Doc_Dyer's V10

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Cracker Larry »

It might be too late, but I usually wrap a ratchet strap around the bow to pull it tight. Clamp a small block of wood on the outside of each gunwale, a foot or so behind the bow, so the strap won't slip, and crank her into a position of submission :wink:
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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ks8
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by ks8 »

I'm not sure, since I don't have those plans, but I think what it means by flush with top of sheer line, is that instead of the curve top of the frame there, the sailing version has a straight top across. Maybe this is because of the way the mast partner will mate to it? Gary built one (gk108). Maybe he will jump in here with some clarification. :)

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

ks8 wrote:I'm not sure, since I don't have those plans, but I think what it means by flush with top of sheer line, is that instead of the curve top of the frame there, the sailing version has a straight top across. Maybe this is because of the way the mast partner will mate to it? Gary built one (gk108). Maybe he will jump in here with some clarification. :)
Yes I know it is to be flush with the sheer, i'm asking about veering from the plans and make front deck curved :wink:

The mast partner will be aft of the bulkhead

Bradley
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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gk108
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by gk108 »

Looking good! Two things about the front deck and frame...That's a small triangle of plywood and it will be difficult to bend too much of a radius in the deck, unless you are planning on strip planking it. The other thing is that the mast may need to be longer to give you the same amount of length below the sail so that you can still bend it on and tighten the luff without running out of room. 8)
CC, D15, V10

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

gk108 wrote: length below the sail so that you can still bend it on and tighten the luff without running out of room. 8)
:doh: :doh: :?: :?: :doh: :?: :doh: :?:
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by gk108 »

Assuming you will be making a mast partner to match the camber of the deck, the mast needs to be lengthened by the amount of the camber. That way, your sail still fits the mast and you have room below the tack to rig a downhaul. If you go for a rotating mast (highly recommended), you'll want to cleat the snotter on the mast. That's also a place where you will probably want a fairlead for the brailing line. It gets crowded right in that part of the mast, something I didn't compensate enough for when changing my rig to leg o mutton, with it's longer luff. The new CF mast will be 3" or 4" longer to correct that.
CC, D15, V10

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

Drawing or picture :doh: :?: :?:

Not a sailor help with terminology :help: :help: :help:

The mast partner is a piece of 3/8" flat plywood from rubrail to rubrail
The mast partner is flush with the sheer.....behind the front bulkhead
The mast center is 3" behind the bulkhead

So unless the sail is past 90 degrees it will not hit the curved bow deck :idea:
:doh: how often is sail forward of 90 degrees....I would think on a downwind run :doh:

Bradley

Edit: I was thinking 1/4" with 4oz glass for foredeck :?:
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by gk108 »

I don't seem to have any good pictures of that part of my boat. :oops:
If you go with the mast partner as drawn, there shouldn't be any trouble. For some reason, I was picturing a nice steam bent arcing partner, similar to what I've seen on certain drift boats. :lol:

You are right, the sail will go past 90° on a downwind run. I'm still getting used to the downwind lift from a rotating mast. I like it, though. 6.1 mph tops and I think I can get a little more. Beats the heck out of hanging a sail out like a parachute and going slow.

Lessee...
Snotter - Line that runs up the mast, through a block or fairlead and down to the bottom end of the sprit. Trims the sail shape for different conditions.

Tack(of sail) - The bottom front corner of the sail.

Downhaul - Pulls the leading edge of the sail taut, otherwise the sail will creep up the mast and have a scalloped leading edge. Usually attached to or run through the tack grommet. Mine runs from the grommet, through an eye on the mast, back through the grommet to a cleat to give a 2:1 pull.

Brailing line - Made fast about midway up one side of the mast, runs to the backside of the sail, through a grommet and back to a fairlead on the other side of the mast and down to a handy place to grab. Pulling the brailing line will douse the sail quickly.
CC, D15, V10

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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

Thanks that helped a lot

I was going to make a steam bent mast partner but decided not to

No need in racing with Ks8

Let's get this done and fishing/sailing/tooling around :lol:

Got outside hull sanded, taped, glassed today.... Worked all day 8)

No pics till Tuesday. When I sync my iPhone :cry:

Having a blast
Bradley
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

wow got a lot done over the holiday weekend 8)

flipped after taping the interior,
sanded outside ezfilet,
taped seams,
glassed 4oz both sides
appiled ezfairing
started sanding faring

Here is the BOAT PORN :wink:

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enjoy
Bradley
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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