Mixing colors

[Uncle D]

I would still like to have teal color as my finish coat. Can I mix to get the color?? Half Blue/Half Green? Is there samples so I can try or can the people at Sterling tell me what I need to do. I have not found a way to contact Sterling. Is there a # to call a sales rep?

Thanks, Don

[peter-curacao]

I would still like to have teal color as my finish coat. Can I mix to get the color?? Half Blue/Half Green? Is there samples so I can try or can the people at Sterling tell me what I need to do. I have not found a way to contact Sterling. Is there a # to call a sales rep?

Thanks, Don

I'm not sure I understand, but why not order it from a color chart?

[gstanfield]

Peter, he wants a color that is not on the chart

[peter-curacao]

Peter, he wants a color that is not on the chart

Ahh that explains a lot thanks

Edit: I thought Jay gray looked a bit like it, but that's probably my screen failing me

[peter-curacao]

Can I mix to get the color?? Half Blue/Half Green? Thanks, Don

This is what I found, hope it helps

Teal is a dark blue-green colour with a greyed overtone.
Mix 3 parts blue, 1 1/2 part yellow and 1/2 part black...
Once this is completely incorporated, adjust the colour to match your sample, (as colour is a personal thing I recommend that you start with a colour chip or sample that you recognise as "teal"). You it may need a bit of white to bring it up, or more yellow or blue to bring it closer to your sample.

I think I would start mixing by weight in small batches until right, than convert the weight numbers to a big batch

[tech_support]

I believe they will blend custom colors, but Im sure it will be more expensive.

I do not see why mixing two colors would not work, but I do not know for sure

[ks8]

It worked fine with System Three, but then I once had a job that involved color matching on every job, by eye, so I had a good idea what base and tinting colors to experiment with. The job also required the color to match in both daylight and artificial light, which was a whole 'nother twist.

If the techs give the *good to go* on the ability to blend your own, the next step is to determine (with their help), what colors will be required for the target product, over the primer you use (!). You want a minimum of different pigments involved toward the target color. Then do tests with very small amounts, totaling maybe two or three ounces. Use separate syringes to measure each. THoroughly mix the source paints before syringing off for the experimental blend, and thoroughly mix the test batch, and, very importantly, test the appearance of the color in outdoor light, or at least a good *reveal* light source that imitates daylight, and confirm the final color when dry, over the primer, in daylight. Depending on how picky your eye is, you may find this easier than you at first imagine, but work small in the tests, and document the measurements precisely that you will have to scale up for the big working batch, which still might need slight tweaking (and documenting of that also). When using the final batch, you must mix it often, in case some pigments tend to settle faster than others. And apply many light coats.

When a company presents available color charts, sometimes (ideally), they have found a single pigment to achieve the final color, so that nothing *strange happens if applying too heavy a coat, or in a run. When one mixes one's own color from multiple source colors, there are definitely multiple pigments that may behave differently during the flow out, which is why, if possible, one should minimize the total number of pigments involved. I've found that finding the right *gray* base, and then adding a minimum of tint color to that, minimizes *wierd flow stuff*, but not always. It depends on your source colors and what you are aiming at. For instance, if your main available *red* is far too red, you may need to add some green to kill the red, at least as the brain interprets it, but you now have separate red and green pigment in the mix, having adding another pigment that may flow out differently. Get the source colors as close as possible to avoid having to *cancel* a hue with yet another pigment. Hopefully the techs will have a good knowledge of their product, and steer you towards the ideal source colors, involving a minimum of pigment hues, but then again, they might not know, or you just might get the wrong tech that basically operates a color matching computer. It is ok to ask for a supervisor or developer/formulator if you think you've got the wrong person on the phone.

Don't be intimidated by all that. Yes, it takes the development of some intuition, but I believe a teal type of target won't get too funky on you.

If one looks closely at my *trim color* here, one will see VERY tiny specks of the dark blue used against the grayish green. It is just the nature of how the various pigments have their role in formulating the final color as seen from three feet or more away. You can't see it in this picture, but it is there. I used a white base, and then took advantage of the dark (near black) component within the Shaw Blue to steer toward gray, and then did not need to add much Mercer Green at all. Overall, the final result is low chroma, just a slight tint of a sort of gray, toward blue green. High chroma would be more like an intensely obvious and strong and loud color, as opposed to a slightly tinted *gray*. Those tiny specks of dark blue in my trim color are perfectly acceptable to me, but is an example of how things *blend* in the final application and cure to present a color to the eye and brain. If I had laid that blend on heavy, those dark specks might have done some odd things in the flow on the verticals. The final color is not precisely what I wanted, but perfectly acceptable with a minimum of pigments and potential application complications. In simpler english, do several small tests on *primed* sample pieces, and inspect cured in daylight, documenting everything you do carefully. And apply more light coats, rather than fewer heavy coats.

6761

[dbcrx]

As already mentioned you should be able to mix the colours yourself just fine. If you're using 2 pack paints, obviously mix your colours first and then add the hardener when ready to use. You can also keep your mixed colour base for future touch ups if it's well sealed.

But, I'd check if they can mix a colour for you. Yes, it may cost more to have one matched, but would it cost as much as having to buy 2 or 3 tins of different colours to mix your own?

[Uncle D]

KS, thanks for the input. Great info. I will take to heart the steps you mention if I have to go that route.

And Peter, I'll try that mix ratio if I can't get anything from the paint company. Also I thought the Jay-Gray looked sort of teal too. Just not as "bright" as I'd want.

Does anyone have contact info on Sterling??
EDIT: Found it!!


Thanks, Don

[ks8]

Is the color you are aiming at, something like 8080 at this link?:

http://www.1netcentral.com/color-chart.html

Of course, screen calibration makes this a little difficult to tell *exactly* what you are seeing, but is it close?