problem...what is going on here?

[AussieBoater]

Any chance the mixing container was contaminated with something? Or the mixing stick? I'm grasping at straws.

I was thinking the same thing as CL... was the contaminant in the mixing container?


As far as the dust and everything else that settles on the surface... we used to spray sterling in a booth and it still seemed to show fine particles. It is so smooth and shiney, EVERYTHING shows. Once you flip the boat, it will be hard to see anything but shine and reflection.

[hooter]

I used a brand new container from the big box store. will try again with another coat today.

hooter

[Cracker Larry]

I'd clean the container before mixing, you never know what might have got on it in the store. Clean the mixing sticks too.

[tobolamr]

And, just in case this hasn't been hit already, double-check that your rags/wipes are truly lint free.

[hooter]

update.

Waited 24 hours. Sanded the hull to get back to primer as I wanted to be sure surface contamination was not an issue.

re preped the surface with lint free rags and H20. allowed to thoroughly dry in a dust free (as little as possible)

new containers that I washed and cleaned.

new stirring stick (cleaned)

mixed 2:1, allowed for induction time, remixed with less thinner so as to prevent "stray reducer". Mixed harder than I have ever mixed before and allowed to rest. Re-mixed harder than I've mixed before. and started to apply. remixed during application to prevent and unmixed components

Same result... birds eyes every few inches.

currently I am unimpressed with sterling topcoat.

Don't really have the money to start buying more of this stuff. My dreams of a yacht finish are turning into a reality of a workboat finish.

will apply more coats and see what happens as it gets thicker but it doesn't seem logical to me.

hOOter

[remedy32]

Don't know if you took a look at the Detco/Sterling application info. Here's a bit more of their take on "fish eye".

ANTI-CRATER SOLUTION FOR "FISH EYES"

STERLING gloss coats are adversely affected by contamination from dirty spray equipment and oil or water droplets in the air line. Surface contamination from silicone compounds, oily and greasy residues and waxes, can produce a similar result. The minute contaminants become mixed with the atomized spray or are coated with it on the surface and form small craters or "fish eyes," ruining the film’s appearance.

Of course, when seen, the best cure for contamination is to clean the equipment, check for dirty line filters, hoses and a defective compressor, if not surface contamination, however the job may be too far along to practically do so. Adding up to one ounce U-3154 Anti-Crater Solution per quart of mixture may promote enough flow to eliminate the craters in the second gloss coat. Equipment should then be thoroughly checked to eliminate the contamination sources. Urethanes are much more susceptible to craters than acrylic enamels and lacquers and require much cleaner equipment in general.

Some alternative sources seen in the field, for fish eyes, include use of household or automotive tack rags containing oily or waxy compounds; use of air sanding equipment in the work area, releasing atomized oil; use of contaminated or industrial-grade wipe-down solvents, incompatible with urethane gloss; inadequate cleaning of paint pot from prior use of incompatible compounds; use of incompatible flow agents and reducers, mistakenly using epoxy reducer with urethane and vice versa; usage of silicone sprays, WD-40, ArmorAll and similar compounds near work area.

I spent 20+ years with Sherwin-Williams selling mostly industrial and marine coatings. Our list of causes was about the same as theirs. This has to be one of the most irritating sort of problems you can run into. BTW.....sometimes the manufacturers are very willing to throw some material your way to help make the problem and bad feelings "go away"; at their end the material is pretty cheap. Hopefully you'll get this resolved quickly and at minimal cast to you.

Bill in CT
FS17

[brianincc]

Make sure your rags weren't washed with fabric softener or dryer sheets. I don't know about the steling but awlgrip has a special prep solvent to help eliminate surface contamination. Most automotive paint stores sell a compatible version for much less money. I don't see how distilled water could possibly remove oil contamination. If wd40 or something similar has been used even close to your boat it could cause contamination issues. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out.

[cape man]

Wow Hooter. Gotta be really frustrating, but hang in and I'm sure it will get resolved. I have no advice, just empathy for where you're at. And THANKS for posting this.

[Larry B]

I'm thinking after all you have done, that it's the wipe down This is from http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/help/ ... ll_tip.htm

Wipe down the area with one rag that is soaked generously (although the rag should be rung-out to remove any excess) and then come back immediately with a clean, dry rag.
It is advisable to use the Sterling C-8765 Wipe Down Solvent, although you can use denatured alcohol.

When I do my sterling I was planning on using the denatured alcohol, I'm thinking water will not clean the surface
Just my Opinion,

[Cracker Larry]

The surface has to be de-greased. Water won't do it.