FS14 build in Ecuador

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gstanfield
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by gstanfield »

Thanks Fjapa. I didn't realize you were wanting a filler for fairing the boat. Wood will work, but it will be harder to sand, like Jacques said the talc can work, but is not ideal either.

For fairing the microballons will be better, but if there is anyway you can afford to get it I highly recommend the quickfair product sold from the guys here at bateau. It is incredible how easy it is to use. They have shipped all over the world so maybe they know what it takes to ship to your country without much trouble.

George
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...

Current build: FL14 (+10%)

TRC886
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by TRC886 »

fjapa wrote: At this time the FS14 is ready for "tack welding".

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fjapa wrote: I am already using woodflour for the glue but I wasn't sure it works for covering the boat with the fiberglass.
Congratulations to both of you for the babies :!: :D

Have I missed something here :doh: :doh: The FS14 is ready for tack welding, so mix up some glue and tack it together. After the glue dries, remove the stitches and finish gluing.

When you cover the boat with fiberglass, you wet the 'glass out with straight epoxy, you don't mix thickeners with it; not yet :!: That will come later, when you're fairing the hull. You're not quite to that point yet :wink:

BTW: The boat looks good 8)

fjapa
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by fjapa »

Thanks Jacques we have lots of wood shops here so wood flour is available. My only concern about it is the type of wood it comes from because most of them are tropical woods. Do you think it would be any problem using it?
George I will try to get some QuickFair but I have to test it first. Remember that all my materials are not the same materials you have in the US. My resin comes from Colombia and it is a general purpose epoxy resin so I have to test its compatibility with QuickFair.
Thank you TRC. Tack welding is not a problem I've already done it with resin and wood flour. I was wondering if I can get it a little bit thick so it does not slip on the plywood before fiberglass application (it slips down before getting tacky). You said I should not use wood flour for it?

Fabian

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sitandfish
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by sitandfish »

fjapa wrote:Tack welding is not a problem I've already done it with resin and wood flour. I was wondering if I can get it a little bit thick so it does not slip on the plywood before fiberglass application (it slips down before getting tacky). You said I should not use wood flour for it?

Fabian
Use mix of epoxy/wood flour to fill the gaps. A heavy duty zip lock bag (fill then cut the tip) makes this a fast job.
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gstanfield
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by gstanfield »

If you're having trouble with the epoxy slipping through the cracks you can use tape on the back side and remove it after the epoxy hardens a bit.
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...

Current build: FL14 (+10%)

fjapa
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by fjapa »

Thanks... the zip lock bag is a great tip. I used a plastic spoon building the canoe but it is really messy that way.
I am sorry, probably I didn't explain myself right. What I mean is: after the tack welding is finished and all the seams are done with FG tape then I have to apply the FG cloth on the bottom and sides. OK, what happens is my resin is very liquid so specially on the sides which are almost vertical to the floor, it slips down while I wait for it to get tacky and apply the cloth on it.
Should I use wood flour to get it a little bit thick and prevent the slipping?

Fabian

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sitandfish
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by sitandfish »

fjapa wrote:...what happens is my resin is very liquid so specially on the sides which are almost vertical to the floor, it slips down while I wait for it to get tacky and apply the cloth on it.
Should I use wood flour to get it a little bit thick and prevent the slipping?

Fabian
It might be that you are using just a little too much. Use just enough so the wood is not dry.
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I am stealing all this information from this example boat build. Similar to yours. A little bigger.
Http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16831
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fjapa
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by fjapa »

Ohhh I see. That could be the reason. I am not using foam rollers because they are expensive and not good quality (they leave small foam dots when I aplly the resin). I am using disposable brushes I guess should look for some good rollers.
Thank you for the tip.

TRC886
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by TRC886 »

fjapa wrote: Thank you TRC. Tack welding is not a problem I've already done it with resin and wood flour. I was wondering if I can get it a little bit thick so it does not slip on the plywood before fiberglass application (it slips down before getting tacky). You said I should not use wood flour for it?

Fabian
I hesitated before posting because you built that canoe, (which looks great). This means that you have MORE experience than I do :!: I was afraid that I might be insulting you by posting the way I did :help: , and I'm glad that I did not do so 8)

I don't recall that anyone else has had the problem of sagging epoxy like you're having :doh: I do agree with S&F that you're probably trying to put it on too thick. Try getting just a little on your brush and spreading it a loooonnngg way.

trc

Steven
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Re: FS14 build in Ecuador

Post by Steven »

Brush some epoxy on a small length of the seam, then use a small squeegee to spread it along the seam. You'll be surprised how far it will go. The goal here to to give the wood some epoxy to soak up so it doesn't soak it out of your lamination. As you apply the glass, apply the epoxy with the brush and work it down the seem with the squeegee the same way. You want just enough epoxy to wet the glass and make it go clear. The glass will stick very well to a horizontal surface.


Another thing you can do is pre-wet the tape. Lay it out in on a long sheet of plastic on a flat surface . Pour the epoxy on and work it in with the squeegee. Roll up the tape, and then roll it out on the seam. Use the squeegee and a brush to press down the tape. I find this a much easier approach than trying to wet out tape in place. You still have to wet out the wood first.

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