purchase is always my new favorite tool. For a while there it was the power hand planer. That was pretty cool. However, since last Mon, now my favorite is the 4.5" Harbor Freight grinder, with the 80 grit Norton sanding attatchment. At first, I was thinking "how's this going to be any better than a sanding wheel on a drill?"

Now, I'm a believer. I put a radius on the glued-up chines the other day. The grinder must have saved me 5-6 hours compared to a 1/4-sheet sander. probably 2-3 hours vs a belt sander. My New favorite tool, plus it is fun making such a dusty mess!

transucer

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:14 pm
by wadestep
Later this week I'm going to cut the hole for the shoot-through-hull transducer. Some things I've figured out with the SEARCH button(not quite as easy as the EASY button :!: )
1) Have to drill about a 4" hole now before glassing the outside, then plug the hole from the inside, then fill with epoxy, glass, silica, and maybe a little wood flour
2) have to put it somewhere accessable. I'm guessing that's going to be beneath the motorwell. Any tips on placement would be much appreciated. I understand not to put in centerline, due to the future skeg, and yes to put in the the hull under the motorwell for access, but any other suggestions?

should it be all the way back towards the transom, or 1-3' forward of that?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:22 pm
by tech_support
sorry I missed this............ You should grind out the air bubble.

It would actually be stronger to have only one layer with no air voids than several layers of glass over the air pocket :!:

If you just glass over it, the problem compounds itself. You can probably jut cut it with a utility blade, then put a strip of tape over top.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:58 pm
by wadestep
Bummer. Oh well, at least it's not too late and I have another use for my new favorite tool. Not sure if I should be happy or not... :| If the Shinester says, so shall you do. I know what I'll be doing this afternoon. :wink:

Thanks for the reply.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:03 pm
by tech_support
its a short piece to replace. With you new grinder is should not take long at all to fix. Grinders are wonderful tools :) When you burn through the 80 grit pad you have now, invest in a grinding pad and 24 grit disks

Re: transucer

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:47 pm
by TomW
wadestep wrote:Later this week I'm going to cut the hole for the shoot-through-hull transducer. Some things I've figured out with the SEARCH button(not quite as easy as the EASY button :!: )
1) Have to drill about a 4" hole now before glassing the outside, then plug the hole from the inside, then fill with epoxy, glass, silica, and maybe a little wood flour
2) have to put it somewhere accessable. I'm guessing that's going to be beneath the motorwell. Any tips on placement would be much appreciated. I understand not to put in centerline, due to the future skeg, and yes to put in the the hull under the motorwell for access, but any other suggestions?

should it be all the way back towards the transom, or 1-3' forward of that?
Even at plane you will be 3-5 ' forward of the transom. However you want easy access to it so that limits you to the access between the frame before the transom and the transom about 15" on most of these boats. So drill your hole and build a dam on the inside that allows the transducer to shoot straight down with in that 15". If you only slow troll and depend ony your tranducer for slow speed trolling you can put it forward on the hull. Lowrance actually allows you to place two transducers and read from either of them.

For the mix only fiberglass and epoxy, please. Silica and wood can deflect the sonar beams. I go 33% milled glass fibers to epoxy. It's a medium mix but should not have any bubbles, which are a killer, and plenty strong. Remember you have a layer of fiberglass over and under it. I also tint it blue or yellow so I can find it after the fiberglass layers are on it. For addition strength taper it toward the inside, so that the inside is smaller than the outside. That way as the water pushes up it forces the patch into a smaller area making it stronger. :wink:

Tom

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:25 am
by wadestep
well, it's been a while since posting, but I've made only a little progress:
I ground off the bad fiberglass splice and fixed it. It is nice and flush and has no air pockets now. I was glad to do it because it was a nagging uncertainty. It was worth doing for piece of mind if nothing else - I now sleep at night without thinking about "is that splice strong enough" :lol:

So the next step I took is drilling the holes for the transducer, raw water pickup, and drain plug.
I spent about 30 mins chopping up scrap fiberglass into small bits, and also cut out some cloth into the size of the holes. I covered the holes from the inside with ply covered with painter's plastic, and then filled the holes. I did glass cloth plug, epoxy and chopped glass mix, and another glass cloth plug. The glass cloth on top really helped it to smooth out, and the cut up fibers were enough to "thicken" the epoxy and keep it in place. This was kept just shy of flush with the hull, and I'll fair it in before applying the cloth to the hull.
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The transom drain plug was actually easier. I didn't have to worry about the type of filler I used, so wood flour + glass cloth worked well, and becasue of the size of it, I used Duct tape to hold the thickened epoxy in while it was curing. Also didn't have to worry about air bubbles. I was worried about too much exotherm causing bubbles and expansion in this large of a pour, but with slow hardner I had no problems.


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The next step here is to glass the seams and cloth wet-on-wet all at once. Wish me luck!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:37 am
by tech_support
nice job. Its sooooo much easier to make those plugs at this stage.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:54 am
by wadestep
Yeah, Shine, it it seems like doing this later during the build would just add to difficulty. Plus, I'm really confident in their strength given they'll have continuous layer of glass covering them. I'd bet these "holes" are stronger than any of the surrounding hull.
This is another moment of overthinking, but I layed down a small piece of light glass about 30-40% larger than the holes to distribute the stiffness so as to blend in the hard spot in the hull.
I spend at least as much time overthinking as I do thinking. :!:

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:15 am
by topwater
Wadestep how big of a hole did you drill for the transducer :?:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:46 pm
by wadestep
I faired in the transducer holes, and put down a light piece of cloth to even out the "stiffness". I really didn't need to do that, as I learned during the taping/glassing.
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Then Sat was the big event: taping and glassing the hull wet-on-wet.
Taping seams -
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Now taped and glassed:
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I also cut the 50" cloth in half, so 25x16 feet, and that finished the glassing up to the chines, with overlap.

I put 1 extra layer of tape from the bow to 2/3 of the way back along the keel - for abrasion resistance only. That is the only addition I've made to the lamination schedule. The prow has 3 layers of tape, plus 2 overlapping layers of glass cloth. It's thick and strong!!
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That's good, because I am planning on adding a tow eye for high-speed towing, with lots of reinforcement from the inside as well.

The next day, while still getting a chemical bond, I used epoxy filled with 2:1 woodflour:silica by weight to "fill the weave" or as Shine put it "spread butter on the waffle". Now I'll be able to sand it for the next layer of fairing without sorrying about sanding through the glass. I'm also going to switch to Marinepoxy next for the first fairning session, then back to Quick Fair for the final job. The next 2 weeks will ensure that this is completely cured.

Now I'll be out of town for 2 weeks, so no progress for a little while.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:54 pm
by wadestep
topwater wrote:Wadestep how big of a hole did you drill for the transducer :?:
I used a 4" hole saw for the transducer, and 2" for both the raw water pickup and the drain plug. I'm planning on getting a 1" ID thru-hull, so with the screws, etc... I figured I'd go a little bigger. Also got one of these in bronze:
http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... d=LM_714_1
which a filled 2" hole will allow the drainplug screws to bed into only epoxy.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:54 pm
by Cracker Larry
That looks great Wade :!: Wet on wet is the way to go. Is your garage air conditioned?
This is another moment of overthinking, but I layed down a small piece of light glass about 30-40% larger than the holes to distribute the stiffness so as to blend in the hard spot in the hull.
I did the same thing with mine. Having met your wife, the structural engineer, I'd bet you're getting some outside influence in that "thinking" department :lol:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:49 pm
by wegcagle
Looks great so far Wade. I agree wet on wet is the way to go. Even if you are sore and exhausted for the next few days :D 8)

Very clean work.

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:06 pm
by wadestep
Wet on wet is the way to go. Is your garage air conditioned?
Yes it is air conditioned. I bought 4'x8' sheets of styrofoam at Home Depot, and cut them to fit the back of my garage door since it faces west. I also had a whole bunch of insulation blown into the attic above the garage. Then I got one of those portable air conditioners and vented it through the pedestrian door. It may have cost about $600 or so do do all that, but being an air conditioned 84 degrees is SOOOOOO much better than a hot and humid and still 97. That $600 sped up my build time by 4-6 months, I'd bet.
I did the same thing with mine. Having met your wife, the structural engineer, I'd bet you're getting some outside influence in that "thinking" department
You're 100% correct. Having a structural engineer review your ideas/work is definatly a learning experience :!: FWIW, she's really impressed with the boat strength.
It's good to see I'm in good company with this overthinking thing. :wink:

Looks great so far Wade. I agree wet on wet is the way to go. Even if you are sore and exhausted for the next few days

Very clean work.

Will


Thanks for the words of encouragement. You're right, I'd be wet-on-wet saves at least 1-2 hours for every hour you spend. The back will only be sore for a couple more days...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:56 am
by Swamp Skiff
Looks great Wadestep. I'm in N Ft Myers, if you need some help flipping the hull or something else just let me know. Love to check out the built some time one way or another.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:00 pm
by cape man
Looking great!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:06 pm
by wadestep
Swamp Skiff wrote:Looks great Wadestep. I'm in N Ft Myers, if you need some help flipping the hull or something else just let me know. Love to check out the built some time one way or another.
Thanks for the offer- I'm sure I could use any/all help I can get during the flip! You are welcome to come by most weekends if I'm home. There's not a whole lot to see right now, however, as it is in the fairing process. It'll probably be more interesting in a couple months after the flip.
email = wadestep at yahoo dot com
cape man wrote:Looking great!
Thanks - I'm finally getting back on it this weekend after a 2 week hiatus. (vacationing)

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:16 pm
by Swamp Skiff
Sure, I can "supervise" with the best of them! LOL! Just let me when you get close. I'll drop you a line about coming for a visit soon. Thanks for the offer.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:26 pm
by wadestep
Ran into a snafu over the weekend. I finally got a really straight-edge that's 6' long and sized up the flattness of the running surface. For comparison a nickle is 0.077" thick (vs 1/8" is .125", 1/16" is .0625). So, I figured I won't be worried at all about 1/16" over 6 feet. Also will just do a little extra fairing with 1/8". However, I won't tolerate 2 nickles worth of warp.

Well, problem. There is a hook in the keel. I can fit 2 nickles under the straight edge for about 20" fore-aft, and 16" side-to-side. At the worst spot, 3 nickles fit. This is roughly centered 3 feet forward of the stern, at the keel. Even if I move the straight edge forward off the transom tape, I still have roughly the same problem. And the outside of the hull is fully glassed already. I don't know what really happened, the chines are perfect, and 1/2 way from the keel to the chine is perfect. The problem is centered at the keel.

So here's my expected solution: take some 12 oz cloth and cut 2 ovals, one about 4" bigger than the other. Laminate them on top of each other, centered in the dip, bigger one underneath. I'm hoping that will fill in most of the dip (hook). Then fill the rest with fairing compound, to no greater than 1 nickle's worth of hook, then call it good. What do you guys think?
:help:
Wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 2:57 pm
by Doc_Dyer
wade look at smokeymountains solution to his problem
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Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:47 pm
by wadestep
Perfect. That's exactally what I had in mind - I'm glad it's worked for someone else first! I've got 2 layers of 'glass curing right now, will re-check with the straight edge tonight to see where I stand.

Thanks for the picture
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 4:11 pm
by tech_support
that is fine. You could have faired it out and structurally it would have been fine, but filling it systematically with pieces of cloth will make fairing MUCH easier.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:23 pm
by wadestep
Fairing and sanding, fairing and sanding. Not much to show in the way of pictures right now, but I've been busy. I got my keel "hook" fixed to just over 1 nickle's width with 2 pieces of overlapped cloth. Right now, i'm about 1/4 way through sanding the second coat of fairing with fairing compound and Marinepoxy. LOTS of sanding going on.

I'm having a hard time finding locally 5" hook and loop 40 grit sandpaper. I can find 60 grit hook and loop, or 40 grit stick-on at Home Depot. However, the 60 grit is a lot slower, and the stick on has no holes, so it's a lot dustier. Any ideas about where to order 40 grit hook and loop?

Also - I'm using Norton's 3X paper. It's a lot better than the next option. It there any better paper out there or not?

thanks for the ideas...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:29 pm
by Cracker Larry
Wade, our Lowes carries Gator Grit hook and loop 5" in a 50 grit. It's good paper. I think it's about $18 for 50 disks.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:44 pm
by wadestep
That sounds like a good price - I'll check them out!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:35 pm
by wadestep
Well, I'm about 3 weeks into the fairing process. I've now completely faired and sanded 2 coats on the entire hull, and the 3rd coat is on and 1/4 of the way through sanding. I'm now getting to where I'm barely getting down to any of the tape seams, and the rest looks like it's going to be pretty fair as well. I think the next step is to use the longboard. I've put in a lot of time so far, and I don't think the longboard will show too much.

Question:
I'd like to use a coat of something (paint) as a guide coat for using the longboard. So, what should I use as a guide coat? After longboarding it, do I need to completely sand it off before priming and painting? What if I need more fairing, can the fairing epoxy go over the guide coat?

Thanks, Pictures to come soon, but not very exciting to watch right now... Just take my word, it's smoother than it was 3 weeks ago...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:08 pm
by Steven
Once you think you have it fair, apply several coats of primer. I highly recommend the System3 Yacht primer. Speckle paint over that with cheap fast drying spray paint. Then Longboard. The S3 primer is epoxy based, and you can add fairing compound over it. Wash, Rinse repeat for a yacht finish. Takes more patience than I have. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:04 pm
by wadestep
Ah HA! - that's how to longboard and then fair out the lows. Makes perfect sense. I'd even bet it's chemically compatible with Quickfair... I'll check first, but sounds like a plan. Now I need to order more supplies again.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:39 pm
by TomW
Yes you can put QF over the primer, no problemo :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:45 pm
by tech_support
Wade, I have a seacraft question for you. Made a new thread.

If you dont mind :) ...

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24643

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 3:06 pm
by wadestep
So I finally had a weekend in town without major plans. Unfortunatly, after beeing out to ftown the prior 2 weekends, I had a large"honey-do" list, (plus I wnet fishing on Sat.) So, the only thing I got accomplished is to post-cure my boat. For this, I took the dark blue Sunbrella tarp from my 23' boat and draped it over the OB19. Then I monitored the temps inside, after rolling it out into the sun. I got about 130 degrees F, but managed about 123-125 for at least 5-6 hours.

I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not, but I figured if it's going to print through, I'd much rather it do it now before the final fairing and high-build primer. What do you think, was it worth it?

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 11:59 am
by wadestep
No, I haven't forgotten about my boat, despite the lack of documentation. Work has been slow, with the holidays, etc... Plus Gag grouper are going to be closed soon, so a couple weekends were spent refilling the freezer. :D Anyway, I've been fairing, and fairing, and fairing. The boat took me about 3 coats of fairing to do. I have not been very efficient, I don't think. I've been laying on relatively thick layers of blended filler, and sanding about 60% off, then re-applying, then sanding, etc...

Lots of dust flying, the whole garage is a dusty purple. I've swept up pounds of dust. Not very efficient, yes, but with good results. Most of this was done with a RO sander with 40 grit, and the final touches between 2nd and 3rd coats with the longboard. I do hope the boat won't be 'wavy' when all glossed up with paint, but I'm pretty sure I'm done with that part of the build.

So this past weekend, I made some new progress: I've installed teh first of 2 layers of rubrail - 3/8" thick marine ply ripped to about 1.5" wide. I used the plan of pre-drilling, dry fitting, then coming back with GelMAgic. Worked like a champ, now it's setting up, I'll remove the screws, and repeat with the second layer.

Also, I cut two extra lengths of 8'long by 1.5" wide plywood, laminated two 3/8" thick together, rounded the top edge, and installed those as dual keels - about halfway between the stringers on either side, all the way to the transom. this will hopefully help with tracking both under power and under tow while not disturbing the water flow to the prop. They also don't increase the draft any due to the deadrise. Glued those down with GelMagic and screwed from the inside of the boat to hold them into place, then filletted and laminated 2 pieces of 4", 9oz woven tape over them, all wet-on-wet. They are curing also, will remove screws. I could have used 1 layer of the 12 oz biaxial tape, but the woven makes is easier to get to round the edges, and this small job was all edges. I also hope this means less fairing since I'm mostly done with that.
Pictures to follow soon.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:01 am
by wadestep
One thing I noticed with the rubrails is that they take a pretty good amount of elbow grease to get to ben to the shape of the sheer. At first, I thought I had to cut them to match the shape of the sheer. Then I came back here and did some research, seems noone else had to. So I went back out there and used some extra screws and elbow grease, and that worked fine! Tomorrow I'll go take all the screws out (maybe 25-30 per side) and look into dry-fitting the next layer.

does 2 thicknesses of 3/8" ply, 1.5" wide seem like enough for the rubrail? Or do I need 3. (I know the answer is in the building notes, but what have other people been sucessful with?)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:28 am
by topwater
I was told by Jacques that two layers of 3/8" was fine. Most boats use 3 layers of 1/4".
As long as you can get the 3/8" to make the bend you are good to go. I used 3/8 on my
nv23 and it worked out great.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 1:58 pm
by wadestep
perfect. They are making the bend -with some elbow grease!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 11:28 am
by Steven
I used 1 layer of 3/8 on the outside. After framing out I glued 1x1 to the inside edge for gluing surface for the side decks.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:58 pm
by TomW
The purpose of the rubrail is structural and provides a strong linear line to the top of the side panels. So either 2 3/8" as long as they can follow the curve of the side panel or 3 1/4" is good. Take your choice and pay your money! :lol:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:42 am
by wadestep
I just got the 2 layers of 3/8" all glued up. It took a bunch of screws, adn some clamping while dry-fitting. I was able to dry-fit myself - clamps to hold into place, then pre-drill and screws. Took about 15-20 screws per side, with at least half being up near the bow. Then took 2 people to glue and screw, then took the screws out, and it looks good!

I used GelMagic for the first layer of 3/8", but the next day I found it blushed quite a bit. I'm not used to that - neither the slow silvertip or slow marineepoxy have blushed at all so far.

I think I need to just fair in the rubrail and the dual skegs, then will be ready to prime and paint!

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:06 pm
by wadestep
Ugh - I went out to the garage yesterday to backout all the screws used to hold the 2nd layer of rubrail in place and... I broke the first 5 out of 6 attempts. They were so glued in place that the crappy screws broke before they freed from the grip of the 7-day old epoxy cure. After only getting one out, and lots of cursing and the like, followed by drilling out the 5 broken screws, I hit on the idea of using the heat gun to heat the head of the screw, hopefully that would transmit to the threaded area, and soften the epoxy some.
Well, 45-some screws, 2 people, and 1.5 hours later, thay all came out without breaking another one. I'm really glad heating them worked, because drilling them out after they broke was no fun, and leaves big holes to fill.

Lesson learned: don't let epoxy cure that long before removing the screws, or plan on heating them to remove. The first layer of rub rail was no problem, but the 2nd was just too much wood/epoxy. I maybe could have dipped the screws in something also, but didn't.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:40 pm
by Cracker Larry
Wade, rather than drywall screws I use coated deck screws. 3 reasons, first they are coated and the epoxy won't bond to the coating, so they come right out. 2nd, they are stronger just below the head and don't wring off as easily, and 3rd. they come with square drive heads, making them a lot simpler to install and remove, even when the epoxy is fully cured.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 2:54 pm
by wadestep
Thanks for the tip - I even have some of those. Should have used them...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:14 pm
by Dog Fish
.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:26 pm
by Cracker Larry
I've wrung off screw heads before :lol: It's a PITA! OK, one more tip. If you are going to re-use them, which I do, the coating will be stripped off after the first use or 2. Just spray them with some clear lacquer or polyurethane, or even a light coat of paint to keep them from sticking the next time you use them. Give the epoxy something besides metal to bond with.
but but but the production boats don't use ......
You are a funny man today :lol: Grady White sets new standards, don't you know :lol:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:15 pm
by Dog Fish
.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:01 am
by Steven
I use coarse threaded drywall screws. They don't break and I've reused them on two boats.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:28 pm
by wadestep
I'll check out what I used, but I'd also describe them as corse threaded drywall screws. Maybe they were thinner than what you used. But they definatly broke before coming out of 1/4" hull, and 2x (3/8") laminated rubrail. That's 1"total thickness, and they were essentially "potted" in wet epoxy, because the squeeze-out of epoxy was all the way down the threads. 8O

I guess that's why they broke. The same scenario but only 5/8" thick (one rubrail plus the hull thick) was no problem at all.

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:53 am
by wadestep
A little updating:
I have installed both the skegs and the rubrail. The skegs go all the way to the transom
Image

They are 1.5" tall, and so don't add to the draft
Image

Image

the rubrail is allso installed, and now I'm working on the spray rail. Yesterday I got some good SYP 2x4s, ripped them to 1.5'x1.5', and ripped that at a 45 deg angle to become the sprayrail. Well, there was no way I was going to get that to fit the curve of the bow. One of them split trying to make it bend enough. So, now I'd going to laminate 3 1/2" strips of plywood, each 1/4" less tall than the previous, to make up the sprayrail. Pictures to follow. First one is laminated on, now to fill the holes and do the second layer.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:04 am
by cape man
Haven't been keeping up with all the builds. Looking great man!!!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 11:24 am
by Steven
Looking good. Home Depot sells molding in long lengths that make great spray rails. Laminating that up will be quite a chore.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:23 pm
by wadestep
Time for an update: I've been moderatly busy over the past couple weeks working on the boat.
First, I laminated up 3 layers of 1/2" thick plywood, starting at about 1.5" tall, ending the the next two layers about 1/4" less tall. Took three laminations, and filling all the appropriate screw holes. Steven was right, somewhat of a chore.
Image

I then put 1 coat on the bottom, 2 coats on the sides of the S3 Yacht Primer (not pictured). It was looking pretty good at that point, but there was 2 problems : 1) the longboard left too deep scratches that I hadn't fully sanded out. 2) I wanted some graphite on the bottom. so- yesterday I applied graphite + epoxy to the bottom of the hull, and just neat epoxy to the sides:
Image

On the left you can also see the coolerbox I have been building, as a way to try out stuff before working on the boat:
Image

The coolerbox has graphite/epoxy on the bottom (took 3 coats to get it right!), the blue of the sides is to be the boat's hull color, and the white of the top is the hullbottom and also deck color. This is a real rough job - most all the fairing was done with a grinder! The fairing only needed to be good enough to clean fish guts off of.
Image

but then I went out there this AM, and notice that I had a whole bunch of pinholes that I'd never noticed before! so I marked them all up and applied fairing while it was still wet-on-wet:
Image
Don't worry about all the runs - they are a failed attempt to fill some of the pinholes with the incorrect mix of epoxy - to be sanded off.
Image

the only other problem is all the dust! Since this is not a final topcoat, I guess I don't care so much:
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:35 pm
by Cracker Larry
Looks good Wade. The shiny black graphite does show every speck of dust when you put a light on it. Once the bottom is on the bottom where it belongs, and in the water once or twice, you'll never notice it again 8) Nobody else will either.

Neat idea with the cooler box, and useful too.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:21 pm
by Aripeka Angler
That is some very fine work Wade :) I wouldn't sweat the bottom either, looks great to me. All of the builders on here tend to be their own biggest critics. BTW, very nice fairing work too...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:44 pm
by wadestep
Thanks for the kind words. Actually, I intend to use the graphite mix as an 'under armour'. I'm going to prime and then paint it. This boat will spend 95% of it's time sitting on a boat lift, and I'm concerned about the graphite/epoxy UV stability. Probably not worth the extra effort? but I'm going to paint the bottom. If the paint gets scratched down to the graphite layer, so be it. However, it will have a UV resistant layer on top of it until then, plus being really obvious if it gets scratched. If black shows through in the future, that's bad (meaning Ive got a pretty good scrape).

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:05 pm
by majorgator
I had a similar problem with the dust when I did my graphite-epoxy bottom...but ask me if I care now :wink: :wink: As CL said, its the bottom, and out of site.

Overall, she's looking real nice! You would think that making all that progress would make you sleep well at night, but instead you lay there staring at the ceiling, thinking about what your going to do next :help:

seth

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 4:08 pm
by wadestep
OK - between work, fishing, and hunting, the last 2 months have been very busy, not much time for the boat. However, I was able to shift gears this week and actually get something real done.
The status on the boat over the past 2 months has roughly been primed, gradually sanded, and now ready to paint (still upside down).
So on Thurs, I decited to build the cradle. I got to this point:
Image
and posted a question when I was luckily stopped and told to do it over:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 56&start=0

so, i did a total re-design on Sat, and with the help of Robin and my Dad, ended up with this:
Image
Image

Then Sat afternoon and today (sun), I thought the boat had looked the same for too long, so Cue the painting:
Image
Image


and, of course, what's a paint job without a bug? Damn lovebugs :!:
Image

so, as it sits now, I have 3 coats of primer, well sanded, and 3 coats of Perfection Arctic White on the bottom. That part is done. I also have 3 coats of sanded primer on the sides, and 2 quick-coats of Perfection Lauterdale Blue on the sides. I'm going to wait until after the inside is built to sand between coats of blue and apply the final coat. It looked awesome after the first coat, but the second coat didn't lay down as well (see reflection of epoxy bottles above).
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:50 pm
by gstanfield
Looks good to me, sure do like a blue boat :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:06 pm
by wegcagle
Nice work Wade, she looks great 8) I hear ya on the love bugs, but at least you don't have to contend with gnats. Those little S.O.Bs can ruin ANYTHING.

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:11 pm
by Steven
Looking good Wade. I like the blue.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 8:19 pm
by wadestep
thanks for the kind remarks. My Seacraft is a dark blue, but I though it might be too dark for even hull sides. i don't want it heating enough to soften the epoxy. So, i picked the lightest color blue I liked, and here's what it is. It's still growing on me, but it looks better on the boat than I thought.
It's actually 95% the same color of the 3M blue painter's tape, but somehow it looks pretty good so far on the boat.

Now I'm going to wait about 2 weeks for the flip, maybe up to 4 weeks because in 4 I have lots of family available and in town. If I can round up enough people in 2 weeks, the paint should be set enough (I hope). Not much to do now until then.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:25 pm
by Steven
I did the flip with 3 people. Me and two others. I rolled it out and jacked it up off the frame. I put a 2x4 across a couple of jack stands. Jacked up the rear and then set it down on the 2x4. Then I jacked up the front and set it down on a bar stool rung. Crawled under and dissasembled the framing. Rolled the strong back out from under it. The hull at this stage is surprisingly light. However, It really needs 4 people for good control. It was a little difficult setting it down easily onto the cradle.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 8:25 am
by topwater
Nice job on the paint :!: I like the blue 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:49 pm
by wadestep
Good info, Steven. I was wondering if 4 vs 6 people would be required. If it's only 4 people, I should be able to get that done almost 2 weeks sooner!

After thinking about the paint job yesterday, I realized I had been painting with roll-and-tip in 88 deg weather with only 27% humidity, and a sonstant breeze blowing past the boat. The coats that went on Sat were in 85 deg weather, but 80-100% humidity (it was acutally raining outside), and no wind at all. Saturday's paint laid down quite a bit nicer. Luckily, I'm planning on 1 more blue coat after I'm done with the insides, anyways.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:49 pm
by wadestep
FILPPED!
I got 4 people signed on for sure today, and ended up with 2 other neighbors helping as well, made it a piece of cake. I finished putting padding on the cradle bunks this AM, got people together at 12:00, and by 1:00 we were eating venison burgers and having fresh homebrew :!:
I was worried about this step, but with an excess of good help, and with a good cradle, the entire process was no problem. I even reinforced the cradle and added castor wheels pre-flip.
The boat does look much bigger now, right-side up. I'm now ready to start thinking about names - the boat is beginning to show it's personality now that it looks like a boat instead of a turtle's shell.

One more milestone passed.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:01 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Congratulations on the flip Wade 8) Your boat is looking nice...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:03 pm
by cape man
Whooo Hoooo!!!! BIG DAY! Pics please!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 10:00 pm
by Joe H
Way to go Wade, come on man, where's those pics?

Joe H

I know what you mean about a name now, I haven't settled on one for my P19, how about you?

Joe H

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 8:58 am
by wadestep
Nope, but we now have a brainstorming list going. None of the names on it so far are the right name, they're mostly just goofy, but it's a start. (Rummy Smurf, Aquatherapy, OB Skinny, Blue B!tch) :lol: I figure I've got until the topsides are painted to really figure it out.

It's raining right now, but I'll get some picts soon.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:28 am
by wegcagle
Great job Wade. Looks great. Congrats on the flip.

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 2:34 pm
by wadestep
here are some picts:
finalizing the cradle cushioning - me, my Dad, Liz:
Image

the flipping gang including neighbors- minus Robin and helper Liz
Image

the inside of the transom - haven't seen that for a while
Image

the boat right side up, on the new cradle, back home in the garage
Image

Today I spent a while grinding the dripps, and the top of the sheer flat. Next is to tape the seams. I'll likely tape the seams wet-on-wet, then sand them and do the glassing. Having all those layers of tape wet while crawling around to lay the fiberglass cloth sounds like asking for trouble.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 2:58 pm
by Cracker Larry
Wade, before you go any further you might want to tape some plastic or cardboard over those hull sides. They sure are pretty, and you've still got a lot of opportunities ahead to mess them up :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 3:11 pm
by Garnett
That's a big looking boat! Lovely colour too. Choosing a design to build doesn't get easier with all these gorgeous examples moving along so well!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:34 pm
by Steven
Looks Great. You'll want to use some diagonal strings to make sure there is no twist.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:41 pm
by wadestep
Yep, thanks for the reminders. I have not yet done diagonal strings, need to do that. As I understand it, then need to be 2 things: 1) exactally the same length 2) barely touching at their intersection. Anything else to know about using the strings?

Also - Larry, I've only done 2 of 3 coats of the blue on the outside. I'm still planning on sanding and finishing 1 more coat. I figured I'd do that one right-side up after building out the inside, so as to not worry so much about scratching it. Maybe i should still cover it with something so as not to really beat it up.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 11:24 am
by Matt Gent
Does the shear line have an inflection point a few feet aft of the bow? It appears to give the boat a little bit of SeaCraft or Jaws (the boat, not the shark) look.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 9:30 am
by wadestep
Matt Gent wrote:Does the shear line have an inflection point a few feet aft of the bow? It appears to give the boat a little bit of SeaCraft or Jaws (the boat, not the shark) look.
The shear as designed does not have an intentional inflection point near the bow. There's 2 things going on there: 1) the CNC kit has about 1/2" bump up there that was not yet ground down in that picture - just a function of the way the machine cut/stopped cutting. 2) I may have a case of 'droopy bow'. If so, it's very little. I did use the bow mold, so not sure why it happened. It's much less than it looks like, after I got done levelling off the extra overhanging fiberglass cloth and 1/2" of wood on Sunday. I'll have to take some more picts.

3rd possibility: my other boat "Narcosis" snuck in and produced an offspring: :lol:

my other boat:
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 11:16 am
by gstanfield
Your other boat is a very nice looking boat :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 8:41 pm
by wadestep
Just got a quote in to have a towing eye fabricated for high-speed towing my boat. It was only a mere $924.00. 8O 8O 8O So, I'm now looking into having one custom made locally. We'll see if the price was in the materials or just because the shop i contacted usually builds them for multi-millionaires. I can't have roughly a grand caught up in a single towing eye.
i do need to figure this out now because i'm at the stage where building in reinforcement would be easy.

Jaques recommended a way to reinforce a standard towing eye, but I think that no matter how much backing you put behind it, the side-to-side motion of towing a 19' boat at 25 knots would eventually enlarge the holes, so I'm looking for one that will angle down the sides, such as this:
Image

I'm expecting $200-$300, but not $1000. we'll see.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:33 pm
by gstanfield
Contact Larry's friend Raymond, I'm betting he can hook you up with top quality for a good price

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 10:04 pm
by gk108
Is the $1K part made from a casting or is it two flat bars bent and welded? The one in the picture looks welded to me.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:44 am
by wadestep
I'm positive it's welded, because it is made according to a form I'd send him. I've got a local friend who does decorative welding, will ask him first, then if not, I'll contact Larry's guy. Somebody must be able to do this for less...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:51 am
by Cracker Larry
I can't see it costing more than a couple of hundred. Raymond can build it, if you can't get it done locally.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 8:05 am
by cape man
Could save a bundle if you had it made from 1/2" Alluminum flat bar instead of stainless. The eye itself would be 1" and secured well with backing plates on the inside the alluminum should hold up plenty well. Would think any decent marine fab shop could make that for ~$200

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 9:34 am
by Matt Gent
I recently was looking at a flats boat that had been a tender for a yacht. It was set up with two towing eyes, one on each side, low near the chines, about 6' back from the bow. I imagine it was meant to be used with a bridle.

A setup like this I think would be easier to set up reinforcement for, and allow the use of a conventional (ie less expensive) eyelet.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:35 am
by wadestep
That's an interesting idea - I've never seen a setup like that before. I'm hopefully going to hear back from the guy who does local welding today, to see if this is a project he can do or not.
Craig - I'll ask Robin about aluminum. I'm worried about the hardness of it, would the eye hole get 'ovaled out' with the repetition of waves and pull? Robin the engineer I'm sure has books that can tell her those types of things. :lol:
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:53 pm
by cape man
I have to stop by and see my friends who own a fab shop. I'll ask them.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:16 am
by Matt Gent
Aluminum sounds like a bad idea to me. It would have to be quite a bit more thick through the eyelet to have the same strength, and you would need a bronze or SS insert for the loaded surface.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:29 am
by wadestep
cape man wrote:I have to stop by and see my friends who own a fab shop. I'll ask them.
Pertfect, thanks. I'll see you tomorrow at the meet.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 4:51 pm
by wadestep
I've been gone on a 7 day vacation. Thought I'd share some of the photos without cluttering up the 'anyone fishing' thread.
We went to Key West and spent the week on my Dad's boat.
Small sampling of lure selection:
Image
feeding the tarpon off the transom in key west harbor - they take fish right from your hand:
Image
Robin catching the largest blackfin tuna I've seen:
Image
early morning wahoo bite:
Image
Image
mutton snapper:
Image
true black grouper:
Image
this red grouper was caught on hook and line, but then wrapped itself around the shaft/strut, and we had to swim under the boat and spear it!:
Image
this was the result of a quick dive and spearing - hogfish and red grouper:
Image
We also dove the Vandenberg twice, and caught a mess of dolphin (mahi-mahi).
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz= ... 33&bih=672

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:03 pm
by Cracker Larry
Sweet :!:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 8:13 pm
by wej
Where's that "like" button :doh: :doh: :doh:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 8:37 pm
by colonialc19
Very cool wade 8) , thats what i call a vacation 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 10:36 pm
by majorgator
Very cool Wade! I imagine that Robin out-fished you :wink:

seth

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 10:46 pm
by peter-curacao
Cool nice catch, cant appreciate spear fishing to much doh jmpo :oops:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:10 pm
by wadestep
We totaled up our catch, by the species. Lumping together sharks as one, here's what we caught in 3-4 days. Much was released, depending on how big/legal/tasty it was. 22 species:
Remora
rock hind
red grouper
black grouper
margate
queen snapper
dog snapper
yellowtail snapper
mutton snapper
mangrove snapper
eel
wahoo
dolphin (mahi)
blackfin tuna
hogfish
King mackerel
bonita
grunt
barracuta
'shark' (3-6 varieties)
tarpon (jumped)
yelloweye snapper

It was a great trip - a couple days diving, couple trolling, overnight bottom fishing, and full day bottom fishing. Now that I've got some fishing out of my system, time to get back to getting the OB19 ready for next year!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:12 pm
by wadestep
Progress has been slow since the Boca Meet - due to vacation. However, finally got some seious work done this past week. I made a mold of the bow area and sent it off to a guy who is going to make me a towing eye instainless steel - 1/4" plate and 4 bolts each side, all welded together. It's pretty heavy is the only downside, but I have NO wories about the strength.

Then yesterday I got the last of the clean-up grinding/sanding done, and layed all the fiberglass tape for the keel, chines, and transom. Doing this by myself took a long time. In the future I will always try to laminate glass with a helper - more than 2x as fast. Grind, sand, fillet, mix, wet, lay, mix, wet, lay, etc... at least everything was pre-cut.

So, maybe this weekend I'll get the bow eye back and build in some backing, and soon get to laminate the glass cloth on the inside.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 4:28 pm
by rgmcgi
Hey Wade,

on 5/15 you posted some great pics of your boat. I'm curious about the three circles shown in the transom picture. Two are on the hull and one on the transom. Are all three filled with epoxy? Are the two on the hull for a depth/fish finder? Is the one on the transom a drain? Just trying to plan ahead as I work on my OB19...

Thanks!
Rich

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 9:08 am
by wadestep
rgmcgi wrote:Hey Wade,

on 5/15 you posted some great pics of your boat. I'm curious about the three circles shown in the transom picture. Two are on the hull and one on the transom. Are all three filled with epoxy? Are the two on the hull for a depth/fish finder? Is the one on the transom a drain? Just trying to plan ahead as I work on my OB19...

Thanks!
Rich
Image

The two in the bottom of the hull are 1) larger is for the depth finder transducer. I forget the size, but I sized it off some comments from Cracker LArry about his. I think it is a little larger then his. I can find the dimensions, but it is untested so far, so don't really know if it's right or not. It is important becasue the shoot-through-hull transducers won't shoot through wood. 2) the smaller one is for my through-hull for a baitwell. This way I don't have to worry about strength or rot. It is essentially like overdrilling, filling and re-drilling.
3) the one in the transom is for the drain plug. ditto to above.

They all were done before laying the glass on the outside of the hull, and are partially overlapped by the tape for teh keel, and entierly overlapped by the cloth on the bottom (and ditto on the inside in the near future). That way I figure they are as strong as possible for a hole in the hull. Filled the ones in the hull with milled glass fiber, colloidal silica, pre-cut woven fiberglass cloth. Also used a bunch of wood flour for teh one in the transom since no transducer issues. MAde a dam on one side with a pice of plywood covered inplastic, and filled them up to the thickness of the surrounding wood.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:18 pm
by wadestep
Got the tow eye in yesterday! It's stainless steel, out of 1/4" plate with 3/8 for the eye. 4 bolts on either side. It's really beefy. also 2 SS packing plates. Going to ask questions in the powerboat section about reinforcing the bow.
Image

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:26 am
by Knottybuoyz
Nice Bling Wade. It's nice to see some custom hardware. Gives the boat some of your own personality.

You should be able to tow the Titanic with that lil' piece of hardware. :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:50 am
by wadestep
Yeah, thanks! It gives you a certain sense of confidence hefting it. It will add a little weight up front, along iwth the weight of reinforcement. I won't worry about the strength of it, though.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:23 pm
by wadestep
edit - duplicate post for some reason

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:29 pm
by wadestep
Big day today. I taped the seams about a week ago on the inside. Then 4-5 days ago I grinded/sanded the taped seams to get ready. Today I layed the cloth on the inside of the boat. Pictures to come soon. It was the hardest 1-day job so far. My hat's off to those who have taped seams and layed cloth all at the same day. Just laying the cloth (plus adding 6 oz cloth to finish out the sides) took about 7 hours of time today, with a helper to mix the batches. Took about 2.5 - 3 gallons of epoxy for everything.

I also have layed 4 layers of 12 oz biax to the bow where the towing eye is going. i had some extra epoxy, and scrap cloth laying around at various points of the day, so it seemed dumb not to do. Later (tomorrow?) I will add the wood for backing, and lay fiberglass cloth over that as well.

I had fun today, but the back is very tired. Glassing the inside was significantly more difficult than the outside, because you had to be inside the boat while doing it. especially the 2nd side was tough, because I ended up kneeling on the epoxy, leaning over farther, painting my way into a corner, etc. I kept waiting for my bare knee to get permanantly attatched to the boat, but each time it came up - leaving some hair behind to personalize the boat.

Overall, though, it is very satisfying to see the hull all 'glassed.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:47 am
by wadestep
bow area

Image
close up of extra layers of 12 oz biax:
Image
towards the stern
Image
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:55 am
by Uncle D
Nice job. Looks very neat and clean. Good to have a little help. I get asked when's the boat going to be ready so we can go fishing. I tell them as soon as they get there butt over to help. So far only a couple of people are gonna go. 8) Don

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:04 pm
by wadestep
That sounds like a good plan. This helper I've been giving room and board to for 2 weeks (my niece). So I didn't feel too bad putting her to work, and she was willing. She was a great help, also - having someone mixing for you really increases productivity!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:06 am
by topwater
Nice work Wade :!:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:58 am
by wadestep
Yesterday AM I cut out the stringer tabs while the epoxy was still green. After studying the cut-out tabs, I noticed that not all the weave was filled. Now, I didn't do as good of a job of wetting out the glass over the notches, but it got me wondering: what if the rest of the fiberglass had some spots where the weave was not completely wet-out, even though the glass looked completely wet-out?
So I went to work thinking about that, the idea festering in my mind. I was imagining water sitting in the bilge, only a single thin layer of epoxy (that i wet-out the wood with before applying the biaxial cloth) seperating the wood of the hull from the water that could sit in there for weeks at a time...
So yesterday as soon as I got home, I mixed up wood-flour and silica and 'filled the weave' while it was still less than 24 hours old. I spread it as thin as possible, to just 1/2 way fill in the holes in the weave of the 12 oz biaxial cloth. I don't plan on doing anything else with this area, and I figure it's about as sealed as i can get it now. I used 2:1 silica:woodflour by volume, which is about 2:1 woodflour:silica by weight. The whole process added about 5 lbs or so (3/4 gal mixed epoxy).
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:33 am
by topwater
Wade thats pretty much how i fill the weave on the outside of the hull before putting on the first
coat of fairing .

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 9:40 am
by tech_support
wadestep wrote: I mixed up wood-flour and silica and 'filled the weave' while it was still less than 24 hours old. I spread it as thin as possible, to just 1/2 way fill in the holes in the weave of the 12 oz biaxial cloth. I don't plan on doing anything else with this area, and I figure it's about as sealed as i can get it now. I used 2:1 silica:woodflour by volume, which is about 2:1 woodflour:silica by weight. The whole process added about 5 lbs or so (3/4 gal mixed epoxy).
wade
I do this to "fair" the bilge and lockers, anywhere Im going to drop things. You can also add pigment at the same time

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:25 pm
by wadestep
To be perfectly honest, the idea came from Shine's FS17 tutorial/build. He wrote about doing it on the outside (that I remember). Sounded like a good idea on the inside also. Putting some tint in it would have been a good idea, too. I don't really need the whole hull tinted, though. And I'm not really sure where I do need it tinted yet.
If only I could see beyond the next step I could have figured that out, but sometimes even the next step takes some pondering for me, much less the final product!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:58 pm
by wadestep
So today I pre-cut 5 layers of 12-oz biax. the first (biggest) layer was 26" tall by 14" wide. the subsequent layers were roughly 1-2" smaller. I layered them up on top of the (too small) 5 layers of 12-ox biax that i already installed. I did grind down at least 1 layer of theat previous biax and put a little woodflour paste on it right before today's lamination to ensure a good bonding surface. Jaques recommended building up the layers to 1/2". I have no idea if I hit that exactally, but it's a lot of glass.

So now I have 4 layers of smaller biax, followed by 5 layers of 2foot x 1foot biax. Then I'm going to use 3/4" ply backing, followed by stainless steel backing plates, then a washer, then a nut. That's a damn lot of fiberglass and stuff, and if the sun goes supernova, and the whole world blows up into outerspace, I'm confident that my towing eye reinforcement will still be there. :lol:

I think the next step is to lay in the stringers and frames, and tack-weld in the stringers, remove the frames, and permanently put the stringers in place with wood glue and 12-oz tape, correct?
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:23 pm
by TomD
Wade your build looks like it is going great and have been trolling this thread for ideas - had a look at your pre-drilled and filled hole for transducer and thru-hull - just wondering how/why you chose that location? I am wondering where to put my thru-hull fitting - and being on the fairing the bottom of the hull stage and thinking about water flow over the hull etc was wondering how much I need to be concerned about interference from the thru-hull to the prop?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:48 am
by tech_support
wadestep wrote: I think the next step is to lay in the stringers and frames, and tack-weld in the stringers, remove the frames, and permanently put the stringers in place with wood glue and 12-oz tape, correct?
wade
thats right, you should not need to put the floor frames, unless you need then to line up the stringers.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:18 pm
by wadestep
TomD wrote: had a look at your pre-drilled and filled hole for transducer and thru-hull - just wondering how/why you chose that location? I am wondering where to put my thru-hull fitting - and being on the fairing the bottom of the hull stage and thinking about water flow over the hull etc was wondering how much I need to be concerned about interference from the thru-hull to the prop?
I had a couple of considerations about where to put the thru-hull for the raw water. Obviously the one for the depth finder does not affect water flow.
1) I wanted it to be accessed from the center hatch near the motorwell of the finished boat. I may make at least one of the outside hatches into a livewell, not yet sure.
2) wanted it to interfere with the water to the prop as little as possible
3) have to have enough clearance around the stringers to install an unknown-sized fitting in the future (hadn't bought the thru-hull at the time)
4) couldn't put it between the stringers because I knew I wanted to try the twin keel idea - that's where those are.
5) I measured the distance from the centerline to the thru-hull on my 23' Seacraft. I don't have any water flow problems at similar speeds the OB19 will go. The only difference is that one is not a clamshell - just an opening.

So, That's what I was thinking about. I'm going to use a clamshell scoop-type fitting so I don't have to leave the pump running all the time. This really was a toss-up. In other boats, I'm always concerned to turn off the livewell pump when I'm running in case I forget to turn it back on after slowing down and all the fish die (experience talking here). If you don't have a scoop, you just turn the pump on in the beginning of the day, and happily ignore it the whole rest of the day.
If the clamshell scoop causes any waterflow problems to the prop, I'll just exchange it for a plain thru-hull, and no more worries.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:41 pm
by wadestep
some updates - got the stringers tacked in witht eh frames in to square them up. then got the stringers 1/2 way installed. That is really a job!
Image
Also got the bow eye reinforcement installed - 10-11 layers of 12 oz biax from 2'x2.5' and layered smaller. Then 2 layers of ply all glued up.
Image
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:49 pm
by wej
Looking really good Wade!!!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:04 am
by wegcagle
Looks great Wade. I REALLY underestimated how tough this part of the build would be. :? I thought the fiberglassing would go just as smooth as the outside. Little did I know that the inside takes WAY more time/skill to do it right. :D

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:14 am
by Cracker Larry
That is really a job!
Yes it is! Looks great Wade, yall are doing a real nice job.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:59 am
by wadestep
Thanks all! The stringers didn't perfectly tough the hull, which is why I had to have the blue tape there as a dam. But I've filled it in solid, and it's going to be strong. No hard spots for me.
I hope to get the other side done, and maybe some frames put in, by this weekend. Then it's on to figuring out the fuel tank for real!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:05 pm
by wadestep
Update - pictures to follow tomorrow or the next day.
frames all installed, spot-welded, then filleted and taped in. 12 oz biax all around. The center of frame B I cut out. i am going to install it depending on the exact fit of the fuel tank. also going to install a secont frame B center part behind the stringer.

Fuel tank (custom aluminum) picked up last Thurs. I've got the attatchment of it figured out, I'll explain in the pictures. Basically, I cut 2x6s to 2x2s, cut to fit the V of the boat. I'll epoxy those to the hull, lay a 1/2"piece of plywood deck over that, and set the fuel tank on that with 1/2" star-board to allow for drainage/ventilation under the tank. The shelf/deck for the tank will also be taped to the stringers. Also going to use coal-tar epoxy. I'll explain in the pictures. 5200 and screws are going to hold the tank down, basically like he shows here:
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm
plus screws on built-in tabs and coal-tar epoxy.

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:21 pm
by wadestep
Alright, actually have some pictures of progress to post:
These are the "frames" that will support the shelf on which the gas tank will sit. The 'frames' are cut out of 2x6s, and roughly shaped to match the V in the hull.
Image
This is the spot where the tank will sit - I have sanded the spots teh 'frames' will contact
Image
This is the shelf the gas tank will sit on. The holes are for ventilation. I don't want condensation getting trapped anywhere. The tank will be under the console, so I am going to ventilate it well. All areas between the 'frames' are thus ventilated. the tank will have 1/2 starboard suspending it off the shelf, thus all compartments created between the frames, hull, and shelf will have air flow. There is also limber holes in all the 'frames'. No water should ever get in here, but that doesn't mean it won't somehow.
Image
The tank also has brackets to hold it down. It will be screwed down through the shelf and into the frames underneath. My engineer wife says that eight 1.25 inch #14 screws will have the proper pull out value to hold down 4x the weight of the full tank (400 lbs), even without the help of the 5200 adhesive I'm going to use later.
Image
And here's an overview of teh situation, as it now sits, drying:
Image
The shelf will later get taped to the stringers on each side with 12 oz biax, to load the weight of the tank through the stringers and not completely on the hull itself.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:36 pm
by chopperman
Your tank will be well supported with that framing. Good weight distribution. I can imagine that it must have taken a little work to get the shape just right to fit the hull. :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:55 pm
by Cracker Larry
First class job, Wade 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 5:25 pm
by Royce
Nice tutorial on how to do it Wade. :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:17 pm
by wadestep
Well, havent' posted much,but over the past month I've gotten some decent progress made:
1) cut and applied epoxy to the cleats. I ripped these on a table saw out of 2x4 and 2x6 stock - basically what was left over from my strongback was more than sufficient.
2) applied etching solution and coal-tar epoxy to the fuel tank - completely coating it with 2 THICK coats. That stuff is nasty!
3) glued about 80% or the cleats in place. Tedious work. it's going to take about 4 rounds of gluing cleats before I am done. The ones against the sides were by far the hardest, since I had to be inventive to get the clamping arrangement to work properly. (thanks to Steven for most of the ideas). I did a mix of springing against the side and using plywood to hold them in place. See pictures.
4) chase tubes are done.
5) everything that's going to be under the sole (except for the tops of the cleats after I planed them) has been sealed with at least 2-3 thick coats of epoxy.

Still don't have the gas tank in permanant place, but I thought I'd wait at elast until the decks are dry-fit first.
Image
Image
Image
Image

slowly but surely!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 3:13 pm
by Steven
Ah the memories. :) Looking great. Getting close to foaming and putting down the sole. Such a good feeling to get that done.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 8:25 pm
by wej
Looks really great!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:56 am
by wadestep
Thanks. I've been making a slow job of all the cleats. I sure am glad to have learned about using PVC for clamps, that saved a lot of money and worked just fine. I am really looking forward to getting the deck down - something level to stand on again, and the boat will really look like I'm making progress.

I'm planning on using6 oz glass on most exposed wood. IE motorwell sides, sheer decks, sole, etc... would there be any benefit in 6 oz on the underside of the sole? I'm going to put 10 oz on the top for abrasion resistance, but would the 6 oz underneath prevent checking/water damage 15 years from now?

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:08 pm
by Steven
I covered everything exposed with 6oz. cloth. No need to do the underside of the sole if it will be foamed and sealed. Just seal it well with epoxy.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:30 am
by wadestep
Over the past weekend I've finished gluingin the cleats (finally!) I then levelled/cleaned up the stringers and cleats with a straight edge. The grinder and power planer were a BIG help here. Grind off all the epoxy globs, then go to town with the power plager set on 1/16", roughly 2 spiwped on all the stringers (3 on the outside stringers, as they were a little high in realtion with the interior stringers).

The side cleats were installed against the side of the hull for the most part, so I then grinded the top surface of them roughly flat with the deck. Most important up closer to the bow where the hull sides had more flair.
Then cut the holes in the deck for the chase tubes and dry-fit the decks (at least, I did the aft 1/2 of teh decks. The forward half didn't have anything concrete yet to line up against). Then, fun with foam!
Image
Image
I have foamed in all the side compartments and the small compartments where teh chase tubes exit into the comsole. I have not use any of the excess cut-offs for fill, and I've used 2.5 two-gallon kits of foam. Still have under the aft decks to do, and anywhere else I might want to do just for fun. I'm planning on using my cut-offs to fill, and so should be able to complete the foaming with 1.5 more kits of foam.

I've got a question posted under the powerboats section about what tool to use to cut the excess foam with.

I've really been putting a lot of time into teh boat over the past 2 weeks, but at least I've got something to show for it!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:36 pm
by Steven
Something I wished I'd done is wrap the chases in glass where they protrude through the sole. I would have glassed from the foam up to the top of the tube. That way, you are epoxying the sole to the fiberglass and not to the PVC, which does not make a great bond. Light cloth would work fine. Since I didn't do this I glued a second block of Ply down around the chases, so where they go through the sole, it's 1" thick. I may stll paint around them with a polyurethane coating ( Durabak) to make a waterproof seal.

Here's and example of what I did.

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:50 pm
by wadestep
Interesting idea there, Steven. I was planning on doing it exatally how you did, but I'll mull the 'improved idea' around as I'm levelling out the foam.
thanks,
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 3:09 pm
by Aripeka Angler
You are in the home stretch now. Very nice looking work Wade :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 1:19 pm
by cape man
Like Richard said...on the home stretch now. That baby ain't sinking now!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:17 am
by wadestep
Been making some gradual progress - the rear compartments have the sole in and glassed, the livewell is about 50% constructed, and the rear two compartments are roughly faired in. Next step right now is to set the sole in. here's where I'm at:
Image

Image

wade

PS - I've also got a question posted about the next step here:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27738

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:28 pm
by Steven
Looking good. Construction is the most fun part. I'm just about ready to go at mine with a case of Krylon. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:53 pm
by wadestep
Krylon! now that's the ticket :lol: . I remember what it felt like to think I had a beautiful coat of paint on the outside of the hull, then to come back and watch a fly do the backstroke in it. :x I don't think I'll be able to stop at 'workboat' on the inside, but I'm hoping not to be too anal about it. Not sure if I'll be able to do that.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:01 pm
by wadestep
So, I'm trying an alternate method of glueing down the sole. My plan is to
1) dry-fit it in place (previous pictures)
2) use the power planer on teh top surfaces where the tape will lay to make fairing easier
3) put plastic/packing tape under it so it won't stick and then
4) tack-weld (using some scraps of biax as well). This gets it really level withthe weights, and lets the next step be easy:
Image
Image
5) tape the top seams while it's still in place
Image
6) tab down 2x4s to support the joints(plastic so they don't stick to the tape, if it's still wet!
Image
7) take out of boat, flip, tape and water-proof
8 ) while that's still chemically active, set back into boat, gluing it down.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:05 pm
by wadestep
I'm crossing my fingers that step 8 will happen on Sun - need about 6 hours of no rain, and a couple helpers.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:00 am
by topwater
Looks good Wade , should work real nice. Be real easy filpping the sole.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:41 pm
by wadestep
So I've been busy over teh past 2 weeks. I got the butt joints of the sole taped on both sides, a 3rd layer of waterproofing epoxy on the underside, the stringers/cleats/foam all levelled out and cleaned up. I have a picture or two I'll look for here, but it basically looks like the picture where all the foam is in the compartments, only slightly cleaned up.

Then, while everything on the underside of the sole was still in the 24-hour window (actually only about 6 hours later with fast epoxy), we made up big beads of thickened epoxy with woodflour, put that on the cleats/stringers (which had been wet-out with neat epoxy), and then laid the sole down. I was amazed at how much epoxy this took - I'd guess 1.5 gallons or so, maybe around 3 bags of woodflour. Really could have even used more, maybe. But I'm happy with it. After laying the sole in place, we weighted it down with lots of pavers. Nice and evenly, the most difficult problem was getting in and out of the boat to put the pavers down. we rigged up a 2x6 to scoot across and drop down into the fuel tank location. From the parts that I could see (only around the edges), it looks like a got a reasonable amount of squeeze-out.
Pictures to come of the pavers in place.
to be continued...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:01 am
by wadestep
I let the sole sit with the pavers for 48 hours. Then removed the pavers. There was a very small amount of air escaping in and out in 2 places - to be expected since the cleats along the hull sides had a couple small gaps. Also - since this is a pre-cut kit, the port bow region required about a 1/2" piece of ply to be cut, waterproofed, and then set down in the small gap between the hull side and the sole. Not a big deal. In fact, I was very impressed with how well the sole fit - It is the biggest assurance that the boat actually came out to be the correct size (not warped) since construction began!

I then laid down some runny fillet all along the deck to hull seam to 1/2 way fill in the small gap and let that sit 24 hours. No more air leaking out.

The next day, we put in a regular fillet, did a little sanding, and then taped the seams all around the sides. While that was still wet, I rolled 10 OZ cloth on the entire deck and about 3-4" up and overlapping the hull sides. I also doubled up the 12-oz tape for the bow 5 feet where the extra filler piece of plywood was used. The cloth was just the right width so that I have 10 inches left over to put on the side decks. Laminating that woven cloth is worse IMHO than laminating the 12-oz biaxial cloth - very hard to get it to lay flat. However, no selvage threads to deal with, and very little filling the weave needed. This prep-fillet-tape-cloth process took Robin and me about 5 hours.

The next day, I came back and filled/faired the deck with blended filler with a little extra woodflour and silica mixed in for hardness. That's where I stand now.
Image
Next steps: sanding down the fairing compound, building the console, and then maybe the side decks!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:29 am
by Cracker Larry
That's a major milestone there, Wade 8) Looks great. The woven cloth is a be-otch to me, too, I'll stick with biax. If you are going to use Kiwi-Grip on the deck, it won't need much fairing. I would go ahead and fair the sides up to the gunwale now, before you install the decks. It's hard to get to afterwards, you about have to lay in the boat and work overhead.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:57 am
by wadestep
Good idea. I certainly got a lot of epoxy on me kneeling and walking in the stuff while doing the sole! Just about had to take a bath in white vinegar afterwards. I also left my shoes outside and even though they were laying on their sides they were stuck to the driveway the next morning. :lol:

I couldn't fair up the sides while I was doing it because I hadn't sanded that far up yet. Sounds like a real benefit to fair it now.

One question: since the fairing compound is not as strong as the glass or woodflour underneath it, if I fair first should I later sand through the fairing before attatching things- ie console, gunnel-decks, etc... Or is that not necessary? Not a big deal, but just want to be sure.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:03 am
by SmokyMountain
if I fair first should I later sand through the fairing before attatching things- ie console, gunnel-decks, etc...
Being the paranoid person that I am, I would sand through the fairing compound before attaching something. The console will be taking a lot of force when people are hanging on it etc... sole looks great!! 8)

Andrew

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:48 am
by tech_support
glassing to fairing is less than ideal :)

For the parts your talking about, I would grind a "path" for the tabbing so its bonding to the glass underneath. Maybe use a belt sander and you could have the tape tabbing sitting more of less flush with you surface - less fairing

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:03 am
by wadestep
Gotcha - will do, and ending up with less fairing sounds like a winner to me!

wade
SmokyMountain wrote:I would sand through the fairing compound before attaching something
shine wrote:glassing to fairing is less than ideal

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:33 pm
by wadestep
Work has got me really busy down here over the past 2 months (and the next 2 as well). All the snowbirds are in town clogging up our roads and filling up the offices of the healthcare providers. Worked 57 hours last week, which only left about 5 hours for working on the boat. Ugh. However, I've been fairing the insides as advised, and they may not be pretty, but they're getting more fair.
Image
Image

Fairing is getting easier now. I'm probably 90% done with just one 'fill the weave' coat of blended filler, and then 1 round of quickfair. I'm much better at this fairing thing than I was on the outside of the hull. I used to think that the fairing compound needed to provide a surface coating to all the underlying stuff, with a certain thickness. In thinking that, I ended up applying (and then sanding off) way too much fairing compound. Expensive and probably added 5 lbs to the boat. Now I'm getting the idea that less is better, fairing compound does not need to fully coat everything. By the time this boat is done, I might even be good at it.

So far, I've been amazed at how fast the inside fairing has been as compared to the outside. If I only had more time to work on it...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:47 pm
by wadestep
Question for those who may know:
I've got a plan for a console designed. The console is about 46" high and 30-ish" wide. It will have an integral front seat and will sit over the top of a fuel tank. Thus, there can not be much internal bracing, basically it sits over a big hole. It will have a cross-brace shelf above the fuel tank. I have 2 extra sheets of 1/4" ply and 2 sheets of 3/8" ply, all good meranti or okume.
The question is will 3/8" ply be strong enough for the console structure at 46" high? otherwise I will need to laminate it, the console itself will take most of 2 sheets of ply.
Thanks for any thoughts.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:14 pm
by Steven
3\8 Wii be fine. Double the thickness where the steering wheel mounts.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:19 pm
by Cracker Larry
Yes, I used 3/8 for mine and it's about the same size. Used cleats on all the inside corner joints, taped on the outside and glued and taped to the sole. It's solid as a rock.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:19 pm
by wadestep
sounds good. I was hoping that 3/8" would do the job. Cleats on the inside also seems a lot easier than trying to stick your head in there and tape the inside of the seams, I'll just see how hard it is to tape when the time comes and use cleats if needed.
thanks
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:29 pm
by peter-curacao
wadestep wrote:sounds good. I was hoping that 3/8" would do the job. Cleats on the inside also seems a lot easier than trying to stick your head in there and tape the inside of the seams, I'll just see how hard it is to tape when the time comes and use cleats if needed.
thanks
wade
Wade just wanted to let you know I taped mine and it wasn't all that difficult as long you can move it around, of course cleats are also good, just wanted to give you some head up. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:08 am
by Steven
I used cleats around the top panels taped the vertical corners.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:58 am
by TomD
I used cleats ripped diagonally from 2x2's so that they took up less space but added lots of strength. Worked great for me.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:19 am
by wadestep
Looks like a great list of options. I'll see as it gets built, but maybe the cleats around the top and taped seams on the sides. When I get this thing put together I'll post up some plans. I've got it all drawn in CAD with nesting and everything. If I post it in metric, could be scaled up/down.
Hopefully it could help someone else.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:37 am
by wadestep
Got the console mocked-up yesterday. I've got it put together with cheap 3/8" ply so as to check all the dimensions. things we learned
1) Robin's Autocad work was great. No computer errors, everything (would have) fit perfect the first time.
2) don't get in a rush while measuring/cutting. We made an error while trying to beat the rain - just a measuring error.
3) I'm really glad we mocked it up. Really confident now that I like the shape and it looks easy to put together. We will have to be very careful to get everything square.

The tank is completely sealed off by a shelf from any electrical stuff. Also I'm going to make the wide part of the console (not the forward seat) 1" narrower on each side. That should look better, give better clearance to the side decks, and I can still fit the chase tubes inside it.
Image
Image
some of the parts are just sitting in place, so I can acess teh internals for measuring/fitting - that's why the big ugly gap.
Image
Image

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 8:52 pm
by TomD
Looks good - what are the dimensions?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:45 am
by wadestep
I'll post up the info soon - I'm really happy with the mock-up, but need to change a few dimensions (1" narrower both sides) and get Robin to convert it to a JPG. I can't seem to upload a pdf. I did pass this by the management here first.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:17 pm
by Steven
Looks good. I can't tell from the picture. Is there any taper to the sides? A small amount of taper bottom to top, and back to front makes a hugh difference in appearance with no more work. I'd also taper the seat sides back to the corners of the console. It won't take up usable space, but would look better. No taper will look very boxy. Of course, you know what they say about opinions. :)

I made up quite a few mockups out of carboard before settling on a shape.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:46 pm
by wadestep
I get what you are saying about the boxy look. It is not nearly as boxy looking as the picture from the front looks, but there is no taper. I think by itself it might look better with a narrower top, like yours. However, I am going to install a T-Top on the boat as soon after launching it as my budget allows. Therefore, I will have 4 vertical legs essentially at the 4 corners of the console. That is one reason I didn't taper the seat into the console, because I'm going to use that small space (2" or so) to inset the legs of the T-top - less of a toe hazard.
I wonder if it wouldn't look funny to have a significant taper to the console and then have vertical T-top legs. OTOH, nobody says that the legs must be vertical, either. I'm going to look around for some example pictures both here and production boats.

thanks,
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:39 pm
by Steven
I would prefer a slight taper in the T-Top legs as well. It's stronger that way, and it's just more pleasing to my eye. It looks like Larrys T-Top legs taper but his console doesnt'. Looks good.


Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:53 pm
by wadestep
Yeah, I like the looks of Larry's boat. The console I've got so far is somewhat taller, but not more than 6" or so. I don't think it's wider , at least it looks proportionate to Larrys on the the wider OB19.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:42 pm
by peter-curacao
Hope I'm not a complete jerk for saying but in opposite to the rest I don't like it to much, I like the "front" a lot but the "back" with the seat I don't, all those corners seems dangerous and not aesthetically to me, hope I don't piss anyone of with this comment, just sharing my thoughts :oops:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:52 pm
by Cracker Larry
My T-top was a gimme by Cape Man :D and after the console was already built. Raymond made the top fit, but it would have looked better if the console had a little taper, both top to bottom and front to back. Mine is a little boxy looking, the next one I build will taper.

Wade, I'm kinda with Peter :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:04 pm
by wadestep
Been really busy at work, but I've been considering. Still am considering.
peter-curacao wrote: hope I don't piss anyone of with this comment, just sharing my thoughts
Thank you for your thoughts. I realize your comments on consoles have been a problem for others, but not with me. I'm glad to get as many opinions as possible. Don't worry, i won't get all pissy - keep 'em coming.

I'm gong to investigate the 'taper' options, then. For better or worse, the seat in the bow of the console is required - it is covering the fuel tank. The seat height, length and width are currently at the minimum to allow a fuel fill clearance and also completely cover the fuel tank opening. It could be bigger, but not smaller.
Here's one example of a console I modeled it off of - it is a smaller version of :
Image
Image
Image
The reason I made the bow seat narrower is to increase walking clearance as teh bow of the boat starts narrowing in.
I think the console I have mocked up would end up very much like this:
Image
Here's some tapered consoles for contrast.
tapered:
Image
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:08 pm
by wadestep
So, my current plan is to 1) roll the boat out of the garage to get a real view of the current mock-up. The garage makes it so tight it's hard to get a feel for the console. The camera angles all look stupid because I'm taking pictures too close.
2) take the mock-up and set it up on the Seacraft. That way i can get a feel for how the proposed console compares to the seacraft console. I'm happy with that one for 8 years now.
Always any opinions or suggestions welcome, but I don't promise to follow them :wink:
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:40 am
by TomD
Following this thread carefully because I am at the same stage as you on my C19 - though I am building a front seat that gets narrower toward the bow of the boat so that I have more room to walk around it.

I thought about doing it like yours so that the T-top uprights were out of the way and then I kind of abandoned that thought as I imagined the hassle screwing the baseplates into the deck in a corner like that and also I dont like the idea of the uprights being by your head when you sit on the front seat.

At the end of the day I think that both tapered or straight look fine and remember that those hard edges on your mock up and the fact that it is not painted make it stand out and look even more boxy than it would when finished.

That was my other reason for using 2x2's ripped diagonally in the corners was that I could put a really big rounded edge on them without loosing strength.

On my OD my console I put a slight taper, just for looks but it means that you also loose a little useable storage space - I use the front compartment for my fuel tanks - and it is harder to get them in and out than if the sides were vertical.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:56 pm
by peter-curacao
That one I can understand, the one you "mocked" up is a... well you are gonna hurt your toes or toenails! almost sure of it, just my 2 cents 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:34 am
by wadestep
Yeah, Peter, I agree. I probably should have said it at the beginning, but rounding the corners is definatly in the plan. Thanks to TomD I now have a good plan on how to make that happen - take 2x2s, rip on a diaganal, and then grind/sand the corners into a larger radius than would be possible with just the plywood. I think that would satisfy the toes and much improve the looks. That's roughly what I had in mind, but I don't feel like putting that kind of work into the mock-up.

I sat around and contemplated the console and, with a little imagination of it being covered by cushions, T-top, grab rails, electronics and wheel, AND rounded corners, I think it's going to be sucessful. Again, the front seat's size is a requirement - it's covering the fuel tank. I will be able to get the wider cosole part about 2" narrower, which should help. I'll post the diagrams up soon.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:17 pm
by wadestep
here's what I've got built. I can narrow the console itself in 2" from these plans.
Image

Image

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:22 pm
by Cracker Larry
I've been helping Raymond build a leaning post for a big fishing boat, we haven't finished it yet but I wanted to show you the corner radius pieces we used. The owner wanted round corners, so we accommodated :D They also wanted a tapered toe kick all around.

Image

The laminated radius corner pieces are off-the-shelf from a supplier that Richard hooked me up with. It is available in many different sizes and thicknesses, from a couple of inches to a couple of feet, and comes in 8' lengths. This is from a 6" radius X 3/4" piece.

I bought an extra 8' stick of it for future projects. I'd give it to you if you were close. Very cool stuff and very reasonable, about $50 a length. Check out the products here http://www.aitwood.com/StoreFront.Asp?W ... degrees%29

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:59 pm
by Steven
I would go with the recessed toe kick on the rear of the console. I didn't and ended up cutting an opening, and I believe Larry has a couple cut outs as well. I put my seat at the absolute minimum distance from the console as I could fit it to conserve cockpit space. I could stand and sit comfortably, but if I wanted to lean my butt on the edge of the seat with my legs extended, it was a tight fit. I'm 6'3" for reference.


Larry,

Those cylinders are cool. Could have used some for the corners of my LiveWell. Do they use exterior glue?

Steven

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:53 pm
by Steven
wadestep wrote:Yeah, Peter, I agree. I probably should have said it at the beginning, but rounding the corners is definatly in the plan. Thanks to TomD I now have a good plan on how to make that happen - take 2x2s, rip on a diaganal, and then grind/sand the corners into a larger radius than would be possible with just the plywood. I think that would satisfy the toes and much improve the looks. That's roughly what I had in mind, but I don't feel like putting that kind of work into the mock-up.

I would defintely consider the toe recess on the rear. I positioned my seat as close as possible for comfortable standing and sitting. However, leaning agaist the seat edge with my legs straight was tight. I'm 6'3 for reference. I ended up cutting out the face to make it more comfortable. Moving the seat back would have put be too far back to comfortably reach the wheel while seated. If I do another CC, I will have the entire rear face slanted back about 6" from the sole to the bottom edge of the face where the steering mounts. I actually considered that mod, but I already had the sole in and my wire chases were designed to come up right in the rear corner. I would have had to move the console back 6", which would have prevented me from putting the live well under the seat.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:20 pm
by TomD
Wade are you using top mount controls? I have those awkward side mount controls that come standard with the engine, so I am going to recess the front "steering wheel" bit of the console so that the controls can sit flush with the rest of the console...

What are you doing about seating/leaning post?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:33 pm
by wadestep
Steven wrote:If I do another CC, I will have the entire rear face slanted back about 6" from the sole to the bottom edge of the face where the steering mounts
That sounds like a viable idea. However, My console is already as large as I want it to be. That fuel tank means I couldn't just recess much - the recess would hit the tank. I'd have to make the entire console bigger, and I really don't want to do that. I may figure out how to get a 2-3" recess where the helmsman's toes would be.
TomD wrote:Wade are you using top mount controls? I have those awkward side mount controls that come standard with the engine, so I am going to recess the front "steering wheel" bit of the console so that the controls can sit flush with the rest of the console...

What are you doing about seating/leaning post?
I'm going to use top mount controls (binnacle). It will mean extra $ probably, but I really am particular about not wanting side mount.
Also - I'm going to likely buy an aluminum leaning post - such as one from Birdsall Marine. That's a real expense. I'm going to get a 33-34" wide one. I haven't purchased it, have been checking local classifieds to see if I can get lucky over the next 3-4 months.

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:08 pm
by Steven
I made my seat 33" wide. I have 20" between the seat and side deck. Plenty of room to room around comfortably. The side deck is 8" wide. It only overhangs the side 3/8", so most of it's in the boat.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:01 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Those cylinders are cool. Could have used some for the corners of my LiveWell. Do they use exterior glue?
Yes, water resistant phenolic glue. I wouldn't build a speed boat out of the stuff but it will work fine for a console or live well if you glass and epoxy all surfaces.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:05 am
by wadestep
Sounds like a good way to add some function and 'style points' to the console. I've been out of town, but I'm kicking around ordering some of the stuff. Just looking into the sizes - need to go compare the diameters to some PVC.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:11 pm
by wadestep
question about sheer clamps/side decks asked and answered here:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28439
Just in case anyone is following along at some point in the future. I'm certainly following along with many other builds.

I'm also going to lay 12 oz fiberglass tape underneath, and then glass the top with 6 oz to strengthen the side decks. This is in addition to adding a couple extra 'knees' or very small, triangular frames underneath the sheer decks. This was advised to me by another builder of the OB19, who has several years under his belt now.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:22 am
by Steven
If you feel you need the extra strength, is there a reason you want to glass underneath instead of just adding a sheer clamp? I'm just imaging what a pain that upside down glassing is going to be.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:00 pm
by wadestep
I the side decks are only 3/8" and they are 8-9" wide. There's only 3 vertical frames (I think) that are supporting them from flexing. When I went on Smilin' Matt's boat, he specifically told me there are 2 areas he would have increased the strength as compared to his build: 1) forward casting deck (needs some significant framing underneath it) 2) side decks. I'm concerned that even with the coaming, if I step off the dock down onto the edge of the side decks, 3/8" ply with almost 4 feet between supports will flex.
So, my plan is to keep using the 3/8" ply since that's what came with the pre-cut kit. I plan to run a 12oz biax tape strip on the underside of the side decks (put in place before installing the side decks). This will stiffen it up, kinda like you used bigger ply. Then I'm going to add a couple of small mini-frames spaced between the existing frames.

So, after that, the only 'weak' spot would be up-lift of the side deck from the hull. (to be continued - gotta go work now)
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:12 pm
by Steven
I used 3/8" for the deck. I have two larger braces and then some smaller subframes. The frames are glassed in with the 9oz. tape that came with the kit. I used 3/4"x1" trim on the inner coaming and 1/4" for the facing. It made an incredibly strong box beam. There is zero flex with my 230# weight. I do not have a span as long as 4" The longest between the sub frames is maybe 2.5'. I would have no problem jumping down to the side decks from a dock much higher than I'd dare jump from. :)

I don't think that the biax is going to solve the flex problem if you have 4' spans. There's too much leverage there. I would highly recommend the smaller frames even if you use the biax.

Image

Here's a better view of the subframes:

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:43 pm
by Lucky_Louis
On the OB17, the frames were spaced at 3' (90% sure)

Image

By the time I added the coaming, it created an "I" beam effect which is super stiff with no additional support. My son and I (both 200lb+) have stood on the side decks with no flex at all.

I did cheat and reduce the width of my side deck by around 1.5" to get more room passing the console.

Image

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:35 pm
by wadestep
Steven - those sub-frames are exactally what I'd been thinking about. Looks like you've got 4 additional sub-frames. I was only planning on 3, but hadn't really measured it out yet. Actually, I just looked over the plans, and there's 2 large spans between stations - 3'10" and 4'11". Your spacing looks strong, for sure, 4 additional sounds better.

Do you think that the lower cleat you have there behind the coaming is necessary? (the cleat in the picture before the coaming was put on, that would lay along the back-lower side of the coaming face.) I don't see what it is doing - there's nothing to attach there?
Image

Lucky Louis -
Thanks for the feedback on the strength of the side decks. The spans in the OB19 are longer, with a wider deck, but you've definatly given me an idea of what does work.

Thanks
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:23 pm
by Steven
I glued 1x2 vertical cleats on both sides of the frames. The cleats were as long as the coaming width. Then I glued the top and bottom battens to the face of those cleats. I then glued filler blocks between the battens at the frames. In the picture below, you can see the cleats glued to both sides of the frames and the battens attached. If you look at the far side you can see the cleats with the plywood sandwiched between before the filler blocks are added. The filler blocks give a flush gluing surface at the frames between the battens. I hope this makes sense. It's easy to do but not so easy to describe. You could notch the battens into the frames so they are flush, then you wouldn't need the filler blocks, but that seemed like more work. As to the bottom batten being needed, I felt it was. I use 1/4 for the coaming. I expect it to get a lot of leaning and didn't want it to flex. It also made fitting the coaming much easier. It defined the bottom edge. All I had to do was clamp on the coaming materal and then scribe lines along the battens. I cut the bottom slightly wider and used a roundover bit to trim it flush after gluing it on . Hand sanded the 4 inches on the ends where the router wouldn't fit.


Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 1:48 pm
by wadestep
I got to spend quite a while on the boat over the past weekend (Robin was out of town, so I didn't have any honey-do list). I measured and cut all the console parts. Then I elevated them on the driveway on 2x4s, re-nested them tightly together, and layed 6 oz cloth over them. This way, I could wet out the cloth and cut the cloth around the pieces. With 6 oz cloth, I had great results without wetting the pieces out first, the epoxy just penetrates right through the cloth. It seemed smart to do this step before assembling the console - a lot easier to laminate them flat.
Image
Image

It looks hard to keep the wrinkles out of the first picture, bus since the pices were small, it was actually very easy.

Then I spent yesterday assembling the console. right now it is just screwed together. I ripped 2x2s on a 45 deg angle for all the interior joints that I am going to use cleats for. This will allow me to give all the vertical corners a nice radius. It's temporarily screwed together right now, and next I'm going to epoxy the cleats in place. Should be easy, since the screw holes are already aligned - I just re-use teh screws to keep the cleats in place while the epoxy glue dries. Then it will be time to grind/sand a nice edge on everything. In fact, I'm going to see if I can get a big enough roundover bit for the router to work. Not sure how large those bits come, but it would bea easy and uniform...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 1:58 pm
by wadestep
I also got some of the frames measured and cut down to size for the side decks. I'm really pusing to make progress because I have a motor in mind: I have the opportunity to get a great deal on a new 115 HP Yamaha 4-stroke. However, it would be here in 2.5-3 months from now. 8O
I don't know if I'll be ready for it by then, and the opportunity to save about $1400 on it would pass me by.
It's go time!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 2:00 pm
by Steven
You can get large enough round over bits. If you go over 1/2", which is what I used, start small and work up to the larger radius. It will make for a safer, better quality job. I have some pics of the console and seat/livewell with paint on in my build thread if you want an idea of what 1/2" looks like finishte.d

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:59 pm
by wadestep
I went back and looked at yours. I Iike it, although around the front of the seat in fron tof the console, I might want more so it's not a knee hazard.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:47 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Wade, I have a 3/4 inch carbide round over bit that I used on my stake out stick handles. I'll be happy to send it to you if you want to try it on your console.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:25 pm
by wadestep
Richard - Thank you very much for your offer. I've sent you an email.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:40 pm
by TRC886
wadestep wrote: Image
Those parts are looking great :!:
I also got some of the frames measured and cut down to size for the side decks. I'm really pusing to make progress because I have a motor in mind: I have the opportunity to get a great deal on a new 115 HP Yamaha 4-stroke. However, it would be here in 2.5-3 months from now.
I don't know if I'll be ready for it by then, and the opportunity to save about $1400 on it would pass me by.
You can store it for less than $1400 :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:01 am
by topwater
Wade i have a 1 1/2 round over you can use if you want, but i would only use it in a router table.
If you want it let me know.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:41 am
by wadestep
Topwater -
Thanks very much. I don't currently have a router table, although this could be a good excuse. Truth be told, I have a router since Christmas and really don't know how to use it yet. I'm hoping to go without buying a table. OTOH, what better excuse could I have?
'Honey, I really need a router table to build this great console you designed.' :lol:

Thanks for the offer, I'll see where a 3/4" get me and keep you in mind in case I need a bigger radius.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:20 pm
by wadestep
So I've really been at work on the boat over the past 2 weekends. Here's the update:
1) Built the console (screwed together with temporary cleats)
2) ripped a 2x2" cleat on diaganol, for a triangular-shaped cross-section. Then glued these in all the vertical corners of the console
3) more console cleats installed, and the shelf temporarily screwed in place, to keep the console square - now I can lift in in and out of the boat to work on it.
4) played around with the router - I had a 3/8" roundover bit, and now a 3/4" bit from Richard. I have a number of 2x6s that now have varying roundovers on them - no problem, love the router!
5) cut down and permanently installed the cockpit frames that came with the plans, then added about 4-5 more each side (not full height). Had to shape and re-shape these some to get the angles to match just right.
6) glued cleats to tops of frames, spliced the top decks together, 3 coats of epoxy underneath, and installed on the cleats. Nice and fair, looks good.
7) cut and glued cleats to the frames where the coaming goes.
8 ) Cut, then spliced together the coaming sections. Here I only have 1/4" plywood sheets left, so I'm going to laminate 2 together. Unfortunatly, I'm going to have to install the first layer, then laminate the second in place, since 1/2" won't take the bend near the bow. Back side of the coaming has 3 coats epoxy.
9) filled about 40 screw-holes, only 300 more to go :lol:
10) BOUGHT A MOTOR! Yamaha 115 new, 25" shaft, 4 stroke. I bought it at an auction, to be delivered in 1-2 months.
11) figured out the motorwell sole, cut, overdrilled, and filled a drain-hole, and cut the sole to size.
12) bunch of sanding on all the tape seams for the cockpit frames, and to finalize the shapes of the coaming cleats.
Image
Image

I'd guess that for me and Robin, the above was about 55 hours of work. (and another 5-10 of thinking)
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:24 pm
by Cracker Larry
Dang, yall been busy!
10) BOUGHT A MOTOR! Yamaha 115 new, 25" shaft, 4 stroke.
Good choice 8) 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:30 pm
by wadestep
so here's a question I didn't want to get lost in the above post:

I HATE CLEATS!!!! If I didn't have to rip any more cleats, cut to length, sand, put 3 coats of epoxy, shave off where the epoxy dribbled, re-sand, spring or clamp, and wait to dry I'd be a really happy man :!:

So - I now have the idea of using fiberglass tape on the joint betseen the side decks and the coaming. The top joint is a given for this, but I want to do the underside part of the joint as well. I have enough (barely) room to work in there laying on my back and working overhead. This would prevent me from having to install about 20 individual cleats on the edge of the side decks to glue the coaming against. Instead, I'd just screw/clamp the coaming to the frame cleats, and then tape the top and bottom of the joint between coaming and side deck.
Any reason not to do this? It really doesn't sound that hard to run a fillet up there, pre-wet some tape, and lay it in?

thanks,
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:36 pm
by Cracker Larry
I'd use cleats :wink: I hate gluing and glassing upside down.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 1:32 pm
by Steven
I'd notch in long battens at the top of the frames and along where the bottom of the coaming will end. Will make for a more fair line along the joint. I didn't notch mine in. I glued them on and then filled in between them at the frames with filler blocks. But looks like your deck width is set so you'd have to notch. Or cleats if you don't want to go that route. Glassing that upside down would be a huge pain in the pain place.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:44 pm
by wadestep
So, this weekend I got the coaming installed. i didn't have any 3/8" ply left, only 1/4". That didn't seem strong enough, so I ended up getting one layer to fit just right around the compound curve while dry-fitting it, then cutting another identicle piece flat on the driveway, using the first for a template. I then installed the first 1/4" coaming into place onto the frames/sidedecks and let it dry overnight. The next day, I simply laminated the second 1/4" layer onto the first. That was actually a lot of work, and took quite a bit of epoxy glue and 74 drywall screws to get a nice even wood lamination. So the upshot is that I get 1/2" coaming, laminated from 2x1/4" ply.
Next boat I build will just have the correct 3/8" ply, one layer. The lamination was tricky.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:53 pm
by wadestep
Last weekend (8 days ago) I went turkey hunting. No, luck, Tom the turkey is still safe and sound. However, Yesterday and the day before really got a lot done. We've filled all the holes for the coaming - LOTS of holes. Then filled the holes in the console, taped the inside of the console seams, and routed the outside edges. The large roundover bit that Ariepka Angler lent me is just the right radius- gives nice, rounded corners on all the vertical edges. The horizontal edges I'm using a 3/8" roundover instead.
Then I used the drilling template (also from Ariepka Angler) to drill out, fill, and re-drill the transom holes. I now have them filled with epoxy/woodflour/milled fiberglass and re-drilled with the template again. Really easy overall. The hard part was figuring out the height:
1) transom is 24", which is 23 1/8" vertically.
2) motor is 25" vertically (hopefully)
3)Jack plate (with 2" of setback) at its lowest setting automatically raises the motor 3", and can lift 3" above that.

Sooo: height = 23 1/8+3+0(lowest setting) = 26 1/8. What I really want is 25" somewhere in the mid-range of the 3" adjustment of the jack plate. Therefore, I drilled the holes 2" lower on the transom. If everything goes according to plan, the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the hull 7/8" up into the 3" vertical adjustment of the jack plate. That will leave me the ability to lift the motor to where the cavitation plate is up to 2 1/8" above the hull.

After all that addition and subtraction, I crossed my fingers and drilled 4 BIG holes in the transom.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:58 pm
by wadestep
some update photos:
aligning the jig and drilling the holes:
Image
Image
more to come soon
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 1:35 pm
by wadestep
Doing some work on the cockpit drains/scuppers. I've discovered that 1 1/4" drain plugs fit perfectly into 1" class 200 PVC. Doesn't fit into 1" schedule 40, or 1.5" schedule 40, but perfectly into 1" class 200 PVC. I have no idea why 1.25" plugs fit insude 1" dia PVC, but there it is.
So, I've drilled the holes through the motorwell bulkhead, and additional divider, and through the transom. It's drilled about 1/4" bigger through the motorwell, and 1/2" bigger through the transom, so as to be able to fully fill around the pipe to protect the plywood.
The plan is to scuff up the PVC with 60-grit, then coat it with woven cloth (to make the fiberglass shell watertight), then 1-2 layers of 12-ox biax (for strength). I'll then bed it in woodflour and tab it in with fiberglass wherever possible. This will allow me to put the scuppers all the way down on deck level, where I'v already drilled the holes.

Any problems with this plan?
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:10 pm
by Cracker Larry
No, that should be just fine. I recently rebuilt the rear deck on a little fishing skiff and used 4" pvc for a water passage through a floatation compartment. I split it in half, but otherwise did it just like you describe. I sanded it good, cleaned it, glued and filleted and covered with 12 ounce biax. It ain't going anywhere.

Image


Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:20 pm
by wadestep
Great - good to hear those big holes in the transom are the right thing to do! Especially since I've already drilled them! BTW - that transom you were working on looks like swiss cheese :lol: .
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 4:01 pm
by Cracker Larry
Yeah, it did :lol: It's got a new core now though and the 8 necessary holes filled and re-drilled :D The owner was taking care of the painting.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 9:02 pm
by wadestep
Just some updates:
port side locker with divider.
Image
livewell center-left (in white) bilge center-right:
Image
view forward:
Image
transom view:
Image

Question:
What is the best lamination schedule for the cocpit drain PVC? Planning on 1x biax tape, 2x 12 oz biax cloth. However, is that overkill? They'll never have any significant impact from a weighted object, and will be tabbed in at least every 12".
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 10:27 pm
by Steven
Here is how I'd do it, and how I did it on the GV11 where I used some pvc for drains through the seats. I wrapped the pvc with a couple wraps of 6oz cloth and let it set firm. Then I glued it in. This way, the cloth makes a fiberglass tube which will bond perfectly to the holes. With PVC, theres a chance the bond can weaken over time. This way, there's no way water can intrude along the PVC. The PVC becomes a bit of a lost mold this way.

Thanks for the tip on the PVC size for 1-1/4" plugs. I have a drain from the cockpit into the bilge, but couldn't drill it through perfectly straight. The drill body interfered causing it to go at a down angle. I was going to put a brass tube there, but the angle made it impossible for the insert tool to pull the flanges flat. I left it for now deciding that I may fill it and drill it to a size for a plug. Now I think I'll glue in a piece of PVC in the size you listed. :) I'll probably never plug that hole, but would like the option.


Edit: I really like the compartment behind the motorwell. I assume that's for the battery. Really wish I'd have thought of this.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri May 11, 2012 8:07 am
by wadestep
OK - that sounds good. Just like you said, my plan is to use the PVC as a mold, and a good way to have the size for the plug, but not really count on it for much else.
PS - i couldn't find that PVC at either home depot or Lowes. Ace Hardware carries it. It is thinner-walled than schedule 40, says for cold water only.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:06 am
by wadestep
Last weekend I got some backing plates installed for the stern cleats - I'm going to install the cleats on the forward side of the motorwell bulkhead, and use hawse pipes through the side decks.
Image
got the anchor locker all glassed in - just going to do a little fairing and some pigmented epoxy and it's done. The backing plates you see there are for the towing eye (hard to see the backing plates).
Image
This is the outside of the anchor locker, overdrilled and filled for the towing eye bolts :
Image
Side decks are about 90% faired - quick fair certainly cuts down on the amount of time it takes. I finally feel like I've got this fairing thing licked. It's too bad I was such a bumbling neophyte when fairing the hull - the outcome on the hull is good (not perfect), but I'm sure I took about 5x as long and 5x as much epoxy as needed. The side decks were only two passes with quickfair and I'm happy with them:
Image
The PVC wrapped in 1x woven tape, and 1x 12 oz biax is working well. I ended up suspending in , wrapping it with cling wrap to keep the tape wrapped tightly, and then cutting off the last 4" on either side withere the lamination wasn't perfect. It's now installed, cut to sixe, sanded, and then I added small strips of fiberglass to further tie it into the bulkheads and prevent any future cracking.
Image
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:11 am
by topwater
Wade did you have any trouble getting the cling wrap off the part :?:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:54 pm
by wadestep
Some. I took it off about 4-5 hours after setting it up (using slow epoxy in 80 deg weather). The idea was to get it off while the the epoxy was still 'green', but after the fiberglass would have any tendancy to unwrap. I think it would have been very difficult the next morning, but at the time I did it, it only took about 10 minutes. It ripped a little, but wasn't too bad, and it all came off.
I used it instead of heavier plastic because it clings to itself enough that I could provide some compression as I wrapped it around, so as to better hold everything in place.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:16 am
by topwater
The reason i asked is i used cling wrap to fix a hockey stick and didnt take it off until the next day.
What a mess , had to sand it off. Thanks for the info next time take it off when its green. The boat
is looking great :!:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 9:39 am
by Steven
Looking good Wade. On my GV11, I put some 6oz cloth right over the ends of the PVC, then cut out the hole after it cured. all you see is a painted hole. Wasn't sure the paint would adhere well to the end of the PVC and not flake off.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:30 pm
by wadestep
sounds like a good idea. will do.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:00 pm
by wadestep
Well, After attending the builder's meet and talkeing at length with Andrew and Bradley about hatches, I'm off. Figuring out what to do with my hatches has been a stumbling block, and now I've got a plan:
anchor locker and two rear lockers will be wet. My rear lockers are divided internally in two, so one will open through the face of the motorwell bulkhead, and the aft part will open on top and be the wet locker.
So, that leaves the two hatches in the casting deck. These I'd really like to be dry (at least semi-dry). And I got some good ideas of Andrew's phantom. Here's teh framing I made up and routed out yesterday. The picture shows two hatch frames on top of eachother.
Image

I'm planning on deepening the troughs about 1/4" more, and then using the jointer to get rid of some excess wood (weight).

Any problems with plan?
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:42 pm
by Steven
I did what you are doing. If your going to use a gasket, the inner edge will need to be cut down so the hatch will be flush when shut. I installed my frames and used a router with a straigh bit to cut it down. That way, I was certain the distance from the top of the deck to the gasket was the same all the way around. Ensured the hatch shuts flush all the way around for a good seal.

I would glue it together and then cover the entire thing in glass. I'd use 12oz. pieces to bridge the butt joints, or some 1/4" butt blocks on the bottom. Gluing end joints like that don't give the best bond, even with epoxy. I used strips of 3.25oz cloth in my gutters. It just melts into the epoxy and takes the bends with no problem After I cut down my inner edges for weather stripping, I glassed it with strips of 3.25 oz glass too. I also drilled holes in the rear corners and glued in pvc 90 degree hose barbs. The hose drains to the bilge. I'm installing the hose this weekend and will have some pics in my thread.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:21 am
by wadestep
Great. Imay have to order some of that 3.25 oz cloth, I've only got 6oz. I don't plan to use any hose for drains. The part of the gutters closer to the camera in the picture (where they extend all the way to the edge) will just drain off the casting deck onto the sole. Should simplify things for this hatch. The wood I got from the home store was a little wet, so I'll see if it's ready to glue up today, and I'll definatly use some 12oz at the butt seams, thanks for the idea.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:43 am
by Doc_Dyer
or router out square and fill with liquid glass mix
and re router with round bit like we discussed in the keys :wink:

I wouldn't planer any wood off of it except like Steven said on the lip where the hatch sits,
remember Andrews sticks up a little

Bradley

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:28 am
by Steven
That will work well. Be sure to glass the underside of the deck where the drains go under so there's no chance of checking and water intrusion. I do like the idea of over routing the gutters, filling, glassing over and then routing the proper sized gutters. You'll be ensured a completely water tight gutter that way. Maybe overkill. Mine is all glassed so it's probably just a matter of preference.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:56 pm
by Steven
I'd also be careful with wood that is not dry. If it's wet when you buy it, it would take months to dry to a level I'd be comfortable using. Once you glass it in, that trapped moisture is not good. You'd be better buying some 3/4" dry stock and laminating it up. that's what I did.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:49 pm
by Uncle D
I need to learn to use routers. I bought hatches. :?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:04 pm
by Doc_Dyer
Steven wrote:I'd also be careful with wood that is not dry. If it's wet when you buy it, it would take months to dry to a level I'd be comfortable using. Once you glass it in, that trapped moisture is not good. You'd be better buying some 3/4" dry stock and laminating it up. that's what I did.
Steven, I believe that he is referring to the air tightness of the locker in question, anchor locker doesn't have to be water proof

:wink: :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:38 pm
by wadestep
This is only the second thing I've used my new router for, the first was the console. I don't have a true router table, but I've made up a 2x4 table that fits the jointer, miter saw, etc... And since it's not an expensive table, I just screw a fence into the table. No problem.
Sooo, the good Doc Dyer and Andrew have convinced me to try the over-router, fill, and re-router way. Here's new wood I got (much better stock this time). i also bought a 3/4" straight router bit and made 2 passes with it, offest 1/4". That means I now have a 1" routed channel that is about 1/4" deeper than I need the final product to be.
Following that, I made up epoxy with milled fiberglass and woodflour. This was used to fill the channels completely.
Image
Image
Image
The whole bit is now curing. I did pour the first half and then wait abotu 2 hours to pour the second half, to prevent ony exotherm from overheating and making bubbles, but it doesn't seem to have been an issue.
Next, I just sand this flush, then go to town with the rounded router bit again to cut the channels.

The problem with this plan is the epoxy use. For what you see in the pictures, I used 33 oz of epoxy, plus the fillers. This is why i didn't want to do this at first - the epoxy use. I really don't think I over- cut the wood, but after re-routing the channels, we shall see... The benefit should be the ease and quickness of this - minimal sanding flush, then re-routing, and you're done. Andy was telling me how much a pain in the a** fairing the troughs was after laying the cloth...
Doc_Dyer wrote:I wouldn't planer any wood off of it except like Steven said on the lip where the hatch sits,
remember Andrews sticks up a little
I thgink I'm going to route out the areas where the nuts will interfere with the frames. I'd never even considered this before seeing the Phantom.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:47 pm
by wadestep
P.S.
Due to an error on my part, I had to order additional plywood for the casting deck. Wellll.... since shipping for 1 sheet and shipping for 5 sheets was approximatley the same amount... I ended up with the wood to build my next boat!!!
GV10 here I come (after 3-4 months). I already have a 9.9 hp, and I will likely build it workboat style, so I'm thinking it will go quick. I plan on it being my 'expidition boat' for multiple night forays up some rivers in the SE US - ie Suwanne, Satilla, maybe across FL on the Okechobee waterway, etc...
I figure my motor will plane me in that boat with 3-4 night provisions, and 15-20 gals of gas.
Now to stop dreaming of the next one, and back to the excitement of finishing the current one.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:51 pm
by wadestep
P.P.S.
My spelling is atrocious tonight. Can you believe I can spell atrocious and not 'approximatley' or 'expidition'?
Such is my mindset after 10 hours of boat work.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:27 pm
by wegcagle
Nice work Wade 8) I bet you're gonna be much happier with the new method. Nothing better than learning from the experience of people who have been there. I'm filing this into my future boat builds.

Keep up the good work

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:44 pm
by wadestep
updates - I've put a lot of hours in Thurs, Sat, Sun.
progress on the hatches:
all the pices look like this in cross-section:
Image
hatch laying on top of the framing:
Image
Image
without the hatch on top. The 2 little indents in the top gutter are for the 3rd bolt for the hinges. I believe that the small nuts on the bottom of the hinges will fit into the gutters plus the indents:
Image
to give you an idea of the measurements I made:
Image
i also put a bead of 5200 on the bottom of this:
Image
and installed it here:
Image
then put the console over the top of it:
Image
now the fuel tank is permanent, and the console is also cleated in! Progress!!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:13 pm
by danieloldhouse
Very fine job Wade! Thanks for sharing it.
Daniele

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:04 pm
by wegcagle
Nice work Wade. Those hatches are going to look great. Did you coal tar epoxy your tank? Just curious

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:32 pm
by wadestep
With the fuel tank, I etched it with some west-system liquid product, and then immediatly applied coal-tar epoxy. That is some really nasty, stinky stuff, but it goes on super thick (kinda like I think Kiwi Grip will be) and 2 coats wet-on-wet left a good thickness. After it completely cured, it is very difficult to get a finger nail to leave a mark, yet should be flexible enough for the tank. I'm glad I did it, hopefully it will add some years to the life of the tank.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:22 pm
by SmokyMountain
Wade,

Just got back and catching up on your hatches. I like alot. Minimal / no fiberglass layup and waterproof. 8) 8) Wish I would have though of that before I installed mine 8O

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:55 am
by wadestep
All the credit goes to your build. Thanks for the ideas. I've been spending the last 2 evenings sealing up multiple backing plates and the framing wood with 3 thick coats of epoxy. The console is cleated in on the inside, and next to tape it in on the outside.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:30 pm
by wadestep
updated pictures:
I've been stressing about getting the raw water through-hull in. The way it's sitting on the cradle, I couldn't drill the hole. Way back when, before fiberglassing anything, I pre-drilled a big hole, filled it, and it's under all the glass of the hull. I'm very happy I did that, but now there's only one place the through-hull can be. Then, I built a livewell on top of it, limiting vertical clearance.

So... Had to jack up the back of the boat from the cradle:
Image
then cut a backing plate from 1/2" ply
Image
made my very own through-hull wrench
Image
Laying under the boat, drilled the hole. You can just barely see the color difference in the hull where it is all epoxy and no wood.
Image
then used 5200 underneath, and glued in the backing plate at the same time I tightened down the nut. Also put on teh seacock and 90 deg elbow.
Image
only had about 3/4" vertical clearance, but it all fit!
Image
Since it was all put in place wet, if I ever want to get that through-hull out again I'll probably have to use a butane torch to heat it and soften the epoxy. But it won't be going anywhere- it's basically bedded in 5200 and wood flour.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:35 pm
by wadestep
Also got the starboard side rear wet locker framed out
Image
and the cut outs for the hawse pipes (with a 1/2" backing plate underneath)
Image
Not pictured yet is also the anchor locker clamshell is permanently installed, and the front casting decks with their water-tight hatches are glued down, to be taped up tomorrow.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:31 am
by Cracker Larry
Nice work, Wade. I like the custom wrench 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:53 pm
by wadestep
Three more things we got done this weekend.:
placed the casting deck, taped it in, and then layed 10oz cloth over it all, overlapping all joints inaddition to the biax. Then filled the weave and semi-faired it :
Image
also put cloth and fairing on the hatches for the casting deck
Image
finally, put a thin strip of 12 oz biax on top, and then woven tape all along the transom, so the end won't check in the future.
Image
all told, I put in about 24 hours in the past 3 days, and Robin another 16. Pushing to get it wet, yet do it right!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:12 am
by topwater
Nice looking work Wade, you and Robin are doing a great job.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:41 pm
by wadestep
Been doing some more work on the OB19:
had to cut some backing plates for the gemlux latches:
Image
bought some boat bling - figured bubinga trim
Image
Image
It now is covered with 3 coats of system 3 clear coat epoxy. I'm going to overcoat it with perfection 2 part varnish.
The trim wood is going to go here on the bow where the blue tape is:
Image
and here on the stern. The middle strip is actually structural to prevent the livewell water from bowing out the motorwell bulkhead:
Image

also been doing a lot of fine hand-sanding, plus boxing out some 'wire chases' to get the wires consealed from the casting deck to the bow running light. As you can see, I've cut out the hatches into the face of the motorwell bulkhead, and not picutred is the anchor locker hatch. More pictures to come later.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:05 pm
by Steven
Looking good. Are those cutouts for tackle drawers? I've planned for adding some in those locations in the future. I placed my top deck hatches back from the bulk head enough so that the drawer boxes won't be directly under the deck openinngs, if that makes sense.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 6:53 pm
by wadestep
Yeah, I get what you're saying. I'm actually for now just going to make those regular hatches. I've divided up the compartment space there with an internal divider that runs side-side roughly in the middle. So I put hatches on top of the aft part of the compartment (also where the chase tubes run) and then going to put a vertical hatch where those cut-outs are. The compartments there just looked too large without some kind of organization.

I did size them to be just a little smaller than a couple tackle drawers available, and a couple plastic pre-made hatches. That way I've got some options later if changing them out is the way to go.

But for now I'm planing on building the hatch lid. If all goes as expected, those front halves of the compartments should be very dry.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 12:38 pm
by Steven
I like the wood strip stand off's. I think I'll add one to the front of my console to keep the cooler spaced off to allow the lid to open fully. Currently I'm using a seat cushion as a spacer.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:55 am
by wadestep
So, I've been too busy working on the boat to post (at least that's my excuse). All the little things really add up to a bunch of hours. I've been working on getting the chase tubes fully installed, console shelf/seat installed, gas and some electrical lines pulled through chases and strings on the rest of them:
Image
livewell drain thru-hull installed, ditto for bilge pump thru hull, bilge pump and float switch installed on backing plates and wired, livewell installed on seacock and wired, motor mounting bolts given the final drill, checked against the dry-fit bracket, and that checked against Richard's template. still need to clean up the wiring:
Image
livewell fill and drain installed, the fuel hose and filter is installed.
Image
anchor locker hatch figured out how I'm going to maintain the camber and also install the hatch lip - I'm going to clamp up against the 2x4 to bend the hatch lip into the correct camber:
Image
that's about it for now!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:39 am
by tech_support
great use of space on the livewell location, guess I missed that before.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:37 pm
by wadestep
Well, the boat is nearing completion. After hours and hours of sanding this little thing, and filling that little thing, we are finally ready to call the boat 'fair enough'. In fact, that sounds like a boat name :lol:
the console is wired - at least as far as I could get it before the paint job is done - the breaker panel is wired, a couple of other switches are wired, pumps, etc ready to go.
Image
the transom is all taped around the edges and the holes are faired:
Image
and the rest of the boat from the rubrail in has 2 coats of neat epoxy covering and sealing everything:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:56 pm
by Hope2float
Wade
She looks like she's coming along just fine. i know what you mean about little things add up on alot of time.
Dave

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:26 am
by cape man
Wade,
Your fairing work looks awesome. Will you sand again before paint since you added the two coats of epoxy?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:14 am
by SmokyMountain
Looking great Wade!! All of those details really add up in time, but once you done it will be worth it. Can't wait to see the finished product at the next boat meet. :D 8)
Andrew

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:41 am
by cottontop
She is turning in to one fine work of craftsmanship. You've really done a great job. John

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:39 am
by topwater
Getting close now Wade , Fairing looks awsome 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:41 am
by wadestep
Thanks for the encouragement everyone. Yes, I'm going to sand everything again before painting - that should really give it a nice and smooth surface to paint. Unfortunatly, that means I'm going to have to wait a week in between steps. My general plan is to 1) wait a week 2)sand, apply 2-3 coats sys 3 primer, 3) wait a week 4) sand and apply 3 coats of Interlux Perfection. That's for everything that will be left smooth.

Question - do I need any primer over neat epoxy before I apply Kiwigrip?

Question for Andrew/Bradley - How high up the sides and console did you take the KiwiGrip? 2" ? I remember liking the look, and it should simplify things some.

Thanks
Wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:13 am
by peter-curacao
wadestep wrote:Question - do I need any primer over neat epoxy before I apply Kiwigrip?
As I understood not, just rough it up with 80 grit, maybe do a test first?
Very nice job by the way, she will survive any climate change to come. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:09 am
by tech_support
wadestep wrote:
Question - do I need any primer over neat epoxy before I apply Kiwigrip?

Thanks
Wade
It sticks great to sanded epoxy.

But, it is nice to have a solid back ground to apply the KG over, just so you can see if you don't have full coverage.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:01 pm
by SmokyMountain
Question for Andrew/Bradley - How high up the sides and console did you take the KiwiGrip? 2" ? I remember liking the look, and it should simplify things some.
Wade,

I took it up around 4 inches on the center console and cockpit, that way I got above the tape lines with out having fair a whole lot :) . Also, plenty of room to knock the sh*$ out of things without hurting / scratching pretty paint. Definitely sand the neat epoxy for some tooth so the Kiwi grip will hold. If not I'm pretty sure it will peel.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:36 pm
by wadestep
shine wrote:It sticks great to sanded epoxy.

But, it is nice to have a solid back ground to apply the KG over, just so you can see if you don't have full coverage.
I added tint to the second coat of epoxy - I quick-coated on top of the first after about 10 hours, and tinted the second batch so that I could ensure 100% coverage. That's not in the pictures, but I'll consider whether it is a uniform enough color. Should have done 2 coats of tinted, then wouldn't be worrying.

SmokyMountain wrote:I took it up around 4 inches on the center console and cockpit, that way I got above the tape lines with out having fair a whole lot . Also, plenty of room to knock the sh*$ out of things without hurting / scratching pretty paint. Definitely sand the neat epoxy for some tooth so the Kiwi grip will hold. If not I'm pretty sure it will peel.
OK - I think I've got the tape seams all faired, except maybe along the console bottom edge. So, I will let that be the guide. Good to know I like the way it looks as high as 4" - I wouldn't have guessed yours was that high. Indestructible is also good :wink: .
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:57 pm
by wadestep
sanded yesterday AM and then got a coat of silvertip primer on around 6pm last nigh. Woke up this AM, and just started rolling on the primer. Ended up with 3 coats on all the surfaces that will get Interlux Perfection, and 2 coats under where the KiwiGrip will be - to even out the base color like Joel recommended.
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I love it when the boat looks different after a day's work :!: :!: :!:
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:17 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Nice looking work Wade 8) That is a pretty boat for sure :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:27 pm
by Cracker Larry
Looks really good Wade 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:51 pm
by wegcagle
Great work Wade. She's a beauty for sure 8)

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:42 am
by whosmatt
wadestep wrote: I love it when the boat looks different after a day's work :!: :!: :!:
wade
There's no better feeling in the world. Looking forward to seeing the Perfection on her; it's good paint.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:40 am
by ks8
wadestep wrote: I love it when the boat looks different after a day's work :!: :!: :!:
wade
I second that! :D 8)

We'll, while under construction... :lol:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:41 am
by peter-curacao
Wow 8O that looks great!! 8)

Edit: I'm a bit surprised though not seeing any rod holder holes for such fishing fanatics as you and your lovely wife

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:56 am
by wadestep
peter-curacao wrote:Edit: I'm a bit surprised though not seeing any rod holder holes for such fishing fanatics as you and your lovely wife
I've got them, just havent' installed them yet. I really don't know why they haven't been installed yet. You're right, it's time!
ks8 wrote:We'll, while under construction...
:lol: After construction, that could mean a whole lot of work.

Later yesterday, i put the final coat of clear coat epoxy on the trim wood pieces. Still need to prime the hatch covers, the hatch lips, epoxy on the trim pieces, and hopefully paint. Painting may not be for another week or so.

I figure the boat will be launched with a couple of minor things to accomplish still, but I need to get that motor hung. The dealership has been holding on to it since may!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:29 pm
by SmokyMountain
Looks great Wade, nothing like a change of scenery!! I know when I got some primer on the Phantom it was all grins :D Didn't get as much work done because I would stop and stare 8O .

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:44 pm
by 94Virago
Wade, I've already chosen the OB19 as the next boat I'm going to build when I've used up my Runabout. Your build has helped to keep me motivated.


...but no pressure!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:49 pm
by Steven
Looking Good Wade. That's a great point.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:58 am
by wadestep
Painting, painting, painting. Interlux Perfection lays down nice, but man does it stink!
I've now got the final coat of blue on the outside of the hull, and applied 2 coats of Arctic white on teh inside on Sat, sanded Sun AM, and then did the final inside coat also. All done with the paint! (not including kiwigrip).
The hull is actually blue, but here's a reflection picture:
Image
the actural color:
Image
stern shot:
Image
The paint is certainly not perfect It's about a 5-foot finish. At about 1 foot the dust becomes obvious, at 3-5' some brush strokes. But I decided ahead of time not to be too anal, and be happy.

The hatches are lagging behind - still need to prime and paint them. However, They are all drilled and sealed. I'm pushing to get the motor hung, so I could work on the hatch lids while they are installing the motor. The console is now done being painted also - time to install the guages, helm, binnacle, and the rest of the hardware.

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:08 pm
by Cracker Larry
Looking good Wade, very good :!:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:18 pm
by icelikkilinc
the paint looks nice... love the colors...

should be able to get rid of the dust with 0 grit sanding and a cotton polishing action by hand...
of course after the paint is fully cured.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:57 pm
by wadestep
That's a good idea - I've never really though about doing that to paint. I've wet sanded gelcoat before with good results, maybe it's the same? I'll keep that in mind - maybe make up a test painted board now, think about that in 2-3 weeks.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:21 pm
by icelikkilinc
that is quite a common practice around here...

really hard to get rid of dusts in open areas whatever care you do.. so they try to cover that up by make up :lol: :lol:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:23 pm
by Steven
wadestep wrote:That's a good idea - I've never really though about doing that to paint. I've wet sanded gelcoat before with good results, maybe it's the same? I'll keep that in mind - maybe make up a test painted board now, think about that in 2-3 weeks.
wade

Looking good. Like the color. :) You don't want to wet sand this paint. Part of the great thing about these 2 part paints is the surface finish is very durable and UV resistant. If you wet sand, you will need to wax to maintain the luster. I'd live with the dust. In fact, that's exactly what I'm doing. :) Trust me. Know one notices. They look on it in wonder that you've built such a thing. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:29 pm
by cottontop
Love the paint. She is going to be one beautiful lady in and out of the water. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:32 pm
by cape man
But I decided ahead of time not to be too anal, and be happy.
That's the right attitude! Go fishin'! She's Gorgeous!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:02 pm
by peter-curacao
she looks great 8) any chance of overall shots?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:44 am
by topwater
Looking real nice Wade :!: Getting close now , cant wait to see pic's of her on the water 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:44 am
by wadestep
Thanks for the info Steven - I'll do a lot of research before/if I ever get the hankering to sand it. I've sucessfully convinced myself that I'm OK with some dust. I actually think it is going to work - I've previously painted a 15' Whaler with the same paint, and I'm perfectly happy with how it turned out.

I'd like to get some good overall shots, but I'm worried that because of the weight, I won't be able to get the castor wheels back up a 1/2" lip from the driveway back to the garage. So, I haven't had it out of the garage since the deck was put on. I could try a wide-angle lense with a better camera, but being in the garage I'm kinda limited.

I installed the breaker panel, the spashwell rigging boot, the key switch, the navigation lights switches, and the fuel vent last night. Should get some more time today to install the pie-eyes, stern tow eyes, cleats, hawse pipes, and wiring today I hope.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:26 pm
by ks8
You all are selling me on going with the shiney paint next time. The bar is going up again. so high I can barely see it anymore! :lol:

Nice! 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:31 pm
by wadestep
wadestep wrote: I installed the breaker panel, the spashwell rigging boot, the key switch, the navigation lights switches, and the fuel vent last night. Should get some more time today to install the pie-eyes, stern tow eyes, cleats, hawse pipes, and wiring today I hope.
Image
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plus, got the fuel tank fill and vents installed:
Image
and the big bow towing eye:
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:55 pm
by tech_support
nice ! 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:58 pm
by Uncle D
Looks real good Wade. you must be about ready for the Kiwi. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:50 am
by wadestep
KiwiGrip is on! Like anything, the prep took about 3x as long as the application. lots of taping, then more taping, but the tape lines are excellent. I used 2" wide masking tape to index my height, and layed long tape strips about 1/8" above that:
Image
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Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:52 am
by wadestep
Image
and the after photos:
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Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:56 am
by wadestep
There were two of us - one spreading it around with a notched spreader - we used the medium notches - and removing tape as we went. The other was rolling it. Unfortunatly, I got called away from the project when it was 95% done, and my helper saw a spot that was a little thin. As you can see in this picture, that is not a good idea. The small areas were the only place we lost a wet edge on the whole boat. It's too bad, but we are moving forward - nothing to do about it now!
Image

I havent' done the side decks or the bow yet, think I'm going to get the motor on it soon.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:01 am
by wadestep
PS - the side color of the boat is Perfection Arctic white. The Kiwigrip color is 2.5 quarts white mixed with 1.5 quarts cream. I love the Kiwigrip color - it is exactally what I wanted, good contrast but not a lot of color. What you see applied there was exactally 1 gal, I wish we had used a little more at the very end - the texture may be a little different. But I'm really splitting hairs here. Overall, the Kiwigrip surpassed my expectations. I have redone boats before where I used sand in paint, and this is MUCH better. The paint with sand is kinda-OK nonskid, but impossible to clean properly.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:09 am
by peter-curacao
Looking great! 8)
wadestep wrote:my helper saw a spot that was a little thin. As you can see in this picture,
wade
Can't see anything

One thing, isn't it better to put some Kiwigrip in front (and next) of the hatches also? I think that's an area you will most likely step on when "climbing" on the casting deck, that rounded corner gets very slippery when wet, not that you have to Kiwigrip the whole corner, just in front of it, ah difficult to explain :doh:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:23 am
by Cracker Larry
It looks great, Wade 8)
Overall, the Kiwigrip surpassed my expectations.
Yep, it's a product that is very satisfying to use. Beat's the heck out of putting sand in paint.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:53 am
by wadestep
peter-curacao wrote:Looking great! 8)
One thing, isn't it better to put some Kiwigrip in front (and next) of the hatches also? I think that's an area you will most likely step on when "climbing" on the casting deck, that rounded corner gets very slippery when wet, not that you have to Kiwigrip the whole corner, just in front of it, ah difficult to explain :doh:
I think I know what you are saying. The reason I didn't put it there is because that area is only about 1.5" wide. The tape on it in the picture is 1.5" wide tape, and completely covers it. If I keep a border around all the hatches, there really isn't much room to put Kiwi Grip. However, I'll keep that suggestion in mind. If I start slipping or having poor traction after the launch, I'll reconsider.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:01 pm
by ks8
8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 3:35 pm
by wegcagle
Great work Wade and Robin. I like the way you did the Kiwigrip on the sole. I think that I'm gonna copy your method 8)

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:05 pm
by wadestep
Copy away! I borrowed it from Andrew. I wasn't sure I liked the idea until I saw his boat in the Keys. His boat's Kiwigrip and mine now both are good looking to me. In fact, I could have done quite a bit less fairing of the tape seams around the edges of the sole. I wasn't sure I was going to do this, so I faired them anyways. The only place I took advantage of that was the console-deck joint. Kiwigrip covers a lot and looks good doing it.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:26 am
by Doc_Dyer
wadestep wrote: I borrowed it from Andrew
and he got it from Steven's OB19 in Texas build :wink:

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:33 am
by peter-curacao
I kept paint on those locations, apart from the convenience of not fairing is there any particular reason to put the kiwi grip all the way up?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:01 am
by wegcagle
No reason I can think of Peter. Just a difference in style. I really like the line it creates all the way around the sole. Just looks good to my eye :D

Given that I made a bunch of silly rookie mistakes on my boat (expecially installing the sole) I just feel like covering it all up with kiwigrip will look better and take less time than spending hours upon hours redoing yet another stupid set of rookie mistakes. :oops: After almost 5 years (including my 3 yr hiatus) I am ready to get her splashed, and get some miles on her.

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:31 am
by peter-curacao
I had the strange idea that leaving it just paint in those areas it would more or less function like "gutters" so the water flows easier away towards the scuppers, that's why I did it like this(see pic). (Wade sorry for the Hijack)
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:57 am
by wadestep
peter-curacao wrote:I had the strange idea that leaving it just paint in those areas it would more or less function like "gutters" so the water flows easier away towards the scuppers, that's why I did it like this
I'm not sure that it will do much function as a gutter, but then what do I know? Maybe in the lightest drizzle more water will run there than over the Kiwigrip, but I'm not sure. Anyways, I think it's more of an aesthetic thing. Especially since I'd already faired most all my tape seams.
It also led to less difficult masking tape prep job. I bet my masking took 1/4 the time it would have otherwise. However, Peter your boat looks awesome. And your interior is also much more complicated than mine - curves, seat, etc. Running Kiwigrip up the sides might not have looked as good in your boat as it would on an OB19 or similar boat. If I was building your boat, I think I'd do it like you have.

Hijack away! No prob.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 12:42 pm
by ks8
Running Kiwigrip up the sides might not have looked as good in your boat as it would on an OB19 or similar boat. If I was building your boat, I think I'd do it like you have.
Although it is best to *see it* to know exactly what it would look like, in my imagination's eye, I very much agree. Both boats look just right, just the way they have been done, imho. :D But then it could also be simply that both boats were done well just the way they have been done. It might sound like that's not saying much, but it is saying much! 8)

I'm guessing that the texture rollers roll easily into and through a seam's curve to take the KG up an inch or two? Or was that a bit tricky?

I have yet to paint the bottom panels of the CV16, and I'm beginning to get sold on this stuff.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 12:59 pm
by wadestep
The sole-to-side panels were somewhat more than 90deg, and they were easy. However, the sole-to-motorwell bulkhead and console were all 90deg, and they could be tricky. The roller is too large to just run it perpendicular to the joint, up and down, it wouldn't get in the edge. So then I'd roll parallel to the joint, first on the side, and then on the sole. It worked OK, but you had to be careful or the very end of the roller would scrape along the other face and scrape off all the texture you'd just applied.
It's not a big deal, but a tool like this
Image (BBC corner laminating roller)
if you could somehow put the texture of the roller cover on it and roll that in the 90 degree corners would have made life easier. A chip brush blotted in the corner might have worked also. Neither are required, though.

On the whole, application was no big deal for 2 people, and it sure covers nicely.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:17 pm
by ks8
Thanks for the tips. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 3:43 pm
by SmokyMountain
Wade,

Just catching up on your threat... looking great :D . Love the Kiwi job you did.. your not far off. Still a lot of work in the details. I'm planning on doing some fixes / jobs left un-done on mine soon. The Kiwi up the side idea was Steve's not mine... just a good idea.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:49 pm
by cape man
Man that is lookin' awesome!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:03 am
by wadestep
Well, the work this weekend slowed some, because I got to go here:
Image
GO GATORS!!!!
But I did get home on Sun in time to recruit some help and got the boat out of the garage and onto a trailer!
Image
Image
I really tried to make the process much harder than it needed to be. Basically, we were able to jack up the bow enough to then tilt the trailer and get the bunks back near the console. from there, we just left the trailer tilted up with the tounge on a table, which gave us the optimal angle. Then it was just winching it up. No problems, no scratches, easy. I did come up with all kinds of unneccesary ways to make it complicated, but it could have been done in 45 mins.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:23 am
by Cracker Larry
She sure looks good out in the sunshine 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:30 am
by Steven
That is looking reall good Wade. Still like the color. The Kiwi Grip looks good too.

To Peters, question, I think. I ran kiwi grip up the sides for two reasons. Less fairing needed, but more importantly to me, I could see as I worked on the boat during construction the bottom 4" or so of the sides got stepped against the toe of my shoes/boots. Plus factoring in sliding buckets, tackle boxes and coolers, I wanted it for durability. A pencil taped to the top of an appropriately sized block, makes a nice level line around the sole for taping. ;)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:15 am
by Marshall Moser
I love the color!

I couldn't own it around here, though. I might be confused with a Dook fan.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:49 am
by wadestep
Yeah, wouldn't want that. Around here, I'd only get confused for a Gator fan, which is just fine. :wink:


I discovered that the boat really didn't drain like I wanted it to - it would leave a 1/8" of standing water in the stern - my fault for wanting to plug the stern holes, I used a full pvc instead of a 1/2-round. Anyways, I've got it figured out now, going to add 2 small cockpit drains out the side pluggable with clamshells outside. can't have too much drainage!

wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 12:27 pm
by Uncle D
Looks great Wade. can't wait till I get there.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:09 pm
by Steven
wadestep wrote:Yeah, wouldn't want that. Around here, I'd only get confused for a Gator fan, which is just fine. :wink:


I discovered that the boat really didn't drain like I wanted it to - it would leave a 1/8" of standing water in the stern - my fault for wanting to plug the stern holes, I used a full pvc instead of a 1/2-round. Anyways, I've got it figured out now, going to add 2 small cockpit drains out the side pluggable with clamshells outside. can't have too much drainage!

wade

I found the same problem. I have the 2 outside drains, but opening any time but running will result in water coming in, not going out. They're for draining wash water or water coming over the bow while running, which I hope to avoid. I have a 1 1/4" drain hole centered on the motorwell bulkhead draining into the bilge. It does not drain quickly enough for my liking. I want to be able to dump a bucket of water to clean the deck and have it go completely away in short order. I don't want to be standing in water sloshing back and forth as it slowly makes it's way into the bilge. I went with the hole so it can be plugged, but it is not enough. I'm going to cut a 4" wide by 3" tall drain where the hole is. Ran into this when trying to clean up fish slime and blood from those Kings. :) Good problem to have, but solveable.



You can see the side holes right on water line.

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:11 pm
by peter-curacao
wadestep wrote: Image
I really tried to make the process much harder than it needed to be. Basically, we were able to jack up the bow enough to then tilt the trailer and get the bunks back near the console. from there, we just left the trailer tilted up with the tounge on a table, which gave us the optimal angle. Then it was just winching it up. No problems, no scratches, easy. I did come up with all kinds of unneccesary ways to make it complicated, but it could have been done in 45 mins.
wade
8O Wow she's a beauty, I,m still figuring out how to get mine out of the carport, stupid thing I did @ the flip is putting her back in bow first :?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:05 pm
by wadestep
Steven wrote:I have the 2 outside drains
Yeah - I see yours there, mine will be very similar - for when washing or on the trailer/lift, it will drain 100%. I also have two 1" PVC scuppers that are pluggable. They run from the aft cockpit, through the stern hatches, and out the transom. We'll just see what happens when it hits the water. At least everything can be plugged.

Steven - do those side drain holes of yours require a clamshell on the outside of the hull (ie does water geyser in while you are running if the plugs are out?
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:19 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Wade, your boat is looking great! I love the blue paint too. Awesome work!!!
Different boat, but I had to put the clamshell thingys on my drain holes too. It looked like Old Faithful when I was on a plane :lol: I made mine out of fiberglass and epoxy...

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:24 pm
by Cracker Larry
Yeah, mine will geyser in the cockpit drains too. I just leave them plugged except when on the trailer.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:24 pm
by Walkers Run
Great looking boat. Outstanding job. Love the color. But this is the best picture yet
Image
GO GATORS!!!!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:39 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Walkers Run wrote:Great looking boat. Outstanding job. Love the color. But this is the best picture yet
Image
GO GATORS!!!!
Same picture, different angle from my Gator brother Majorgator :lol: :lol:

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:22 pm
by cterese12
Image

boooooooooo!!! oh well, at least it was an sec team.
geaux-tigers

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:19 pm
by Steven
wadestep wrote:
Steven wrote:I have the 2 outside drains
Yeah - I see yours there, mine will be very similar - for when washing or on the trailer/lift, it will drain 100%. I also have two 1" PVC scuppers that are pluggable. They run from the aft cockpit, through the stern hatches, and out the transom. We'll just see what happens when it hits the water. At least everything can be plugged.

Steven - do those side drain holes of yours require a clamshell on the outside of the hull (ie does water geyser in while you are running if the plugs are out?
wade

I haven't tried but will next trip. They're up above water level quite a bit on plan, so I wouldn't think so, but I could be wrong. I'll let you know. At slower speeds in rough water I could see it a possible problem.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:11 am
by wadestep
That's what I was thinking. Thanks to both for the confirmation! I think I'm going to install clamshells over them, partially because I know have an epoxy-plug hole there to cover up, since I had already finished painting before drilling these holes.
It's out back at work now, and I'm dropping it off at the dealership for the new motor today.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:23 am
by wadestep
That was possibly the only game I'll be able to get to this year, and what a game!!! Defense was outstanding!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 12:13 pm
by Steven
wadestep wrote:That's what I was thinking. Thanks to both for the confirmation! I think I'm going to install clamshells over them, partially because I know have an epoxy-plug hole there to cover up, since I had already finished painting before drilling these holes.
It's out back at work now, and I'm dropping it off at the dealership for the new motor today.
wade

WOOT!!! What motor are you going with?


Edit: Saw other post.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:11 pm
by wadestep
Its at the dealership! - The people there were very nice, took all my specifications, and even wrote down NO SCREWS! on the service order. IT should be all ready - they are going to install the hydraulic lines, electrical cables, battery cables, baystar sterring, etc...
Steven - it's a 115HP 4-stroke Yamaha.
wade
They've got 7 days....

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:13 pm
by Cracker Larry
8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 3:06 pm
by Steven
I love my Yammy. Fuel sipping. I think you will like the 115. The 90 pushes her nicely, but she can handle more for sure.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:43 pm
by wadestep
Just got the call - the boat is nearly READY!!!!!!
I'm going to sea-trial it this afternoon, the motor should be finished by then, and get it for good on Wed. Now if only the officer who should be doing the inspection would get on the ball!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:16 pm
by Doc_Dyer
yea :D :D :D :D :D

dont forget the video :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:44 pm
by wegcagle
Awesome Wade :!: Congrats 8) Can't wait to hear the performance numbers. I'm betting this boats gonna haul a$$ with that 115.

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:07 pm
by Prarie Dog
Awesome Wade, can't wait to see the splash pics and hopefully video. If you want some awesome video try a Go Pro on a pole or use any of a variety of mounts they make for them.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:05 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Congratulations :D I'm also looking forward to the splash pics 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 7:45 pm
by cottontop
Way to go Wade. "Your" day is nearly here. Beautiful boat. John

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:05 am
by wadestep
Been a slight delay in the plans: I left my office yesterday at 3pm, sun shining, puffy clouds in the sky. I drove the 25 miles to the dealership and by the time I got there, it was pouring. The 4 lane street was swamped, cars stalled in water. It continued pouring for at least 45 mins. Ugh.
So, no sea-trial yesterday. I did get to talk with the mechanic who did the installation and rigged the guages/throttle, hydraulics, etc... He basically said there were no problems, the boat is ready to go. I had them put a 13x19 Stiletto stainless prop on there, but the first 2 hours are reduced RPM anyways, so wouldn't have been able to test that out fully.
Image
That's about as close as I go to it. Hope to just take delivery today or tomorrow. The problem is that I'm headed to fish the Dry Tortugas thurs-sat, and then alligator hunt Sun. The suspense is killing me!!!!!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:13 am
by Cracker Larry
The problem is that I'm headed to fish the Dry Tortugas thurs-sat, and then alligator hunt Sun.
Problem :doh: Tough life, fishing in the Tortugas :lol:

I found the pics of the trolling motor shim plate that I made...

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 0&start=30

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:01 am
by wadestep
Splashed! Got it back from the dealership a day early, threw some life jackets in, and launched it. No flares, no whistling device, not registered, no numbers, but I couldn't wait. The first hour was up to 2,000 rpm, 9-10 mph (I think)
2,000 RPM was barely on plane:
Image
video of the first 2 minutes of launch - not that exciting to watch, but here it is anyways:
Image

and then at 3,000 RPM - 20 MPH
Image

Finally, as the sun was going down and no Nav lights, I got past the 2 hour break-in period. 4,000 RPM was 33 MPH. Max speed was 40 MPH at 5100 RPM. That's with a stainless 13x19 prop. Looks like I need to go down a size or two - going to post that question under the powerboats forum. With a little tweaking, should get a little more out of her.
Basically, I was very impressed with the responsiveness, love the Yamaha, will post more on-the-water review following some more time.
Now, if only that officer would schedule the inspection.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:05 am
by Cracker Larry
Congrats on the splash, Wade 8) And great job on the entire build, well done :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:17 am
by peter-curacao
wadestep wrote: video of the first 2 minutes of launch - not that exciting to watch, but here it is anyways:

wade
Are you kidding? every video of a self made boat especially one as beautiful as yours is exiting! loved the comments also 8) She is looking great Wade! You've done fabulous job! Congratulations on the splash. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:21 am
by tech_support
what a great way to start the day, thanks for posting the video and pictures. Congratulations Wade :!: I remember when you came over to pick up the stack of wood :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:25 am
by SmokyMountain
Congratulations Wade!! 8) Can't wait to see her at the meet. She's a beauty!!! 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:43 am
by wegcagle
Great job Wade :!: She's a beauty for sure. Awesome video and pictures. Can't wait to see it at the next meet 8)

Will

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:55 am
by Swamp Skiff
That looks great Wade! Congrats!

Swamp

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:02 am
by wadestep
shine wrote:what a great way to start the day, thanks for posting the video and pictures. Congratulations Wade :!: I remember when you came over to pick up the stack of wood :)
Wow - that seems like a long time ago. I've really enjoyed every minute of it. I now find myself wondering what to do with an hour here, an hour there, when I don't have a boat in the garage to build. I've still got some fitting out to accomplish, and kiwi-gripping the side decks.

I've definatly got the BBV, though. I've already got the wood for the next build - GV10 (vs GV11). SWMBO says I can't start until after New Years, though. I can't really blame her, she's been a trooper through the build, even mixing epoxy and laying fiberglass. Plus, I've got a new boat to run!

Thanks for all the compliments everyone, and I'll definatly show up at the next meet with a Bateau boat! (4 meets without completing a boat would qualify me for the wall of shame or something :lol: )

I got it on the boat lift out back last night - was out there until 10pm adjusting the bunks and guide posts.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:27 am
by Uncle D
Great job Wade. Excellent workmanship. I don't think I coulda' waited either. :wink:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:19 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Nice work Wade! You have built a first class boat for sure 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:59 pm
by Steven
WOOT!!!! Way to go, Looks great!!!!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:12 am
by Prarie Dog
Awesome job Wade, think you've built a great boat, really like the colors. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:59 am
by topwater
Great job Wade :!:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:21 am
by SmokyMountain
I now find myself wondering what to do with an hour here, an hour there....
I went through the same thing too. After following my wife around for a few weeks, she said "don't you have a project to do so something??!!" :lol: . So I'm going to build a sit-on-top kayak 8) After I do a few tweaks on the Phantom.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:18 am
by wadestep
SmokyMountain wrote:After following my wife around for a few weeks, she said "don't you have a project to do so something??!!"
What a plan. I've got a few home-things to do, but I'm sure she'll want me out of her hair sooner than later :wink: .

I've been out of town since Thurs - went down to the Tortugas fishing. I'll post picts on the fishing thread. I did manage to get the boat inspection done yesterday, and now have the certificate of inspection for homemade vessels in my hand. Hope to be able to get the title soon.
Also got the first coat of paint on the hatch covers.
I didn't get to run the new boat at all this weekend, between fishing and trying to alligator hunting. However, yesterday morning I had an axle break while trailering a different boat 65MPH at 4AM. If you look closely, the starboard wheel is screwed. Luckily no damage to the 15' Whaler I was towing. The whole thing fit on a flatbed trailer, and got towed home.
Image
No more alligator for me this year. :(
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:59 am
by wadestep
really got out to use it over the past 2 days. Put a good 70 miles on it, trolled Boca Grande PAss and caught a nice gag grouper, and tested out towing it behind my father's boat.
First, video of me running 30 MPH at 44k RPM:
just click on the picture
Image
Another the same, but rougher. Click on picture
Image
and a pictures
Image


...more to come.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:14 am
by wadestep
So, I brought the towing gear, put in a splice and thimble or two, and we were ready to test towing at speed for the first time!
First, slow tow out of the harbor with the boat close:
Image
then 8 knots:
Image
and then - 23 knots!
Image
The towing bridle consisted of a V-shape from the big boat, about 30' each leg, and then 120' of single line. Everything attatched with thimbles, all 3/4" line, and at least 1/2" shackles. I rode on the OB19 for about 10 mins of 8 knots, and 10 mins of 23 knots, and everything felt great. Even better, the small skegs I put on worked perfectly, the motor was able to be completely out of the water and the boat tracked fine. We did not try faster, as the faster you went, the more 'squirrely' it seemed, but 23 knots was very stable feeling. here's the video:
Image

Image

Sorry it's sideways, I'll see if I can correct that.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:26 am
by wadestep
Can't figure out how to correct for it being sideways. Anyways, you can see how dead-straight it was tracking. That was with the motor completely out of the water. Other boats we've towed like this have to have the skeg of the outboard in the water to help with tracking, and I really didn't wan that force on the motor, transom, and also the prop spinning. Here, I can just set the outboard on the trailer brakcet and it's out of the water from 7 knots on up, and no tracking problems.

I'll tell you one thing, though, it was a little scary seeing a 3-4' breaking wake beside you and imagining the boat drifting outside the wake and then trying to get back in. I saw a 13' Whaler do that once, and it wasn't pretty, although it didn't flip or hurt anything.
wade

PS - if anyone knows why I can't embed the videos, and it redirects me to photobucket to watch them, let me know.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:33 pm
by topwater
Great vid's Wade , looks like the tow setup is working well. When are you heading to the islands with it 8) 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 4:34 pm
by cottontop
Viewed your videos last night. Great work on your boat. All that hard work is sure paying off. 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:13 pm
by wadestep
Thanks guys - it was really gratifying to see the plan work out. Unfortunatly, I missed the trip to the Islands by about 5 months this year - it happened before the boat was done. So, maybe next summer... At 8 knots it was very stable, the water was just breaking into what you might call a 'plane' - the wake was just seperating from the transom and forming into a 'wake' behind the boat. This plus pulling from down on the chine kept the bow up in the air and a very stable tow.
I'm pretty sure it will work in the open ocean to about 4-6' seas if required.
Still need to earn some more $ to install a rocket launcher and T-top, but it's perfectly functional as is.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:17 pm
by StngStr
Just went through this entire thread page by page, picture by picture. Love it, very nice job!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:36 am
by wadestep
Had to post another picture or two.
Image
Image
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:03 am
by topwater
Wade now that you have had time to use OB what are your thoughts or observations :?:

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:35 pm
by wadestep
Some thoughts/observations after 60-70 hours on the engine:
- the boat is SOLID! After building this boat I have so much confidence in it's abilities that I sometimes wonder how I could have been so confident in production boats with a large, wet bilge, poorly mounted seacocks, insufficient drainage, poor wiring, etc... The quality of all of this is higher on my build, and I don't pretend that I even did an above-average job as compared to others here. This boat will never sink, and the fully-glassed hull will last as long as I care for it to last (20-30+ years).
- the boat is economical! I put in a 60 gallon tank, and guess that I get 5-6 MPG. I can go many days of fishing without refilling the tank. I like this because it sits on a boat lift and carrying gas cans around my yard is something I don't want to do every trip out.
- The boat is light! It is very responsive to the throttle, gets on plane quickly without too much bow rise.
- the boat is stable! it is a very large-feeling 19' boat, and everyone sitting or fishign on one side is no big deal at all.
- the livewell arrangement just behind the motorwell bulkhead is working out great, and that would otherwise be mostly wasted space.
- the boat rides OK. It is 'slappy' when running into a head sea, even only of 1 foot or so. It does not ride like a deep-V boat. Running into waves provides a jolt or slap, more than I was hoping for. However, the beneficial trade-offs include batter MPG, faster with same HP, more stable at rest, faster to plane, more beam=more room, etc...
- the boat is very dry when either putting or running. not much spray gets thrown up and into the boat at all.
- the boat does not turn super sharply on plane. It slides more than I was figuring on. Really not a problem, since I'm not entering slalom races. I put on 2 small 'keels' and I would make them taller somewhat next time to help with sliding. Again, I'm used to deep-V hulls.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:47 pm
by wadestep
- the boat is very tolerant of weight = high load capacity Even with a 115hp 4-stroke and a 20+ gal livewell, it is self-bailing at rest and runs well on plane.
- The drainage is not great. I can move a lot of water out of the cockpit, but the water tends to come in and out at rest as the boat rocks in small waves. Also, the boat drifts with the stern to the wind, which pushes water into the aft drains. This leads to a wet, salty dog all day of fishing. Not so bad when it's 95 outside. If I were to re-do it, I might raise the sole a little bit. Also, I would create a trough by notching the stringers just in front of the motorwell bulkhead. Then I'd keep the sole in the stern lockers lower so water would drain out better. If anyone is seriously considering this, ask me, I've got ideas.
- My stern lockers collect water and grow mold. I need more ventilation and better drainage. I've about got that figured out, just need to implement it.
- I like where the gas tank is.
- Kiwigrip is great.
- I could have spent a little more time with the longboard on the hull sides. The inside is fine. But if the light is just perfect, and the sunset reflection just perfect, and you have your head plastered along the hull, the medium-dark blue glossy paint shows ANY inperfection. It's about a 2 foot finish late around dusk.
- again, the boat is solid. I can jump on any part of the side decks, forward casting deck, aft decks, whatever, without any flex.
- Also again - even though the boat does is a little slappy running into a chop at 30 MPH, I'd rather have this boat out offshore in nasty weather than most 22-24' production boats. You can always slow down for the waves, but there's no replacement for a well thought-out boat with lots of flotation, good wiring, proper routing of fuel lines, good drainage, etc...
- I plane at 17 MPH, fast cruise is at 28-29 MPH, and WOT is around 40 MPH and 5800 RPMs
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:43 pm
by AtTheBrink
Thank you for posting that!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:55 am
by topwater
Wade great post , lots of good info there. Glad your enjoying the boat 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:50 pm
by wadestep
How's about resurrecting the thread for a bit...
I am now at 100 hours on the motor, and figured I'd bring it to a mechanic for the first time since 0 hours to have it looked over. I did the 20 hour service.
Anyways, because of that, I had to put it on the trailer. It lives on the boat lift on the canal at my house usually. And, since it needed to be on the trailer, I couldnt' come up with any more excuses for putting off the final kiwi-grip. When it was launched, I kiwi-gripped the entire sole but not the side decks. it has been a slippery hassle at times, especially for the dog.
so, without further ado, here's the pictures:
Image
Image
Image
Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:56 pm
by wadestep
Image
Image
Image
I've also got a canvas/seat guy lined up to do the forward console seat, and the console cover. Soon I need a leaning post/rocket launcher. the funds are fairly short, so I won't get the leaning post done before the boat builder's meet. :( following that is the t-top. somewhere in there is electronics...
However, I am getting the full use out of an excellent boat in the mean time!
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:56 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Nice 8) Looking forward to seeing your boat in Boca :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:26 am
by peter-curacao
That looks great! very nicely done 8) wish I could see it live @ Boca!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:55 am
by wadestep
Thanks, guys!
One tip I learned that may help others is that having a double tape line at the breaks in the Kiwi-grip was very nice. It allowed you to pull one tape up and actually have a stopping point for the application of the Kiwi-grip. Where there was only one piece of tape seperating the two painted sections, it was as if you had to keep a wet edge regardless of the tape. That's because you have to pull the tape up so soon after applying the paint, that one strip of tape didn't allow for a real stopping point.
Image

You can see the double tape line at the bottom of the picture here. We did it bcause we liked the look, but it was a real help.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:57 pm
by Steven
Looking good Wade. I'm about to reapply Kiwi to the sole after getting the new console installed for the T-Top. Hopefully this weekend. I love my OB19. Great design. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:44 pm
by wadestep
Thanks Steven! - I've been watchign your console and T-top closely. That top is beautiful, and I can't wait to see it on the boat! Please post in your thread how it was to re-apply the Kiwi-grip. Does it sand easily? how difficult is the prep work? I also love the OB19.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:16 pm
by Steven
I'll put the highlights in my thread, but the low light is that it does not sand easily. Even with a belt sander and 50 grit. :)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 3:53 pm
by wadestep
ugh - I hope not to have to cross that bridge for a long time. That was what I was afraid of.
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:33 am
by majorgator
Just got caught up on your build...excellent work!!!!!!! I can't wait to see her, and you and Robin in Boca next month :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:21 pm
by tech_support
This months issue of Boating Magazine has an article on amateur boat building - Wade's OB19 is one of the three featured boats in the article :D

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:40 pm
by wadestep
That's most excellent! I've got to go get a copy or two..

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:51 pm
by Cracker Larry
Very cool ! 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:27 am
by tech_support
I downloaded it onto wife's i-tunes account, no magazine stores around here and its too late to get the current issue if you buy a subscription :?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:17 am
by tech_support

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:00 pm
by Cracker Larry
They should have had Robin at the helm, would have made a better picture :lol: :lol: Very cool Wade 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:01 pm
by wadestep
Ha - they might have sold more magazines that way! I did really like their artwork, and the article looked good. It's neat to be interviewed for a national magazine. I'd bet that article reaches a lot of people that otherwise haven't thought it possible to build a boat.
I like that they stressed that I had a regular job, and this is within the reach of people who have jobs/ families, etc...
wade

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:47 am
by AtTheBrink
Congratulations on the magazine feature! That is pretty awesome!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:52 am
by crackedconch
Great article Wade, congrats!! I'm still waiting to start mine. Gotta get the house first.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:44 am
by Noles309
Very cool. Congrats 8)

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:59 pm
by wildbill
Congratulation's Guy's!

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 12:49 pm
by Jondavis
wadestep wrote: Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:35 pm Some thoughts/observations after 60-70 hours on the engine:
- the boat is SOLID! After building this boat I have so much confidence in it's abilities that I sometimes wonder how I could have been so confident in production boats with a large, wet bilge, poorly mounted seacocks, insufficient drainage, poor wiring, etc... The quality of all of this is higher on my build, and I don't pretend that I even did an above-average job as compared to others here. This boat will never sink, and the fully-glassed hull will last as long as I care for it to last (20-30+ years).
- the boat is economical! I put in a 60 gallon tank, and guess that I get 5-6 MPG. I can go many days of fishing without refilling the tank. I like this because it sits on a boat lift and carrying gas cans around my yard is something I don't want to do every trip out.
- The boat is light! It is very responsive to the throttle, gets on plane quickly without too much bow rise.
- the boat is stable! it is a very large-feeling 19' boat, and everyone sitting or fishign on one side is no big deal at all.
- the livewell arrangement just behind the motorwell bulkhead is working out great, and that would otherwise be mostly wasted space.
- the boat rides OK. It is 'slappy' when running into a head sea, even only of 1 foot or so. It does not ride like a deep-V boat. Running into waves provides a jolt or slap, more than I was hoping for. However, the beneficial trade-offs include batter MPG, faster with same HP, more stable at rest, faster to plane, more beam=more room, etc...
- the boat is very dry when either putting or running. not much spray gets thrown up and into the boat at all.
- the boat does not turn super sharply on plane. It slides more than I was figuring on. Really not a problem, since I'm not entering slalom races. I put on 2 small 'keels' and I would make them taller somewhat next time to help with sliding. Again, I'm used to deep-V hulls.
I love your boat you did an astounding job on it. I am starting my ob19 now and am scaling up 10% which will bring it to 21x8’ beam. Do you think the slightly larger size will make up for the sole being a tad low? Or do you feel I should raise the sole a tad?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:48 pm
by wadestep
sorry I missed this, not sure what happened to the notifications. Anyway, I'd still raise it a little, in able to then make small wells or a trough or something to allow the boat to be more self-bailing. Overall still very happy, using it probably every other week.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 9:42 pm
by wadestep
Hi all, long time no post! Anyone with experience skinning over foam?
So I've built 3 of these, basically 2ft by 4 ft with 2"of foam and plywood. Great as fishboxes but heavy! Top one's lid is in for repairs. Bottom one is 8years old and combined they've had thousands of pounds of fish in them.
Image

Now I want to make a lightweight small cooler, just big enough for a 6 pack and a sandwich, on the OB19. So I've taken some of the home depot pink foam insulation board and laminated on each side 12oz biax with marinepoxy and filled the weave with peanut butter thickened with wood flour and fairing powder.
Question for anyone: is this a thick enough skin so it wont easily dent and feel solid? No plywood. I could use more glass for the skin, this is all leftover stuff, but is it needed?

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 9:49 pm
by wadestep
A visual, it will be a little bigger than the cooler in the pic

Image

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 11:13 pm
by Fuzz
I built one a little bigger than that and used on layer of 1700 top and bottom. It seems to be enough.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2020 10:22 am
by wadestep
Ok, thanks. Maybe 12oz will be enough. I'll recheck after taping the seams. It's just so easy to glass before cutting into lots of little pieces.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2020 10:01 pm
by Browndog
When I built my cooler I was worried about the same thing and used plywood on the exterior and interior with the foam sandwiched under, between and on top. Yes it made it heavier. I am thinking about building another with scrap materials and am curious about how yours turns out.

I agree it is much easier to laminate a larger flat panel if you have a big enough piece of cloth and then cut everything to size later.

Why not try a destructive test on a small piece of the fiberglass covered foam before you assemble it? Laminate both sides and hit it with something like a hammer or drop something heavy from above and see if it will dent, delaminate or crack.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Good luck with your project.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 5:45 am
by cape man
Delamination is more my concern. Watching with interest. I have lots of scrap, and have this project on the books.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2020 4:52 pm
by wadestep
I cut the pieces today, and with the scrap tested the delamination strength. The glass skin on a 1" wide scrap was not hard to peel back. However, it actually peeled back a small layer of foam with it - so I guess it adhered to the foam well enough. The foam essentially peeled apart, not glass off of the foam. It's temporarily glued right now, need to tape it up on the inside and then grind the outside radius smooth next.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:14 am
by Joe H
Hello Wade,
Nice summery on the OB19.
I'm giving some serious thought about building the OB19 for fishing the great lakes, I love my P19 and will never get rid of her but she's a little tough to do some of the type of fishing I like to do, I need a trolling motor on the bow and something that doesn't act like a sail, (my P19) so i'm thinking the OB19 would be an excellent addition to my fleet! :)

Raising the sole I get, wish I would have done that on my P19, do you think and inch would do it on raising the sole, any other suggestions you could give me would be greatly appreciated!

Joe H

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:42 am
by fallguy1000
wadestep wrote: Mon Aug 10, 2020 4:52 pm I cut the pieces today, and with the scrap tested the delamination strength. The glass skin on a 1" wide scrap was not hard to peel back. However, it actually peeled back a small layer of foam with it - so I guess it adhered to the foam well enough. The foam essentially peeled apart, not glass off of the foam. It's temporarily glued right now, need to tape it up on the inside and then grind the outside radius smooth next.
90 degree peel tests are notoriously disappointing..

The only real way to test foam bonds is coupon pull of testing.

My panels also peeled easier than I had hoped.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2020 3:54 pm
by Joe H
It is 'slappy' when running into a head sea, even only of 1 foot or so. It does not ride like a deep-V boat. Running into waves provides a jolt or slap, more than I was hoping for. However, the beneficial trade-offs include batter MPG, faster with same HP, more stable at rest, faster to plane, more beam=more room, etc...


Knowing what you know now would you have gone with a deeper V boat design?

Joe H

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:05 pm
by wadestep
Hi Joe, sorry for the delayed reply. I used to get email reminders for this thread...
Anyway, I do still think I would raise the sole only about an inch or less in order to create a trough at the back in front of the motor well bulkhead. This would enable complete self bailing with the exception of a little water remaining in the trough. As it is the drains are at the deck level which means that it doesn't drain 100%. Lowering the drains even a very little bit would improve the drainage. It could even be raising the sole a half inch. I don't think this is unique to the OB19.

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2020 1:11 am
by TomW1
Wadestep what size drains and scuppers do you have. The standard 2" or something larger.

Tom

Re: OB19 in SW FL

Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 6:54 pm
by wadestep
Smaller. I have two that are something like 1.25" that go straight aft from motorwell bulkhead to transom and two that are about a 0.5 " straight out the sides right in front of mwbulkhead. It is self bailing, but I keep things plugged up to keep a dry deck unless needed.